Or you could put a few diodes on your sensing wire for less than $1 and accomplish the same thing. Dual 320 charging at 14.8. I put 4 diodes in series to each sensing wire and was charging at 16.3. 100 diodes was $5 on Amazon. I tried 5 diodes initially but cold it was charging at 16.9. Which was to high for my bank.
I meant to do a video on installing this a while back it’s easy though . You have a few wires that work for basically all applications. You have a communication wire that runs from alternator to the controller. You have an always hot wire which means with key off power is still running through it, you hook it up with a add a fuse basically 2 fuses in one. Then you have an ignition power wire that only has power run threw it when the key is turned on and then you have a ground wire 1. communication wire 2. Always hot 3. Only hot when keys on 4. Ground wire easy peas……
ExcellentI need to add a bigger alt in my car and some banks of lithium quick question adding this PCM is this okay for all the other 12 volt internals running in a normal vehicle meaning this will not damage anything will it? It's so nice that people like you making videos helping out... And for that I ty! MUCH RESPECT AND GOOD KARMA 👊👊
My alternator swap involved removing the radiator fans and wheel well (2011 Ford Edge - removed stock 150 amp alt - installed 390 amp JS alt) Maybe method would work for you as well.
@@brandonburton7233 I didn't get a battery light from using the US Alternator Ford PCM Adjustable voltage regulator with my D340p AGM. Every time I exceeded 15.5V is when charging system warning pop up until I lowered it below 15. Now that I switched to lithium 14V batteries AND disconnected power and ground OEM amp clamps to see if helps but hasn't yet even after a few hundred miles. I heard the car will assume the meters are broken and will stop trying to control voltage but idk if true. Will likely reconnect them to see what happens. Ideally I probably need to run this vehicle at dual voltages but probably requires 2 alternators. But not certain.
And did you do this on your stock alternator my stock alternator charges between 13.8-14.1 I've run the bypass test to see what it would do and with the alternator harness disconnected it won't go above 13.5 HO alternator on the way trying to understand everything
Is this essentially the same thing as the VCM 6003 from autotech i just ordered my alternator and the VCM and im concerned that with my 19 Camry being PCM controlled i may have the same issue if only being able to get to around the lower 15's instead of around 16 can you please tell me if this could get me to 16 volts
15.1 is perfect on a AGM battery it actually charges it. If you run any less on an AGM it won’t really charge it much. It’s not the same as a regular acid battery………it needs higher volts to charge……If I’m not mistaken Lithium or early tech Lithium always uses 14.1 volts or less to charge……
I have an 02 escape also. I put in a 240amp alternator from a different company along with a new yellow top optima and the big 3 upgrade, but now my voltage at idle is at 15.5v. Is that too high? Why would it be so high? Do you think this thing you're installing in this video would be something I should install?
Hey there, I bought the same PCM from US alternators for my 02 escape. Wondering how you wired in the PCM 3-wire harness. The OEM plugs only have 2-wires, nothing on the middle pin
what is the benefit? Do I still have to rev the rpm? Currently have big 3 and xs power under the hood and 250 amp alt. I am getting bad rpm drop and lights dimming.
No. This will basically tell the car to do what is necessary to hold a steady 14.8v. Youll still need to manually raise your RPMs if your alternator isnt able to keep up with the demand, tho
Just found your video after someone recommended this to me for my Mustang EcoBoost. How's it holding up? I have a 200 amp alternator but I have a system with 3 amplifiers, airbags, LEDs, Methanol pump and train horn. My vintage drops to 12V and even 11.7. I'm switching to a Lifepo4 in the trunk and deleting the front battery. Thinking I might need this.
@@acoupetroop617 of course..multiple battery companies make them specifically for car audio..limitless being one of the larger ones..I used a cyber 6k and 45 ah blue
So went and checked this out . Guessing it wont fix the Chrysler pc controlled voltage. Sucks cant get a large case in the hole . No room for a second alt and p.c holds voltage at 13.4 14v . I run a 250amp bosh hairpin but p.c f@€ks me out of my power.
You should look into what GM uses in Cadillacs if you wanna see something super shit.. Per spec it will let the alt drop to 12v no problem. Want to get this US Alt product, but $200 is a big ask..
Horrible choice for placement of the PCM. Why would you ever want any of it exposed other than the pot? And it’s meant to be mounted in the dash. Hide that other stuff
So basically you hook one wire up to a power wire that only becomes hot once the ignition is turned on, then another wire connects to a wire that is hot all the time (that means it has power running threw it constantly) then another wire goes to the alternator wire.....
Or you could put a few diodes on your sensing wire for less than $1 and accomplish the same thing. Dual 320 charging at 14.8. I put 4 diodes in series to each sensing wire and was charging at 16.3. 100 diodes was $5 on Amazon. I tried 5 diodes initially but cold it was charging at 16.9. Which was to high for my bank.
Can you tell me where can I find a play by play on how to put diodes on the alternator? , I'm planing to tackle this myself
@@jvamustangs several videos on CZcams. And it is super easy.
What car
@@jayj5112 03 f150 Harley Davidson with a 4 g alternator
I meant to do a video on installing this a while back it’s easy though . You have a few wires that work for basically all applications. You have a communication wire that runs from alternator to the controller. You have an always hot wire which means with key off power is still running through it, you hook it up with a add a fuse basically 2 fuses in one. Then you have an ignition power wire that only has power run threw it when the key is turned on and then you have a ground wire 1. communication wire 2. Always hot 3. Only hot when keys on 4. Ground wire easy peas……
Would the communication wire be the one that I would hook up the diodes to if I wanted to increase my voltage?
Will this work with an autotech alternator on a PCM controlled 19 Camry
I'm new to the channel, but I dig it! Subscribed.
ExcellentI need to add a bigger alt in my car and some banks of lithium quick question adding this PCM is this okay for all the other 12 volt internals running in a normal vehicle meaning this will not damage anything will it? It's so nice that people like you making videos helping out... And for that I ty! MUCH RESPECT AND GOOD KARMA 👊👊
I asked the company and they said the up to 16v version will not damage my '11 Ford Edge in any way.
Will it work on any high output alternator?
So you use the orange wire on the PCM harness for constant instead of the yellow?
Does your battery light come on after installation
Do you have a video on how you did the wiring to the alternator
My alternator swap involved removing the radiator fans and wheel well (2011 Ford Edge - removed stock 150 amp alt - installed 390 amp JS alt) Maybe method would work for you as well.
How did you get rid of the battery light on the ford edge
@@brandonburton7233 I didn't get a battery light from using the US Alternator Ford PCM Adjustable voltage regulator with my D340p AGM. Every time I exceeded 15.5V is when charging system warning pop up until I lowered it below 15. Now that I switched to lithium 14V batteries AND disconnected power and ground OEM amp clamps to see if helps but hasn't yet even after a few hundred miles. I heard the car will assume the meters are broken and will stop trying to control voltage but idk if true. Will likely reconnect them to see what happens. Ideally I probably need to run this vehicle at dual voltages but probably requires 2 alternators. But not certain.
And did you do this on your stock alternator my stock alternator charges between 13.8-14.1 I've run the bypass test to see what it would do and with the alternator harness disconnected it won't go above 13.5 HO alternator on the way trying to understand everything
Is this essentially the same thing as the VCM 6003 from autotech i just ordered my alternator and the VCM and im concerned that with my 19 Camry being PCM controlled i may have the same issue if only being able to get to around the lower 15's instead of around 16 can you please tell me if this could get me to 16 volts
If i have diods on my alternator line ,,will it still work with that pcm module? Please
Will the 2 of them work together ?
Will this work on stock Alternators? I have 08' silverado that cuts on and off charging from PCM. I want constant 14v..
So could you have ran ign and pow off of radio ? Wouldn't that been easier
Good stuff man...
Can you use that on a stock chevy cruze alternator?
Anyway thanks brother I just bought one yesterday waiting now for it to be shipped what are you running in n car sub wise
15.1 is perfect on a AGM battery it actually charges it. If you run any less on an AGM it won’t really charge it much. It’s not the same as a regular acid battery………it needs higher volts to charge……If I’m not mistaken Lithium or early tech Lithium always uses 14.1 volts or less to charge……
Is it safe to use in Mitsubishi Triton?
I have an 02 escape also. I put in a 240amp alternator from a different company along with a new yellow top optima and the big 3 upgrade, but now my voltage at idle is at 15.5v. Is that too high? Why would it be so high? Do you think this thing you're installing in this video would be something I should install?
Nah, that's a good voltage number for running a 2000W rms amplifier at full tilt with an extra battery to not put too much load on that single battery
Hey there, I bought the same PCM from US alternators for my 02 escape. Wondering how you wired in the PCM 3-wire harness. The OEM plugs only have 2-wires, nothing on the middle pin
what is the benefit? Do I still have to rev the rpm? Currently have big 3 and xs power under the hood and 250 amp alt. I am getting bad rpm drop and lights dimming.
No. This will basically tell the car to do what is necessary to hold a steady 14.8v. Youll still need to manually raise your RPMs if your alternator isnt able to keep up with the demand, tho
Just found your video after someone recommended this to me for my Mustang EcoBoost. How's it holding up?
I have a 200 amp alternator but I have a system with 3 amplifiers, airbags, LEDs, Methanol pump and train horn. My vintage drops to 12V and even 11.7.
I'm switching to a Lifepo4 in the trunk and deleting the front battery. Thinking I might need this.
Are the lifepo batts any good for audio
@@acoupetroop617 I went with a limitless Cyber 12K for ease...
@@acoupetroop617 of course..multiple battery companies make them specifically for car audio..limitless being one of the larger ones..I used a cyber 6k and 45 ah blue
Will this work with other alternators?
will it work for any high output alternator
That's what I really want to know
I have that same. One i charge. 16.0
Is this only for US alternators?
Where can I order all this
Hey bud I got this thing what I don’t understand is why you went to the battery with power if you went to a steady power in the cab also...?
I'm lost at this point
I love mine
So went and checked this out . Guessing it wont fix the Chrysler pc controlled voltage. Sucks cant get a large case in the hole . No room for a second alt and p.c holds voltage at 13.4 14v . I run a 250amp bosh hairpin but p.c f@€ks me out of my power.
Does that work on all vehicles? I have a 2017 gmc Sierra and am looking for something like this
they offer one for GM vehicles
Can't wait for them to drop this for honda/toyota/lexus etc because Honda's ELD is super fucking gay if you're trying to keep a steady 14v
You should look into what GM uses in Cadillacs if you wanna see something super shit.. Per spec it will let the alt drop to 12v no problem. Want to get this US Alt product, but $200 is a big ask..
Horrible choice for placement of the PCM. Why would you ever want any of it exposed other than the pot? And it’s meant to be mounted in the dash. Hide that other stuff
It's not really a how to video
I was expecting plug-n-play but opened up the shipping box and was like, "oh-shit"
Brandon Lee I hooked mine up finally it’s easy
So basically you hook one wire up to a power wire that only becomes hot once the ignition is turned on, then another wire connects to a wire that is hot all the time (that means it has power running threw it constantly) then another wire goes to the alternator wire.....
Trust me I racked my brain so hard and it was so easy basically it’s 3 wires let me go Check it’s been a while, I’ll do a video for ya
Oh yeah and there is a ground wire
So 4 wires 1 steady hot wire 1 “ignition” activated power wire 1 wire to the alternator and 1 ground wire