I know this is a year-old video but it has been/is incredibly helpful in imagining my 405 P-40 kit as an RC conversion. So helpful in fact that I am now a new subscriber. I'm new to the hobby and using foamboard kits as my entree but as a teen remember building Guillow's kits. Wonderful channel.
Hi John, welcome to the Channel, a dream of all us oldies to turn free flight rubber models into radio control models has become a reality, thanks for the kind words, cheers 🙂👍
Cliff, old man, you have the patience of JOB. That's some fine "after the fact" aileron construction. If I were on your side of the pond, I'd give you a well deserved pat on the back.
Thanks Jerry, one thing I forgot to consider is they work on a lower voltage than what comes out of the rx but I've gotten away with it because I have two servos running through a Y lead which seems to share the voltage if you understand me 😁
Thanks Norman, did you see my latest '5 in 1' video? The Liberty Raider now needs a similar operation... when will I learn! 😫 czcams.com/video/b8HBm-2oFqc/video.html
Yes Micheal, not a massive job but it was made easier by the fact that I had pre-drilled lightening holes through the ribs which made passing the servo leads through a pleasure, watch out for the flight video 👍
Hi Brobolio, funny you should spot that, I've found an old sharpening stone and I've been experimenting using it to sharpen the blade, I think it's more trouble than it's worth, I must have spent as much time sharpening as I did filming 😁
I retrofitted ailerons into a nearly 20 year old build, where I tried unsuccessfully to fly the Spitfire with ret control. The aileron linkage was made using a cut length of wire as a drill bit, blindly drilling through the ribs as straight as possible and then installing torque rods, finally having to make the bends for linkage in the wing center, with the rods installed. Flew well, just getting onto ailerons back then. Recently I swapped out the brushed motor in the GWS box with a BL inrunner, and corrected the aileron torque rod linkage geometry in the wing a bit. Recent flight flew better than I expected. czcams.com/video/P7uxSpd2udk/video.html
Great little modification! I'm still tweeking my little Spitfire...need to add more right thrust as it will turn left ok...but not right 🤣 It's all good fun isn't it! Cheers!
Excellent engineering and well done. How did you pass the control rods thru the wing to the fuselage? I have always find that a problem if I haven't made arragements in the ribs during initial assembly just in case. You must have a clever way
That's an excellent question Irwin and the answer is I was sort of lucky. I had made a few holes for lightness in the original build, the biggest of which was just the right size to pull a servo plug through using a piece of wire. Had that not been the case I would have had to remove a couple of panels of tissue to make some holes. I have also successfully done it on my Mannock biplane which I bought part-built, the original builder had covered the wings without any thought as to how to connect the ailerons, here's a video on what I did on this occasion czcams.com/video/cCH7VqbxLRk/video.html 🙂
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes What I have done is to make slits in the bottom of the ribs just enough to slip the thin wires into--from both wing and fuse if I need the length to and put any connector between ribs. It was messy, but I no longer can do fine wire soldering.
Sorry Tim missed your question, I acquired these in an estate sale but they are similar to these www.elitemodelsonline.co.uk/More/Radio-Equipment/Servos/Spektrum-Servos/55839-/18-Gram-Linear-Servo 👍 if you search for lightweight linear servos you'll find more 🙂
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes I'm learning about RC electronics in general and I've just discovered there are digital servos that might give more power and precision for lower weight so trying to understand it all. Love what you do - thanks.
Hi Yogenh, it's the same tissue covering that was used all those years ago, it comes in the kit, basically any tissue will work, some's heavier than others and some are more colour-fast than others but they all work to some extent. It's very different to using the Monokote you're used to but buy yourself a model and start having fun, you won't regret it, I certainly haven't, here's the video I made of this model that covers the tissuing czcams.com/video/30hkLhM4Zro/video.html plus there are lots of Facebook groups as well to have a look at and get loads of advice. 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes thanks and where can someone get it and is it just called tissue or does it have an other name that it goes by? I did watch the other video and it was helpful
Esaki tissue is one name you can search for Yogenh, but just 'tissue for model plane' will yield results, there are a few places in the UK that sells it and it's probably the same for most countries of the World. The tissue you can get from most craft outlets is suitable to a degree, your best bet is to get some tissue and make up a square of balsa and see how it behaves with various glues etc 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes thanks I will have to try that. I know way back then would use airplane dope on it to seal it and colored dope to pant it. I don't see that anymore so do you use something that is like it?
@@Yogenh If you want your model to fly, especially if it's rubber-powered, it has to be as light as possible, this means dope which is thinned down and colour only applied using coloured tissue. If on the other hand it's got a motor then you can go a little heavier but not much. We can get Nitrate dope here in the UK no problem but there's a product on the market (which I haven't tried but others say is pretty good) and that Eze Dope, again you have to thin it I guess. Personally I just put the tissue on as tight as possible, spritz it with water mist, this tightens it, then a couple of thinned coats of dope, or instead of dope you can try a couple of very light coats of clear matt lacquer in a rattle can. In the case of this Spitfire I painted the green on using watered down emulsion paint. Then the whole lot gets slightly sprayed with clear matt lacquer. My advice is to experiment on test panels, you can't go wrong that way Yogenh.
I know this is a year-old video but it has been/is incredibly helpful in imagining my 405 P-40 kit as an RC conversion. So helpful in fact that I am now a new subscriber. I'm new to the hobby and using foamboard kits as my entree but as a teen remember building Guillow's kits. Wonderful channel.
Hi John, welcome to the Channel, a dream of all us oldies to turn free flight rubber models into radio control models has become a reality, thanks for the kind words, cheers 🙂👍
Cliff, old man, you have the patience of JOB. That's some fine "after the fact" aileron construction. If I were on your side of the pond, I'd give you a well deserved pat on the back.
A virtual pat is acceptable, thank you William 🙂
Looking forward to seeing your next installment. Good luck.
Thanks Terry, video to follow this weekend 👍
You have more patience than I do, Cliff.
You would think so David but you should see what's on the cutting room floor 😁👍
Great job cliff. 👍
Thank you Kevin, watch out for the flight video, fellow Spitfire fan 🙂
Yes I will cliff can't wait👍
As you say Cliff, aero modelling at it's finest, nice one.
Thanks Gary, takes one to know one 😉👍
Now it is time to finally put that spinner on!
😁 I know you're right Morco but it got badly damaged as a rubber-powered model, now I feel bad 😉😁
Nice conversion to 4 channels!! Should fly amazing Cliff😄👍
Cheers Ian, hopefully it will, we'll soon see 🙂
Hey Thanks great video insight and cool bird
Thanks for commenting Bill, fiddly but it should transform the flying, we'll soon see 🙂👍
Very clever mod Cliff. I have a few of those linear servos but don't think I've ever used any.. Brilliant mate 👍
Thanks Jerry, one thing I forgot to consider is they work on a lower voltage than what comes out of the rx but I've gotten away with it because I have two servos running through a Y lead which seems to share the voltage if you understand me 😁
I do understand, yes.. 👍
I was hoping you'd get around to this, Cliff. Nice work!
Thanks for watching and commenting, I'm excited to give her a try again 😁👍
Great stuff ! Very neat work.
Thanks Norman, did you see my latest '5 in 1' video? The Liberty Raider now needs a similar operation... when will I learn! 😫
czcams.com/video/b8HBm-2oFqc/video.html
Fantastic build Cliff, from your teasing looks like a great flyer, Jeff in LA USA
Thanks Jeff, video up tomorrow morning (gmt of course) ... I'm pleased 👍
Very nice and neat mod Cliff.
Thanks Bob, let's hope it was worth the effort huh? 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes It should make all the difference. Fingers crossed!
Nice work Cliff. Should fly well now. 😄
Thanks Bob 🙂
Hola, Cliff. ! Excelente cambio asi queda completo, al vuelo y esteticamente. Saludos.
Gracias Jorge, dedos cruzados para un buen vuelo 👍✌️
Si los tendré. Volarás sin problemas.
Hi Cliff you made short work of that
Looks great
Bet you it fly s great as well
Yes Micheal, not a massive job but it was made easier by the fact that I had pre-drilled lightening holes through the ribs which made passing the servo leads through a pleasure, watch out for the flight video 👍
Excellent work!! Beautiful plane but for sure your knife needs a little bit more sharpness!!
Thanks for sharing!!
Hi Brobolio, funny you should spot that, I've found an old sharpening stone and I've been experimenting using it to sharpen the blade, I think it's more trouble than it's worth, I must have spent as much time sharpening as I did filming 😁
Brilliant modifications Cliff, very clever 👍🏻
Thanks Chris, it would have been easier to have built some in at the beginning but I think it worked out ok in the end 👍
Nice! Ailerons are always a challenging (and fun) part of builds. Looking forward for the test flight!
Thank you DC, me too, how's the Eurostar training going? 🙂
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes The weather is not helping. Lets see if I manage to go flying this weekend. I'll try to get a video out of it.
Excellent work Cliff! Thanks for sharing with us! 😁
Hi Mike, you're welcome 👍
Awesome!
Thank you Anthony 🙂
I retrofitted ailerons into a nearly 20 year old build, where I tried unsuccessfully to fly the Spitfire with ret control. The aileron linkage was made using a cut length of wire as a drill bit, blindly drilling through the ribs as straight as possible and then installing torque rods, finally having to make the bends for linkage in the wing center, with the rods installed. Flew well, just getting onto ailerons back then. Recently I swapped out the brushed motor in the GWS box with a BL inrunner, and corrected the aileron torque rod linkage geometry in the wing a bit. Recent flight flew better than I expected. czcams.com/video/P7uxSpd2udk/video.html
I found the rudder ineffective so it had to be done, yours goes well, it's a nice build as well 👍
Great little modification! I'm still tweeking my little Spitfire...need to add more right thrust as it will turn left ok...but not right 🤣 It's all good fun isn't it! Cheers!
And that's the point Mike, FUN, FUN, FUN, thanks for commenting as usual my friend 👍
Muito bom.
Grande Cliff , muito abilidoso.
👍🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Olá Altamiro, que bom que você gostou, continue assistindo o vídeo do vôo em breve 👍
Just subscribed nice video God bless
Thanks, I wish I'd fitted them at the outset though 🙂👍
Final Weight? Nice ailerons hingings!
Hi Neftali, she's 209g or 7.35oz including the battery, thanks 🙂
Excellent engineering and well done. How did you pass the control rods thru the wing to the fuselage? I have always find that a problem if I haven't made arragements in the ribs during initial assembly just in case. You must have a clever way
That's an excellent question Irwin and the answer is I was sort of lucky. I had made a few holes for lightness in the original build, the biggest of which was just the right size to pull a servo plug through using a piece of wire. Had that not been the case I would have had to remove a couple of panels of tissue to make some holes. I have also successfully done it on my Mannock biplane which I bought part-built, the original builder had covered the wings without any thought as to how to connect the ailerons, here's a video on what I did on this occasion czcams.com/video/cCH7VqbxLRk/video.html 🙂
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes What I have done is to make slits in the bottom of the ribs just enough to slip the thin wires into--from both wing and fuse if I need the length to and put any connector between ribs. It was messy, but I no longer can do fine wire soldering.
Oh, I've just noticed you've already seen the video on the Mannock Irwin 😁
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Yes, I saw that. Very steady hand needed.
I was wondering what was up with the edge of the tissue? I thought you used a beaver to cut that edge. Now I see why.
I always wanted a pet beaver David but the missus said no, what can a chap do? 😁
Great stuff Cliff. Are the control horns made up from thin ply or are they off-the-shelf?
Hi Rob, just cut from thin ply with scissors 🙂👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes many thanks! Going to be doing the same project myself this winter. Hoping to do a tiny FPV spitfire, based on this model.
@coulsonrobert Now that'll be awsum 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes hope so!
Hi Cliff - what were the linear servos that you used for the ailerons?
Sorry Tim missed your question, I acquired these in an estate sale but they are similar to these www.elitemodelsonline.co.uk/More/Radio-Equipment/Servos/Spektrum-Servos/55839-/18-Gram-Linear-Servo 👍 if you search for lightweight linear servos you'll find more 🙂
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes I'm learning about RC electronics in general and I've just discovered there are digital servos that might give more power and precision for lower weight so trying to understand it all. Love what you do - thanks.
What do you use for covering on it. I haven't done this kind of planes in over 40 years
Hi Yogenh, it's the same tissue covering that was used all those years ago, it comes in the kit, basically any tissue will work, some's heavier than others and some are more colour-fast than others but they all work to some extent. It's very different to using the Monokote you're used to but buy yourself a model and start having fun, you won't regret it, I certainly haven't, here's the video I made of this model that covers the tissuing czcams.com/video/30hkLhM4Zro/video.html plus there are lots of Facebook groups as well to have a look at and get loads of advice. 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes thanks and where can someone get it and is it just called tissue or does it have an other name that it goes by? I did watch the other video and it was helpful
Esaki tissue is one name you can search for Yogenh, but just 'tissue for model plane' will yield results, there are a few places in the UK that sells it and it's probably the same for most countries of the World. The tissue you can get from most craft outlets is suitable to a degree, your best bet is to get some tissue and make up a square of balsa and see how it behaves with various glues etc 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes thanks I will have to try that. I know way back then would use airplane dope on it to seal it and colored dope to pant it. I don't see that anymore so do you use something that is like it?
@@Yogenh If you want your model to fly, especially if it's rubber-powered, it has to be as light as possible, this means dope which is thinned down and colour only applied using coloured tissue. If on the other hand it's got a motor then you can go a little heavier but not much. We can get Nitrate dope here in the UK no problem but there's a product on the market (which I haven't tried but others say is pretty good) and that Eze Dope, again you have to thin it I guess. Personally I just put the tissue on as tight as possible, spritz it with water mist, this tightens it, then a couple of thinned coats of dope, or instead of dope you can try a couple of very light coats of clear matt lacquer in a rattle can. In the case of this Spitfire I painted the green on using watered down emulsion paint. Then the whole lot gets slightly sprayed with clear matt lacquer. My advice is to experiment on test panels, you can't go wrong that way Yogenh.