Efficient Work Flow for Sleeve Fitting
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- We have finally made it to the Sleeve! Before you start fitting the sleeve double check to make sure the bodice fits well. Working the Blue and Pink Zones starting at the top of the pattern pieces, the armhole was adjusted to agree with your body measurements. To make efficient work of fitting the sleeve, start by walking the sleeve along the armhole to see how much ease the sleeve cap has. If you need to add ease, start by adjusting the height of the sleeve cap first. This will make the sleeve cap agree with your body measurement & your adjusted armhole. From there you can fine-tune the ease in the cap and make an adjustment to shift the ease backward if you have a forward ball of your shoulder.
PDF Companions:
Efficient Work Flow in Bodice Fitting - Shoulders, Neck & Upper Back PDF Companion
jsterndesigns....
Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting - The Pink Zone PDF Companion
jsterndesigns....
Efficient Work Flow for Sleeve Fitting PDF Companion:
jsterndesigns....
Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting: Complete Series
Prep Pattern and Sew Half Muslin: • Efficient Work Flow fo...
Tips for Solo Bodice Fitting: • Efficient Work Flow Fo...
Pink Zone - Armhole Depth & Position and Ease of Bust Dart: • Efficient Work Flow fo...
Pink Zone - Waistline, Hem and Ease: • Efficient Work Flow fo...
Efficient Work Flow for Sleeve Fitting: • Efficient Work Flow fo...
Thank you for this information. I have considered how to alter the front sleeve and chest and your demo has given me permission to proceed. I'm very grateful.
My pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me!!
Very detailed and helpful explanation. It does reduce drag lines in the woven sleeves but does not eliminate them. From what I have red and watched elsewhere, the fact that the arm is bent at the elbow creates drag lines that disappear either by creating an elbow dart or by having enough circumference . Alternatively, a 2 piece sleeve by its construction allows for correcting the problem.
Do you have another solution?
The problem with learning to fit is that you get less satisfied with the results because you notice all the draglines and would want to correct them. When you buy from the shop you just accept what you get.
:) Thanks! Drag lines when you bend your elbow happens if the fabric is touching your arm (fitted sleeve that does not have an elbow dart or two pieces) ... Just like a fitted pant leg will wrinkle when you bend your knee... because you're asking a tube of fabric to bend with you. I've used this method to fit my non-stretch tops and it really helps with those drag lines that start at the armhole and radiate down. I think I see an "appendix" to this series... Fitted Sleeves with Elbow Darts (technically a two piece sleeve hides the shaping in the seams!) ... and I totally agree with you about fitting garments and worrying on every wrinkle vs. walking out of a store with wrinkles all over the place that are not noticed! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you Jen. ❤ This PDF Companion is a super useful instrument to achive the best fit in our bodice! I have a question: when you adjust the sleeve for a forward ball of the shoulder, how do you re-hestablis the sleeve's grainline? Do you extend the existing grainline from the sleeve's bottom to the top of the sleeve cap?
I'm so happy to hear! The grainline of the sleeve can be re established by extending it from the wrist/elbow ....back up to the top of the cap. (Just like most adjustments that distort the grainline, "fix" them by using the original grainline below the adjustment :) thanks for fitting along with me!
Jennifer, do any of the changes you showed today in sleeve adjustments cover the diagonal drag lines you get in the front of a long sleeve? I thought you said you were going to cover that and I have not seen anything in this series to address those. Have I just missed it somewhere along the way?
:) If the length of the sleeve cap is balanced front to back (to agree with the vertical length of the front/back armholes) that usually helps the sleeve hang properly without diagonal drag lines. Of you’re still having sleeve fit issues, please let me know.
Really wonderful video, thank you so much!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks, Jen!
You are so welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Great videos, thank you.
Thanks so much, and thank you for fitting along with me
Great very detailed advice. Going to have to review this when I get back to Virginia.
Have fun and safe travels home!!
Always great explanation 😊 thank you Jen❤
Thanks so much! and thanks for fitting along with me
Jennifer, will you be issuing one complete pdf this series? For me, having one document will be very useful. Thanks - and thanks for creating this series on efficient work flow. Great resource and helps make your videos more accessible.
I think I will put them together for those who would like to buy the whole series... but I'm also going to leave them as individual pdfs as well. I'll get that done by the end of the week! Thanks so much for fitting along with me
Another wonder& very helpful video from you. You never cease to amaze me. I love how you explain in common terms. A firm follower from Queensland Australia. 😊
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for following along with me!!
Nice! Have to power watch these this week!
Yay!! Keep me posted if you have questions as you power watch :)
@@JSternDesigns thanks!
I'm really enjoying your tutorials and info.
I'm so glad! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Can you make a tutorial on how to shorten the sleeves from the cap 2 inches because it cannot be shortened from the bottom reason why the cuff has functional button holes. Thank you Rosie
That's a good one! Stay tuned, I'll put that on my list of upcoming tutorials! Thanks for following along with me
Your videos are the best for me. do you have books for sale?
I'm so happy to hear! Here's a link to the Complete PDF with step-by-step instructions, illustrations and QR codes to video tutorials for many of the steps! jsterndesigns.com/product/efficient-work-flow-for-bodice-fitting-the-complete-pdf/ Thanks for fitting along with me
Does rotating the sleeve cap affect the grain line to account for the new position of shoulder line?
That's a great question! Reestablish the grainline by extending the original grainline from wrist to bicep line... straight up to the top of the cap. Hope that helps! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Okay, I admit it; I’m behind the times. I work from a desktop and I can’t use a QR code. Would there be another way I could view the video?
I’m adding I can’t tell you how many times I’ve come up with negative ease in my sleeve cap and stopped working on the pattern because I felt so overwhelmed. Now I don’t have too feel that way.
:))) I'm sorry about that! I now realize that I forgot to put in the clickable links. I will add them next week! If you've already purchased the pdf companion, email me at jsterndesigns37@gmail.com and I'll send you the updated version.... If not, wait till next weekend to purchase it, I'll get that fixed right after my 3-Day Pants Fitting Workshop! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi Jennifer - This series has been wonderful! I have watched all three videos and purchased the pdfs. A question. I have determined I have a forward head, forward shoulders and prominent shoulder blades. What order of pattern adjustments would you suggest, and can they be combined? 🤔 Again, thanks!!
Thanks so much! You can adjust the forward neck and shoulder first , in any order (these two adjustments affect opposite ends of the shoulder seam.)... Then tackle the prominent shoulder blades after you "tape it like you mean it" after adjusting the shoulder seam. Here's a tutorial for prominent shoulder blades: czcams.com/video/oMr-fgpLoP4/video.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much! @@JSternDesigns
How many videos included in this? Number 2 has been deleted. Is this correct? 🤔 Thank you.
There are three parts. The Blue Zone (Shoulders, Neck and Upper Back), The Pink Zone is part 2... here are the links for that: Video Tutorial: Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting - The Pink Zone (Armhole Depth & Bust Dart: czcams.com/video/G6luj9fLrwk/video.html
PDF Companion: Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting - The Pink Zone (Armhole Depth & Bust Dart
jsterndesigns.com/product/efficient-work-flow-for-bodice-fitting-part-2-the-pink-zone/
The Efficient Work Flow for the Sleeve is Part 3 :) Hope this helps, sorry for the confusion & Thanks for fitting along with me
Are you going to combine all 3 PDF’s into one?
I might… the price will be the same if I do… part of me was thinking that sewers might want to “pick and choose” which ones they need 💓
Confused
I'm so sorry about that, if you tell me what's confusing you, maybe I can help.
thank you for making these videos! ive been working through the armstrong books solo for months and it is TEDIOUS! These videos are so much more digestible and easy to understand. Are you a professor somewhere? or did you go to school to learn design?
My Pleasure! The Armstrong book is one of my go-to sources for pattern drafting... I am self taught with help from a good friend who was the top technical designer at the GAP. He has been helping me out of my drafting and fitting dilemmas for years! I've been at this for a long time... taking a "break" from j stern designs when I had the opportunity to teach Fashion Design for Gibbs College a while back. My goal is to "simplify" the techniques in books like the Armstrong book... Thanks for fitting along with me