Controlling BIG Hooking Backends -
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- čas přidán 9. 05. 2021
- It's #MoMonday!
Today, Phil discusses what you can do when the backends are hooking a ton and are difficult to control.
As always, if you have questions or comments, leave them below and you just might see it featured in a future episode!
#WOWThatsRadical - Sport
How about changing hand positions more forward roll less axis rotation?
Practice shooting 10 pins with the most aggressive ball in your arsenal. 500 grit big hooking asymm.
Practice until you can consistently roll the ball in a perfectly straight line. Modify this hand position slightly for booming backends. Your spare game will probably improve as well.
Even as a two hander?
@@owenoupasensack2240 Sure, why not?.
@@byronfranek2706 Oh boy.
or use a spare ball
how about a Mo Monday explaining what you touched on about Amateurs looking side to side and pros looking at the spot outside the tracers?
I'm so amateur I don't even know what a tracer is.
@@machinethesun9243 I think it’s those dark lines past the arrows. I think there’s 4 of them. I think most people call them range finders
@@justmakingthistoreply5085you would be correct..
One of best bowling videos ever. 💯
4:33 has changed my game. I tried to start looking at when my ball picked up to decide my moves on the lane, and it helped a lot. Jumped from an 184 average last year to 202 this year.
I remember Mark Baker sharing with us during a Camp Bakes session that all balls are designed to hook at 8. This video reminded me of that.
Great information Phil! I run into that issue a lot when playing on tougher patterns that get broken down by more advanced tournament players including some PBA cardholders. Guess I need to vary the surfaces of my Arsenal.
Other Option for Rev Dominant Bowlers with Over / Under Problems and too much back end... Upcoming from Radical Bowling "The Spy" ... (source, cranker on crap house shots, uses Black Widow Spare with Strong Layout)... I'm so crazy pumped for The Spy and seeing that Texture Performance Polyester Cover
Have short pin layouts on a couple of balls. Did well with them at the right time.
The last 40 seconds was worth the price of admission!! You just answered the question to the problem I've been chasing for years!! Thanks so much!!
would love to see a series where a bowling coach and pro shop work together to make the data you speak of in real time. i feel like a visualization of the ball reaction on all kinds of lane conditions would do wonders to educate the novice; not all of us get to bowl on prime conditions and have to second guess everything we do because time and money, but perhaps thats just a fantasy, bc pros are just going to bowl better because of physiological features that lead to consistent and strong bowling.
The Thursday Night Mens Leauge has this typical situation where I'm from. I will try either my Asym Solid or my Asym Pearl with the same layout. However I think I my still have to adjust the way I release my ball on to the lanes from either a higher or lower positon more cupped wrist or less cupped wrist and more or less up the back or around the ball.
Me trying my best to not get pissed off about the fact that EVERYONE who's ever told me anything about surfacing a ball
has always said it'll hook MORE and be MORE AGGRESSIVE after you've surfaced the ball. This guy however tells me the
exact opposite. That surfacing my ball will slow it down and make it not hook as much on the back end and that POLISH
will in fact make the ball hook more and become more aggressive? The knowledge of bowling is ALL OVER THE PLACE
and it drives me absolutely MAD! 😫
look at your ball like a tyre, a chunky tire works better on wet/muddy surfaces while a smooth racing slick grips better on dry smooth roads.
the smooth shiny ball will glide over the oily lane then when it hits the dry part the two dry materials will grip tightly and the ball will more aggressively hook. thus skid and then snap
meanwhile the rougher balls will cut through the oil to start gripping much sooner. but once they clear the oil, they wont have as much surface contact, and such wont turn as aggressively. so they'll look more like a continuous arc.
Not necessary hook more, but start hooking sooner.
@@MrOsmodeus that is a superb explanation!
It would be great to see Throw-Bot throw some balls demonstrating these changes. You already have a pin up and pin down of each ball. Surface changes could be done during the video.
Watch the Radical Conspiracy Black (check mark)vs Radical Bonus(Smooth and round).
I'm all about the big backend
Here is a suggestion for a future MoMonday: Radical drill sheets show the layout based on a 5" PAP and it says to adjust angles for other horizontal coordinates. How do you do this? My PAP is 4-1/2" over by 0 vertical. How would I adjust?
What about short flat flippy patterns like 36' Viper for very low rev bowlers? I am talking under 200 rpms.
A flood in the first 36 feet where ball does not hook at all, then once it exits the oil it takes off out of control.
For me at 145 rpms, a 1/4 board miss results in about 6-8 inches of miss at the pins.
A one board miss right will washout and a one board miss left will go through the nose and split.
How do I get a ball to not do that with my low rev rate?
I have tried tons of surface and all that does is make the ball take off even more severely once it exits the oil.
I have tried polish and all this does is reduce my miss room in the oil.
Urethane is not really meant for broken down lanes, with few exceptions, as Urethane hooks early and is tame in the backend. Urethane is really good on some fresh conditions when the shot is toward the outside part of the lane.
For me personally, when the lanes are fried side to side and in the back, I migrate deeper into the lane with either a weak (symmetric) hybrid or sometimes a weak pearl, as these type of balls get good length, don't overreact when they hit dry, but still provide the necessary punch to get thru the sticks properly.
The brunswick twist is my ball of choice for those kind of conditions.
what do you consider low diff and high diff
I love big back ends
😂 everyone does. Gotta know how to handle em tho
What about Axis Rotation and Tilt?
There is options. Move further out and throw faster
I use different hand positions and adjust axis rotation as well.
I LOVE how smart these guys are, but am I also the only one that wants to see them also DEMONSTRATE what they’re talking about, cause talk is cheap and easy? I’m a 100% disabled and handicap Army combat vet, but if a bowling Mr Miyagi coach wants to talk and teach me and I always want to learn, I want to see them DO IT too. My Miyagi didn’t only teach as a sensei, but his old ass demonstrated and beat up Terry Silver and John Kreese by his self!
I would think textured polyester would be the way to go.
I always go to my big solids and move in when it gets over/under
One would think they would burn up and leave corner pins for days.
@@user-wh6sp6st8s Not if you get in the oil
@@joepic85 that’s what i did all thru high school season, sand my big ball to 1000, get in the oil, slow my ball down and camp out there. only have to move like 3 boards the whole day and dried the fronts up for everyone else
@@joespagnola9253 , what speed?
@@machinethesun9243 like 17-16 off my hand and the ball slows down to like 15-16 when it hits the pins
I couldn't get the bal to hook, I haven't bowled in YEARS I lost my ball.
When are we gonna see the spy
Question for next momonday.
Do you literally mean change surface (with a pad) or change surface by taking another bowling ball because last momonday you said we should not change the factory surface?
I believe last week he was saying not to change the surface before you ever thrown the ball. He recommended only changing surface after a fee games if you still did not like the reaction
@@garrettfussell1724 you are absolutely right but still. Then you ran into today's topic in league and change surface and you are forever gone from factory finish, a surface you might like. I don't think this topic suits happy amateurs they might get confused and make really bad decisions without knowing it.
@@MNohrLarsen you can always restore ur ball to factory finish. it’ll usually say on the box you get what the finish is. like for the purple hammer i’m pretty sure it’s 500, then 1000, then 2000. if you just do that it’ll give you pretty much the same thing as factory finish.
the factory surface is going to change whether you like it or not. throwing the ball on the lane will naturally give it lane shine anyways. if the pros can do it, you can do it as well, trust me
watch the whole vid it will save looking like you did not watch the whole vid....
@@jimnewton5904 i did watch the whole video and answered comments from people kind enough to help me out. I might have missed something, thats absolutely a possibility. But tell me. Why such a harsh comment on such an old video? That's not what I'm use to in the bowling community. Anyway, thanks for the advice and have a lovely day.
More people hate resin and urethane balls than you will ever know. In about 1960 there were something like 80 million league bowlers in the USA. A perfect game actually meant something back then. The record for three game set was 886 and it looked like it would stand forever. I learned to bowl with a rubber ball and struggled when urethane came along. After I figured out urethane then they came along with resin and I had to learn all over again. A lot of people who learned to bowl in the 1960's are still alive today. I'd like to see Legacy Leagues for people like me who don't like inflated scores and having to lug 6-8 balls to a handicap league. My idea of a Legacy League would be a lightly oiled pattern about 38 feet, and only rubber and plastic balls allowed. That way if you missed six boards left you would knock down three pins instead of getting a strike you didn't earn.
Phil, you simply don't like urethane?
cant blame him, it ruin the game
@@grandmasteryoda9893 Vice Versa for Traditionalist Bowlers that they don’t like Reactive. I never like these kind of Bowlers that kept yelling making the game traditional, they should be dead if they like the old days than the nowadays. To me I like both Reactive and Urethane.
@@grandmasteryoda9893 Urethane did not ruin the game.
There have been all types of balls over the years, rubber, plastic, urethane, resin, MicroCell and who knows what is coming next.
The goal of a Pro is to knock down the most pins. If urethane will do that better on a pattern, then use urethane.
Resin balls have definitely made the game "much easier" for most people that bowl on house shots.
They hit very hard, recover from crappy throws and have produced the most 300 games in history since their introduction.
Resin has greatly protected the league bowler and boosted their average.
Using urethane on house shots for most league bowlers is far too hard to do.
It does not protect them from their inconsistency, does not carry unless the ball is placed properly and is hard to use efficiently.
Urethane should not be banned, it's just another club in your golf bag.
@@nordattack you forget carry down can ruin the game
@@grandmasteryoda9893
The fears of carrydown are highly exaggerated.
I never see it in league if only one or two or even three players are using urethane.
The greater danger is lane burn caused by resin balls sucking all the oil off the lane.
That is what happens in league and it is much more terrible than any carrydown.
I bowl in a sport league and my whole team uses urethane. Never a single issue with carrydown as the resin players just burn it off.
If you can't keep up with the trend then it's time to change to another kind of sport.
Ah urethane... never heard of it.... never used it...
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*Looking at my average " ~210 on sportshots
Just use urethane 🎳 😁
Meh, sounds Greek to me!!!!!!!!!
That’s because he said your gonna get the same kind of reaction after every adjustment he said you can make. I don’t understand how he even answered his own question on how to control this 😂😂
This was a waste of time