I wish that I had known all this 70 plus years ago. I can still remember the disappointment on Christmas morning when my new Duchess of Atholl wouldn’t run and when it did it left the track. Just shows your never too old to learn. Thank you Ronald.
Thanks Ron! I found this video just as I'm working on my first 3 rail layout and you've answered most of my questions in one go. I'll have to go through your other posts and see if there is an engine maintenance video.
All be it what I have commented below, I must say that I found this video useful and interesting. Your comments on the crossover, points and shortening track were particularly useful to me
Thank you for this and your other videos for turning a nightmare into good running. Your no nonsense style is just great. I'm going to put a piece of track into a dishwasher to see if it survives. If so it could be a good way to clean the many pieces just bought. I have difficulty focusing on one voice when there is background radio. Perhaps you would care to switch it off so I may hear you more clearly. Many, many thanks. tom
To solder the track connections you should use muliticore solder sold specifically for electrical uses, and not the separate solder and flux you show here. The flux you have used is meant for plumbing where its acid nature will not significantly eat away the large copper mass involved with pipes. When used for electrical connections plumbing flux will eventually lead to failure of the electrical connection. Also whilst your about it, why not invest in a modern temperature controlled soldering iron. It will produce a much better soldered joint and help avoid any overheating damage to your work.
Hi there, I'd be uninterested to know how you cut your track pieces. Tin snips and a fine file are ok on Peco Streamline because the rail is solid but I don't think that'll work with HD 3-rail...
Hi, I have an electric tile cutter (just like a small table saw) but the next best way is perhaps to use a Dremel with a large cutting blade and then dress the end a little.
I am horrified to see you using abrasive to remove the track plating. You have ruined the track. If warm soapy water does not remove the dirt then use meths. Also, after washing the track, it should be dried in your oven set to 50C or so, to avoid corrosion.
Hi Tom. Not all HD track is plated and I have not removed any plating I only give it a quick rub with a fine abrasive pad and wash when I first buy them (to remove 50 years of accumulated grime), once on the layout I only use fluids and the occasional spotting with a track rubber. Meths is little better than water or a dry towel for cleaning, I use lighter fluid, especially on the rails. The only rails that may rust are the steel ones, and drying them in a dry atmosphere (plus they are warmed from the washing water) does not cause any noticeable corrosion. In fact if you dry them in what will be a humid oven (with the door closed) you may encourage corrosion. If you look at my track you may notice it is at least as good and in most cases better than you will find on most other layouts. Also the flux I use works well on the various mix of metals used in HD track. I have had no problem with its performance even after years of use. I know for soldering fine electrical joints other flux is recommended these days and I do use it in my circuit boards ect. I always flux and tin joints (usually in a solder pot) even when using cored solder. As they say "the proof of the pudding is in the eating" my methods give me a far better running HD layout than any others I have seen. Unintentional uncouplings, derailments and stalling are very rare, even when running 10 trains at a time. Check my videos. Regards, Ron
I wish that I had known all this 70 plus years ago. I can still remember the disappointment on Christmas morning when my new Duchess of Atholl wouldn’t run and when it did it left the track. Just shows your never too old to learn. Thank you Ronald.
Thank you Ronald very informative packed with handy tips
Thanks Ron! I found this video just as I'm working on my first 3 rail layout and you've answered most of my questions in one go. I'll have to go through your other posts and see if there is an engine maintenance video.
All be it what I have commented below, I must say that I found this video useful and interesting. Your comments on the crossover, points and shortening track were particularly useful to me
Thank you, that was very good.
Thank you for this and your other videos for turning a nightmare into good running. Your no nonsense style is just great.
I'm going to put a piece of track into a dishwasher to see if it survives. If so it could be a good way to clean the many pieces just bought.
I have difficulty focusing on one voice when there is background radio. Perhaps you would care to switch it off so I may hear you more clearly.
Many, many thanks. tom
I notice that you fishplates in the videos of your layout are exceptionally clean. How can I clean my fishplates, particularly the insides?
To solder the track connections you should use muliticore solder sold specifically for electrical uses, and not the separate solder and flux you show here. The flux you have used is meant for plumbing where its acid nature will not significantly eat away the large copper mass involved with pipes. When used for electrical connections plumbing flux will eventually lead to failure of the electrical connection.
Also whilst your about it, why not invest in a modern temperature controlled soldering iron. It will produce a much better soldered joint and help avoid any overheating damage to your work.
This is very similar to Lionel post war track with its differences. They are serviced the same.
Great information but can you do the eelctric points and also show how you get two trains on one line or do you isolate sections.
Hello Ronald do you have any videos about changing from 3 rail wagon wheels to 2 rail operation using plastic wheels?
Hi there, I'd be uninterested to know how you cut your track pieces. Tin snips and a fine file are ok on Peco Streamline because the rail is solid but I don't think that'll work with HD 3-rail...
Hi, I have an electric tile cutter (just like a small table saw) but the next best way is perhaps to use a Dremel with a large cutting blade and then dress the end a little.
Whats the 3rd rail for
Live rail
I am horrified to see you using abrasive to remove the track plating. You have ruined the track. If warm soapy water does not remove the dirt then use meths.
Also, after washing the track, it should be dried in your oven set to 50C or so, to avoid corrosion.
Hi Tom. Not all HD track is plated and I have not removed any plating I only give it a quick rub with a fine abrasive pad and wash when I first buy them (to remove 50 years of accumulated grime), once on the layout I only use fluids and the occasional spotting with a track rubber. Meths is little better than water or a dry towel for cleaning, I use lighter fluid, especially on the rails.
The only rails that may rust are the steel ones, and drying them in a dry atmosphere (plus they are warmed from the washing water) does not cause any noticeable corrosion. In fact if you dry them in what will be a humid oven (with the door closed) you may encourage corrosion. If you look at my track you may notice it is at least as good and in most cases better than you will find on most other layouts.
Also the flux I use works well on the various mix of metals used in HD track. I have had no problem with its performance even after years of use. I know for soldering fine electrical joints other flux is recommended these days and I do use it in my circuit boards ect. I always flux and tin joints (usually in a solder pot) even when using cored solder.
As they say "the proof of the pudding is in the eating" my methods give me a far better running HD layout than any others I have seen. Unintentional uncouplings, derailments and stalling are very rare, even when running 10 trains at a time. Check my videos.
Regards, Ron