How To Use Grain Fillers - Finishing 101 Series
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2017
- To achieve a smooth and mirror like finish on open grained woods, you should use a grain filler. In this video I show you how to use the grain filler from Aqua Coat.
- Sand the surface to 150 grit using my orbital sander
- Apply a seal coat of dewaxed shellac to two of the 3 sample boards
- Apply stain/dye to the third sample board. When the stain/dye dries, apply a coat of dewaxed shellac.
- Using a plastic spreader, apply a very thin coat of Aqua Coat grain filler, wiping off the excess across the grain. Let it dry for 45 minutes to an hour.
- After the first coat of grain filler dries, sand the surface with 320 grit sandpaper.
- Apply 2 more coats of grain filler the same way as described above and let it dry.
- Apply your top coat of choice.
This video is sponsored by Aqua Coat.
Products used in this video (Affiliate links):
Aqua Coat Clear Grain Filler: amzn.to/2x8Yip7
General Finishes Arm-r-seal: amzn.to/2gEH4VR
Festool Orbital Sander: amzn.to/2vJbGzU
Dewaxed Shellac: amzn.to/2wEcEfS
320 Grit Sandpaper: amzn.to/2gECzdP
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Sean Walker
PO Box 1502
Versailles, KY 40383 - Jak na to + styl
I used your demo to use the grain filler on my first oak table. After 2 coats, it looking great already. Super helpful video, thanks.
So far, this is the best video that I've found on filling those pores and other grain imperfections on my Zebrano wood surfaces. I have tried so many methods before such as catalyzed polyurethane to create a surface thick and hard enough as to eventually reach a mirror-like finish and to a certain extent, it works, but then I had to deal with bubbles on the catalyzed thick layer of polyurethane.
So for clarification,
1) Sand first with 150 Grit
2) Apply Stain and remove excess
3) Apply Shellac
4) Apply Pore filler and wipe down excess
5) Sand with 320 Grit
6) Repeat Pore filler application 2 or 3 more times and Sand again.
Question: What happens if I skip step 3) shellac and go straight to step 4), applying the Aqua coat wood grain pore filler material? (Thanks in advance!)
@Tony Kwok you get a rounded finish on the pores instead of sharp.
It creates a thick gloopie looking finish. The grain looses definition 😉
I've used this stuff for several years now without shellac and have a beautiful glass like finish on red oak. I use it over natural color stain. Really like it.
Wow! Those finishes look great! Thanks for the video Sean!
Thanks Donny!
Sean, as always, a top-notch video with lots of helpful information! Thanks!
Thanks Paul, I appreciate it!
Thanks for the info. I’m just trying to get into woodworking so this was really helpful. Great video!
Great tips amigo!
I like your layer system.
Really makes the grain look more beautiful.
You did a great job on your video. Very good presentation and easy to understand.
This is a very good video, Sean! I always appreciate a good video about finishing. I'll definitely make a shortcut to this video to keep it handy. Thanks!
Thank you for watching! Give it a try some time, I think you will like it.
Great looking finishes there Sean. I'm going to have to try that Aqua Coat out myself.
Thank you!
Hmmm. Never knew that was an option. I'll have to give that a shot. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Been looking at a lot of grain filler vids lately. Yours is definitely the best!
The best by far for us newbies. I need this basic level instruction first; I can try complex techniques after I master the basics. Great video!
Interesting what a difference that makes, especially on the painted piece. Good video!
Thanks Bruce!
This video is excellent! Thank you
For a painted surface I'm going the route of using Gyproc wall filler mixed thinner than normal applied with a 3inch blade, 220 grit sand then 2 coats of primer sprayed with a HVLP setup with 320 grit sanding between coats. Then 2 top coats. So far it turned out like your example. May even go with a 2K clearcoat for more durability. Will try this product next time I stain. Thanks.
Thanks. A very useful video!
Very very good content , thank you!
Timbermate from Australia...for me there's nothing better. Great video.....
Great stuff as always.
Thanks Todd!
Thanks for the video.
Good Job! A lot of good info.
Thanks!
Very informative video Sean, I will definitely consider this in the future.
Appreciate you watching.
Really helpful. Merci!
Sean, working with 1/2” Baltic birch plywood that I’ll eventually be UV printing on. Wondering if the water based filler would cause expansion and what you might recommend as steps. Thanks for this awesome video!
Amazing attention to detail here. Could I use this method to paint a guitar ?
Good advice...Good Video, Thanks
Appreciate it!
very great video
thank you . question please can you use that pore fill then use tung oil on it ?
Great video!!! Looks like it turned out great. One question, do you apply grain filler on the cabinet door only or on the cabinet boxes as well? Thanks for the tips again!!!
How would you recommend achieving a semi transparent finish on a guitar... almost solid color like but upon close close inspection one would be able to see the grain (closed poor/grain filled... not open grain). I have the color picked out for the gentleman painting my guitar and he is using a sort of polyurethane paint.
Question: I am doing a guitar body that is swamp ash. The plan is to sand, stain, then use Tru-Oil to protect and give it a nice shine that also tints/darkens slightly. I know I will be seeing pores, so when exactly should I apply the Aqua Coat? Once the Tru-Oil is on and fully cured? Before I put the Tru-Oil on? Thank you.
Can you do a video to fill the pores with Aquacoat, followed by staining to color matching the filled pores?
You can also use fine ground pumice stone, rubbed in with shellac or your thinned finish, almost like French polish.
I'm refinishing my Les Paul (electric guitar). I ordered both Aqua Coat Water Based Clear Wood Grain Filler Gel AND Aqua Coat, X-119 Sanding Sealer to apply after the filler. I'm going for a semi-transparent, finished product, meaning I want to see the wood grain but no wood texture. I'll be applying either clear lacquer if I opt for a natural finish or, if I feel really adventurous, cherry sunburst. Am I being redundant using both the wood grain filler AND sanding sealer? If I go with sunburst, am I making a mistake by applying the dye after the sanding sealer? I've seen it done a number of different ways.
1) Can you get the wood to completely disappear with enough coats?
2) For a painted piece, can you use acrylic paint after a water based grain filler?
Can this be used if my oak cabinets have already been painted?
Are there woodgrain fillers that work for exterior uses that you could recommend, such as an entry door fully exposed to the elements? Every video I see seems to be for interior furniture.
How do you apply pour filler around raised accents. I have such a hatred for my oak kitchen cabinets and they have a raised panel in the center. Very 80’s. Help please! God bless
Hi. I have some pieces that have danish oil, some with oddies. I would like to use grain filler on these finished pieces and refinish them. Can I use grain filler after oil? Thanks for your video, been a great help
What grain filler would you use before painting with an oil based paint? Does it make sense to fill grain before painting?
If you break through the seal coat, would you suggest sanding down and starting the process over, or will it all blend when you apply a clear top coat?
That one reason i hate working with oak is finishing never turns out the way i like. Have to chk this stuff out thanks Sean!🍻👍👍
Thanks for watching, Joe! Give it a try the next time you want to fill the pores. Works great.
I don’t here anyone talking about birch I’m doing old birch cabinets would this benefit me to use wood filler?
Hey there Sean,
I’m working with a mahogany guitar body with this grain filler.
I was advised to apply the grain filler before staining, which I’ve done, though have not applied the stain yet. Was this the right thing to do?
If it was not, can this remedied?
What material is used to make the grain filler.? I use plaster of Paris mixed with water and applying as you did in this video.
Would this fill the bigger grain and texture you get with burl?
great video ! Thank you ! So first we have to sand the open grain wood , clean with alcohol, apply grain filler , after apply grain sealer , and paint .... I mean this is the standard actions for painting wood ? Please let me know that. I understand that you applied 3 coats of grain filler to obtain a finish , and that's it, right ?
thank you so much !
How does this work with wood exposed to to the exterior elements? Such as a wooden front door?
I inherited a very nice oak veneer mid century bedroom set from my grandparents. Like many others of similar age, after 60 years, the set needs to be refinished. The task itself should be fairly easy/straight forward, as it is very minimalist - very box-like, with flush drawers/doors, and just a small framing lip around the front exterior surface edge. No complicated curves, carvings, or flourishes.
Overall, the way its designed has never looked out of style, and i dont think it ever will. The stain, however, is very dark. Also, when you look closely at the finish, it has these wierd little spots all over it - it looks as though someone stained it this dark color, and then jackson pollock walked into the room, stuck a paint brush into the dye, splattered it with 15000 little spots, waited for it to dry, and then sealed it. The spots are slightly darker than the stain, but barely noticeable unless you look close. Not terrible, just strange and not for me.
As i said, the set is stained very dark, and i would prefer to finish it in a somewhat lighter tone. That said, and most importantly, i want to minimize the grain contrast of the oak to get a more even tone across the pieces. Id like to stain it in a medium walnut tone, with somewhat orangey undertones. If youve ever seen the stockholm series at ikea, pretty much that colour im going for.
I understand that oak is oak, but i want to avoid that dated 1980's/1990's look that everyone had with their furniture and cabinets with the big obvious cathedral grain etc.
Would applying the grain/pore filler BEFORE applying stain help minimize the grain contrast? Could I expect even greater uniformity if i also applied oxalic acid before everything else, and utilized conditioner when applying the stain?
Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you.
Can I finish a piece of oak with danish oil after using a water based grain filler?
? Do you think on a mahogany guitar body that the grain filler could be applied first followed then by the color dye? Thank you.
Hello! What is the reason for applying shellac before the wood filler?
At 2:45 is the dye the same thing as a stain, or is dye and stain different products?
Also does this method need to be used with Dewaxed shellac? Or can we use the traditional bullseye shellac as well?
Thanks for the demo on how to use grain fillers, Sean. I noticed you applied it cross grain, I presume that with the grain would drag it out?
Yeah that's my thinking although i've not tested to see if it really makes a difference.
What do I do i varnished with poly and see tiny black holes in my mahogany how do I fix this? Thank you in advance
Can you use paste wax as a pore filler?
Would a clear PVA glue work as a pore filler?
Hi Sean, great content. Can this pore filler/sealer be applied to open grain oak with 1-2mm pores previously treated with oil finish or will it react or not stick to it since it is water based?
Alternatively what pore fillers can I use on oil finished open pore oak?
The purpose is filling the pores prior to applying shellac or another hardening clear coat. Thank you
Hi bud. Do you have an answer for this question yet? I have some oiled pieces i would like to grain fill. Any help greatly appreciated. Thank you
I own a Ben Moore store.... I brought this in a few weeks ago, and am finally got around to trying now.....
THE OPERATIVE TAKE AWAY HERE IS..... AT LEAST THREE COATS!!!! PROBABLY MANY MORE.
Im using it on red oak, over THREE heavy coats of General Finishes white undercoat, which already filled 90+% of the grain. after two coats it looks unchanged. Im glad I havent sold this to anyone yet!
Anyone know where can I get acrylic wall putty from here in the U.S.???
Can Aqua Coat be used on top of a few layers of polyurethane, before a final coat of poly is applied?
What is the purpose of the dewaxed shellac, and is there a brand name, or how does a person de-wax shellac?
Great information the test pieces look so nice and smooth what a difference. Do you use this method when finishing walnut?? Thank you for the information
If i'm going to a high gloss finish I will use it but a satin to semi-gloss I typically don't. Thanks for watching!
SimpleCove [Sean Walker] Thank you Sean.
Wondering if this filler would work on a turned bowl? Seems like it should. Would be especially helpful on oak pieces.
Yeah I believe it will work just fine. Thanks for watching.
Can this work on end grain?
Why did you use shellac before grain filler , about to use on Russian olive charcuterie boards in Idaho
Why did you use a shellac first? Thanks
Very interesting video, thanks for taking the time and effort to do this.
Q1. Why do you need to put a coat of shellac on the timber before applying the grain filler?
Q2. What grit do you use to sand the shellac before applying the grain filler?
Q3. After applying 3 coats of grain filler, what grit do you sand it to before applying the finish coat?
A1 - Shellac works as a seal coat before applying grain filler. Solvents in varnish sometimes raise the grain filler up, making an illusion like you're varnishing everything plain and clean, but weeks after the grain filler will shrink back down leaving varnish shrinks back down with it as well.
A1 - Many grain fillers, especially oil-based grain fillers, are tinted with pigments. A washcoat of shellac keeps any colors in the grain filler from leaking into the rest of the wood, muddying the look. A washcoat isn't necessary with transparent water-based grain filler like this. With transparent water-based grain fillers, it is possible to fill the pores directly onto the wood and then stain the whole piece. Taking stain is one of the advantages of water-based grain fillers over oil-based grain fillers. However, applying it the same way as oil-based fillers (over a washcoat), just like in the video, works just fine. Some finishers find it produces better results.
A2 - You don't want to sand the shellac washcoat before filling. The washcoat is a very thin layer of shellac (1lb cut or less), and it is there to protect the wood from color bleeding. Additionally, you want the edges of the pores to stay sharp, with overhangs, so that they hold the grain filler in and it's less likely to get pulled out. That's why you don't sand the washcoat.
A3 - After the last coat of grain filler, he sanded to 320 grit, then applied the finish coats.
Source for answers 1 and 2: "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner.
@@meghanclark6897 So the question here is, why in the video is he wasting time applying a shellac seal coat before filling if aqua coat is water based and clear?
what does laying down a coat of seal coat first on the walnut do?
The shellac seals the surface to prevent the grain filler from changing the appearance of the wood.
Great video with lots of info.
Would you advise this grainfiller also on burl? I need to finish some boxes with maple and walnut burl veneer and think this could be a solution for a smooth finish. Do you have any advise?
I always recommend testing this on a sample board first, but I would use it on burl. It may take more than the 3-4 coats on burl since it has such large open pores.
Thanks for the reply.
Nothing more to it than just try. 😉😉
Okay, I want a high-gloss finish, but my piece has moulding that I want to match. I'm planning on using a pore filler to accentuate the pores with more contrast, so how do I do this to moulding? The piece will be oil-stained first. Moreover, if I'm using oil-based poly, can I seal with poly before the water-based filler, or will the filler not stick well or the next top finish poly not stick well to the poly/filler coats?
Hi. Did you find out if you can apply the filler over a previously oiled surface? Thanks
Why the shellac coat before the pore filler?
When using it for oak cabinets do you prime first then apply or use it first on the raw wood?
Apply wood filler, then prime and paint. Sometimes even a good sanding is a good option.
can I stain the cabinet first with oil based stain then put this
Wondering the same. I've heard so, but it requires restraining areas that have sand through the filler. Seems like an easy way to get an uneven stain. I'm curious if anyone has experience and any tips.
**QUESTION** We are moving into an older 1990’s mobile home where the cabinets are painted over in white. Do I have to strip the paint in order to use the pore filler because the grain is very obvious and we want to fill it in? The cabinets are basically a flat piece of wood, not like cabinets with a design in the middle or whatever thats called... your answer would be appreciated!
We are wanting to paint over them again minus the appearance of the wood grain because it does not look good and they only painted one side of the cabinet 😬 so who knows what color they used
I just would go with a thick coat of nitro sealer (applied with a brush), then sand with 320 using the random orbital sander until the surface is flat. Then when everything is flat, just spray last two coats (or as many as you apply), sand and apply your finish.
Can someone clarify the finals steps? What is considered the “top coat”? For stained pieces do we ever add another layer of stain? Or just that very first layer?
I’m clearly a newby 🙋🏼♀️🤷🏼♀️
A top coat is the protective clear coat. So something like a wiping polyurethane or if it's a water based poly(polycrilic) it's brushable.
What's the purpose of the shellac before the grain-filler?
Most likely to protect the stain on the wood.
I'm thinking about using this product for the first time on my current project. I'm a little less enthusiastic after being able to still see some very large grain pits in your finished examples here. Do you think that it simply needs even more coats or is there a limit on how well it's going to fill? Possibly you sanded a bit too vigorously between coats and pulled some out of the pores? I'm thinking I'm going to go with plan B and make a wash coat from timbermate.
No, I dont think this is the limit on how well it's going to fill. The Aqua Coat is a thin pore filler that requires several coats.Since it's water based it dries quickly and allows you to apply multiple coats throughout the day. The purpose of the video was to show you how to use the grain filler product, which it does. I didn't completely fill the pores but got close enough for my taste. If you want it to be glass smooth and not have any pores, continue adding more layers of the pore filler. While the timbermate would do this faster, I find it requires more sanding and messier to apply. But at the end of the day you need to decide what's right for your project.
@@Simplecove Aw, okay, Thank you for the response. I like the idea of this product because it seems so simple and clean but I don't like that I'd probably be looking at 4 or 5 coats with sanding each time. With the timbermate I should be able to do it once and be done. However, I can use Aqua Coat after any dying and shellac whereas timbermate will need to be applied before the dye at the beginning. Decisions, decisions. Thanks for the help!
I don't think you will be table to only use 1 coat of timbermate unless you apply really thick. At least I wouldn't apply it that thick.
@@Simplecove I've used timbermate many times and usually get away with one coat. I find if I thin it just the right amount I can get it to fill the grain perfectly. That's not to say I haven't had to do a second coat before.
I've seen quite a few demos with this product, but this is the first I've seen that uses a shellac sealer first. Any particular reason/benefit for sealing with shellac before the grain fill step?
I've heard it helps prevent leak through of the stain into the filler.
@@phantomcreamer But that doesn't explain why he used it on the boards without stain.
you can still see the grain in the sample that was painted did it need another pass of the grain filler
if you want it completely closed then yes probably another 2-3 coats will be required.
Ic ..Thanks
forgive my ignorance, but why can't you do the grain filler as step 1?
When joint compound will not do!
Why would anyone paint oak? That's like blasphemy! 🤣 Great video, thanks for the info.
Why would you pay for oak wood if you want to fill in all the grain and then paint it (not stain it)? Why?
Because someone may own a piece of furniture(that they found at a thrift store or got for free) that they want to paint.....
I’m making a piano bench using oak for strength. It will be painted black to match the piano.
Red oak is cheap.
@@dibbledabble2482 it's still 3 times the price of pine where I am from. About $30 for 12" x 36" shelves vs $10 on pine. Although I probably might be able to find it slightly cheaper at certain lumber yards. But I agree in the sense that if you want it to be significantly stronger, be more dent resistant, and look a lot better than pine without spending too much, it's not that expensive compared to most other types of woods. it is sad that wood is so expensive overall though. it's often cheaper to buy most furniture than it is to make it by hand except when you are looking at $1,000+ pieces
.
Because Oak is the ugliest wood there is. JK (although I can't stand oak!). Seriously though, the stain he used didn't block the beauty of the grain at all so not sure what your issue is with that. The paint he used was simple for demonstration purposes. Also, Oak is notorious for having deep grains and, not sure why you like that, but people generally don't love to see huge grain pits throughout their furniture and cabinetry. Maybe you are confused and are thinking he is hiding the grain/figure when all he is doing is ensuring the surface is flat.
I came here to see the mirror finish wood advertised as profile picture for the video :(
Looks like you needed about 4 more coats
I agree.
The General Finishes product you applied is a pigment stain, NOT a dye.
Well excuse me.
I appreciate you uploading this video and sharing the results. I see you applied it correctly - did all that one could expect you too. But I totally disagree with what you state in the end about that being a smooth finish or being able to take it to a high gloss and get a mirror like finish. Three coats of that Aqua Coat and you still had a ton of grain in the end. That's NOT even close to a smooth finish. And the video is proof of that at the end. It's as if you're telling people to see something different than what is clearly evident in the video. All had a ton of grain left even after you filled the grain not once, but 3 times and more than one coat of finish on them.
I just did table legs and after painting two coats of satin black - there's about as much grain that shows in your video - and i didn't use anything but a home brew of sanding sealer - and that's on deeply grained red oak. And achieved a mirror finish filling the grain on the same deep grained red oak top via old school methods of creating a sanding sleary to start.
Like I said - thanks for sharing - including the results. I won't waste my money on Aqua Coat. Though I was hoping it would work for some dyed pieces I want to do... The Old school methods are still proving better and far less time consuming.
Cheers...
Aqua coat is meant to applied very thin which means it dries faster allowing you to put more coats on in a day. Like with anything you see online, always test it first to see if it's up to your standards. I was more than happy with the level I took mine to. You may not be but that doesn't make my opinion wrong. Ive used items like timbermate and while they work, they smell awful and take longer to dry. Every product out has pros and cons. Go test them yourself and please do record it so others can benefit from it.
@@Simplecove - It's not about opinion. I'm looking at the wood / finish in the end of your video. It's undeniable the grain is still very much there. Which will not make for a mirror finish by any account.
Granted it may dry quick and can be recoated several times through the day.
Old school way I can knock out filling the grain via two methods, to pop the grain or not to pop the grain) and have it dry in 30 minutes to 4 hrs for sanding depending on my mix. Max two coats. And there won't be any grain visible first coat of finish. No matter what wood is used.
But then I learned from a master finisher who made his own finishes and even his own brushes... perhaps that's the difference. The lost art of old school finishing techniques one could say.
You did the finish right according to instructions - so it wasn't your method. It was the product. I suppose if you want to sit there and put ten coats on it all day - it might work fine.
And I've seen many others that have used it looking further into Aqua Coat - and they had the same results. Some with 6 coats - grain still showed.
So I thank you for showing it - and sharing the results. I'll stick to what I know works. It may not come in a can - but it's sure easier and gives way better results than Aqua Coat - I will say that.
I wonder when anyone can show us how to REALLY get a smooth surface. Ten's of product, youtube movies, but never has someone be able to show a surface wher the pores were realy gone away; just like in this film, the pores are clearly visible.
If you want a smoother surface than what I show in the video just apply more filler. It's as simple as that.
Or research the French polishing method. That produces an extremely smooth and high gloss surface.