Removing and replacing the front screws holding the gas tank is a frustrating experience on my 1990 Big Bear 350. So I devised a way to make the experience much less painful for the next time I have to remove the tank. To aid in removing the front bolts on the gas tank, I drilled a 7/8" hole, using a sharp 7/8"paddle wood bit, through the fender just out front of the bolts. This allows a socket/ratchet to be inserted very easily. And even though the holes aren't unsightly, I order a small package of 7/8" black hole plugs on Ebay to insert in the holes. Removing those two bolts was the only frustrating part of my carburetor rebuild........good luck guys! And adventurous gals!! And even those that can't decide what they are.......
Just did a carb rebuild on my 2003 Kodiak 400. I made one mistake that cost me time - I switched out the needles and jets without looking closely at the jet aperture diameters and installed them wrong which made it bog down at high revs. After I pulled it again and swapped them she ran great. I also bent the float tang so there is no longer any leaking from the overflow tube. Be very careful removing the tank so you don't damage the petcock and plastic extension. I found mine had already been glued and I had to re-epoxy it. If it fails again I may devise my own.
@ringbolt9 always best to follow manufacturer's recommendations. some recommend synthetic, hd 30 some 5w30 etc. for most small engines i use hd 30, 10w30 and 5w30 and i don't really worry too much about the oil rating unless it is fairly new
I just ordered the parts to fix my carb the diaphram needle/seat gaskets O-rings came out to $110.00 at the dealer in Ontario. I will reuse the jets after a good cleaning. I have been using Benjamin Moore oil and grease emulsifier to clean carbs for the last year with good results I put 3 capfuls mixed in 1-2 litres of hot water then soak carb in small container cleans out a carb in 5-15 minutes. I have cleaned out 40 small carbs and still have lots left in the jug. The product will bubble as it works and is safe on rubber parts after it stops bubbling I remove the carb and blow everything out with air.
Thanks a lot man, that's what I was looking for, I have kodiak 400 with same carb, just needed to clean it out, also I'm missing plastic thing around jet, will that give me any trouble if I don't have it!?
I Have a 96 Kodiak 4x4 400 with the same ( rebuilt myself ) WONDERFUL!!!!!!!!! Thanks a lot man, that's what I was looking for, I have kodiak 400 with same carb, just needed to clean it out, also I'm missing plastic thing around jet, will that give me any trouble if I don't have it!?
hey buddy . heres a question about oil. different ppl say diff things about what oil to use in small. engines. like not ot use detergent oils in old motors. and should you use mulitviscosity as opposed to just straight 30. thanks.
I have a yamaha warrior and my carb has been giving me problems it looks like my needle is bent. Also my warrior has the same engine but is a sport quad. Mine has the twin cables so I just remove it from the cable splitter. If you could check out my latest video I would really appreciate it.
i have a 400 ex took carb off not sure were the one line goes theres 3 one is overflow othe hooks to tank then there is one that has 2 lines that conect into one cant get it to start so thinking that might be it it turns over but wont start
I have a little question, my father recently bought a YAMAHA Big Bear 1997 ang after the fuel cock level in the fuel hose to the carburator it has some sort of filter, a friend told me it is a car fuel filter and it migh not work ok, I was wondering if you know some sort of serial or model of this because all I know about mechanics is what I learned from the manual.
400 ex took carb off not sure were the one line goes theres 3 one is overflow othe hooks to tank then there is one that has 2 lines that conect into one cant get it to start so thinking that might be it it turns over but wont start
Thank you for the video good job. I have a 350 Big Bear and while I was trying to start the engine it would only run for a few seconds. The small of gas was very strong. I removed the seat and the air filter housing and ¼ of the housing was filled with gas/oily mixture of some sort. I keep the machine in the shop so there was no water in the system but it would not run very well at all. After removing the gas and cleaning up the machine I removed the crank case breather hose and while starting the engine it was running a lot better, but the hose was blowing gas and oil out of the breather hose. The longer I let it run the more gas came out until after 30 minutes it slow down and stopped. After 1 hour there was only a drop every two seconds coming out of the breather hose. The question is what caused it and what do I need to do to make it work better? I did let it run for about 2 to 3 hours. Any help would be great. Thank you for your videos.
No maam...... Just remove the gas tank and easy access will be found. Refer to my comment above for a tip on removing the front two screws that secure the tank. It makes it so much easier for this time and the next!
Removing and replacing the front screws holding the gas tank is a frustrating experience on my 1990 Big Bear 350. So I devised a way to make the experience much less painful for the next time I have to remove the tank. To aid in removing the front bolts on the gas tank, I drilled a 7/8" hole, using a sharp 7/8"paddle wood bit, through the fender just out front of the bolts. This allows a socket/ratchet to be inserted very easily. And even though the holes aren't unsightly, I order a small package of 7/8" black hole plugs on Ebay to insert in the holes. Removing those two bolts was the only frustrating part of my carburetor rebuild........good luck guys! And adventurous gals!! And even those that can't decide what they are.......
I love my Yamaha atvs. My 1996 big bear with hi-lo tranny is a beast but I love the way my 07 big bear with the independent rear suspension rides.
Just did a carb rebuild on my 2003 Kodiak 400. I made one mistake that cost me time - I switched out the needles and jets without looking closely at the jet aperture diameters and installed them wrong which made it bog down at high revs. After I pulled it again and swapped them she ran great. I also bent the float tang so there is no longer any leaking from the overflow tube. Be very careful removing the tank so you don't damage the petcock and plastic extension. I found mine had already been glued and I had to re-epoxy it. If it fails again I may devise my own.
@ringbolt9 always best to follow manufacturer's recommendations. some recommend synthetic, hd 30 some 5w30 etc. for most small engines i use hd 30, 10w30 and 5w30 and i don't really worry too much about the oil rating unless it is fairly new
Great series! Really helped me a lot! I managed to take apart, clean, and re-assemble my carb. Runs like a champ now.
@jamesrwv it just hangs down the back of the engine, it's an overflow hose only, it doesn't connect to anything
@jtmagicman25 i believe it's just a vent hose, i don't think it connects to anything
I just ordered the parts to fix my carb the diaphram needle/seat gaskets O-rings came out to $110.00 at the dealer in Ontario. I will reuse the jets after a good cleaning. I have been using Benjamin Moore oil and grease emulsifier to clean carbs for the last year with good results I put 3 capfuls mixed in 1-2 litres of hot water then soak carb in small container cleans out a carb in 5-15 minutes. I have cleaned out 40 small carbs and still have lots left in the jug. The product will bubble as it works and is safe on rubber parts after it stops bubbling I remove the carb and blow everything out with air.
@ShadowBmx1995 PRETTY WELL IS, JUST THINGS MAY BE PLACED DIFFERENTLY AND HAVE VARIOUS CARBS
donyboy73
Rebld,rearend
What great videos you produce!! Can you tell me what the tube is that you pulled off the top of the carb first? (clear line)
@donyboy73 thanx. I thought that too at first, then I wandered if it was a vacuum line or somethin.
@SuperBarbara19 all i have is those 3 videos, i don't have the atv here anymore
Thanks a lot man, that's what I was looking for, I have kodiak 400 with same carb, just needed to clean it out, also I'm missing plastic thing around jet, will that give me any trouble if I don't have it!?
I Have a 96 Kodiak 4x4 400 with the same ( rebuilt myself ) WONDERFUL!!!!!!!!!
Thanks a lot man, that's what I was looking for, I have kodiak 400 with same carb, just needed to clean it out, also I'm missing plastic thing around jet, will that give me any trouble if I don't have it!?
thanks nice video. i have to do this to my 95 as well.
Great video. The '99 Big Bear carburetor is much easier to remove.
hey buddy . heres a question about oil. different ppl say diff things about what oil to use in small. engines. like not ot use detergent oils in old motors. and should you use mulitviscosity as opposed to just straight 30. thanks.
I have a yamaha warrior and my carb has been giving me problems it looks like my needle is bent. Also my warrior has the same engine but is a sport quad. Mine has the twin cables so I just remove it from the cable splitter. If you could check out my latest video I would really appreciate it.
i have a 400 ex took carb off not sure were the one line goes theres 3 one is overflow othe hooks to tank then there is one that has 2 lines that conect into one cant get it to start so thinking that might be it it turns over but wont start
I just bought one these wheelers I need to know what that bottom line goes too off that carb mines missing and I can’t find an unplugged line
I have a little question, my father recently bought a YAMAHA Big Bear 1997 ang after the fuel cock level in the fuel hose to the carburator it has some sort of filter, a friend told me it is a car fuel filter and it migh not work ok, I was wondering if you know some sort of serial or model of this because all I know about mechanics is what I learned from the manual.
400 ex took carb off not sure were the one line goes theres 3 one is overflow othe hooks to tank then there is one that has 2 lines that conect into one cant get it to start so thinking that might be it it turns over but wont start
Thank you for the video good job. I have a 350 Big Bear and while I was trying to start the engine it would only run for a few seconds. The small of gas was very strong. I removed the seat and the air filter housing and ¼ of the housing was filled with gas/oily mixture of some sort. I keep the machine in the shop so there was no water in the system but it would not run very well at all. After removing the gas and cleaning up the machine I removed the crank case breather hose and while starting the engine it was running a lot better, but the hose was blowing gas and oil out of the breather hose. The longer I let it run the more gas came out until after 30 minutes it slow down and stopped. After 1 hour there was only a drop every two seconds coming out of the breather hose. The question is what caused it and what do I need to do to make it work better? I did let it run for about 2 to 3 hours. Any help would be great.
Thank you for your videos.
you need to replace the engine oil and the needle and seat in the carb
what is the clear/ redish brown hose coming off the back of the carb go to? the one @ 1:39
jtmagicman25 that’s the bowl overflow drain I believe
dO YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE WHOLE FRONT END ASSY ON 1988 YAMAHA 350 IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE CARBURETOR
No maam...... Just remove the gas tank and easy access will be found. Refer to my comment above for a tip on removing the front two screws that secure the tank. It makes it so much easier for this time and the next!
is that a 350 or 400 cuz my bike looks alittle bigger
I think it's a 400
i think 1 1/2
😅😅😅😅😅😂😂😂😂
is it just me, or is that a big carburetor?
it's big lol
Mu