Another Pro Tip: After placing the laser level on the floor where you need to plumb the wall, take a sharpie and mark where the laser is showing up on the ground. That way, if the laser gets bumped, you can easily place it back in the same spot.
ty great vid, i could have used this on the job i am doing i wet shimmed, it came out ok except for the very top of the back wall i have to use extra thinset to build out the tile
This might be me being overly perfectionist, but one thing I find with those lasers is that once you start working a couple of metres away from them, the line edges start to blur a bit and it feels more difficult than it needs to be to get things exactly right. Right next to the laser it's a perfectly solid line, but after that things can get difficult, especially if lighting is somewhat dim.
That depends upon the laser. It's always best to check the lasers accuracy before purchasing. When further from the laser I depend on the center of the beam and not the edges
@@builtwithfoam277 I've been using a Huepar P03CG. Basically an upgraded model of the one you use, it's mostly just a fair bit brighter. Maybe that additional brightness is what is making it more difficult to make out past a certain distance with the edges (kind of like how red lasers have fewer parasitic beams due to lower brightness). Using the centre of the beam sounds more viable for sure. I'm probably also being too perfect with the spacing. I try to aim for less than 1mm deviation and use little bit of card on top to add a little bit extra if the spirit level isn't making full contact on one of the shims.
We thought long and hard about that but decided not to for several reasons, 1- studs aren't always clean enough for them to stick, 2- the cost of the shims would jump significantly, 3- you already have an open tube of something handy from the last job, and 4 - the pile of trash you'd have to deal with after peeling off all the backing.
We have had customers who have success with using our shims with Hardiebacker and other cement boards, but some others have not. We are not sure how their installation methods differ so at this point we cannot recommend it until more data is established
We used an ordinary 2x2 that is about 90 inches long. Used a router to notch in 3/4 inch slots twelve inches on center for the plywood squares where the laser sets. That way the story pole can be used upside down and still accurate.
By their instructions, Wedi requires 'Full support" You can check with your wedi rep to get a definition of 'full support' and how to accomplish the task. We have had several customers say our system works very well with Wedi panels.
@@builtwithfoam277 thank you! I have a house from 1890 with leaning wall. Kitchen has been demoed for a bit and we're just turning the corner. Drywall coming soon. So far you foam shims is the way I'm going to proceed.
This is the best system I have ever used in my life. My walls came out flawless.
Thanks for the review!
This is a game changer for me. I am working on an old farm house with super wonky walls. This system works awesome!!
Thanks for the kind words!
Another Pro Tip: After placing the laser level on the floor where you need to plumb the wall, take a sharpie and mark where the laser is showing up on the ground. That way, if the laser gets bumped, you can easily place it back in the same spot.
Thanks, I forgot to mention that. This tip is very important when doing 2 walls together at a 90º
ty great vid, i could have used this on the job i am doing i wet shimmed, it came out ok except for the very top of the back wall i have to use extra thinset to build out the tile
This might be me being overly perfectionist, but one thing I find with those lasers is that once you start working a couple of metres away from them, the line edges start to blur a bit and it feels more difficult than it needs to be to get things exactly right. Right next to the laser it's a perfectly solid line, but after that things can get difficult, especially if lighting is somewhat dim.
That depends upon the laser. It's always best to check the lasers accuracy before purchasing. When further from the laser I depend on the center of the beam and not the edges
@@builtwithfoam277 I've been using a Huepar P03CG. Basically an upgraded model of the one you use, it's mostly just a fair bit brighter. Maybe that additional brightness is what is making it more difficult to make out past a certain distance with the edges (kind of like how red lasers have fewer parasitic beams due to lower brightness). Using the centre of the beam sounds more viable for sure.
I'm probably also being too perfect with the spacing. I try to aim for less than 1mm deviation and use little bit of card on top to add a little bit extra if the spirit level isn't making full contact on one of the shims.
Add sticky back to them. 🙏🏻
We thought long and hard about that but decided not to for several reasons, 1- studs aren't always clean enough for them to stick, 2- the cost of the shims would jump significantly, 3- you already have an open tube of something handy from the last job, and 4 - the pile of trash you'd have to deal with after peeling off all the backing.
All fair points. 💪🏼
Question, can I use it behind hardiebaker?
We have had customers who have success with using our shims with Hardiebacker and other cement boards, but some others have not. We are not sure how their installation methods differ so at this point we cannot recommend it until more data is established
How do I build laser story pole? I’d like it every 12”, but it seems necessary. Any ideas and thanks in advance
We used an ordinary 2x2 that is about 90 inches long. Used a router to notch in 3/4 inch slots twelve inches on center for the plywood squares where the laser sets. That way the story pole can be used upside down and still accurate.
@@builtwithfoam277 thank u. I will give it a try
can these shims be used with Wedi shower system?
By their instructions, Wedi requires 'Full support" You can check with your wedi rep to get a definition of 'full support' and how to accomplish the task. We have had several customers say our system works very well with Wedi panels.
Can you put these on walls that will hold cabinets?
Yes. When you place the blocking between the studs for the cabinets, the blocking face should be aligned with the shims for perfect support.
@@builtwithfoam277 thank you! I have a house from 1890 with leaning wall. Kitchen has been demoed for a bit and we're just turning the corner. Drywall coming soon. So far you foam shims is the way I'm going to proceed.