LINKS: Plans, NOW FREE! drive.google.com/drive/folder... Contents of Parts Kit: docs.google.com/presentation/... Wimshurst related products: markq6zlmc.fws.store/Wimshurs...
The changes that you made look great Mark, I hope you sell a good amount of plans and hardware kits. It is definitely a interesting project. Hope you are doing well.
Awesome, thank you! This is great to hear. The cover image drawing has all the components down to every screw and washer. It was a lot of work but to me this was the easy part. Blowing the drawing apart, adding all the dimensions and instructions was the hard part. Be sure and let me know if you need clarification or see an error. winkysworkshop@GMX.com
Well, that is a very nice machine! love the way the drive belt works without the cross friction. watched all episodes in one go. very very interesting. 👍
Well done I watched all the episodes never thought it worked like that always thought it had to be earth ground and an aerial also thought the collectors had to have projection teeth. These are real clear videos boy that rascal got you twice, that one time was a doozie Thanks for sharing all the best to you and yours from John in Texas
I think a lot of older machines has collector combs but a single point works just as well. Yes I've been bit several times and I never get used to it! HA
I love your design, simple yet elegant. Definitely a masterpiece. Also, in your kit, you did most of the hard work, especially for those of us who do not have a machine shop. I do have one improvement to the electrode, electrode handle, and the top of the electrode support columns. Try moving the electrode friction connector from the electrode to the top of the electrode support column. Then mount the electrode handle to the steel shaft on one side of the friction connector and the electrode to the other side of the friction connector. You may need to grind a flat on both ends of the steel shaft for securing the electrode and electrode handle. Mount the electrode on the side of the generator where the capacitors are and mount the handle on the far side of the machine. Then make sure the crank is also on the far side of the generator. This way the human operating the crank is far away from both the electrodes and the capacitors and still can manipulate the electrodes remotely.
Great video Friend! that's a really neat project yeah the crows really don't like hawks or Eagles around in there area they try to get rid of them :) Thank you for sharing with us!💖👍😎JP
Your welcome... Yeah, I was making the video and heard the crows. I figured the camera mic was picking them up so I decided to go see. Apparently it wasn't but it was certainly disrupting my concentration.
We have the same in the UK. The Buzzards are slow and cumbersome and the Crows mob them with an aerobatics display. Sometimes I see Jackdaws do the same to the Crows. Little man syndrome do you think ? A bit like my Jack Russell the bigger the Labrador the more he wants to take them on.
Thanks so much for this, just came across - so enjoyed and glad you didn't edit out your zaps ;0) - As a teacher these are so much better than a vandergraph as the kids have a clear view and can wonder at static electricity. As you were building I so appreciated your method and explanation, although as much as I would like to build one, as you did, all the equipment and time are beyond me. My Fav bit was when you were talking about the tear shaped metal stickers, discussing options and then you pull out the jig :0) ROFL. I think the transport costs to Australia might be prohibitive. I don't know how many hours this took you? But thank-you for your time taken. Looks Fantastic!!!
Thanks for the great comment John! I've build many of these machines. 15 total I think. I've sold every one of them. 6 or 7 here in the USA, one to a guy in Australia and another to someone in the UK. Currently one is also in California on loan to be used in a science documentary. The cost of materials add up quickly. Acrylic, the Delrin hubs and brass are very high. The average selling price has been between $600 to $700 but shipping to AU and and the UK was high... about 280 to 300. The wood part is easy and I have used the current design for the last 6 machines but the rest is a bit more tricky and time consuming to build. After all this time and effort I've decided it's hard to get rich at $3 or $4 per hour which is about what I make when it's all said and done. I'm working on a machine right now that has the same basic wood structure although with turned disk support columns but it will have a lot of new and time consuming upgrades. when its all finished I'll have all the metal nickel plated. Brass gets dull quickly. I might keep it or sell it for a million... Ha. I just decided to build for fun and forget about money and logic. More of an artistic endeavored you might say.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for your reply and I think the kit on your site is very reasonable and love your passion in refining and the enjoyment is certainly seen as your driving force rather than $$ (though some back would be nice :0) - This is one of those youtube vids worth coming across where skill, passion and opportunity to pass on understanding is clearly seen. Thanks - maybe when I retire (long way away) and join some men's shed group for access to equipment, I might give it a go and make it out of some Aussie Ironbark - LOL
@@johnarmstrongahcc Thanks for the encouraging words. The ironbark wood sounds interesting although maybe a little hard to work with? Different wood types are always interesting. I just googled it... looks like a variety of Eucalyptus. My favorite wood in the US is white oak. It's fairly easy to work with and darkens with ammonia. Three days in a chamber with a little ammonia in a can and the oak is chocolate brown. A coat of wax or oil and you are done. It's also deep in the wood so you can sand the wood after fuming with no negative effect. Most people have no idea about the ammonia process.
It was covered to a degree in part 3 but I should have gone into more detail. Basically any plastic cup will work but a tall tube shape is better. The distance between the outer foil and the center electrode at the top needs to be at least half the distance of your expected spark. Otherwise the spark will jump at the capacitor when you try to get a long spark. Thinner plastic makes more capacitance but aim for more than .050" think or you have a blow out (see link). BB's for the center conductor is easiest but you can use foil. I've also seen people use steel wool. czcams.com/video/3kMQJk8HZZg/video.html
The balls are copper coated BBs and the outside is copper tape. Both the BBs and the outer tape could be any conductor. Tin foil would work great. The copper tape is easy and looks cool and the BBs are easier than trying to line the inside with foil. I've rolled up shim stock and let it expand inside and I've seem people use steel wool.
The original Wilmshurst machines made in the 1880's and beyond were all glass disk but plastic works much better. When glass is used it needs to be borosilicate glass. All other glass absorbs water. Hard to believe but glass does absorb water.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for the reply. I didn't know glass absorbs water. I was researching a lot of materials for the disc, and they all absorb water. However, the dielectric constant for glass is higher than acrylic. In fact paper is even slightly higher than acrylic.
@@WTF_BBQ Interesting... and yes, acrylic also absorbs a little water. The dielectric strength rating is for dry materials. Glass absorbs more water. Google Wimshurst images and you will notice all the old machines have yellow disks and capacitors. This is because all glass was coated with shellac to make them less conductive. Apparently wet glass has less dielectric strength than shellac even though the shellac is only about 400 ad glass is rated at 900.
@@WinkysWorkshop I'm glad you told me about the Shellac. I was debating about coating the discs with something similar. Water glass has a dielectric constant 4 times higher than glass.
@@WTF_BBQ - I have a old machine... I'm guessing 1930 maybe. It has 12 inch glass disks. They were coated with shellac I believe. I stripped it off when I rebuilt the machine and coated it with polyurethane. I was thinking it would have enough umber color to look old but it basically looks like frosted glass. Still, it makes a 4.5" inch spark which is good for a 12 inch machine.
Thanks, it is very cheap actually. It seems a little high until you start adding up costs. I've expanded the kit now to where all you have to buy is the disk material, wood and then make some kind of crank. In reality I make about $10 to $15 per kit. From a profit standpoint it's not worth my time but it is nice when I hear back from somebody that makes the machine. I'm also retired and happy if I cover my costs.
The ones on my machine are no longer made they water bottles made by rubbermaid. Plastic works well but you can use glass if it is Borosilicate. Mot types of plastic drinking glasses will work.
Thank you for sharing your plans for free! God bless you! Please contact me so I can return a favour. I can send you my plans for building a 2,2 KW HHO machine that runs off mains power. Good for having hydrogen oxygen gas on demand for a hot flame to weld , melt and braize with…
The changes that you made look great Mark, I hope you sell a good amount of plans and hardware kits. It is definitely a interesting project. Hope you are doing well.
Thanks Andy, I hope I sell enough to pay for my inventory but I never expected to get rich. Mostly just sharing. I'm doing great, thanks!
Absolutely fantastic Mark, what a wonderful machine, I hope it goes really well for you
Thanks Ralfy
Bought the plans. Wow, extremely well done. excellent details, photos, dimensions, embedded links, etc. Well worth it!
Awesome, thank you! This is great to hear. The cover image drawing has all the components down to every screw and washer. It was a lot of work but to me this was the easy part. Blowing the drawing apart, adding all the dimensions and instructions was the hard part. Be sure and let me know if you need clarification or see an error. winkysworkshop@GMX.com
Fascinating machine. You know I could just watch a whole video of you spinning it and talking about it. It is just so interesting!
Thank you sir. These machines are somewhat addictive.
Nice job on the plans and kits and templates. I enjoyed watching this series.
Thanks a bunch!
Very cool project, thanks for sharing! Always enjoy watching your videos sir.
Awesome, thank you!
Great to meet you on ARW Mark. You do some interesting stuff. Take care, Randy
Same here, I'll check out your channel. The camera on my computer died so I didn't get a chance to say goodbye. I think the battery was low... I hope.
Well, that is a very nice machine! love the way the drive belt works without the cross friction. watched all episodes in one go. very very interesting. 👍
Thanks 👍 I agree, the drive belt is great. Crossed belt wear a lot and get debris all over the disks.
Amazing work man, well done!
Thanks a lot!
Well done I watched all the episodes never thought it worked like that always thought it had to be earth ground and an aerial also thought the collectors had to have projection teeth. These are real clear videos boy that rascal got you twice, that one time was a doozie Thanks for sharing all the best to you and yours from John in Texas
I think a lot of older machines has collector combs but a single point works just as well. Yes I've been bit several times and I never get used to it! HA
Make a Jacob's ladder for it. Spectacular!
I may have to try this!
We had this one at school - was fun to get shock :)
I agree!
What a fantastic job! You could make a coffee table book just from those plans. I'll be ordering.
Thanks Reid. And thanks for all your support.
I love your design, simple yet elegant. Definitely a masterpiece. Also, in your kit, you did most of the hard work, especially for those of us who do not have a machine shop. I do have one improvement to the electrode, electrode handle, and the top of the electrode support columns. Try moving the electrode friction connector from the electrode to the top of the electrode support column. Then mount the electrode handle to the steel shaft on one side of the friction connector and the electrode to the other side of the friction connector. You may need to grind a flat on both ends of the steel shaft for securing the electrode and electrode handle. Mount the electrode on the side of the generator where the capacitors are and mount the handle on the far side of the machine. Then make sure the crank is also on the far side of the generator. This way the human operating the crank is far away from both the electrodes and the capacitors and still can manipulate the electrodes remotely.
Got the email, excellent idea! Thanks
Great video Friend! that's a really neat project yeah the crows really don't like hawks or Eagles around in there area they try to get rid of them :) Thank you for sharing with us!💖👍😎JP
Your welcome... Yeah, I was making the video and heard the crows. I figured the camera mic was picking them up so I decided to go see. Apparently it wasn't but it was certainly disrupting my concentration.
@@WinkysWorkshop 😎
We have the same in the UK.
The Buzzards are slow and cumbersome and the Crows mob them with an aerobatics display.
Sometimes I see Jackdaws do the same to the Crows.
Little man syndrome do you think ?
A bit like my Jack Russell the bigger the Labrador the more he wants to take them on.
@@stevewilliams2498 - Ha... little dogs think they are tough buts they are all for show. they usually just make a lot of noise.
Muito obrigado por compartilhar o projeto, eu pretendo adaptar esse modelo para gerar energia livre e ter eletricidade em casa 24h por dia.
Good luck
Very nice looking set of plans Winky. I hope you have great success with them.
Thanks, I hope so too. I'll be happy to break even and maybe hear from a few that have build one for themselves.
Thanks so much for this, just came across - so enjoyed and glad you didn't edit out your zaps ;0) - As a teacher these are so much better than a vandergraph as the kids have a clear view and can wonder at static electricity. As you were building I so appreciated your method and explanation, although as much as I would like to build one, as you did, all the equipment and time are beyond me. My Fav bit was when you were talking about the tear shaped metal stickers, discussing options and then you pull out the jig :0) ROFL. I think the transport costs to Australia might be prohibitive. I don't know how many hours this took you? But thank-you for your time taken. Looks Fantastic!!!
Thanks for the great comment John! I've build many of these machines. 15 total I think. I've sold every one of them. 6 or 7 here in the USA, one to a guy in Australia and another to someone in the UK. Currently one is also in California on loan to be used in a science documentary. The cost of materials add up quickly. Acrylic, the Delrin hubs and brass are very high. The average selling price has been between $600 to $700 but shipping to AU and and the UK was high... about 280 to 300. The wood part is easy and I have used the current design for the last 6 machines but the rest is a bit more tricky and time consuming to build. After all this time and effort I've decided it's hard to get rich at $3 or $4 per hour which is about what I make when it's all said and done. I'm working on a machine right now that has the same basic wood structure although with turned disk support columns but it will have a lot of new and time consuming upgrades. when its all finished I'll have all the metal nickel plated. Brass gets dull quickly. I might keep it or sell it for a million... Ha. I just decided to build for fun and forget about money and logic. More of an artistic endeavored you might say.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for your reply and I think the kit on your site is very reasonable and love your passion in refining and the enjoyment is certainly seen as your driving force rather than $$ (though some back would be nice :0) - This is one of those youtube vids worth coming across where skill, passion and opportunity to pass on understanding is clearly seen. Thanks - maybe when I retire (long way away) and join some men's shed group for access to equipment, I might give it a go and make it out of some Aussie Ironbark - LOL
@@johnarmstrongahcc Thanks for the encouraging words. The ironbark wood sounds interesting although maybe a little hard to work with? Different wood types are always interesting. I just googled it... looks like a variety of Eucalyptus. My favorite wood in the US is white oak. It's fairly easy to work with and darkens with ammonia. Three days in a chamber with a little ammonia in a can and the oak is chocolate brown. A coat of wax or oil and you are done. It's also deep in the wood so you can sand the wood after fuming with no negative effect. Most people have no idea about the ammonia process.
2:46 More good tv ⚡️ 😂
Heck yeah! And this is why the final version had longer handles!
Color me sadistic but
I laffed at that shock bite
Hope all is well
Well... it was funny
Is there a video on how you made the lieden jar capacitors?
It was covered to a degree in part 3 but I should have gone into more detail. Basically any plastic cup will work but a tall tube shape is better. The distance between the outer foil and the center electrode at the top needs to be at least half the distance of your expected spark. Otherwise the spark will jump at the capacitor when you try to get a long spark. Thinner plastic makes more capacitance but aim for more than .050" think or you have a blow out (see link). BB's for the center conductor is easiest but you can use foil. I've also seen people use steel wool. czcams.com/video/3kMQJk8HZZg/video.html
👍 Could you add a Jacob's ladder?
Possibly... I've been meaning to try this.
Does the Leyden jar contain 3mm brass balls?
Is the copper strip inside or outside the Leyden jar?
The balls are copper coated BBs and the outside is copper tape. Both the BBs and the outer tape could be any conductor. Tin foil would work great. The copper tape is easy and looks cool and the BBs are easier than trying to line the inside with foil. I've rolled up shim stock and let it expand inside and I've seem people use steel wool.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks for the information, I really appreciate your effort in uploading this type of content.
@@WinkysWorkshop I have a question, can the Leyden jar be glass or plastic?
@@davidmaquera8679 Either one will work but plastic is better. If you use glass it needs to be Borosilicate (pyrex).
@@WinkysWorkshop
I understand, thanks for that detail. Can the contents of Leyden flasks be 2 mm copper balls of 5000 units?
is that like the corona from a high voltage leak in the old TV sets,, you could actually smell that stuff.
High voltage is interesting stuff although these machine are a bit safer that the TVs (I think)
Cuanto cuestan todas las partes en pesos mexicanos para armar el winsurf
Sorry, I only ship to the US
Cuanto cuesta el quit en pesos mexicanos para armar el winsurf
Sorry... I only shop to the US
Buenas! las varillas de que material es?
Brass, but any metal is fine. Brass looks nice and it is east to work with.
What material is your disc made of ?? Is it glass or Acrylic ?
The original Wilmshurst machines made in the 1880's and beyond were all glass disk but plastic works much better. When glass is used it needs to be borosilicate glass. All other glass absorbs water. Hard to believe but glass does absorb water.
@@WinkysWorkshop
Thanks for the reply. I didn't know glass absorbs water. I was researching a lot of materials for the disc, and they all absorb water. However, the dielectric constant for glass is higher than acrylic. In fact paper is even slightly higher than acrylic.
@@WTF_BBQ Interesting... and yes, acrylic also absorbs a little water. The dielectric strength rating is for dry materials. Glass absorbs more water. Google Wimshurst images and you will notice all the old machines have yellow disks and capacitors. This is because all glass was coated with shellac to make them less conductive. Apparently wet glass has less dielectric strength than shellac even though the shellac is only about 400 ad glass is rated at 900.
@@WinkysWorkshop
I'm glad you told me about the Shellac. I was debating about coating the discs with something similar. Water glass has a dielectric constant 4 times higher than glass.
@@WTF_BBQ - I have a old machine... I'm guessing 1930 maybe. It has 12 inch glass disks. They were coated with shellac I believe. I stripped it off when I rebuilt the machine and coated it with polyurethane. I was thinking it would have enough umber color to look old but it basically looks like frosted glass. Still, it makes a 4.5" inch spark which is good for a 12 inch machine.
How much would it cost to have a complete machine made
I've sold 14 machines in the past. They all sold for 800-1000. Right now time is a major problem. I just can't seem to find it! ha
I honestly don’t think the price of your parts kit is all that bad considering it wasn’t all outsourced to China. That looks like a fair price to me.
Thanks, it is very cheap actually. It seems a little high until you start adding up costs. I've expanded the kit now to where all you have to buy is the disk material, wood and then make some kind of crank. In reality I make about $10 to $15 per kit. From a profit standpoint it's not worth my time but it is nice when I hear back from somebody that makes the machine. I'm also retired and happy if I cover my costs.
This takes brass balls! Lol
Yep... ha
Where did you get the plastic glasses for the capacitors I can't seem to find them anywhere? And can you use glass instead of plastic? Thanks
The ones on my machine are no longer made they water bottles made by rubbermaid. Plastic works well but you can use glass if it is Borosilicate. Mot types of plastic drinking glasses will work.
Have you tested this machine at different heights? 👏🙏
You mean elevation or altitude?
@@WinkysWorkshop, yes
@@nic014s Never. Not sure it makes a differences, never thought about it
Thank you for sharing your plans for free! God bless you! Please contact me so I can return a favour. I can send you my plans for building a 2,2 KW HHO machine that runs off mains power. Good for having hydrogen oxygen gas on demand for a hot flame to weld , melt and braize with…
Interest! winkysworkshop at GMX dot etc.
I noticed you are a bit more stand offish now you have been zapped !
I think i would want to crank that machine over from a long way aways !
I don't like getting shocked but I've only been shocked really bad one time. this was by a machine with a motor on it.