Installing New Work Boxes & Wire Terminations
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- Electric Pro Academy
How to install a new work electrical box and the correct way to run a new wire to the box. Including how to correctly secure the wire with a service loop and tuck the wire into the electrical box.
Code References in order as they appear: NEC 300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage, 334.15(C) 1/4" outer jacket inside the box.
My new favourite channel on YT for all things electrical. This man is a gifted teacher.
I’m so glad I found your channel. Leaps and bounds better than most videos and so through. Thank you!
You are not only a master electrician but an excellent teacher Just because someone is good in the trades does not make them a good teacher or trainer!!
A little over twenty years ago I built an in law appartment for my inlaws. We positioned the receptacles 20 inches above the subflooring. Today, now in my mid-seventies, I really appreciate the little extra height. Something to think about...
I wish you were my mentor back in the day. I bet you are an awesome boss.
Thanks Joel! I like the jig idea. That will save a lot of time.
Thank you❤
I am a widow, wiring a small house for myself and this is invaluable. I DO HAVE A MASTER electrician checking my work and doing the actual connections and the service box. I simply cannot afford for him to do the basic things I can accomplish myself 😊
This is exactly what we hope to hear from our viewership! Love that you're getting after it yourself!
Professional homeowner here and I really appreciate your videos. Our 70 yo home has all electrical in EMT and we’ve got 3ph here too! I’ve really enjoyed learning from electricians like you that are willing to share your knowledge.
Wow, that must make rewiring easy!
You are a very good teacher. I am building my own home and have gotten to the rough wiring.
Excellent instructor and the best content on professional electrical installations. Great use of a jig!
cute hammer? Killer jig!
just a great channel and very articulate and thorough in your explanations. appreciated
Old timers like myself used the great Klien fiberglass termed electricians hammer because the depth from hammer head to handle was at least 2 & 1/4" long. This was the only one that I locate with long enough neck to hammer roofing nails into deep 2 &1/8" metal boxes back in the 1960's before we started using cordless drills to install wood or sheet rock screws to secure boxes.
Great job and professional filming!
Keep going man
You're the best! Thanks.
18 inch's for receptacles box's --switch box's 52 inchs-- dryer /washer/kitchen gfi's 42 inches and lastly range box 3 inches from floor ..outside gfi 's depends ....here in canada where i live
Ok. Here it is. Guys measure up 12" to the bottom of the box in residential installation. Because just like your hammer, a good Stanley or Plumb hammer has the claw 12" from the end of the handle. Then you just set your hammer on the floor and bump the claw against the stud leaving a mark for the bottom of the box. No tape measure, mo marker, no template. Just make sure everyone else has a hammer that is the same length. 16oz Stanley or Plumb. Available at home depot. On commercial work the bottom of the box will be 16". This is because that's 2 courses up on block, with each course measureing 8". Now you just place your box which is metal, with about 40" of conduit stubbed up, and just set it on wall or against wall where you want it to go and the mason will place the box assembly on the 2nd course as he builds the wall. For AD,A the requirement is 16" to the middle of the box. So at 2 courses or 16" to the bottom you meet ADA requirements. If you go 16" to top of box you will be below ADA requirements. Switches a bit tricky. ADA is 48" to middle. Hard to do in block because of bond beam and rebar. Most inspectors will let you go 2" higher on block so you set the box with bottom at 48". Now there is room for rebar as box is set above rebar and rebar is in the notch cut on the block.
I also put yellow tape on all my tools!🤣 just so they don’t mixed or walk off the job site by “themselves”
Nice videos
Weird music…dope video
I am probably too late since you’ve been making videos for a couple years but a guy like me who doesn’t know anything and then you start talking about 14/2 etc, i got lost. Sure, I can go to another video and find out what that means but it would be nice if you explain stuff as you go along so we can become electricians like you
Thanks for the feedback, @kevincolvin5205. This was one of our first videos and when we started on CZcams it was just for the purpose of having a video library to direct our apprentices to. We assumed some background knowledge simply based on their time in the field. Since then, the channel has really grown and we've tried to accommodate DIYers a little better while still providing quality input for electrical apprentices & business owners. By all means please let us know on our other videos if you notice patterns of missing information!
Is there a NEC requirement to always nail/fasten the box to the right of a stud? Or just happen to be the side where the dominant hand of whomever roughing the cable?
You need that jig, because you are using cheap Carlon Boxes, which are not preset on the box. If you use other brands, like P&S, which I use, you don't need a jig. they do cost more. But easier to use, and they also have "quick clicks" to mount your devices. With the boxes you are using, you almost have to have a screw drill to mount the devices, or you will wear out your wrist drying to screw the devices to the box. With P&S, you don't need a drill.
@@ElectricProAcademy I know that. I have owned my electrical business for 32 years. I am well aware of everything you just said. And having wired many houses, and bought thousands of electrical boxes, as I still am, Carlons are a drain on labor time. With a P&S box no template is needed. When I ask other contractors why they buy Carlons....every answer was..."they are Cheap".... My statement above still stands.
Must be a regional thing in NH and most of ne seems box height is 18 center 16 bottom switches 42 center 40 bottom 🤔
why did your use 14/2 instead of 12/2 for a receptacle? (just wondering, not a troll)
@@ElectricProAcademy thank you for the reply. Is there any advantage to running a 20a vs a 15a circuit? (for normal outlets, not devices that specifically call for 20a) Would a 20a circuit allow you to add more receptacles on it?
The span of my hand is about a foot 😂
More plastic. Oy vey... I really hope if I hire someone, they don't put that crap in my home. Because after they are finished, I would then tell them NO PLASTIC and make them redo it all.