Nice work I have the same equipment (Sioux) in my shop. I needed the brush up. I have the knurl tool and reamer. Nothing wrong with it also the rifle groove aids in lubrication.
Loved this vid. Brought back memories of high school shop,, doing my '69 429 heads. There is a Sioux machine here for sale with the attachments for $225...is that a decent price? Love your vid man! Thanks!
Wonder what I'm doing wrong. I have a sioux and the same pink stones. As soon as the stone touches the seat it gets a groove in it. On a Ford flathead. I believe it has factory hardened seats. Maybe that's the problem?
Been awhile since I did this stuff but I think I used to use gray stones for roughing them in, then go back and finish with the ruby stones. The Goodson catalog should explain the different types of stones.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage Hardened seats are rough on stones in general, if the seats are badly pitted you may need an actual seat cutter. Rides on the same pilot but has cutting edges on it like a reamer. If your block has seat inserts you have plenty of hardened material but if not, be aware that it will likely only be induction hardened. On those you only have .020 or so of a hardened surface and you may end up cutting through it before the seat is cleaned up. So just go slow and careful
I'm curious about the linkage setup you have on you 200 ford. I have an 80 capri built motor with an offi triple intake but the linkage is shot. any info would be much appreciated
I built the one for my tri-power. It's just 1/4" rod with heim joints threaded on. The end carbs are linked together 1 to 1. The center carb has a slip joint connecting it to one of the outer carbs. For the first 1/3 of throttle travel the rod freely slides into a bigger piece of aluminum rod, at that point it bottoms out and starts pushing on the other end that's connected to the outer carb. On the outer carb, the linkage from the center carb is attached closer to the center of the throttle shaft than the linkage attaching it to the other outer carb. That way the outer carbs open faster than the center one, so it's progressive but you still get full throttle on all 3 carbs at once.
The way I learned and did for years and years. Thanks for bringing me back almost 50 years
Nice work I have the same equipment (Sioux) in my shop. I needed the brush up. I have the knurl tool and reamer. Nothing wrong with it also the rifle groove aids in lubrication.
Nicely done Bud!! Well explained!!☺
Thanks Roadking!! I appreciate you watching!
Thanks guy very good video!!
Nice job Pal.
Thanks!
Very good thank you you splain and show hands on
Loved this vid. Brought back memories of high school shop,, doing my '69 429 heads. There is a Sioux machine here for sale with the attachments for $225...is that a decent price? Love your vid man! Thanks!
Surely that cylinder in the background must be honed by now? :)
LOL I must have been doing my laundry during the video, that's my 1926 Maytag wringer washer making the racket!
Cool!
You mentioned building a 260 using 302 crank and rods. Are you going to video that build here? It's one I'm interested in myself.
Where valve grinder from?
Wonder what I'm doing wrong. I have a sioux and the same pink stones. As soon as the stone touches the seat it gets a groove in it. On a Ford flathead. I believe it has factory hardened seats. Maybe that's the problem?
Been awhile since I did this stuff but I think I used to use gray stones for roughing them in, then go back and finish with the ruby stones. The Goodson catalog should explain the different types of stones.
@@SuperKONR THANKS! I'll check it out.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage Hardened seats are rough on stones in general, if the seats are badly pitted you may need an actual seat cutter. Rides on the same pilot but has cutting edges on it like a reamer. If your block has seat inserts you have plenty of hardened material but if not, be aware that it will likely only be induction hardened. On those you only have .020 or so of a hardened surface and you may end up cutting through it before the seat is cleaned up. So just go slow and careful
@@SuperKONR Thanks, I have been slowly building up a collection of Neway cutters as $ allows.
Great video! Love this stuff. What car did the heads go on?
They were to a Pontiac 350 that I put in a fox body Mustang, I think I have some videos posted of driving it.
@@SuperKONR heck yeah man. I watched a few of the videos.
Is that a Logan Lathe in the background?
1943 Logan 850
You could knurl and reem the guides.
That works for a little while, just not the best solution in my opinion. I've heard of people knurling pistons too back in the flathead days... Thanks
I'm curious about the linkage setup you have on you 200 ford. I have an 80 capri built motor with an offi triple intake but the linkage is shot. any info would be much appreciated
I built the one for my tri-power. It's just 1/4" rod with heim joints threaded on. The end carbs are linked together 1 to 1. The center carb has a slip joint connecting it to one of the outer carbs. For the first 1/3 of throttle travel the rod freely slides into a bigger piece of aluminum rod, at that point it bottoms out and starts pushing on the other end that's connected to the outer carb. On the outer carb, the linkage from the center carb is attached closer to the center of the throttle shaft than the linkage attaching it to the other outer carb. That way the outer carbs open faster than the center one, so it's progressive but you still get full throttle on all 3 carbs at once.
Hey man is there anyway to DM you, I have a ton of questions on how to use some equipment I inherited!
superkonr@juno.com
I have that same valve grinder for a wall hanger but to heavy