Very cool! I have these brackets for a centrifugal tumbler. The bolts go in and out multiple times a day. Eventually they strip out , which it did. And I have eight brackets with 2 bolts each. I believe this is exactly what I need!! Thank you for the video!!
Thanks for this video. I have a 2005 yz125 in rebuilding and while I have the cases apart I’m repairing the stripped bolt. My dad says to helicoil it but I’m looking for the best possible solution and this looks pretty damn good
This is a really repair but it's also expensive. A good heli-coil job will do the trick also. There is also another called E-Z lok which is very good as well.
I did my first one on a small Honda Motorcycle and it worked great. However I pulled a sidecover which exposed the backside of the new threads and I found A LOT of shavings in the case mixed with my grease. And I drilled a hole through a oil filter screen that was a half inch from the case. So at least flush out the cases before adding oil. Thanks for the video.
Absolutely, a lot of shavings can be made and always have to be cautious about what's on the other side. I did this on a RMZ250 and had to do a lot of flushing to be comfortable.
@@rancel3198 I flushed it until I couldn't see any shavings coming out. You can use kerosene and strain it after each flush with a paint filter so you just keep using it over and over until it's good.
On timeserts website it says, “if using for drain bolt use kit 1215C” rather than kit 1215. Is 1215C the one I should purchase? Or is 1215 the way to go? Thanks!
Whats the advantage of a timesert over a helicoil? I stripped one of the drain plugs on my ktm 200, and from now on only plan on using the left side plug with magnet
A time-sert locks into place and is more of a permanent fix for a bolt that will be in and out repeatedly. A helicoil is great for a thread fix for a bolt that stays in place.
I bought a vstar 650 with a stripped drain i took it to 2 different shops and they said there was nothing they could do cause there was no more threads do you think this will work or should I just try swapping the engine
As long as you can get the first tap in this will work. If you can't have a good tig welder weld a nut on there, no reason you need to replace the engine for a stripped drain bolt, there are several options. If there is enough room inside the hole go to a car oil change shop and ask for a stripped drain plug rubber plug insert. They strip drain plugs all the time!
On my 13’ crf250r has a weep hole a 1/4” up coming from the side so a time sert would block off that weep hole anyone have any other options? Or helicoil my best bet?
What was the original size of the bolt? Are you supposed to go up a size. I have a oil pan that uses a m14x1.50 bolt but it the pan itself is stripped. Please help
You don't go up a size. You would get it for the stock size M14X1.50 the drill size and tap will be slightly larger to clean out the stripped threads and make room for the Time-sert.
I have a 2022 yz250x with a stripped drain bolt. Thinking about using the time-sert. I really don’t want to split the halves if I don’t absolutely need to. Do you think I could install the time-sert and once it’s installed, flush it out from the clutch side like you mentioned in the video?
@@TepcoCycleRepairthanks for the speedy reply. My drain bolt is a m12x1.5x15.5mm I’m concerned with the length of the thread replacement itself. On time-serts website they offer 13.5mm and 16.2mm long. I’m wondering if you could shine some light on which one I should go with.
@@matthewhargroder7187 Ok so your drain bolt may be Long than the case thickness, in any case the end of the time-sert needs to lock into place so i would go with the shorter option. If it's longer than the case it won't be able to secure itself as intended.
i appreciate the awesome tutorial i recently stripped my oil drain threads on my bike and its been really frustrating but after seeing your vid im gonna by this kit and fix it. BTW i have 2 questions 1 being does this drill out a whole and then inserts the original size of the plug back into the pan. and 2 would be if you were to say how much toque these fittings can take rather then my dogshit 18 ftlb drain plug that i stripped out....anyways thank you so much and i hope to get a reply.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thanks for the confirmation. I have 2 last questions what drill did you use for this bits and I saw that you used a t handle to insert the tap and the time sirt threads. Instead of that t handle can I just use a socket wrench instead?
@@mranonymous7713 The drill bilmis a special bit that comes with the kit, you have to use that drill bit. It has a recess for the timesert to sit in. As far as the tap, whatever you have to send it in straight.
@@TepcoCycleRepair ayyy I just got the money to buy the kit and I saw you reply to someone the other day about getting shaving in the pan which doesn’t sound good at all so I’m just wondering if I can just flush out all the shavings by just running a gallon or two through the fill cap. That’s a good way I’ll use as much oil as needed to save my components from getting destroyed, and I’ll even do a heat short heat cycle and drain it and replace the filter after. Just tell me if I’m being overkill or what you recommend in the case of getting shavings in the pan
@@mranonymous7713 So there is a couple things you can do to reduce the amount of shavings. Put grease on your bits and taps to catch as much as you can. When you are done flush it with kerosene, you can drain it through a paint strainer and reuse it until nothing comes out. Then new filter/oil heat cycle and drain. Remember it's aluminum shavings they are soft and if you miss one or two they will get chewed up and stick to the filter. Get the right size kit they come in different lengths.
You go by the original bolt size, then length based on the wall thickness. Are you talking about the check bolt hole? I don't know of a drain bolt on the right side. I would use a helicoil for the check bolt.
@@TepcoCycleRepair so on the new 125s there is a the drain plug on the left side(non clutch side) with the magnetic bolt plug then on the left there is another plug, when you change the oil do you only change one?
@@coltandent4599 Usually only the left. Unless they made a change I'm not familiar with a right side plug. I haven't worked on a 22 but have access to a few I'll check it out, thanks for the heads up.
Rough way to drill out the thread. The way shown is DIY. There is no guarantee that ALL the debris is flushed out.The sump should be separated from the crank-case.
You are correct but this would require a complete engine tear down and case split because there is no sump. This is a two-stroke so this drain plug is only for the gearbox not for the actual engine/crank.
@@TepcoCycleRepair now I can sleep I thought I was being scammed lol! Just gotta wait 8 weeks for it to arrive from China for them to change it for me 😞
Strongly agree on the Time-Sert and if you want even more rotation resistance keyed inserts are available.
Great video. Just got an 04 RMZ250 cheap because it had some issues. Just realized the oil drain plug hole is stripped. I need to do this.
Thanks really helpful! Going through the same.
Very cool! I have these brackets for a centrifugal tumbler. The bolts go in and out multiple times a day. Eventually they strip out , which it did. And I have eight brackets with 2 bolts each. I believe this is exactly what I need!!
Thank you for the video!!
Yes, these should work good for that.
@@TepcoCycleRepair sometimes things just work out the way it should! We were gonna helicoil it next week ! Thanks again!
that is nice , i already bought one , never used it , maybe one day
Thanks for this video. I have a 2005 yz125 in rebuilding and while I have the cases apart I’m repairing the stripped bolt. My dad says to helicoil it but I’m looking for the best possible solution and this looks pretty damn good
This is a really repair but it's also expensive. A good heli-coil job will do the trick also. There is also another called E-Z lok which is very good as well.
Heli coil sucks on the oil drain plug it’s hard getting all the oil out when u need a oil change
I did my first one on a small Honda Motorcycle and it worked great. However I pulled a sidecover which exposed the backside of the new threads and I found A LOT of shavings in the case mixed with my grease. And I drilled a hole through a oil filter screen that was a half inch from the case. So at least flush out the cases before adding oil. Thanks for the video.
Absolutely, a lot of shavings can be made and always have to be cautious about what's on the other side. I did this on a RMZ250 and had to do a lot of flushing to be comfortable.
@@TepcoCycleRepair how many times do you flush the engine?
@@rancel3198 I flushed it until I couldn't see any shavings coming out. You can use kerosene and strain it after each flush with a paint filter so you just keep using it over and over until it's good.
Nice video. FYI the "recess/step" in the "top part" you cut starting at 3:30 is called a "counterbore."
Thanks for the info, it works awesome!
my oil screen thread is stripped (M20 x 1.5), would I need to take the engine off the chassis?
Are you buy any chance in the Tri-State area? I need this done on my bike.
great vid! thank you! any idea of size for 2019 Honda CRF 450L?
Timeserts are definitely the better choice but if you don't already have a kit they are expensive that's why most people go for the heli core
They are definitely more expensive than a helicoil.
What torque are you using with bolt now?? Just tight or still following ft lb specs?
Standard torque settings.
Thank you so much! Do we need remove hole engine for this? I got same problem today but inside oil filter bolt under the engine
Not as long as you can get to the hole straight on and flush it afterwards.
@@TepcoCycleRepair aaawh thank you. It was good news ❤🙏🏼 have great day buddy!
Another great vid, thanks! For DR650 would it be M14x1.25?
Yes that's the correct size. 14mm x 1.25. Thanks for the comment!
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thank you!
What size drill bit was used? Thanks in advance
One year too late. Drill bit is specific to that kit. Not just a standard bit.
On timeserts website it says, “if using for drain bolt use kit 1215C” rather than kit 1215. Is 1215C the one I should purchase? Or is 1215 the way to go? Thanks!
The C comes with a tap guide to be sure it stays straight to prevent leaks.
@@TepcoCycleRepair awesome, thanks for the video! Made me feel comfortable enough to save some cash and not go to a shop with it.
Whats the advantage of a timesert over a helicoil? I stripped one of the drain plugs on my ktm 200, and from now on only plan on using the left side plug with magnet
A time-sert locks into place and is more of a permanent fix for a bolt that will be in and out repeatedly. A helicoil is great for a thread fix for a bolt that stays in place.
I bought a vstar 650 with a stripped drain i took it to 2 different shops and they said there was nothing they could do cause there was no more threads do you think this will work or should I just try swapping the engine
As long as you can get the first tap in this will work. If you can't have a good tig welder weld a nut on there, no reason you need to replace the engine for a stripped drain bolt, there are several options. If there is enough room inside the hole go to a car oil change shop and ask for a stripped drain plug rubber plug insert. They strip drain plugs all the time!
On my 13’ crf250r has a weep hole a 1/4” up coming from the side so a time sert would block off that weep hole anyone have any other options? Or helicoil my best bet?
what did you end up using?
What was the original size of the bolt? Are you supposed to go up a size. I have a oil pan that uses a m14x1.50 bolt but it the pan itself is stripped. Please help
You don't go up a size. You would get it for the stock size M14X1.50 the drill size and tap will be slightly larger to clean out the stripped threads and make room for the Time-sert.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thanks man. Appreciate it
Thankyou guys
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thank you! This was my question as well. My original size was M14 X 1.5 so I would use the TST-1415C kit. Thanks again.
I have a 2022 yz250x with a stripped drain bolt. Thinking about using the time-sert.
I really don’t want to split the halves if I don’t absolutely need to. Do you think I could install the time-sert and once it’s installed, flush it out from the clutch side like you mentioned in the video?
Yes, I did it on a 2009 RMZ250 flushed the heck out of it and it was just fine. Grease the taps to try to catch as much as you can then flush it out.
@@TepcoCycleRepairthanks for the speedy reply. My drain bolt is a m12x1.5x15.5mm
I’m concerned with the length of the thread replacement itself. On time-serts website they offer 13.5mm and 16.2mm long. I’m wondering if you could shine some light on which one I should go with.
@@matthewhargroder7187 Ok so your drain bolt may be Long than the case thickness, in any case the end of the time-sert needs to lock into place so i would go with the shorter option. If it's longer than the case it won't be able to secure itself as intended.
i appreciate the awesome tutorial i recently stripped my oil drain threads on my bike and its been really frustrating but after seeing your vid im gonna by this kit and fix it. BTW i have 2 questions 1 being does this drill out a whole and then inserts the original size of the plug back into the pan. and 2 would be if you were to say how much toque these fittings can take rather then my dogshit 18 ftlb drain plug that i stripped out....anyways thank you so much and i hope to get a reply.
Yes it will bring it back to the standard size and it will be stronger than your stock threads. Normal torque will be no issue.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thanks for the confirmation. I have 2 last questions what drill did you use for this bits and I saw that you used a t handle to insert the tap and the time sirt threads. Instead of that t handle can I just use a socket wrench instead?
@@mranonymous7713 The drill bilmis a special bit that comes with the kit, you have to use that drill bit. It has a recess for the timesert to sit in. As far as the tap, whatever you have to send it in straight.
@@TepcoCycleRepair ayyy I just got the money to buy the kit and I saw you reply to someone the other day about getting shaving in the pan which doesn’t sound good at all so I’m just wondering if I can just flush out all the shavings by just running a gallon or two through the fill cap. That’s a good way I’ll use as much oil as needed to save my components from getting destroyed, and I’ll even do a heat short heat cycle and drain it and replace the filter after. Just tell me if I’m being overkill or what you recommend in the case of getting shavings in the pan
@@mranonymous7713 So there is a couple things you can do to reduce the amount of shavings. Put grease on your bits and taps to catch as much as you can. When you are done flush it with kerosene, you can drain it through a paint strainer and reuse it until nothing comes out. Then new filter/oil heat cycle and drain. Remember it's aluminum shavings they are soft and if you miss one or two they will get chewed up and stick to the filter. Get the right size kit they come in different lengths.
Would this fix work on a 06 Honda foreman 500?
As long as you can get straight at the plug I don't see why not.
how do i know which kit i need? My stock drain plug in m10 x 1.5mm. do i get that kit?
Yes, you get the kit for the size bolt you will be using. They also make a deep or shallow, get the shallow for a drain plug.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thanks!
How do you know which size kit to get I need one for a 2022 ktm 125sx clutch side oil drain hole?
You go by the original bolt size, then length based on the wall thickness. Are you talking about the check bolt hole? I don't know of a drain bolt on the right side. I would use a helicoil for the check bolt.
@@TepcoCycleRepair so on the new 125s there is a the drain plug on the left side(non clutch side) with the magnetic bolt plug then on the left there is another plug, when you change the oil do you only change one?
@@coltandent4599 Usually only the left. Unless they made a change I'm not familiar with a right side plug. I haven't worked on a 22 but have access to a few I'll check it out, thanks for the heads up.
@@TepcoCycleRepair it sounds like the check bolt, my YZs have them
@@donalddonaldson7211 The KTM check bolt is on the right side, strips like it was made of butter.
It's called a countersink tool.
Yes, that's it thanks!
NO, it's counterbore....countersink has a taper at the top!
Do u have to sell
No I don't, I just got what I needed from a fellow mechanic.
Rough way to drill out the thread. The way shown is DIY. There is no guarantee that ALL the debris is flushed out.The sump should be separated from the crank-case.
You are correct but this would require a complete engine tear down and case split because there is no sump. This is a two-stroke so this drain plug is only for the gearbox not for the actual engine/crank.
If ur tap and die why not just use new bolt
This brings it back to the stock size and is stronger than stock.
All good...but $115 for that tool kit doesn't make sense...
Yes it's expensive, find someone that has the kit and borrow it for the day.
@@TepcoCycleRepair $115 is a deal! 400 bucks in BC. I've got a stripped SP thread on a ct90. I'll probably take the head to a shop.
I’m being charged £600 for a new oil pan because I stripped it, Am i being ripped off?
Well it's part of the case not just an oil pan so not bad.
@@TepcoCycleRepair now I can sleep I thought I was being scammed lol! Just gotta wait 8 weeks for it to arrive from China for them to change it for me 😞
@@Lynchy87 From China? What kind of bike is it?
@@TepcoCycleRepair its a Sym Orbit 125 Euro 5
@@Lynchy87man that a waste of time you find these kits every where I broke mine yesterday and got fixed in 3days Amazon even has it
Mate you pay for wot you get in my eyes. heli coils always fail these are one time fix
After watching you drill I lost all faith in you.
Lol, yeah that looked rough with the dead battery. No worries I was watching it closely, it's still holding strong!
@@TepcoCycleRepair I try the link they dont have any right now ...my plug is slack I wrapped it with thread tape but it's not tight