My Catamaran Gets Chainplates!
Vložit
- čas přidán 16. 05. 2024
- Now't but good ol' fashion boat work. im installing my intermediate shroud chainplates in this weeks episode!
My Instagram: @boat.fella
Facebook: / wildlingssai. .
Business Enquiries: thewildlingsofficial@gmail.com
Thank you SO much to the incredibly generous people who use the links below
PayPal: www.paypal.me/wildlingssailing
Ko-fi: www.ko-fi.com/wildlingssailing
Patreon: / wildlingsailing
Amazon Wishlist: www.amazon.nl/hz/wishlist/ls/...
The music I'm actually listening to: open.spotify.com/playlist/22s... - Jak na to + styl
⛵️Watching again in the car, but remembered my ear phones this time!!!!....Daren't have the sound up, otherwise your Dad will watch you rather than the road!!!!🫣...Honestly Sparks, you really are becoming a true craftsman!....As always, couldn't be prouder & also,,,love, love, LOVE your thumb nail!!!....Granny now knows what that is & agrees!!!!....11 more sleeps - whoop!...🌿⛵️Loads of Love Mum⛵️🌿
haha. yeah, don't put the sound up. I know what Dad's like
@@WildlingSailing ...Exactly 😂🫣🫣😂😂
😂
Great work,loving the videos,yup agree with mum lol,GBY.
Omg, how embarrassing having your mum comment.
Just kidding mum, you've raised a wonderful young man.
To stop messy breakthroughs place a sacrificial piece of wood underneath the piece you want to look nice and clamp them together, then drill and you should see a nice clean hole.
I'll second that. A backer scrap of wood will prevent break-out (might not need to clamp). Great background music!!!!
This
You also can take 2 of the planks you want to use, put the "nice" sites inwards and clamp them together. Then drill through both planks and the unclean break out is on the side you don´t want to see.
Exactly
as well as a bit specifically for wood , not an all purpose bit , and the sacrificial piece of wood and clamped as the gentleman stated , remember just because a bit says it can be used on a matterial doesnt mean it is designed to do the best job on that material, and get that impact driver , you wont regret it
As a cabinet maker I drill through onto a sacrificial piece of wood. This avoids break through. Keep up the good work you are doing great.
To keep the drill bits sharper longer, put some machine oil on the bit where you are drilling through metal, and drill stainless slowly, it will help keep the bit from getting too hot.
It would be ideal to put a flat washer under both the head and the nut end of the bolts. Spreading out the pressure won't collapse the wood under the head. 👍
Good advice
The 1st 5 mins of this video were probably the most relaxing 5 mins of any video on YT.
....Wasn't it Artistic Pete!....
Came here here to say the same thing, showcase of excellent editing and building skills
Mark - consider using bolts that are not threaded for their entire length. Just threaded where the nuts fasten. Under load, the thread tends to work / cut into the structure and the holes elongate. Apologies everyone if this is old territory.
Also the threads are technically weaker than the unthreaded shoulder on the bolt.
Good points.
Honestly, I thought rivets are to be used in this situation?
On my class of boat, it has a balsa core deck so it's common to over-drill the holes, back them with tape, fill them with glass impregnated epoxy, wait to cure, then drill to the proper size in order to mount fittings and prevent the spread of water into the wood core. It works well and I recommend that instead of just using a cotton swab around the edges.
Yes, this...
I think over drilling and epoxy is the Gold standard, but it's also a lot more work. And with a boat in the water and still lots to do I would be doing this with a cotton bud.
Yep, I was baffled he didn't do that given the rot history he has encountered with through bolts/windows/etc. It's basic school. I'd used a 3 x 1/3 formula based on bold diameter, ie that the big hole to be epoxied is 3 times larger than the bolt diameter.
@@m1kalD Unless you oversize drill, the same thing will happen again & again with cotton swab technique ...and doing it 2 or 3 times to feel comfortable with results is false hope and definitely longer than doing it properly one time. I would only assemble it all with oversized holes, filled with epoxy and then drill for final bolt placements ....will be done in one try and know it will not rot out in my lifetime !!!
@muskyful I don't disagree with you. If it was a new build or other wise in great condition but this boat has lots of secrets hidden away from sitting out in the weather for so long.....
Wasps are one of the best architects on the planet
Some of the shit the create is awsome
My Friday Night Fix. A Cold Beer & A Wildling Sailing Episode Ive Been Watching For Years 👍
Remember to put washers on the wooden backer plate to prevent bolt heads from sinking into the wood. You are making great progress.
Mark took care to explain that he didn't have the large washers he needs, and will be buying them.
That glue you're using must be really good because it's got me glued to this channel lol...
Haha can’t beat a good bad joke
That's Mrs Wasp to you!
The only gender reveal that was ever wanted 🖤💛🖤💛🖤💛🖤💗
Speaking as an older man, you will regret using the palm of your hand as a hammer. Right tool right job. I used to do that exact thing and my hands ache all the time now.
Hey bud, to avoid tearing out the wood around the drilling area, all you have to do is place a piece of sacrificial wood underneath. In this way the hole remains tear-free.
you are great at editing videos, selecting music and shots, and all this is an addition to great content. Not to mention the great job you do.
When I put a bolt and washer (or just a bolt) of stainless steel, I slightly countersink the holes and I pot an o-ring over the shank bolt--and grease it all with a little lanoline before tightening. NOTHING gets past that--neither salt water or fresh. If I am using washers, I countersink both sides. Do not use TOO thick an o-ring, it only needs to be enough to form a FIRM seal. No more rot under deck stanchions , ring bolts or chain plates.
I make up my own square stainless steel washers if I can not buy any--I always use square ones on deck on vertical surfaces over wood. I put a corner uppermost--it sheds water and dust and covers a greater area, better spreading the compression load.
The O-ring trick also works on wood--as long as it has been epoxy-saturated and is absolutely impervious to water at the surface. Countersink the edges to a 45 degree chamfer, only needs to ne a couple of millimetres--and use a 3 or 4 mm thick o-ring well greased with lanoline.
Do you know of any books or places to find more tips like this? Thanks going to use this!
To avoid wood chipping, I usually drill from both sides. Start with a small pilot hole.
"SikaFlex the Shit out of it!" I want that on a t-shirt! You're doing a great work, getting the job done and it's very enjoyable viewing.
It's already available on sailing yaba. Another awesome wooden boat design
That would be a great shirt! But remember, with caulking more isn't always better. Believe me, I'm a legit caulking master.
Dont forget that measuring the angle on the slanting rooftop it becomes a compound angle. You may get to small of an angle compared to blueprints.
ohhh yeah. that makes sense
What do you think about overdrilling the holes, then filling them completely with epoxy and then drill a new hole just through the epoxy?
Also, to prevent rip out on the other side while drilling: just place a scrap piece of wood underneath and clamp it down, that should prevent rip out...(works also with a circular saw...)
I really like the mellow music and work sounds in this video.
While you haven't installed the mast just yet read up on lightning protection. From the top of the mast all the way down to the lowest point of the 2 hulls.
It might also be useful to pre-wire the mast for lights, radio antenna and maybe a forward looking mini camera.
Dan’s the man!
Letting the saw do the work your certainly learning I have watched you from the begining and I used to worry about your lack of skills but now I can see how much you have improved .I am confident I will see you sail around the world and I wont be worrying about your ability to face the problems you may face on your travels.
The best way I’ve found to seal holes is to first drill them oversize, then fill them with epoxy and then redrill the hole in the epoxy. It’s the only way You can make sure you have no water ingress.
RE WASPS:: It might sound funny, but you can hang a stuffed brown paper bag under an eave or somewhere wasps like to build nests, they will think the area occupied and wont stick around.
Never heard about this before but it would make sense. Interesting!
Nice video... Your kindness to the wasp is understable... Sentinent being all deserve to live. ☮️
19:11 yeah classic wasps nest starting there. Make sure it's not moved construction somewhere else. They can build a little nest really quick, about the size of a golf ball.
It’s nice to see how much care and patience,you’re putting into your work now.😊
maybe using a little bit of painters tape on the other side might help with the fibers breaking
Hello,
Bravo. Good work. Yes that’s true, better using bolt not completely threaded entire length. But that’s also so difficult to find them… you progress well. Bravo. So much work to do, with bad weather. Bravo, bravo… Croix du Sud , Patrick and Sylvie
I would have bolted the chain plates from the outside in and used some large washers to spread the load and prevent the compression so deep into those backing boards.
If your getting wood ripping out the other side when you drill bud,. What I tend to do is use a smaller drillbit first, all the way through. Then you can use the correct sized drillbit on one side halfway through and then just flip the wood and go all the way through, so no tear out.
A lone Yellow Jacket starting a nest is a Queen. You can't let it go on or before to long You will be driven out.
Wasps are generally peaceful. The reason people get stung is they freak out and flail around. That said, there are some species that will go on the attack when you get near the nest. We have a pond here that wasps frequent to get a drink, when they are away from the nest you can pick them up no problem and they are chill.
Before putting your chain plates on counter sink slightly on the outside . This creates a reces to form a kind of O ring around the bolt . Little trick of a former boat builder .
For nice holes, get yourself a set of Brad Point Bits. They have a "blade" that cuts along the outer edge of the hole that will nicely cut a hole. Always drill a small pilot hole as well. If all you have are standard bits, drill a small pilot hole and then with the proper size start on one side of the wood and then finish the other side but try not to push all the way thru. Another method is to drill into sacrificial wood directly under the workpiece. Clamp both together for a seamess transfer betweens pieces of wood.
Brad point bits are the bomb tho.. and always use sacrifical wood under when possible.
to stop the problem with the holes put another sacrificial timber underneath your backing timber plate and drill down through both pieces
For the rip out when drilling, putting a piece of scrap wood behind/under the piece you are drilling can help with that.
Been watching since long before Minke and I'm a dual citizen between Canada and America and a permanent resident of the Philippines. I grew up in Minnesota on a farm and spent the spent the majority of adult life in Dallas area. Life long dream is to have a liveaboard to spend part of the year on. I watch a Vlogger from Dallas area who has a farm he grew up on and is a permanent resident of the Philippines and he is also a subscriber to your channel because he's also a multiple boat owner and a fan of boat building channels. Another example of small world.
Nice moon shot
Easy tip to stop the wood splintering the back of a drill hole is to place a couple of strips of the blue masking tape over where the hole will come through. A sacrificial piece of wood under the hole drilled wood will make it firmer still.
I'm sure you must be feeling a bit of excitement now. You are close to setting up the rigging.
Can't wait to see that go up.
Mark, a few thoughts: as a number of people have already said use a sacrificial piece of wood behind when you’re drilling and you will not get burst through. when preparing through holes, it’s usually better to drill them oversized by about 50%, then completely fill them with thicken, epoxy, and when set, drill them out to the correct diameter. This gives you a wall thickness of epoxy that does a much better job of preventing seepage into the wood that you drilled through. I also agree with the remark that you should use bolts that are only threaded on these last section and our large a smooth diameter to prevent in the holes as they work. also, epoxy does not need a great deal of pressure and full squeeze out. If you’re using it thicken, then the whole purposes to create a fibre reinforced bond between surfaces that may vary and not be perfectly made less epoxy with full squeeze out will certainly mean that some areas have squeezed all the epoxy out from between both faces so only moderate pressure should be used in my experience. This is a good thing because it’s a lot easier to do.
Have you heard of drill-fill-drill? To seal the sides of holes, drill oversize, fill the entire hole with thickened epoxy, then redrill at the size you need. That not only waterproofs it, but gives you a strong, hard layer next to the bolt.
Remember how much water damage you had around screw and bolt holes, and make sure all the new ones are better protected!
You're making great progress. I'm really looking forward to seeing the mast go up.
Shear is your worst problem in wood. My 25' Evelyn had a bad problem with the bolts shearing the wood in the bulkhead. I had to extend the backing stainless steel plates down and add more bolts. Make sure the bolts clamp down hard and compress the wood. Otherwise the bolts will shear and elongate the bolt holes in the wood. You need more bolts and more clamping area.
Love your show and I am sorry that I am too old to tackle a project like that myself! That's a mommy wasp and please don't knock things into holes with the flat of your hand! Easy way to lose use of a hand for a week or two while a tendon or bone heals...
Sacrificial wood will stop the drill bits from busting through cause chips.
Drill-Fill-Drill Once you get all of the holes lined up Drill over sized through the cabin top and backing plates. Then Fill completely with thickened epoxy then drill original size hole.
I think you might consider watching sail life on CZcams. The guy on there oversized drilled all his through holes and filled them with thickened epoxy. Then he redrilled them to the correct size so he didn't have to worry about water getting into the wood or insulation. Just a thought, but I am no boat builder. Love watching your channel.
Great update. 2x👍 Put a spare bit of wood behind t he hole your drilling and drill trough the chain plate backer into the scrap wood should stop break out.
To stop drill spitting wood out put another piece of wood on the back to stop it, when sawing put your index finger out straight to guide the saw, when routing timber (the rounds edges youwere doing) do the two long sides before the ends it will stop corners breaking out. Mark you are a joy to watch what your doing some people would never takle.
To prevent (most) blow out, place the work on a scrap backing plate and drill through. The tighter your work is pressed to the scrap backing, the less blow out you get.
The plant reminded me of the movie WaterWorld with Kevin Cosner with nearly same boat.
You’re working like a boatsmith this week. You’ve come far. 😊
We like old credit cards for use in spreading epoxy and sealant…and filler, too. LOVE your progress. Great not to rush. You are rockin’ it, Mark! 😎❤️🥰😎❤️🥰
Drill a pilot hole and then drill from both sides the correct size, a new breakthrough 🤣⛵️
Press on, the end is in sight!
When drilling a thru hole place a piece of scrap wood under it to avoid that annoying break out, try to find an old small drill press the cheap old ones are fine.
Looks like the glue you used for the wood plugs was a 1-component Polyurethane glue. They cure with the humidity in the air and wood and are known as one of the best glue for wood and outsoor use. I am surpriced to see so much Epoxy used for wood gluing. I concider Polyurethane better for that. There are many brands, like Sika, Casco, Illbruk etc. in rheumatologist market. They do naturally expand a bit and therefore fill gaps and small cavities. Well done in this episode. Again 😊
Soothing music while watching
You are doing great keep her lit.
Your videos get better and better every episode. I like the music a lot.
Thank you for doing all the editing and creative camera work and handing out inspiration like it’s candy.🙏🏽
You are doing so much work, I would recommend putting a metal plate on the inside instead of wood to anyone doing this. Better for bolts to be in traction against metal and spread the load on the weak parts.
Your doing well Mark you seem more relaxed now adays well done
You are doing great, young Jedi.
That dynamia weave looks good. Pretty soon you're going to be splicing dynamia line in your sleep bud. Keep it going looks great
Great episode. Lots of work and not so much unnecessary talking about obvious things. Looks good what you are doing!
I see you have fully embraced the slow and steady way of the drilling. Good for you my friend, good for you.
You get better everyday. Great work!
Really enjoyed it Mark. You’re doing a great job as always. It’s going to be a real strong boat.!!😉
Man, you are one heck of an inspiration. I like the way you talk about your processes and quality as you go. It helps it all seem real to us armchair helpers.
Mark
You are doing a great job. Loved all your welding episodes, iv asked our Manager at work for a small welder, so many uses for making your own tools etc. Best thing when you get frustrated with a job, walk away have a coffee or Tea. Then it's all good.
Again great work.
Bill
Niagara falls,Canada
Top work as always Mark, doing a great job!
I just love Your videos. One hell of a job you have taken on ! Well done ! You will get there with Your tenacity and determination. Keep up the good work and the videos. 👍👍⛵
Pliers on threads never good, try 3 nuts, 2 make a lock nut while you tighten the third, works if you have enough thread length, respect to the one man job, there's always a way!
You continue to amaze me how you are putting this together. I hope it maintains its sea worthiness and allows you many hours of enjoyment.
Being a Wharram, it's already off to a good start in the seaworthiness department.
It takes so much time to work alone without a helper. Filming and editing on top of it, it’s enormous job. You are doing great! 🎉
10:40 You knew it before. Just drill on some sacrificial wood.
Oh my days Mark, that Drill Game Of yours is on point from all those broken burnt out bits of the past ! On Wards and upwards, time to set Sail
tip; put masking tape over the others side of the plank to the drill to help with chip out. take your time at the last 3 mill of the hole , back off the pressure then :)
Professional work again Mark - As usual. You are very thorough and meticulous - Just like Mr Wasp!
Nice job. Good video, I enjoyed it. Liked the music as well. Thank you, Duke.
Mark with each video you are becoming more professional in the way you are building thing great work
Masterful filming and masterful editing of masterful work on the chain plates installation! Thank you Mark for another entertaining episode.
I enjoyed your empathetic interaction with Waspy too.
Barracuda, bending steel, backing plates, oh my! Really enjoyed watching -- great content and terrific progress.
Just keep on keeping on Mark, won’t be long and you will be doing a shake down sail!!!
You've came a long way Mark. Boat building and or Restoration takes a lot of skill and years of experience. You have improved dramatically in a short time. Enjoyed the video Mate.
More progress and great episodes. Thank you for sharing 🙏
I never owned or even used a "router", but I want one, after seeing all your great work using this little gem to give things a professional looking finish - keep up the good work, your boat is looking amazing !!!
like everyone else said lol.... to fix the ripped/fraid edges on the boards when drilling through, you can put a scrap piece of board under the wood you need to drill through, having the extra wood underneath, the drill bit won't rip the board.
My Friday fix! 👍🏽😎
Good news, the more holes you drill in your boat, the easier it gets 👍. West System has great penetration so you shouldn’t need to fill your holes again. The chain plates are looking great.
When you work on your boat like this you know all the boat well and that is a great thing to have.
You'll definitely be sailing again this summer. I'm predicting a launch on the 12th August.
Stirling stuff just finished watching your channel from the beginning. Love it.
Your skills and attention to detail keep improving. Doing excellent work.
Gratuitous comment for the algorithm.
Another great episode, doing a grand job. Just a small tip, once you've started to drill through wood, stop briefly, down size the bit and drill through. Turn over the wood and dtill from the other side resulting in zero breakout. Weekend fix done and looking forward to Friday's fix already. All the best from Germany.
Mark, what all the other sailing channels do when drilling holes in their decks that have any kind of timber core, they drill oversized holes, then completely fill the hole with epoxy. once it is hardened, then they drill out the smaller correct size for the screw or bolt and all you have then is a complete epoxy hole and no core in sight, thus saving any water from ever getting into the core. What you were doing in the video will still allow water to get into the timber core.
You are doing really well. Great work keep it up.
Good progress , Looking forward to seeing you step the mast 😃🍻