Spraying Epoxy Primer & Applying Fiberglass Filler
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- čas přidán 18. 01. 2023
- Part 18 LH Torana Restoration Project
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You are easily more experienced and successful than any morons being negative on here. Really appreciate what I've learnt from you!
I reckon there's so many videos on CZcams featuring metal-finished huge-dollar cars that a proper home-grown restoration like this brings negative comments. I also reckon the negative commentators have never restored anything automotive in their lives. This LH will look drop-dead stunning when Gunny finishes it
Hey Gunny, for me these restoration videos are some of the best you’ve made, keep up the great work.
Thanks Gunny, It's always a therapy session watching you work.
Coming along nice - thanks for taking us along
Thanks for the update on your car , comming on really good 👍 Gunny thank you..
The work is coming along. Awesome my brother, good job can’t wait to see it completed.😊
Looking good! I found a kit for drywall sanding that consisted of a bucket with some fittings in the lid and a length of flexible hose. You filled the bucket half full of water, put the lid on, attached your shop vac to a fitting that stays above the water. The other fitting has a bit of hose that extends under the water. Attach the flexible hose and use that to pick up the bulk of the sanding dust. Easy to make one yourself and captures all that dust in the water. My leaf blower took care of the rest - taking care not to blow away the things you want to keep. That dust goes everywhere but then so does clear coat overspray and it sticks to everything (LOL).
Nice…Keep it going! Just got my FLG-G5 in after watching your reviews on it. Can’t wait to shoot some primer now 🍻
Been following you for a while now, love your videos bud, awesome content keep them coming 👌🏼
Loving these videos on your own car Gunny. Keep them coming buddy
Here's a good trick for your body fillers. Go to your local supermarket or electrical store and buy a cheap handheld cake/bread mixer with dough hooks and use it on your body filler comes out smooth in no time. I'm really enjoying the series Gunny
Why not go whole hog and use a cement mixer 🤣🤣
Looking good to me as long as it rust free some primer and a good key to Bond to it will stay there for as long as you want can't wait to see how it looks finished 👍👍👍
I hope the epoxy primer does work, there's always new things to learn....
Some coments said the fiberglass will shrink, the easy solution is to grind the fiberglass back a little low and mix up polyester resin catalyst mix, and brush it over the fiberglass, sealing the repair airtight, stops it shrinking and sinking, once dry, key with 40-80 blow off before poly filler,.
Alternative way to welding the dent is . polyester resin/catalyst mix and use Core Mat to fill the depth of the dents, then fiberglass mud, or fiberglass mud & poly filler mix on top
Loving the videos, Im only trying to see what gun I might buy next and now I'm way down a different path watching restoration yaas 👍
Very good! A little filler here and there is all part of the journey👍
Yes indeed!
Its getting there brother....I can't wait for the first coat of base....
Keeping it real as always Gunny, yeh there's always the "other way" but that's not always available for us for what ever reason👍👍👍👍👍
Smash into it gunny! My zg fairlane boot needed a full skim of bog because every glue to the rear reinforcement was a freaking high spot that wouldn't hammer down. I now use blue oxide dust wiped on the bog with a rag for guide coat then use a speed file on its side to see the low spots.
I was using matte black for guide coat and found it would screw me over clogging up my sand paper.
The learning curve never stops with this s**t
The Gunman still rules...seems nobody stays more current and on top of the game.
hey man at least your doing it over epoxy.
The amount of resto shops that i have been and worked at that would do full restorations on bare metal was astonishing.
The final product is going to be mint
Most people commenting negatively,have zero clue of how the auto body industry works,there is million dollar cars at auction with body filler many of them with over 1/4 inch of mud.
As I said before, nothing wrong with filler if it's applied correctly. No way would I apply filler over epoxy without lightly sanding surface first to avoid possible adhesion problems later.
@@SalvageMasterEssex but how do you know there might be adhesion problems,you don't know,so for that you get three Pinocchio's.🤥🤥🤥
@@SalvageMasterEssex there is a window that you can apply body filler to epoxy without having to sand
Dx 579 followed by dx 520. Dx579 is a metal cleaner and metal neutralizer. Rinse with hot water and dry with rags. Dx 520 is a zinc phosphoric in a bottle. Rinse with water and dry. Made by Chem fill. Better product. Then epoxy. Wait 24 hours before putting on body filler.
@@markcooper1947 I know that, but still wouldn't apply filler until epoxy has fully cured and even then in my opinion surface still needs keying. If you're investing a lot of time and money in a paint job why take the risk of problems at a later date.
Nice work Gunny. Can’t wait for the first coat of base to go on. Get on with the filler will ya. 😂😂 keep the content coming mate.
I've used the Bondo green fiberglass before on almost golf ball dent on a motorcycle tank. Held fine. Dries rock hard.
G'day Mr Gunman.
Things are progressing nicely. Thanks for sharing another episode.
✌️ Peace from Melbourne 3810.
Seems like you are progressing well there Gunny, nothing wrong with using filler providing what's under it is prepped correctly and the filler is mixed and applied correctly which of course yours is👌keep it up mate👏👍John UK.
I wouldn't risk plastering fibreglass or filler over epoxy without sanding to key surface first. Maybe you can get away with it but in my opinion it isn't worth the risk.
@@SalvageMasterEssex Not to mention the controversy of "bondo over epoxy or on bare metal."
Way to go Gunny.
Painting a VW Atlas listening to this :) thanks for the content gunny
Powering ahead now Gunny. I reckon I might just beat you to roadworthy but you'll be painted first. Mipa 2k epoxy going on the inside next week, tho I wish I'd found that zinc stuff instead. exterior paint will have to wait till winter now.
Anyway keep up the good work, it's fun having someone to pace against.
Your getting some progress on the big girl mate awesome work 👍
Thanks mate 😃 it's a labour of love.
@@TheGunmanChannel it sure is man 👍
Hell yea gunny. 🤘 yea at tafe on big repairs they say n we used fibre glass filler b4 bog. Spot on mate. Hard to find an old car without bog. Back in the day it was used more then they had to. 🤣🤣
What particular degreaser do you recommend after sanding before applying epoxy primer? Also, when sanding the rust off the metal, do you recommend finishing it off with a fine high grit sand paper to get it ultra smooth or it’s not necessary? Thanks!
My go-to is always been the fiberglass filler or as people call it cat hair I've always found the product to be good and reliable over just regular Bondo just because of the fiberglass mixed in with it at such it all just comes down to preparation and body work for it to work correctly and last a long time can't wait to see the end result of this car
great video...
Always like to watch your videos. We’ll done!
Not on topic but I'm wondering if you may have a recommend. I'm looking at a new gun or possibly just a new air cap, my current gun a devilbiss gfg 516 1.4 fluid tip it shoot's nice but with a fairly narrow fan pattern I would like a wider up to 12" fan is that possible with this model? Thank for the informative videos.
Honestly mate, I'd email Chris at info@spraygunsdirect.co.uk let him know I sent you, I can guarantee he will point you in the right direction. Tell him exactly what you said to me
Your videos inspired me to spray my nova in my garage 2/3 years ago during the hieght of covid…..its the car in the lil pic next to my name……now im getting ready to spray my ‘73 c/10 short bed fleetside….in gonna go with an ultra pure white with blue ghost pearl in the clear…..also gotta paint my road glide
Gunmen hard job indeed getting it back to the original condition without all that big in it well done keep it going wear that mask indeed A1
If you have a new panel in ecoat and needs a skim do you need to epoxy it before put filler skim
Key the surface,. Epoxy primer then skim.....
Gud vid 👌👍🔥
Your car, do as you wish. Great work.
Have a question about guns. I have tekna prolite that I bought maybe 5 or 6 years ago, and now I see everyone has a devilbiss prolite. Is there an actual difference in the guns or did they just drop the "tekna" name?
Tekna was an American thing, I'm from Australia so it was never tekna, I'm pretty sure it's exactly the same gun, just a minor rename.
Yeah, I use fiberglass all the way through till I'm straight then skim with filler.. every weld job gets glass over the welded area. I only use glass on bare metal. No sense in putting Porous filler down first. I live in the rust belt & mostly do rust repairs & partial paints. It has worked great bonds like crazy.. Bondoglass works for me, shapes down with 40 real fast.. When i get down tight on some panels I also add a little resin to make it smoother.
Good luck
Hi gunman, U don't have to justify YOUR work to everyone out there . Its fine . I have panel beated a great deal of Holden s and Ford's in the 80,s people used and abused them. Very few were really looked after . If they were that well loved we would nt have seen so many go through the crusher . All to do with lots of money now days. I know I save d a few . Rob
Hey gunmam, got a question for you. Recently sand blasted and painted a trailer and it rusted quickly. I use zinc primer and polyurethane top coat. I did not treat the bare metal before priming with zinc primer. What could I have done to prevent the rapid rusting??
Sherwin Williams always had the best vinyl wash primer. The best thing I know of to keep rust from spreading.
How much time elapsed between sand blasting and prime and paint? Also do you live in a high humidity climate?
@@luisvega1294 about 2-3 days. Dry conditions. Warm weather. No rust was present when I layer down the zinc primer. All products Cloverdale Paints. Airless sprayer.
@@luisvega1294 im thinking I should have wiped it down with something? Like vinyl wash or something.
2-3 days for one is way to long! 2-3 hrs would be too long..in my area..oxidation begins immediately upon exposure ..i use to use a metal prep than a galva prep wash scrubbed in/cleaned with a scotchbrite red for additional corrosion protection.. But if you paint directly after blasting and dont touch metal with your bare hands use a good eppxy primer make sure you have good coverage with the prime and paint you will have much better results/longevity of your efforts when not using a metal clean and galv or zinc chemical solution...pre scrub to painting..again my opinion is you left the metal bare way too long and surface rust was there you didnt see oxidizing already..hope this helps some for your next adventure! Now get out there and paint some shit!! Right Gunny??😉
Cant see the reason to use fibre glass filler,harder to sand heaps of pin holes?
Great work, love watching your videos. Im currently restoring a 1991 80 series landcruiser and want to spray an Epoxy primer in my garage. Did you say that the Quarts brand is iso free ?. Must be better for your health if that's the case. Keep doing what your doing and stuff the Haters.
Yes it's iso free. Awesome stuff too.
I have precisely the same ebay Infrared Lamps as you. Not up to the standards of your Anest Iwata shortwaves in your workshop are they? Too thick of a 2k primer and some bubbles appear.
Looking good brother nice work
🤣🤣
Hey.do U use normal body filler over primer or bare metal only?? Seems to be a debate about this subject.like your work.Cool
I would say best over epoxy primer. That's why I did it this way.
Hi Gunman.. keep up awesome work your doing on the Torana. Would like some advice on the best OEM seam sealer ?
Let me know weather to a paint supplier or Supercheap, Repco,Autobahn ?
I got 3M sausage MSP sealer I would avoid the cheap stuff.
@@TheGunmanChannel Appreciate that… can you tell me best supplier to purchase from ? I’m located in Melbourne, sth/east.
@@megakransky7 I got it from Jefferson paint supplies, I'm pretty sure they sell directly to the public. And I found the best gun was the cheap one from Bunnings. Less than $5
Always does the same with epoxy and fiberglass no problem at all
Take a look at Dave's Garage , he's restoring a Mk 1 Escort here in the UK . Old cars rust much worse than they do in Oz.
How long can a car stay outdoors if epoxy coated?
I’m beater by trade I’ve moved from smash to resto I’ve found the best all round epoxy is protec para glaze can be used wet on wet or dry sanded with filler over it works well I like your idea of putting glass on wet or not fully dry primer for adhesion personally I’d be scared of sink back as when the epoxy drys underneath it over time maybe I’m wrong as when you take the top off the glass it will be porous there for if you let it sit over night the epoxy should dry before you apply body filler and high build primer
Hi gunni we used to call fiberfill panel in a can man
Ямки на багажнике нужно было вдавливать шпатлевкой (заполонить все по максимуму) а потом уже закидывать их!
👏😄
Try putting lacquer thinner on a rag once ur mud sets it will remove that resin on the surface so won't clog ur sandpaper
You can just put a little bit of thinners in your body filler when mixing it up, to thin the filler down will have more consistency, easier to spread especially with bigger bog jobs rather do this way than using dolphin glaze. Hope it helps mate
@@altang3355 I've tried that before, it doesn't work...the filler doesn't set up properly....
@@SNAFU.. it works, probably not adding enough hardener
@@altang3355 I've tried it.. It doesn't work ....no matter how much hardener you use .....
@@SNAFU.. what thinners are you using?
No way is that Fiberglass EVER coming off that epoxy (unless grinding is involved 😁)
Exactly!!!
I like it, there are $3k jobs & then $10k jobs. Not all cars are classic with all steel panels and all cars have some filler.
🤝👏👏👍🇧🇷🇧🇷
Takes 5 seconds to run some red scotch brite over it first just to be sure ..
I was the 900th like on this video letssss fucking gooooo
Hahaha thanks mate 👊
@@TheGunmanChannel 💘
I thought kitty hair was a NO NO over epoxy? Everything i read said so. Your TDS said it`s ok?
Yeah it's all good, holding up well after a year too. No shrinkage!!
Sweet
Have also seen comments on other posts where the bodyman used polyester resin to make their body filler thinner,andyou see the haters saying oh my gosh he just ruined the body filler,I see it as how did he ruin it,if polyester resin,is a key ingredient for polyester body filler.
Exactly, I say whatever works, and you know what, even if it doesn't work then at least you learnt that it doesn't work 😂
It mixes in and sets up nice but makes the filler a lot more brittle and creates air pockets. Can become almost like glass.... Always best to use a glaze if you want a more self leveling top filler.
@@SNAFU..hu no it doesn't become more brittle at all,it causes no pinholes ,and that's what glaze is,it's over reduced filler.wow like glass obviously you have zero clue of what ur saying.
@@filibertobarrera7672 Hahahee! That's right zero clue....you half arsed numpty!
@@filibertobarrera7672 How long have you been in the game? 3-4 months...you have a lot to learn about fillers bro. If you think a self leveling filler just has extra polyester resin added to it, you are a total nutjob! It affects the flexibility of the filler and creates excess pin holes....these are the facts...take it or leave it!