Good info, thanks! This is my first year trying this, with 2 taps in 5 trees. Only issue is that I'm in Charlotte, which is typically a Zone 8A, so I'm not certain how much the sap will run here, but it's more of an experiment than anything else. I'm also tapping silver maples, so there is a bit less sugar in the sap. My confusion is when to tap here, as the buds usually come out in mid-January, so I'm trying it now, in December. Wish me luck!
What about plugging the hole after you pull out the spout so that bugs/disease are less easily introduced to the tree? Is this recommended for better tree health?
Plugging of tapholes is not a recommended practice and can impede the healing process and impair tree health. The tree can compartmentalize the wound without interference. Plugging actually increases the possibility of rot problems and delays healing. Trees are well adapted to dealing with wounds.
Hello UVM Maple. I've tapped 4 trees at my home here in Ottawa, Ontario on and off for 20 years. We get about 2 - 4 liters of syrup ... boiling it down in a turkey fryer pot on the drive and finishing it to ~ 220 F on the stove. It's just a fun spring thing and I'm gonna do it this Pandemic year. Question: I'd never want to endanger my trees ... how many taps can I put into a tree? Is there a diameter formula you'd recommend?
If you're using 7/16" spouts, 1 tap for trees 12-18" diameter at breast height (54" above ground) and 2 taps above 18" diameter. If you're using 5/16" spouts, 1 tap from 9"-18" and two above 18". This assumes trees are healthy and growing well.
It is important to not have the internal wounds (compartments) touch. If they do intersect, the wound will not be two times the size of a regular taphole, but considerably larger, since they will merge and create a bigger internal wound. The exact distance well known, but it should be at least several inches to the side and 6-12 inches vertically (up or down). In addition, taphole staining is not perfectly straight up/down since wood grain has a slight twist.
Height is wherever convenient. On buckets, typically waist high, but vary from year-to-year to avoid old taphole stain. With tubing, height is less important, but from lateral line generally to as high as one can comfortably reach, again, avoiding old tapped areas. With good vacuum, droplines can extend downward below the lateral line in order to reach good wood.
As far as plastic vs metal, both are fine, however many producers replace plastic spouts each year to achieve good sanitation. If metal or plastic and reused each year, clean them thoroughly each year, soak in a mild bleach solution for 5-10 min (not longer), then rinse well.
@@UVMProctorMapleResearchCenter I boil my ancient metal spiles every season, and then keep them grouped in specific sealed containers until I use them, being careful not to touch the part that goes into the tree when installing, so as not to infect them with my microbiome to spread to the tree. Am I being overly cautious?
Tapping on the south face was most likely because that side thaws faster when the sun comes out. However tapholes on the south side "dry out" faster than those on the north. Over time, the average sap flow from N and S side are the same.
Tapholes should not be plugged, but rather should be left open for the tree to heal naturally. A plug that is inserted will soak up water and rot, causing more damage than if the wound is left unplugged. The tree will close the wound by growing new wood on the outside within a season or two.
Is there a best time to begin tapping? I know it is recommended that the temperature must drop below freezing and then warm up the next day but if that happens in October, is that too early?
Yes, that is likely far too early. You want to capture the most sap flow periods in the spring, understanding that once tapholes are drilled, they start to degrade due to microbial contamination (termed "taphole drying"). Where are you located?
Tap when daytime temps are forecast to get into at least the upper 30s (deg F) and nights are still below freezing. Sap will run when the trees thaw out, and water will be taken up from the soil during the start of a freeze. Sap will not run when temps remain below freezing and will stop dripping sap after a few days until the tree is recharged by a freeze period.
That is correct. For tapping in our research operation, we always use a tapping hammer. These can be wood, plastic, or metal. It is the weight of the hammer that is important.
@@JesusSaves86AB no, it's something I've learned as I've gotten older. Opinions based on experience are categorically inferior to opinions based on science.
Your instruction on using tubing to set depth is too vague & quick. ??? Your video IS addressing inexperienced would-be tappers. Your narration voices are very good: courteous,
If you are using 5/16" spouts and a 5/16" drill bit, cut a piece of standard 5/16" tubing and slide it over the drill bit, leaving 2" of the bit open. Unfortunately we cannot go into a great deal of depth on topics in order to keep the videos to a reasonable length. Most of the recommendations on the "Keys to High Sap Yield" are for relatively experienced maple producers using vacuum tubing methods.
Great video!!!! I’m in my 3rd year of syrup making and this helps me for next year! Thank you!!!!
Glad you liked it.
The best tool for pulling spouts is a spout puller 👍
Right LOL
and the best tool to remove a tooth is a tooth puller
They make a tool for everything, huh? I think I could find 10 things in my house that are suitable for pulling a shallow tap out of a tree
Excellent video, very informative. Good job!
Good info, thanks! This is my first year trying this, with 2 taps in 5 trees. Only issue is that I'm in Charlotte, which is typically a Zone 8A, so I'm not certain how much the sap will run here, but it's more of an experiment than anything else. I'm also tapping silver maples, so there is a bit less sugar in the sap. My confusion is when to tap here, as the buds usually come out in mid-January, so I'm trying it now, in December. Wish me luck!
What about plugging the hole after you pull out the spout so that bugs/disease are less easily introduced to the tree? Is this recommended for better tree health?
Plugging of tapholes is not a recommended practice and can impede the healing process and impair tree health. The tree can compartmentalize the wound without interference. Plugging actually increases the possibility of rot problems and delays healing. Trees are well adapted to dealing with wounds.
Hello UVM Maple. I've tapped 4 trees at my home here in Ottawa, Ontario on and off for 20 years. We get about 2 - 4 liters of syrup ... boiling it down in a turkey fryer pot on the drive and finishing it to ~ 220 F on the stove. It's just a fun spring thing and I'm gonna do it this Pandemic year. Question: I'd never want to endanger my trees ... how many taps can I put into a tree? Is there a diameter formula you'd recommend?
If you're using 7/16" spouts, 1 tap for trees 12-18" diameter at breast height (54" above ground) and 2 taps above 18" diameter. If you're using 5/16" spouts, 1 tap from 9"-18" and two above 18". This assumes trees are healthy and growing well.
Thank you.
I'm a city boy. This looks interesting
Great video! What's the rationale for tapping as far from the previous year's taphole as possible? Is it not better to go in a circle?
It is important to not have the internal wounds (compartments) touch. If they do intersect, the wound will not be two times the size of a regular taphole, but considerably larger, since they will merge and create a bigger internal wound. The exact distance well known, but it should be at least several inches to the side and 6-12 inches vertically (up or down). In addition, taphole staining is not perfectly straight up/down since wood grain has a slight twist.
❤
Is there a recommended height above the ground? Any thoughts on plastic spiles versus metal?
Height is wherever convenient. On buckets, typically waist high, but vary from year-to-year to avoid old taphole stain. With tubing, height is less important, but from lateral line generally to as high as one can comfortably reach, again, avoiding old tapped areas. With good vacuum, droplines can extend downward below the lateral line in order to reach good wood.
As far as plastic vs metal, both are fine, however many producers replace plastic spouts each year to achieve good sanitation. If metal or plastic and reused each year, clean them thoroughly each year, soak in a mild bleach solution for 5-10 min (not longer), then rinse well.
@@UVMProctorMapleResearchCenter I boil my ancient metal spiles every season, and then keep them grouped in specific sealed containers until I use them, being careful not to touch the part that goes into the tree when installing, so as not to infect them with my microbiome to spread to the tree. Am I being overly cautious?
@@eranorion No, you're not being overly cautious. The cleaner you can keep the spouts before tapping the better.
I'm guessing that tapping on the south facing side of the tree was prefered to reduce mold and pests via optimal sunlight exposure.
Tapping on the south face was most likely because that side thaws faster when the sun comes out. However tapholes on the south side "dry out" faster than those on the north. Over time, the average sap flow from N and S side are the same.
Would you plug the wound to keep out bugs, or leave open it to heal on its own?
Tapholes should not be plugged, but rather should be left open for the tree to heal naturally. A plug that is inserted will soak up water and rot, causing more damage than if the wound is left unplugged. The tree will close the wound by growing new wood on the outside within a season or two.
@@UVMProctorMapleResearchCenter Thank you so much!
Is there a best time to begin tapping?
I know it is recommended that the temperature must drop below freezing and then warm up the next day but if that happens in October, is that too early?
Yes, that is likely far too early. You want to capture the most sap flow periods in the spring, understanding that once tapholes are drilled, they start to degrade due to microbial contamination (termed "taphole drying"). Where are you located?
So for WV, what is the best time of year to tap ?
This is new to me when is the best time to tap?
Tap when daytime temps are forecast to get into at least the upper 30s (deg F) and nights are still below freezing. Sap will run when the trees thaw out, and water will be taken up from the soil during the start of a freeze. Sap will not run when temps remain below freezing and will stop dripping sap after a few days until the tree is recharged by a freeze period.
What size drill bit should I use for a standard steel spike?
It depends upon the spout size. Most metal spouts are either 7/16" (large) or 5/16" (small). A drill bit made for maple tapping is recommended.
where might one get the taps and drills from ?
Any maple equipment supplier. Where are you located?
Canadian Tire
very informative video , but the usage of a hammer is not recommended . wood or plastic mallet is way better .
That is correct. For tapping in our research operation, we always use a tapping hammer. These can be wood, plastic, or metal. It is the weight of the hammer that is important.
How do you identify stained wood?
Catch the drill shavings in your hand, or look at them in the snow. Good conductive wood is white or light-cream color. Stained wood is tan-brown.
@@UVMProctorMapleResearchCenter thanks!
Everyone a expert lol would live to hear some old vermonter comments!
Folk wisdom has no value
@@ThirdLawPair Such ignorance reeks of youth.
If from Vermont makes one a expert ?
@@JesusSaves86AB no, it's something I've learned as I've gotten older. Opinions based on experience are categorically inferior to opinions based on science.
I’m gonna tap everywhere 😅
Your instruction on using tubing to set depth is too vague & quick. ??? Your video IS addressing inexperienced would-be tappers. Your narration voices are very good: courteous,
If you are using 5/16" spouts and a 5/16" drill bit, cut a piece of standard 5/16" tubing and slide it over the drill bit, leaving 2" of the bit open. Unfortunately we cannot go into a great deal of depth on topics in order to keep the videos to a reasonable length. Most of the recommendations on the "Keys to High Sap Yield" are for relatively experienced maple producers using vacuum tubing methods.
God, this is Dummy version of "Tapping a maple tree for Dummies"
Ya gotta start somewhere!?