Great video. So much more information than what actually comes with the kit itself. Thanks for making and posting this. I installed one of these kits on my mostly stock 57 Chevy 210 and they work great. Original rims, original spindles, and original offset and ride height. I had upgraded to power brakes years ago with a booster, drum/drum prop valve and DMC, so adding these front disc brakes was a breeze. I just had to swap out the prop valve and DMC for a disc/drum setup. The video says that the nuts are self sealing and he puts them on as-is. I’m sure this is just fine, but since I’m a paranoid over thinker, I used blue thread lock and Grade 8 lock washers on the steering arm bolts (they are the steering arms, after all). Also, I didn’t remove the steering linkage from the steering arm. If both front wheels are off the ground, everything moves easily. On the two bolts for the caliper bracket, I used blue thread lock, a Grade 8 lock washer, and one 1.5 inch Grade 8 washer on EACH bolt. The washer was put on the backside of the spindle and overlaps the spindle, thereby sandwiching the main caliper bracket and spindle between two pieces of metal. Hopefully that made sense. If not, just dry fit it and you’ll understand what I mean. Probably overkill, but it doesn’t interfere with anything so I did it for extra peace of mind. Lastly, the brake line seemed a touch short and was pretty close to the upper control arm and looked like it would make contact. I wrapped some heat shield tape around the center area of the line to prevent any rubbing from damaging the line. Again, might be overkill, but once you have your brakes fail in your old car, it’s a thought that never leaves you. Great kit and very easy to install, even for an amateur such as myself.
Francisco, I got my kit from abspowerbrake.com It was kit #307 on Page 7 of their online catalog. It was for stock height and stock 14” rims with zero offset. They have different combo sets, depending on what you need. I just did the front and left the rear as drums.
Haha, I was watching to hear your opinion on how much tension you prefer on the spindle nut and the process you recommend. On my car, I feel like I have two options, too loose or too tight.
I converted my 70 Chevelle to power disc brakes. I discovered that my 14 inch wheels did not work because the calipers rubbed and I had to get 15 in wheels. Question: Using this kit, can use the original spindles? Some kits extends out the wheels by 2 inches, does this kit do the same? Can I use the original wheels, are the calipers small enough so they do not rub? If so, this would be a lot easier. Thanks
Great Video Really helped me on doing my 57. Thanks for your time and Expertise!
Great video, Im getting close to do this project on my 57 Bel Air and this was very helpful to see what to expect
Been thinking about doing an upgrade on my 56, thank you for the video.
Great video. So much more information than what actually comes with the kit itself. Thanks for making and posting this.
I installed one of these kits on my mostly stock 57 Chevy 210 and they work great. Original rims, original spindles, and original offset and ride height. I had upgraded to power brakes years ago with a booster, drum/drum prop valve and DMC, so adding these front disc brakes was a breeze. I just had to swap out the prop valve and DMC for a disc/drum setup.
The video says that the nuts are self sealing and he puts them on as-is. I’m sure this is just fine, but since I’m a paranoid over thinker, I used blue thread lock and Grade 8 lock washers on the steering arm bolts (they are the steering arms, after all). Also, I didn’t remove the steering linkage from the steering arm. If both front wheels are off the ground, everything moves easily.
On the two bolts for the caliper bracket, I used blue thread lock, a Grade 8 lock washer, and one 1.5 inch Grade 8 washer on EACH bolt. The washer was put on the backside of the spindle and overlaps the spindle, thereby sandwiching the main caliper bracket and spindle between two pieces of metal. Hopefully that made sense. If not, just dry fit it and you’ll understand what I mean. Probably overkill, but it doesn’t interfere with anything so I did it for extra peace of mind.
Lastly, the brake line seemed a touch short and was pretty close to the upper control arm and looked like it would make contact. I wrapped some heat shield tape around the center area of the line to prevent any rubbing from damaging the line. Again, might be overkill, but once you have your brakes fail in your old car, it’s a thought that never leaves you.
Great kit and very easy to install, even for an amateur such as myself.
Could you tell me what kit you used?
Francisco, I got my kit from abspowerbrake.com It was kit #307 on Page 7 of their online catalog. It was for stock height and stock 14” rims with zero offset. They have different combo sets, depending on what you need. I just did the front and left the rear as drums.
Haha, I was watching to hear your opinion on how much tension you prefer on the spindle nut and the process you recommend. On my car, I feel like I have two options, too loose or too tight.
Do you know what to ask for when getting new rotors and replacement pads?
Why didn't you use that top spindle bolt whole and what are the ramifications of not using it?
How do the bearing go?
No dust cap?
You can’t run a front sway bar if the calipers are mounted forward of the spindle.
I converted my 70 Chevelle to power disc brakes. I discovered that my 14 inch wheels did not work because the calipers rubbed and I had to get 15 in wheels.
Question:
Using this kit, can use the original spindles?
Some kits extends out the wheels by 2 inches, does this kit do the same?
Can I use the original wheels, are the calipers small enough so they do not rub?
If so, this would be a lot easier.
Thanks
This is zero offset and can use 14" rims.
@@56Daleo Thank you for the information