I was about 10y-o when one of dad's employee showed me how to sharpen these, but never really got to use that skill til decades later. And still, I had to re-learn from trial and errors, lots of errors lol. But your technic is right on point with the way I'm doing this. There's also a technic for large drills where it asks for a cut, a clearance, right behind the tip. This clearance can only be made on a sharp-edged grinding-wheel. Some drills are made in that fashion, but I don't know if it has a special name for that style of drill. Thanks for showing some tricks of the trade 👍
I think it is called split point, where the chisel edge is made smaller. Seen more or smaller drills which can wander. Not common on say greater than 14mm drill bits.
I lost a leaf spring on a Mack truck once. Took it to a spring shop to remake. Old guy used water to cool it. To me water is the best drill coolant. I am an inconsistent bit grinder so I will follow your technic and maybe old dog can still learn. Old stuff rocks!🦍
I always did it the opposite way (self taught). Grind the cutting edges, making sure each flute has the same size and shape, then do relief grinding. Made more sense to me on chipped drill bits where you have to remove a log of material and lose original reference points.
Thank you for the tips! I usually only deal with small bits. 1/2" and smaller on my little ranch. Mostly 1/8" to 3/8". I learned before high school, during high school and college, how to sharpen drill bits. For me, the smaller bits are harder to sharpen. I only have pedestal and bench top grinders. I would love a belt grinder. But it just isn't in my budget. Again, thank you for your tips and time. It is greatly appreciated.
It’s the little drill bits I struggle with where it’s easy to take way to much off in just a few seconds. If I could weld bolts out as good as you I wouldn’t worry about the little ones. Good video as always.
Great video. I was taught to sharpen in the opposite direction. Gives same result. Start at the cutting edge and then grind the heel of the bit. Also you missed an important step....showing how to make the cutting leg lengths equal by using a scratch pad. It utilises the centre hole in the MT tang. Cheers
Far from outdated, taper shank bits are used in the tailstocks of engine lathes, milling machine adapters, and any drill press other than the homeowner variety.
For me, a 1 1/2 inch drill could have went through half inch plate way faster. I disagree with a few things shown in the video... but hey your showing your technique and i appreciate that and always enjoy your vids so keep some more coming. Oh yeah, maybe you could show your viewers how to split the point on a drill, possible it could have prevented the tip from burning up on the half inch drill.. anyway have a good day my youtube friend.
The Drill Doctor was a bit sharpening tool $40 back in the day. It was good up to 3/4". A diamond stone came with it and could sharpen to a split chisel point @ a 2 degrees bevel. Slow grinding the edges helps to keep the temper.
You dont need a 72 inch belt grinder to sharpen drill bits, but gee I have found they make it very easy and quick compared to an old stone wheel grinder. Lovely old school drill press by the way.
Thanks for the video I have some cheap bits where the back of the flute is even with the cutting edge They just spin on the metal Some day I just need to sit down at my little belt sander and sharpen them easy to do for me since they are 3/8 to 1/2 inch bits I have no luck with 1/4 in. or smaller bits I have used my Dremel tool and stones to touch up little bits
I learned something, I been grinding from top down, will change. Suggestion on drilling pilot holes, use pilot drill equal to the width of web of the finish drill.
Can you do this with a regular bench grinder with large drill bits, or only smaller ones under 1"? Can you do a video showing how to sharpen smaller drill bits on a bench grinder?
Alright done with the video...awesome there are probably 50lbs of old bits of my dads in the shop that I've neglected put of my own ignorance. I'll have to bring them back to life. I must say annular cutters have spoiled hacks like me
Never will I ever use a #$%&*# belt sander to grind a drill. It it is all that is available, I will go sideways. I also start from the cutting edge toward the relief also, because it is easier to follow the existing angle. Learning to twist as you roll is also a benefit. I had been shown this by a couple of old machinists, but it didn't sink in until watching a drill sharpener (lisle, sterling, and even those little General fixtures you use on your bench grinder.)
One thing i would add is that you should be careful not to hold the drill on the belt in one spot too long. You'll work harden that spot and the drill will break down prematurely.
I use a radial.arm saw regularly at work but I may have jumped the gun when I bought one for the garage. I can't seem to find detailed info on it and now I'm left with a 5000 lb paper weight. How do you research your prodjects. The drill I. Question is a Western big 4.
Friend of mine bought a radial arm drill a few years back and it was to big for his shop sadly. As far as research goes, I’ve done some, but mostly just kind of jumped into it. You can check out machinery.org if it’s a American made machine, they probably got some information on it.
I could never create perfect finish with a bench grinder plus in most cases grinder wheels are in horrible shape…..however I learned how to make perfect edge handheld with fibre disc p60, no issues there and much easier to control.
Not true on quality drills. However, let's say you broke a drill about half way down the length of the flutes and wanted to sharpen it from there. The webbing gets thicker n thicker the closer it gets to the tang or the drill body you are to chuck on. This results in the tips center (the webbing) getting wider than it was originally. Keep in mind the drill tip center actually is not a cutting edge. The very tip, or the webbing I referred to merely deforms the metal moving it out of the way until the cutting edges come into contact with the work. The reason why larger bits require pilot holes with smaller drills. There is also split point drills which by splitting the tip creates two more cutting edges, more commonly found on half inch and under drills. You can lose the temper by over heating the drill as you sharpen it if not quenching the tip in water every few moments. As for real cheap drills you are most likely correct but I can't say for sure because I don't buy the el cheapo drills. My machine geek brain is making me say too much so imma get on to something else, lol
@@jeffmays3608 it was the guy from Cutting Edge Engineering that said this but maybe i misunderstood him. i buy cheap tools because i need money for booze. gotta have priorities Jeff. happy 5th of july
@@porkyswelding haha, I hear ya on the booze money brother. Wish I could partake in some again but too much of the ol Jim beam gave me a bad stomach ulcer with internal bleeding. Maybe I should have bought better quality bourbon instead of the expensive tools, lol. Have a good one.
@@porkyswelding On certain bits it is true. And it really depends on what you’re actually drilling if your fooling with cold roll or low carbon steel it’s not too bad. If you’re drilling a lot of 4140 or anything with chromium in it like stainless even a good bit will have trouble. You’ll usually dull one halfway through a cut and you’ll have to stop and sharpen it especially if you can’t get your coolant on it very well.
Thank you for making this video. However, I think you need to sort out your sound. Talking over a machine motor is hopeless unless you have a well-adjusted lavalier mic. Alternatively, do a voice over the video. And the technique you described cannot realistically be called 'rolling'. You don't really roll the drill as far as I can see. It is more a pendulum technique.
I know I didn’t get into more the technical part of it like the angle that you’re supposed to sharpen the drill bit at 118°. I didn’t want to over complicate a simple process because a lot of people do. This video was more to show a technique that I’ve never seen demonstrated and I know it just looks like a didn’t do much but it really isn’t that hard if you can copy what I do you’ll be surprised how easy it is.
What you talking bout "old school" Morris Taper drills? Virtually ALL industrial drill presses Brand New or100 years ols are Morse Taper. If they do have a chuck, it's on an MT shank. BTW, never seen too many 1 and 2 inch straight shank drill bits, or a chuck to put them in. None, in fact. The only drill presses that do not take Morris Taper shanks are Bob Villa specials. Even Harbor Freight floor model drill presses have #2 Morris Taper spindles. - Fact is you will find damn few revenue shops that have drills over 1/2" with straight shanks. - We seldom use anything over 3/8 in manual lathe tail stocks that is not Morris Taper. Nothing really wrong with the way you grind, but the way Don Bailey at Suburban Tool, Joe Pie, or Mr Pete is more industry standard,,,,,and the way Toolmaker apprentices are taught.
I said that very poorly about MT drills. I meant in a world of cnc’s angler cutters, and press’s there are a lot of ways to make holes that drill bits are put in more of a (old way) but your absolutely right about them in the machine world. MT’s are the most popular out of all the shanks but there are others Brown and sharp made tapers. What it is MT are 5/8” per foot and B&S is like 7/8” per foot something stupid I know they wouldn’t cross over. I appreciate the comment though I know I worded that very badly.
Always love the old school tools and the art of using them.
Glad you're still around to share the old school technologies. Been following your channel for years.
Glad to see you back. Always enjoy seeing what you are up to.
This has been one of the most comprehensive, and easiest to understand sharpening techniques I've ever witnessed. Thank you for sharing.
I was about 10y-o when one of dad's employee showed me how to sharpen these, but never really got to use that skill til decades later. And still, I had to re-learn from trial and errors, lots of errors lol. But your technic is right on point with the way I'm doing this.
There's also a technic for large drills where it asks for a cut, a clearance, right behind the tip. This clearance can only be made on a sharp-edged grinding-wheel. Some drills are made in that fashion, but I don't know if it has a special name for that style of drill.
Thanks for showing some tricks of the trade 👍
I think it is called split point, where the chisel edge is made smaller. Seen more or smaller drills which can wander. Not common on say greater than 14mm drill bits.
I lost a leaf spring on a Mack truck once. Took it to a spring shop to remake. Old guy used water to cool it. To me water is the best drill coolant. I am an inconsistent bit grinder so I will follow your technic and maybe old dog can still learn. Old stuff rocks!🦍
I always did it the opposite way (self taught). Grind the cutting edges, making sure each flute has the same size and shape, then do relief grinding. Made more sense to me on chipped drill bits where you have to remove a log of material and lose original reference points.
Thank you for the tips! I usually only deal with small bits. 1/2" and smaller on my little ranch. Mostly 1/8" to 3/8". I learned before high school, during high school and college, how to sharpen drill bits. For me, the smaller bits are harder to sharpen. I only have pedestal and bench top grinders. I would love a belt grinder. But it just isn't in my budget. Again, thank you for your tips and time. It is greatly appreciated.
It’s the little drill bits I struggle with where it’s easy to take way to much off in just a few seconds. If I could weld bolts out as good as you I wouldn’t worry about the little ones. Good video as always.
Glad to see you posting again. Tim in northern TN
This is awesome info. I have a ton of old bits that are dull! Thanks.
awesome, excellent tool to learn, happy to see you back
Good to see you back. Thanks.
Thank you so much for the extremely informative video! I just need to get in there and start to practice!!
Great to see you back making videos, yes we have missed you ...
videos like this are why i subbed to your channel. glad to hear it will be a series!!!
Great video. I was taught to sharpen in the opposite direction. Gives same result. Start at the cutting edge and then grind the heel of the bit. Also you missed an important step....showing how to make the cutting leg lengths equal by using a scratch pad. It utilises the centre hole in the MT tang. Cheers
Far from outdated, taper shank bits are used in the tailstocks of engine lathes, milling machine adapters, and any drill press other than the homeowner variety.
Thanks for the video! Hope you keep them coming.
Like your channel, you're not one of those people that love to hear themselves talk and full of bs.
For me, a 1 1/2 inch drill could have went through half inch plate way faster. I disagree with a few things shown in the video... but hey your showing your technique and i appreciate that and always enjoy your vids so keep some more coming. Oh yeah, maybe you could show your viewers how to split the point on a drill, possible it could have prevented the tip from burning up on the half inch drill.. anyway have a good day my youtube friend.
The Drill Doctor was a bit sharpening tool $40 back in the day. It was good up to 3/4". A diamond stone came with it and could sharpen to a split chisel point @ a 2 degrees bevel. Slow grinding the edges helps to keep the temper.
They still sell em. I got one last Christmas!
You dont need a 72 inch belt grinder to sharpen drill bits, but gee I have found they make it very easy and quick compared to an old stone wheel grinder. Lovely old school drill press by the way.
glad to see you back at it....have not seen you on CZcams in awhile....best wishes , Paul in Orlando.....
Never mind the sharpening, that flat belt drill press is the bomb.
Thanks for the video I have some cheap bits where the back of the flute is even with the cutting edge They just spin on the metal Some day I just need to sit down at my little belt sander and sharpen them easy to do for me since they are 3/8 to 1/2 inch bits I have no luck with 1/4 in. or smaller bits I have used my Dremel tool and stones to touch up little bits
I learned something, I been grinding from top down, will change.
Suggestion on drilling pilot holes, use pilot drill equal to the width of web of the finish drill.
MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼……………………………………………………..Glad you’re back!
Отличный старый сверлильный станок👍👍👍👍👍
Best drilling machine.
Thank you, well done.
Glad your back 👌🤘🤘
Let's go!!!!!!
Keep a junk piece of brass or bronze to push the bit against to seat it. That's how I seat bits in my lathe tailstock.
A belt grinder cushions the drill bit and gives it a consistent grind ,that you will not be able to get with a grinding wheel freehand .
the cutting edge of the drill has to be longer than the radius for the drill to cut into the hole
I have a camel back Rockford IL drill press very similar to the one your using in the video
Can you do this with a regular bench grinder with large drill bits, or only smaller ones under 1"? Can you do a video showing how to sharpen smaller drill bits on a bench grinder?
Good video ! ---Doozer
Nice explanation however 1966 I was thought to start cutting edge down of course a bench grinder your way looks more controlled good job
👍👍👍.Thank you
Alright done with the video...awesome there are probably 50lbs of old bits of my dads in the shop that I've neglected put of my own ignorance. I'll have to bring them back to life. I must say annular cutters have spoiled hacks like me
Never will I ever use a #$%&*# belt sander to grind a drill. It it is all that is available, I will go sideways. I also start from the cutting edge toward the relief also, because it is easier to follow the existing angle. Learning to twist as you roll is also a benefit. I had been shown this by a couple of old machinists, but it didn't sink in until watching a drill sharpener (lisle, sterling, and even those little General fixtures you use on your bench grinder.)
👍
One thing i would add is that you should be careful not to hold the drill on the belt in one spot too long. You'll work harden that spot and the drill will break down prematurely.
👍🏻
Hope you’re still getting plenty of Cello practice 🎻.👍🏴
I use a radial.arm saw regularly at work but I may have jumped the gun when I bought one for the garage. I can't seem to find detailed info on it and now I'm left with a 5000 lb paper weight. How do you research your prodjects. The drill I. Question is a Western big 4.
Friend of mine bought a radial arm drill a few years back and it was to big for his shop sadly. As far as research goes, I’ve done some, but mostly just kind of jumped into it. You can check out machinery.org if it’s a American made machine, they probably got some information on it.
I could never create perfect finish with a bench grinder plus in most cases grinder wheels are in horrible shape…..however I learned how to make perfect edge handheld with fibre disc p60, no issues there and much easier to control.
Last time I used an angle grinder.
i heard you can only sharpen a few times because you burn through the case hardening. whatever works man i watch all your vids keep it up
Not true on quality drills. However, let's say you broke a drill about half way down the length of the flutes and wanted to sharpen it from there. The webbing gets thicker n thicker the closer it gets to the tang or the drill body you are to chuck on. This results in the tips center (the webbing) getting wider than it was originally. Keep in mind the drill tip center actually is not a cutting edge. The very tip, or the webbing I referred to merely deforms the metal moving it out of the way until the cutting edges come into contact with the work. The reason why larger bits require pilot holes with smaller drills. There is also split point drills which by splitting the tip creates two more cutting edges, more commonly found on half inch and under drills. You can lose the temper by over heating the drill as you sharpen it if not quenching the tip in water every few moments. As for real cheap drills you are most likely correct but I can't say for sure because I don't buy the el cheapo drills. My machine geek brain is making me say too much so imma get on to something else, lol
@@jeffmays3608 it was the guy from Cutting Edge Engineering that said this but maybe i misunderstood him. i buy cheap tools because i need money for booze. gotta have priorities Jeff. happy 5th of july
@@porkyswelding haha, I hear ya on the booze money brother. Wish I could partake in some again but too much of the ol Jim beam gave me a bad stomach ulcer with internal bleeding. Maybe I should have bought better quality bourbon instead of the expensive tools, lol. Have a good one.
@@porkyswelding On certain bits it is true. And it really depends on what you’re actually drilling if your fooling with cold roll or low carbon steel it’s not too bad. If you’re drilling a lot of 4140 or anything with chromium in it like stainless even a good bit will have trouble. You’ll usually dull one halfway through a cut and you’ll have to stop and sharpen it especially if you can’t get your coolant on it very well.
Thank you for making this video. However, I think you need to sort out your sound. Talking over a machine motor is hopeless unless you have a well-adjusted lavalier mic. Alternatively, do a voice over the video. And the technique you described cannot realistically be called 'rolling'. You don't really roll the drill as far as I can see. It is more a pendulum technique.
As a beginner , your thoughts are good but the how to? Just didn't explain so I could understand
I know I didn’t get into more the technical part of it like the angle that you’re supposed to sharpen the drill bit at 118°. I didn’t want to over complicate a simple process because a lot of people do. This video was more to show a technique that I’ve never seen demonstrated and I know it just looks like a didn’t do much but it really isn’t that hard if you can copy what I do you’ll be surprised how easy it is.
What you talking bout "old school" Morris Taper drills? Virtually ALL industrial drill presses Brand New or100 years ols are Morse Taper. If they do have a chuck, it's on an MT shank. BTW, never seen too many 1 and 2 inch straight shank drill bits, or a chuck to put them in. None, in fact.
The only drill presses that do not take Morris Taper shanks are Bob Villa specials. Even Harbor Freight floor model drill presses have #2 Morris Taper spindles. - Fact is you will find damn few revenue shops that have drills over 1/2" with straight shanks. - We seldom use anything over 3/8 in manual lathe tail stocks that is not Morris Taper.
Nothing really wrong with the way you grind, but the way Don Bailey at Suburban Tool, Joe Pie, or Mr Pete is more industry standard,,,,,and the way Toolmaker apprentices are taught.
I said that very poorly about MT drills. I meant in a world of cnc’s angler cutters, and press’s there are a lot of ways to make holes that drill bits are put in more of a (old way) but your absolutely right about them in the machine world.
MT’s are the most popular out of all the shanks but there are others Brown and sharp made tapers. What it is MT are 5/8” per foot and B&S is like 7/8” per foot something stupid I know they wouldn’t cross over.
I appreciate the comment though I know I worded that very badly.
But don't do it because the boss gets mad that his plans for all day were done by lunchtime
It takes a minute or so to sharpen a bit, but 17 minutes for a video?
What do you mean outdated? All of our new machine tools still use tapered twist drills.