If you drop the low mids 2.5db the acoustic crossover will shift lower at that low to high mid xover point. Possibly why you got a 400hz lump.. but then you'd need post eq to get you lows you wanted.
I appreciate everything you've shown just bought my 2nd dsp and it seems a little mystery. You would think by now a software would be made where you plug in, have a mic and it does the rest or the system would tell you where your mistakes are then you correct and then you can later adjust for listening pleasure. So many so call pros keep everything a secret and the steps just to get the beginning correct it is ridiculous. The dsp companies should have a step by step of set up on their websites for customers or potential buyers cause you spend a 1k or more on a dsp and then it's like ok go do it. I think it is a good hustle but they should at least have on line support to help new people get started
@@RAW-CAt sir if you can help me well you have the knowledge, I'm trying to get my rearfill in order with the 3 way curves and the rear deck is loud and also I have rear door speakers. I mean do I eq after I do the sub and 3way front or do I do it as a big left channel thing and just eq the frequencies were they lay regardless of speaker location. Just confused but I gotta get something done this install has had a life of 2yrs I'm trying to move on to a new one lol
If you set your gain correct from the beginning and your amps deliver as much as they can. How can you then boost the volume more in the DSP to gain a higer level on the mids and sub for example after you have equed them (1:34-1:49)? Will you not add a clipped signal then?
The reason I say 3khz is that 2-2.5khz is where you don’t get good summation between left and right mids so that’s not a great place to put the crossover, moving it up although not technically perfect for directivity of the midrange will be lots better than lower
If I can offer criticism, I think your targets could really be 2-3db higher.. You don't need to be completely under your raw response. I think you're leaving some dynamics on the table.. But whatever works for you. Also I'm surprised you don't let the tweeters play just a little lower.. Your mids get pretty choppy around 3500k. I just got a Helix, was great being able to just take some old measurements and dump the EQ into the software.. I'll still need to do a real tune later..
Well in a car the drivers are at a great angle from the listening position. So measuring at 90° makes all the drivers to measure similar due to the polar pattern of the mic. If you will point.it to the front you will have very different angle to left and right side drivers and the response will not be as accurate.
I want to run this in my car as well. I suspect my biggest issue is the subs are out of phase or has a timing mismatch. Unfortunately I can't see any way to correct it on a factory Harmon Kardin sound system
Whenever I tune my BMW 328i flat like your graph and similar house curve , it sounds overly bright and thin. It has to be a constant slop for some reason. What am I doing wrong? Thanks !
You are not doing anything wrong🙂 A house curve is a personal prefference. Maybe you are not used to have the top end? I would advise you to stick with a flat top end for a couple of weeks and let your ears to adjust to the new sound signature🙂
@@RAW-CAt don’t know man. I have quite a bit of experience with home stereo and my house curve has been the Harman curve in my home 2.2 system. And it sounds great. In my car however it does not sound so great. Could be the drivers. I did a RTA measurement of the old amp and drivers I have in my car and BMW had them tuned not flat either. Who knows
I wondered why do you always chose to tune around 50 to 60db or around 70db spl, normally is always around 90db spl. Also when you made the video about how to tune with the Helix TuneEQ tutorial you've been with your tuning volume in the yellow region en not in the green as the website on AudioFischer recommends. This way you are bringing confusion and misconception on the guys are watching your videos. Sorry not hard feelings man.... otherways I appreciate that you take time to make this videos wich for some guys and me included are really informative ! The information about how to properly tune a Car Audio from AudioFischer is not to find, because is about money...If this proper information ( in detail ) was given free... than a lot of the Audio Car Tuning business they will going out of business....Even then... ar not many guys in the Audio Car Tuning that can tune.... Best regards, and keep on tuning....
The SPL level does not matter as long as the measurements are 20-30dB higher than noise. This is so that you could see the whole crossover -24dB down. Using an XLR microphone, the SPL level is not calibrated, so in REW it can show 50dB but in reality might be 80dB. When I make videos I tend to play pink noise not as loud, as I need to record the noise, my voice and not to damage my hearing.
I read CAT BUG over and over but actually seeing how to really helped me understand, thanks for doing this. I watched all the videos...
very very nice video... very informative. EQing first to flat 1 octave above/below is something I didn't know.
Nice work 😊
Really like that u test all this. Its really intresting.
thank you for your video series you helped me to understand the whole thing correctly 👍
Very cool.
Good stuff
If you drop the low mids 2.5db the acoustic crossover will shift lower at that low to high mid xover point. Possibly why you got a 400hz lump.. but then you'd need post eq to get you lows you wanted.
Thanks for the video. Planning on tuning my car and using REW for the first time. What are the values on your RTA settings and on the main graph?
I appreciate everything you've shown just bought my 2nd dsp and it seems a little mystery. You would think by now a software would be made where you plug in, have a mic and it does the rest or the system would tell you where your mistakes are then you correct and then you can later adjust for listening pleasure. So many so call pros keep everything a secret and the steps just to get the beginning correct it is ridiculous. The dsp companies should have a step by step of set up on their websites for customers or potential buyers cause you spend a 1k or more on a dsp and then it's like ok go do it. I think it is a good hustle but they should at least have on line support to help new people get started
@@RAW-CAt sir if you can help me well you have the knowledge, I'm trying to get my rearfill in order with the 3 way curves and the rear deck is loud and also I have rear door speakers. I mean do I eq after I do the sub and 3way front or do I do it as a big left channel thing and just eq the frequencies were they lay regardless of speaker location. Just confused but I gotta get something done this install has had a life of 2yrs I'm trying to move on to a new one lol
@@RAW-CAt I appreciate your time and help
If you set your gain correct from the beginning and your amps deliver as much as they can. How can you then boost the volume more in the DSP to gain a higer level on the mids and sub for example after you have equed them (1:34-1:49)? Will you not add a clipped signal then?
The reason I say 3khz is that 2-2.5khz is where you don’t get good summation between left and right mids so that’s not a great place to put the crossover, moving it up although not technically perfect for directivity of the midrange will be lots better than lower
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Do you find you enjoy music with a flat tune, or do you end up boosting certain hz?
If I can offer criticism, I think your targets could really be 2-3db higher.. You don't need to be completely under your raw response. I think you're leaving some dynamics on the table.. But whatever works for you. Also I'm surprised you don't let the tweeters play just a little lower.. Your mids get pretty choppy around 3500k. I just got a Helix, was great being able to just take some old measurements and dump the EQ into the software.. I'll still need to do a real tune later..
I would be lowering the crossover to around 3khz and that will make the midrange blend be so much nicer, using most tweeters down to that is fine
Ya was thinking the same.... I'd try 3400ish before boosting.
👏👏👏👏👏
I've always been told to place the mic at 90 degrees ONLY when measuring for a surround sound setup. Point the mic at the drivers for everything else.
Well in a car the drivers are at a great angle from the listening position. So measuring at 90° makes all the drivers to measure similar due to the polar pattern of the mic. If you will point.it to the front you will have very different angle to left and right side drivers and the response will not be as accurate.
I want to run this in my car as well. I suspect my biggest issue is the subs are out of phase or has a timing mismatch. Unfortunately I can't see any way to correct it on a factory Harmon Kardin sound system
That is why you need a DSP...
What rack is that in the back? I would like a similar setup.
@@RAW-CAt brand name of the shelf please.
Equing dips you car wreck the speaker if you turn up the volume up. You may get the amp into clipping
"MAY" is the main word here. Gain structure setup correctly doesn't introduce clipping. All speakers are still fine by the way👍
Do you still tune your system with 3-4dB drop at around 3kHz? Or you changed your mind since and try to make it flat in that area?
I still have that drop, as I listen to a lot of harsh rock music😬
@@RAW-CAt would you mind to share your target curve which I can import to REW? It would be really helpful. Thank you
Whenever I tune my BMW 328i flat like your graph and similar house curve , it sounds overly bright and thin.
It has to be a constant slop for some reason.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks !
You are not doing anything wrong🙂 A house curve is a personal prefference. Maybe you are not used to have the top end? I would advise you to stick with a flat top end for a couple of weeks and let your ears to adjust to the new sound signature🙂
@@RAW-CAt don’t know man. I have quite a bit of experience with home stereo and my house curve has been the Harman curve in my home 2.2 system. And it sounds great.
In my car however it does not sound so great.
Could be the drivers.
I did a RTA measurement of the old amp and drivers I have in my car and BMW had them tuned not flat either.
Who knows
@@Nightjar726 maybe it is the car interior after all?🤷🏻♂️
@@RAW-CAt maybe. Who knows. I don’t have the experience with car audio to know what’s going on.
Do u still use this method with all your new knowledge
No, not really. I always do the crossovers first.
I wondered why do you always chose to tune around 50 to 60db or around 70db spl, normally is always around 90db spl. Also when you made the video about how to tune with the Helix TuneEQ tutorial you've been with your tuning volume in the yellow region en not in the green as the website on AudioFischer recommends. This way you are bringing confusion and misconception on the guys are watching your videos. Sorry not hard feelings man.... otherways I appreciate that you take time to make this videos wich for some guys and me included are really informative ! The information about how to properly tune a Car Audio from AudioFischer is not to find, because is about money...If this proper information ( in detail ) was given free... than a lot of the Audio Car Tuning business they will going out of business....Even then... ar not many guys in the Audio Car Tuning that can tune....
Best regards, and keep on tuning....
The SPL level does not matter as long as the measurements are 20-30dB higher than noise. This is so that you could see the whole crossover -24dB down. Using an XLR microphone, the SPL level is not calibrated, so in REW it can show 50dB but in reality might be 80dB. When I make videos I tend to play pink noise not as loud, as I need to record the noise, my voice and not to damage my hearing.
Do you have an email to contact you?
Better find me on Facebook and send me a message👍
@@RAW-CAt if only I were a facebooker
@@colbydolby6559 it's kochanskas@gmail.com