A note about the thick plate. MX switches won't click into the holes properly since the flexible "click" part assumes a plate of 1.5 mm thickness. I noticed this the hard way, lol. What I do is I add an offset to the switch holes, kind of like your stabs box, and make sure that there is a 1.5 mm thick part before it widens slightly
Great Video!! Very informative. This was the clearest explanation I have seen. This has really helped me with my 3x15 Macropad running on a Raspberry Pi Pico!
Hi Joe - Nice video. I got here via the article you wrote in kbd news. I really like how you presented the modeling workflow for the plate and the case. Thank you 👍
@@joe_scotto I had a teensy2 laying around for another project that I have been using to test out all of this handwired stuff since I saw your reddit post/youtube video-- I had success wiring up the 3x3 so I feel really inspired like I can keep going! I bought a couple "0xcb pluto" boards that look really pretty and are usb-c that I want to try something like the corne or your ScottoSplit, but a 60% O:-)
Just came across your channel. Sub & 👍! I really like how you explain stuff. I'd love to see a guide on how to add some concavity to the plate. That's always been a tough topic to wrap my head around but I feel like I'd get it if you explained it.
Hey , Im going to make my own keyboard, hand wired, all of the body part from scratch. But I dont know how big the hole should be for my Cherry MX red. Anyone know how big it should ? Is it 14 mm like this video told ?
How would I go about doing this for an already existing keyboard its' pcb? I'm thinking about perhaps at some point arranging a custom shell for the Monsgeek m1w HE i'm about to adopt, but I dont think anything I would like to do to it is possible with the default switchplate and case, nor does anyone sell aftermarket stuff for it that does what i want.
If you’re referring to the plate, I would still say to use 3mm thick. You can add a recessed section of 1.5mm thickness inside the switch cutouts to allow them to click in.
@@joe_scotto I'm planning on gasket mounting my pcb and plate sandwich. this would be a brass material on top of the plate. Your switch size diagram helps a lot but I was wondering if there was already a size you used.
Really cool video, What program do you use to configure the screw holes in your plate? I am currently working on a plate for my board which only has fp3 plates available. I really want to try a more flexible plate on this one. My drawing is already finished, just need to finish up with the screw holes and I can place my order. Thank you so much in advance!
That last section was so smootly done! I'm using freecad and I don't know if it's a skill issue, or if shapr3d is really that better. I want to try it but the free tier of shapr3d looks ass :/
Not really much to say about it. Really you just need to place it countersunk in the case and position a hole to match where the port is. The only thing I change build to build really is the dimensions depending on the controller.
Depends on the controller. For most boards I just measure the dimensions and hot glue it into a cutout with them. More recently though I’ve been using socket headers: czcams.com/video/Qkx9M-AzznE/video.html
im not sure if you mentioned it yet, but I am trying to make an alice keyboard or something generally similar to that which involves a gap/space. how would i set this up within the keyboard layout editor? thanks
It’s a pain in the ass simply put. You have to use anchor points and rotation to get everything set right. I do believe though that it has a preset for the Alice that you could then modify. That might make it a bit easier.
@@joe_scotto I was on the mechkeys discord and got some formats that I've been able to use. I'm currently about to add the screw holes to the plate if I can figure it out, its my first time using fusion 360 so I'm having a bit of trouble. What software were you using?
@@joe_scotto another question I had was, if the stabilizers are plate mounted and there is no pcb, what is preventing them from just falling out of the bottom? are they close enough to hit the bottom of the case?
You could possibly glue it into the plate but the issue then would most likely be binding of the wire. The only other possible option I could see is maybe cutting out a rectangle from the 3mm plate and then trying to fit a 1.5mm thick portion in there with glue. The real best option IMO is just printing the plate if at all possible because then both of those issues won't exist anymore since it's basically a "hybrid" thickness plate.
Do you really pay $25 for Shapr? Is it really worht it? Tried the basisc and tutorial and it feels like a great step up from Sketchup to get me closer to Fusion 360... Just not sure I can front that cash every month on a program I'd use pretty infrequently.
I think it’s very worth it, I’ve tried fusion 360 and the performance is terrible on my Mac. Shapr3D is very intuitive to use which is what I love about it. If you happen to be a student, they have a discount that will give it to you free.
@@joe_scotto that's why I liked SketchUp when I first started using it all those years ago. I would prefer something with constraints and sketches over SketchUp. It's getting old now. My van build 3d model is way too complex now for SketchUp to be fun.. Thanks for the reply. I love the fast paced tutorial that assumed I'm smart enough to figure the rest out.
I don't remember what I said in the video but there shouldn't be an issue laser cutting MX/Alps. However, there is an issue 3D printing MX/Alps cutouts and that is that if you do the standard 1.5mm thick plate, it will be really flexible on a 3D print. To negate that issue, I print my plates at 3mm and use either 1.5mm thick recessed areas to help clip them in or just rely on friction.
@@joe_scotto Thanks. It makes sense. I'm looking at options for creating a custom keyboard. Currently, I am considering SLA or FDM for the case, but I'm concerned it might be too large or too expensive to print using an online service. I'm going for a 60 to 65% form factor. Btw, if 1.5mm is too flexible for a 3D printed tape, you might be able to epoxy small ridged metal bars horizontally across the plate in rows. It can also serve as ground bus bars to reduce the wiring. It's unclear, however, if there's enough clearance where you'll need them. Copper tape is another option and can be soldered onto, however, it won't add much rigidity to the plate.
@@joe_scotto yeah thats the title which was too long for being entirely readable on my device before clicking on it. the thumbnail simply states "designing keyboards is easy". but dw i dont blame you for clickbait or anything you did talk about what you state in the title, i simply had wrong expectations
A note about the thick plate. MX switches won't click into the holes properly since the flexible "click" part assumes a plate of 1.5 mm thickness. I noticed this the hard way, lol. What I do is I add an offset to the switch holes, kind of like your stabs box, and make sure that there is a 1.5 mm thick part before it widens slightly
Yup, that’s what I do now and updated all my boards to use the same. Makes it sturdy while still allowing them to clip in
Pls make a stacked acrylic plates and cases tutorial next!!!
Great Video!! Very informative. This was the clearest explanation I have seen. This has really helped me with my 3x15 Macropad running on a Raspberry Pi Pico!
very informative, I haven't seen any other video's with a clearer explanation!
Hi Joe - Nice video. I got here via the article you wrote in kbd news. I really like how you presented the modeling workflow for the plate and the case. Thank you 👍
Glad you liked it :)
this video is gold
dude that was sick! crazy good explanation for a lot of complicated steps. of course it always looks easy watching a vid tho...
This was invaluable. Thank you.
I'm working on my "Josho-9" now, redesigning the Scotto-9 to fit my microcontroller. =] I'll post it over in /r/handwired when I get it wired up!
Hell yeah! Which controller are you going with?
@@joe_scotto I had a teensy2 laying around for another project that I have been using to test out all of this handwired stuff since I saw your reddit post/youtube video-- I had success wiring up the 3x3 so I feel really inspired like I can keep going!
I bought a couple "0xcb pluto" boards that look really pretty and are usb-c that I want to try something like the corne or your ScottoSplit, but a 60% O:-)
Just came across your channel. Sub & 👍!
I really like how you explain stuff. I'd love to see a guide on how to add some concavity to the plate. That's always been a tough topic to wrap my head around but I feel like I'd get it if you explained it.
Glad you like it! Could you explain more what you mean by “concavity”?
@@joe_scottoAngling each row
Loving these videos
Informative! Thank you
Question: Where do i go to get the keyboard cnc'd?
what CAD software is this? :O
great video! thank you
Great video
Hey , Im going to make my own keyboard, hand wired, all of the body part from scratch. But I dont know how big the hole should be for my Cherry MX red. Anyone know how big it should ? Is it 14 mm like this video told ?
Yes, 14x14mm is the standard size hole cutout for all MX switches, including cherry red.
@@joe_scotto thank you sir, really appreciate it
Is there any way to add a rotary encoder using these tools?
i had the same question, i you found any solution to this please share
How would I go about doing this for an already existing keyboard its' pcb?
I'm thinking about perhaps at some point arranging a custom shell for the Monsgeek m1w HE i'm about to adopt, but I dont think anything I would like to do to it is possible with the default switchplate and case, nor does anyone sell aftermarket stuff for it that does what i want.
What if we use pre-built pcbs? How do we align the screws with the plate/case?
You just align them based on the dimensions of the pcb screw holes.
Great video this helps me a lot. One question what mm would you recommend for a top case?
If you’re referring to the plate, I would still say to use 3mm thick. You can add a recessed section of 1.5mm thickness inside the switch cutouts to allow them to click in.
@@joe_scotto I'm planning on gasket mounting my pcb and plate sandwich. this would be a brass material on top of the plate. Your switch size diagram helps a lot but I was wondering if there was already a size you used.
Really cool video, What program do you use to configure the screw holes in your plate? I am currently working on a plate for my board which only has fp3 plates available. I really want to try a more flexible plate on this one.
My drawing is already finished, just need to finish up with the screw holes and I can place my order.
Thank you so much in advance!
Have the same question and want to know which software too!
Shapr3D
Wait, ain't tolerances and materials the most important part?
That last section was so smootly done! I'm using freecad and I don't know if it's a skill issue, or if shapr3d is really that better. I want to try it but the free tier of shapr3d looks ass :/
Free tier is the same as the full version except you can only have 2 projects and less export options.
what about choc-switches? there are only mx ones in the tool
MX and Choc use the same 14x14mm cutout. The only difference is that MX clips in to a 1.5mm thick plate but Choc needs 1.2mm.
@@joe_scotto nice, thank you!
would you be able to do a video with some slight guidelines on placing your MCU of choice?
Not really much to say about it. Really you just need to place it countersunk in the case and position a hole to match where the port is.
The only thing I change build to build really is the dimensions depending on the controller.
Which 3D modeling software are you using?
Shapr3D
What about the microcontroller? How do you go about securing it and cutting out the right shape?
Depends on the controller. For most boards I just measure the dimensions and hot glue it into a cutout with them. More recently though I’ve been using socket headers: czcams.com/video/Qkx9M-AzznE/video.html
Wont the 3mm printed plate prevent the switches from clicking into place? normally they click with a 1.5mm plate, right?
You’re correct, they won’t click in but the friction alone is enough to hold them.
im not sure if you mentioned it yet, but I am trying to make an alice keyboard or something generally similar to that which involves a gap/space. how would i set this up within the keyboard layout editor? thanks
It’s a pain in the ass simply put. You have to use anchor points and rotation to get everything set right. I do believe though that it has a preset for the Alice that you could then modify. That might make it a bit easier.
@@joe_scotto I was on the mechkeys discord and got some formats that I've been able to use. I'm currently about to add the screw holes to the plate if I can figure it out, its my first time using fusion 360 so I'm having a bit of trouble. What software were you using?
I use Shapr3D on iPad :)
@@joe_scotto how do you get it from the ipad to the printer or computer?
@@joe_scotto another question I had was, if the stabilizers are plate mounted and there is no pcb, what is preventing them from just falling out of the bottom? are they close enough to hit the bottom of the case?
Do you know any solutions for handwired 2u stabilized keys on a 3mm acrylic plate?
You could possibly glue it into the plate but the issue then would most likely be binding of the wire. The only other possible option I could see is maybe cutting out a rectangle from the 3mm plate and then trying to fit a 1.5mm thick portion in there with glue.
The real best option IMO is just printing the plate if at all possible because then both of those issues won't exist anymore since it's basically a "hybrid" thickness plate.
Don't you also pull in the plate holes to sink the screws in? Otherwise, they'll sit on top of the plate's surface.
Nope. It doesn’t matter for the plate, there is enough clearance and it’s measured so the screw has enough length without the countersinks.
Hey, I've tried looking around before asking, but how do you have Keyboard layout editor in dark mode?
It’s a browser extension called “Dark Reader”
nice
Do you really pay $25 for Shapr? Is it really worht it? Tried the basisc and tutorial and it feels like a great step up from Sketchup to get me closer to Fusion 360... Just not sure I can front that cash every month on a program I'd use pretty infrequently.
I think it’s very worth it, I’ve tried fusion 360 and the performance is terrible on my Mac. Shapr3D is very intuitive to use which is what I love about it.
If you happen to be a student, they have a discount that will give it to you free.
@@joe_scotto that's why I liked SketchUp when I first started using it all those years ago.
I would prefer something with constraints and sketches over SketchUp. It's getting old now. My van build 3d model is way too complex now for SketchUp to be fun..
Thanks for the reply. I love the fast paced tutorial that assumed I'm smart enough to figure the rest out.
What modelling software is this?
Shapr3D on iPad
You said there are issues with laser cutting Cherry MX/Alps, but you never specified what they are.
I don't remember what I said in the video but there shouldn't be an issue laser cutting MX/Alps. However, there is an issue 3D printing MX/Alps cutouts and that is that if you do the standard 1.5mm thick plate, it will be really flexible on a 3D print. To negate that issue, I print my plates at 3mm and use either 1.5mm thick recessed areas to help clip them in or just rely on friction.
@@joe_scotto Thanks. It makes sense. I'm looking at options for creating a custom keyboard. Currently, I am considering SLA or FDM for the case, but I'm concerned it might be too large or too expensive to print using an online service. I'm going for a 60 to 65% form factor.
Btw, if 1.5mm is too flexible for a 3D printed tape, you might be able to epoxy small ridged metal bars horizontally across the plate in rows. It can also serve as ground bus bars to reduce the wiring. It's unclear, however, if there's enough clearance where you'll need them. Copper tape is another option and can be soldered onto, however, it won't add much rigidity to the plate.
what software do u use for the 3d
Shapr3D
Make a POS KEYBOARD For multi Language typing Together and upload the whole tutorial video
Sub ! love your content
What was the 3d software?
www.shapr3d.com
Hi @@joe_scotto nice video, do you use the pro version or the free one is sufficient?
Nice job, keep doing pls haha
in my dream, as of now i only made my case from plastic box then cut out all the key holes
Haha, true DIY!
Instructions unclear. Built a Casio electronic piano.
> Keyboard design done easy
> dosn't talk about the pcb bc it's a handwired mess
“How to design mechanical keyboard PLATES AND CASES”
@@joe_scotto yeah thats the title which was too long for being entirely readable on my device before clicking on it. the thumbnail simply states "designing keyboards is easy". but dw i dont blame you for clickbait or anything you did talk about what you state in the title, i simply had wrong expectations
Cool, but we should use freedom units instead. It got us to the moon.
Who does millimeter anymore? It is the dumbest thing ever.
Could you just send the plate design to get cnc'd?
Hii bro I need help are you on discord?
Yeah, I'm not too active during the week but there is a large community that can likely help you out: discord.gg/vN6X3z8eyv
ty for de vídeo bro
No problem :)