Tire Changer Balancer Upgrades
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- čas přidán 18. 06. 2023
- This is some upgrades I made to the Mayflower 988 and Balancer 680
I'll post a comment below with more info and specs
Link to the Install and info vid • Mayflower 988 Tire Cha...
My VID Playlists / mrmotofy
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Mayflower 988 Tire Changer (950 with 2 helper arms)
Deliveries require a forklift to unload at a business OR pay for Residential delivery + $150
For clarification the 560 is the smaller unit up to about 18” rims has the square tube rear upright and requires assembly of the bead breaker.
Air needs: Suggest a compressor with 4CFM @ 90psi or higher as the bare minimum. Higher the cfm at 90 the more air they put out and fill tanks faster. If you have a small tank, get an air tank from Marketplace and Tee in the line with at least 3/8” line and short as reasonably possible. I've seen 5-10gal tanks for $10-$20. Use a quarter turn ball valve to bypass the tank etc. You can also double up compressors ideally with the same pressure switch settings. Air just flows through the lines and doesn't really matter where it comes from.
The 950 is the larger up to 22” rims, has the “Bead Blaster” and main rear upright is a round cylinder air tank. There's also the options of the 2 helper arms the #232 unit making the #988 unit. The other #300 with the black additional upright with 2 round pipe arms on it with a disk, making the #960.
The Mayflower 988/680 pair can fit tight in a space about 80” wide IF the Balancer is turned sideways so shaft is out facing you. Other arm options will need more space. The 988 (950 changer with 2 extra arms) is about 45” deep.
I used casters on the 988, Harbor Freight #62276 3” locking 100lb. NEED (QTY 8) regular 1/2”-20 nuts (ORDER or get at a regular hardware store. Home stores don't stock them but can order some). Unit is at or over the max weight of the casters so user beware. Remove rubber foot on bottom, just pops out. Install 1 nut all the way down on caster then insert up through hole and install 2nd. Caster shaft needs a spacer so could use 1/2” flat washers too instead of the first nut. Foot bracket is upside down U channel.
1 Upgrade I added was a 1/4” NPT street elbow to the main airline input on the regulator after removing the factory Japanese style fitting the US doesn't use. That allows the air hose to hang down when connected instead of straight out the back. Then used a 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” hose barb to a 6' section of hose for a whip to move the connection out where it's convenient. That way it's easy to connect when using. Then I added a 1/4” NPT quarter turn valve so machine can be disconnected without losing all air pressure in case air supply line is needed etc.
Another upgrade I did was added a higher volume airline. The “Bead Blaster” is almost a joke and SLOW. If you see the size of airline and the regulator it runs through you'll understand. I've seen a few add a line at the Regulator. That technically does work but doesn't have the flow capacity I desired. So I added a line to the tank(rear upright). Remove the included Tee for the gauge. Tank bung is 1/4” NPT so I used a Milton s-646 1/4” NPT Hex nipple into the bung using 4 layers of Teflon Tape on all connections. Then I used a Milton s-655 Brass 1/4” NPT Tee which has 3 Female fittings. One end screws onto the previous nipple so the middle connection is centered and angled down and back a little. The included Tank gauge Tee then screws into the other end of the new Tee. Then the middle is a port for a new hose to connect Using a male 1/4” NPT fitting like Milton s-602 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” ID hose barb and a hose clamp etc. I cut about an 8' chunk of another 3/8” ID air hose. I strongly suggest not using 1/4” hose. Then a quick connect fitting on the end. I use and highly recommend the High Flow Milton Type V couplers. You can use a regular air chuck or make a little “bead blaster” that runs way better. Use a quick connect fitting then a quarter turn 1/4” valve then a short section of hose and an air chuck that locks on. This is a much higher volume short hose feed off the tank. Smaller and more hose length are restrictions. You can now swap chucks and fill higher psi tires and a higher flow bead blaster. But care must be taken using the new bead blaster as it's got straight tank pressure. So use carefully and once bead pops insert valve and use a gauge to fill properly. The Milton fittings are examples and not required it's all basic plumbing fittings available at any plumbing dept.
680 Balancer Options/Upgrades
Will also need a 15” Steel car rim and tire to calibrate, ideally NEW. NOT an alum or trailer rim
Many truck rims will need an additional adapter cone with 5.5” diameter that's sold separately for balancing. The largest included cone is like 4 1/4” Dia.
For best results the 680 Balancer, should be anchored to floor. Don't just bolt down unless floor is perfectly level where unit sits. Base is bolted down with (3) 3/8” threaded anchor bolts ideally with 2 1/2” of threads sticking up to level with. Method is below. I wasn't ready to anchor yet so leveled with 3 3/8” x 2 1/2” hex bolt, 6 3/8” flat washers, 6 3/8” nuts. A small thin rubber piece size of a tire patch works good on floor to help keep from walking across floor.
Install a nut on the 3/8” bolt approx 1/16” from head of bolt, then a washer. Insert bolt FROM BOTTOM UP through holes on bracket then install 2nd washer and 2nd nut loose, then do same to other 2 holes/bolts. The lowest nut can be adjusted up and down to raise and lower the machine bracket sitting on it. Use a 2nd wrench as needed to hold the hex head while adjusting nut up/down. Use a 24” level on the side of the case to adjust till plumb side to side and front to back. Don't use the plastic tray on top, there's no way to know if it's level to anything. Use the base sides. Then when height is good tighten down the top nut to keep height. 1 wrench holding bolt head 2nd on top nut tightening. Essentially the machine bracket is sandwiched between 2 washers with a nut on top and below. Parking lot light posts are mounted similar for reference except threaded rods are in concrete. As the concrete anchors should be to secure it.
On our older machine you can turn the regulator up inside the machine for the "bead blaster box gauge" i think i got ours up to like 90 or 100 but i basically do the same as you using a seperate line when im seating everything
SURE you can turn it up but the line and fittings are just 1/8" or something and just can't flow that much. I seen one guy uses an airline fitting to vinyl hose and a hose clamp to the valestem. He said he's never had one he couldn't get to seat. Couple different ways to do it.
If you ever have another very difficult tire there is a tool you can buy it works the same as the giant O rings some places used but in essence imagine having a skinny tire or smashed tire from shipping etc on a rim that is a bit wide and the gape between rim bead and tire bead is 2-8 inches in gap imagine if you could say cut a 5
Gallon bucket and wrap the rim with the bucket pushing down onto the tire essentially closing off the space between the tire and rim beads then you would use a small friction type strap/clasp or even zip ties or even a ratchet strap to lightly secure the plastic then you would cut a hole or U shape slot on the botom edge of the bucket that contacts the tire and that hole is were you would stick your cheeta blaster tank nozzle you can make one of these tools cutting plastic from a bluenor white 30 or 55 gallon plastic drum or buy one from a company for around 50 bucks i made my self a few of them differnt size diameter and heights and i tell you can mount any tire even if its completely smashed were the widthe between the 2 tire beads is barely 1 inch and the rim width could be 12 inches gap as long as your plastic peice is tall enougj to fill the gap you can mount anything with this when you blast it it kinda just pops up out of the way ive never had it smash me in the face or anything and i just personally use zip ties on mine the company that sells it uses the small friction clasp strap riveted to the side ill post a link for you
Probably can't post links. But if you make a vid and describe how to find that would help. Or put the vid alphanumeric identifier to search for that helps too.
Helpful video! I noticed that Mayflower has a 980 with 300 assist arm. Is this the top dog model compared to the 960 or the 988?
Thanks, I think the 980 is the same as the 960 except red, I haven't used the discs so can't say if they're better or not. There's a tiltback model that's even more expensive the 999, I can see how that may be useful...as in no readjusting needed. The price is crazy for an average Joe or a small shop.. Really boils down to your preferences and budget. You can see all their products on their website Mayflowertools dot com Order on there there's no taxes...I think they suck your $ straight to China. Ebay and Amazon should charge you tax
@@mrmotofy Great video. The 980 in addition to being red is a much larger machine. Will do up to a 49-inch tire compared to the 988's 37 inch. Also, it can do outside clamping of 24" wheels compared to the 988/950 20 inch. At only $100.00 more it's almost a no brainer, except for the extra space it takes up. This is why I may go with the 988.
@@mickeyj4228 Thanks, I wanted to share some info and knowledge. I have another one talking about air compressor upgrades/mods too.
Oh yep you're right, the 988 must have a larger table or different clamp. I think there may be clamp adapters that allow larger too. But yea it depends on one's needs. A lot of cars these days don't go beyond a 20" but if ya got the space and money...get a monster. Many of us looking at these machines don't have a lot of either.
I also bought a pair and the tire machine rocks Totally flawless. However with that said the balancers are JUNK TOTAL JUNK!!!! Do not buy their balancer! The balancer will indicate a balanced tire when you think you are done and they are not actually balanced, Don't believe me? Go ahead and balance your tire and remove it from the machine and put it back on again and check the balance! It will no longer give a zero reading. I have called Justin at Mayflower about this multiple times and he just tells me not to re check the balance and this is normal.
How many balancers have you used and compared to? Show us a video of another balancer zeroing out again a 2nd time