Cabinet Scraper Honing Guide | Paul Sellers
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- čas přidán 12. 04. 2018
- Getting a crisp 45° bevel on your cabinet scraper can be tricky. Paul shows how to make and use a honing guide that gives you a guaranteed angle every time.
For more information on these topics, see paulsellers.com or woodworkingmasterclasses.com - Krátké a kreslené filmy
Paul
I have struggled with the number 80 for years and could only get dust out of it. I followed the instructions on this video and just smoothed some very gnarled cherry grain without tear out.
I actually made curls.
Thanks so much- I hate sanding.
Frank
I absolutely love my No. 80 cabinet scraper. Would have never used one of it wasn’t for Paul. It is such and essential tool in my arsenal.
Thanks Paul, very helpful. I’m a new woodworker and just bought my first cabinet scraper. I was struggling with the edge until I watched this video. Thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I'm 63 and life long carpenter.I just rewatched how you did the #80 blades-I'd forgotten! You are the finest tradesman I've ever seen.And thats quite a few.
These videos are timeless. Don’t ever stop Paul!
Thank you, Paul, best channel on CZcams, The stuff I have learned from you is fantastic, No matter what I need to know regards helping me be a better woodworker, I just search your videos. Brilliant.
The new studio is looking good, thanks for the videos!!
Thank you. I had my scraper for a year and I knew it was working to its potential, this method solved my issues.
Brilliant. Thanks Paul. Exactly what I’m struggling with at the moment!
I've had one of these tools for a couple years. I couldn't figure out how to sharpen it so it's been collecting dust. I can not wait to try this method. Thank you so much.!
Just purchased a number 80, and came to find the simple way from the man! Paul you never disappoint me! Thanks!
Paul your a MASTER at all them sharpening Tricks Thanks for them Awesome Videos
You make everything look so simple you are the MASTER thanks for this it will make sharpening so much easier.
Holy shit. You just cut down a doard at an angle perfectly... I thought you would switch to a band saw. Just wow.
Super tips as always Paul.Thank you
Excellent video and process.
Thank you for the background and instructions on proper technique. Using the scraper by hand is not an option because of surgery. I found the Stanley #81 at a Habitat-Restore for a few bucks. Thanks to you, the jig for sharpening will make this No. 81 a go to tool for paint removal and finishing without the pain in my thumbs. Bless you for sharing.
Thank you for another great way of sharpening one of are tools of the trade 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Paul, this will help me with the final stages of my guitar plates.
Great as always!
Thanks, Paul!
Wow , that was awesome. You are a true master. Thank you for the lessons.
Jose Ortiz sup cuz
Thanks for posting!
Very nice tips, thank you!
Nice work!
Now that was a great tip !!
Good Timezone Paul.
Very usefull, thanks
thanks, quite useful
Thank you!
thanks! okay I think I finally understand what the added block is doing: otherwise the smaller segment of wedged wood might slide un-level (up or down the blade like a skid) as the vise tightens
This is great.
I love that you seem to alternate between inches and mm. I do the same, but I imagine plenty of people are confused as anything.
Wonderful
SO many things I have to add to my tool box. and now I know why.
Nice Job
I’ve just bought an old no 80, the scraper blade itself is pretty beaten up but it’s original so just got to true it up and then get scraping 😀 those shavings look like they’d be great to get camp fires going too 👍🏻😊
Just bought a Stanley no. 80 on Ebay, hoping it will reduce or eliminate all that sanding... I will try making this honing guide, thank you...
Brilliant
Nice and handy :) Thanks Paul :) ॐ
finaly someone who knows about drawfiling, i preffer to draw while drawfiling tough.
Thanks for the great tips, always a pleasure watching you and learning.
I am looking for a cabinet scraper, and whilst searching I came across a #12. Would you recommend the #12 or #80?
Magnifique
Thanks again for the tip/jig. Does this work for hand-held scraper plates as well?
May I assume the 81 can be sharpened the same way? Also, could you do a video on sharpening the No. 12 cabinet scraper, or is it the same as the 80?
Are you in your new Shop ? Good Job on the Video by they way !
That is by far the lightest tone I've ever seen on mesquite. Very nice. Its so hard that it took serious metal drills to put in mounting bolts on a 7 inch by 12 inches - wild edge - by 7 feet long fireplace mantle. It was so heavy that it took 2 of is to lift it onto a temporary support shelf with legs I'd built to mount it.
By contrast, we same 2 guys lifted up a 8 X 12 inch by 20 feet long solid Doug For porch beam, carried it to feet, up steps, onto 6 foot ladders and tied it in. Not much harder, really.
👍👍👍👍
Hey Paul, off topic but you should check out the performance of the young Arizona lady named Sarah Sellers who placed 2nd at the Boston Marathon today in rain and half a gale. No relation to you perhaps but when I saw her on TV near the end I thought of you
I saw your bench moving when you were sawing. I'm planning to build a Roubo workbench. Do you think that would move as much when sawing?
Thanks for the instructions yet again. Forgive my ignorance but Ican't tell which way the blade edge is facing. Would you kindly enlighten me?
Paul, wonderful presentation!
Would this method work for larger card scrapers? I generally hold mine with my hands; and they’re 4 times the size of your 80.
Thank you,
Sonny
It’s not really necessary for a card scraper because the angle is square and not 45°. Having said that you can cut a saw kerf alongside the piece of wood and clamp it along the vise to guarantee the edge is square after filing.
Paul Sellers thank you for the information Paul.
Hello Paul,
Last week I bought a cabinet scraper on second hand market; it has same design and same dimensions than #80 Stanley , but no mark of manufacturer, only the "N° 180" . Have you ever seen this kind of tool?
Thank you for answer
Michel (from Cognac)
When the scraper lost his edge do you need to grind back the 45° bevel or only burnish it back?
Mesquite cologne!?
thanx for the honing guide
Would this jig work for a regular card scraper?
Paul, would this method work on a 12-½ scraper? I received an antique one as a gift and haven't been able to figure out how to use it properly. It has the original wood sole, but a poor replacement handle that I need to replace with something shaped more like the original one. The blade has a bevel on it and I've been sharpening it like a smoothing plane. Do you also have tips on what angle to set the blade at and what direction the blade sits in an No. 12-½?
Thank you very much,
Aaron
Probably not because the pitch the blade is held at is very different than the 45 degrees.
Veritas jointer / edger... all you need
I have it, it is a pretty nice tool. Makes things pretty easy. Plus it's cheap.
DO MORE Q&A'S PLEASE
DO MORE Q&A'S PLEASE
DO MORE Q&A'S PLEASE
Hi Paul and team,
I noticed Paul didn't work harden/consolidate the flat edge prior to burnishing the 45 degree face. Is there a reason for this? I remember seeing Paul do this on a card scraper sharpening video. Thanks.
I don’t do it every time as it’s not necessary to.
Hi Paul. Can a similar device be made for sharpening scissors? I know you have done a video on sharpening scissors, but I can't seem to get the angle right. Got eye sight problems, so don't know what angle my hands are. Nice set up in your new studio. Cheers, Robbie
woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/sharpening-card-scrapers/
Do you store the cabinet scraper without tension or can you just leave it the way you use it?
Leave it as it is. No need to de-tension.
Any reccomendations on the final angle of the burnisher when rolling the burr? I've been taking mine to just about 90 deg to the body of the blade. It looks like you did not go that far, but to be honest you kinda blew through that part of the process.
Yes I agree
Do you file the edge to a zero grind like a chisel edge? Will this work for normal hand scrapers that aren't use in a holder/body like that?
Yes, you do.
Can I use the same method on a card scraper I will be using by hand (without the cabinet scraper body)?
Brian Christman I have tried yhis method for one of my card scrapers, it didnt work very well for me. I still do the flat grind & burnish with a 6" long snap on 3/8" socket extention it works great for me.
no, there is a different technique for that. There are videos in the master class site for that.
woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/sharpening-card-scrapers/
Thought you were to lose a digit there for a sec. Be careful :o
I'm not seeing why the turn block that is screwed on helps. If it is less than flush of the main body of the guide, what is it doing? It's not under the blade, it's not being pinched by the vise. watching again, that little block prevents the guide from torqueing, twisting, sliding down...ah...Paul says "sliding" down under the vise. it keeps the guide level on both sides of the kerf.
Thanks for this comment as I COULD not for the life of me figure it out either. I came here looking to see what the heck I was doing wrong or doing right but not understanding the concept of the swiveling block.
None the less I used it and followed Paul’s steps on sharpening it with the file, honing guide, and burnished to turn the edge and my scraper blade is shaving great now.
Thanks Paul for this video, and Brian for letting me know I wasn’t the only one stumped by the turning block. I now understand it’s purpose.
@@patsadr8369 if I had to describe it now, I would say "because the kerf is cut at a 45 degree angle, a vise will not squeeze the iron from exact opposite sides; therefore one side of the kerf will dive under the other under vise pressure.
The screwed in block stops that from happening.
Yep I get that too. But in my infinite wisdom I used a piece of cherry and it doesn't have that springiness after I cut the slot.
I'm gonna try with pine on another one just to see if there's a difference.
The 2 halves of the hardwood guide don't move at all
I’m still perplexed how that block of wood screwed onto the board holds the iron. Mine doesn’t, maybe because my saw kerf is too wide for the iron, but I don’t understand how that block does anything more than keep the iron from sliding out the end. It isn’t the block that keeps the kerf tight enough to hold the adjusted iron, but only the vice itself. Am I missing something here?
I was wondering this too. Did you ever figure it out?
I'm certainly no Paul Sellers but if consideration is given to the fact the slot is being cut on a 45° angle there is a chance that as the board is clamped in the vise the open end of the board may shift up the 45° plane. This could cause the scraper blade to shift as well resulting in less than desired results. The little swivel board is to prevent that.
What is the tool at 9:30, burnisher? ?
The burnisher is an extremely hard piece of steel we use to consolidate and burnish the softer steel which is the blade. We use this to turn the edge and you can find more information on this by re-visiting the same video you’ve just seen.
Why does mine scream like two cats tied together? Have I turned the edge too far/not enough? I have all the bolts plenty tight...it’s almost unbearable the sound it makes.
Perhaps you have the blade in the wrong way around?
Paul Sellers that’s what I initially thought but it’s facing the correct way. I also thought maybe the blade was protruding too far from the body. I seat the blade just as you show but still get the screeching sound. Is the sole of the body suppose to be flat or should there be a hollow toward the middle of the throat where the blade come through?
my table saw doesn't cut that straight.
First...