Make A Badge
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- For his Halfwood Etching Press Line, Bill Ritchie makes etched, solid brass badges by transferring original badge designs from his computer to metal plates. He prints the design on silicone-coated paper with a laser printer, fuses the toner to a brass plate, and etches it in ferric chloride. This ten-minute video shows exactly how he does it in his workshop - from beginning to end.
This is straight up old school MasterClass tutorial made by dude that Knows what he is talking about! A true rare gem in today's "everyone is an expert" society.
You earned another subscriber. Well done sir.
What a great way to start my day - thank you Mr. Rodriguez, and I hope your days reward you in big ways. - Bill
Wow. Thank you for showing all the steps, sir. A lot of work goes into your machine, and this is just the badge! Amazing!
Yes, and I am doing it still! A press from 2006 came back for resale, and it's great to get back into it. Did you say something about Vietnam brooms? My broom is from Thailand, I bought it on Earthday in 2009.
@@BillRitchie
Oh, neat. I hear that has happened before, that you get back presses people no longer use; interesting.
And, yes, I did mention brooms our Vietnamese family uses (it could be that the broom isn't made in Vietnam but was bought in an Asian market). Is the broom from Thailand biodegradable?
your video, your teaching and you clear understanding of your subject...is a Master Class. Thanks for sharing your hard earned knowledge with all of us. THANK YOU!!!!
To read your compliment early in the morning makes my day! Grateful in Seattle. - Bill
This might be the best tutorial I've ever seen - on any subject. Great style, and it answered all my questions. Well done, and thank you.
I thank you, too, for your compliments. - Bill
Well said Dave, same for me.
Your workmanship is superb. The badges are wonderful and your press is a piece of art. Well done. If only all CZcams videos were to your standard and quality
Yours is among the nicest compliments I've ever received, it makes the work worth having done. - Bill
I've watched a lot of videos that cover similar techniques and this was by far the most informative.
Thank you Mr. Walker, I appreciate your comment - I have been considering cleaning up the audio with some of the new software out there, and you encourage me. - B
This video is truly exemplary in instruction, presentation, and detail. Nothing is left to question. You are a gifted teacher - I just wish CZcamsrs could do half as well as you. My hat's off to you, Bill. I found the topic very interesting and I may just take up a project.
What a wonderful compliment, Michael Riddell - thank you - and if you do a project, let me know. - B
Thank you for posting this, Bill. I liked everything about this video, right down to the clarity and timbre of your voice. The captioning was a very nice touch also. And, of course, the craftsmanship was excellent. Bravo!
Excellent well thought out video, thanks Bill.
Wow, thank you for the compliment! and you'r about the 123,664th person to view it - my "best seller" ha ha. - BR
This is the best tutorial I have seen for making badges, which is what I've been wanting to do for my handmade jewelry. I love etching, but have not used many of the techniques you demonstrated. I love how clearly you describe everything you are doing and tell exactly what products you are using. You are a great artist and teacher. Thank you so much for sharing!
Thank you, I hope it's helpful - send questions and thoughts anytime and I'll try to answer. - B
Hello. How you're doing with your jewerly?
Can we apply the etching on gold plated metal?
@@mateusdovale5863 You can transfer laser prints to any metal, I believe, even gold and you may also etch it with a gold etchant.
Excellent video! Clear, ordered, concise.
Hey, thanks for the compliment - it seems to be holding up after four years! Good luck, Happy New Year! - BR
WONDERFUL TUTORIAL AND WONDERFUL WORK !
Thank you, I appreciate your compliment. - Bill
Impressive craftsmanship and video/instruction technique!
wow, that is beautiful work. If this is just the badge, I imagine the presses themselves are works of art and love.
Dear Sir, This is the best method I ever seen in my life, I am also a traditional printer & book binder by profession and I am maintaining my father's old platen printing press in my place. Your video is very informative for me. I follow your your method to make blocks for printing and embossing on book cover. Thank you very much for your amazing video. I am your fan. Rajoo
I am confused, but I think I understand. Thank you - B
Ingenious Bill! Fantastic tutorial!
Thank you, PR! - B
Best video I’ve seen, thanks for sharing your lifetime of knowledge
you are welcome, I appreciate your compliment. - B
Thanks for doing this. I found it extremely interesting. The use of rosin dust was new to me.
When people used to love their work.
Right and true. I am finding kids love it, because to them it is not work. Me too! Thank you, Driss Benzine.
@@BillRitchie thank you for responding Mr Ritchie. You remind me of my grandfather. He was a woodworker. But the way he loved his work is impossible. That's why I know your generation is really can't be replaced.
@@raol635 A few years ago, when she was 3, a little girl's grandfather died and she has adopted me! i seldom see her, but she inspired me to write a book, imagining myself as she saw me, but writes as a 24-year-old in 2041 - when I might live to see at 100. Now all I want to do is make stories and printing presses for her generation, gamify it, and make subscription boxes for these families.
Totally wonderful video, with all the steps! Who would have thought soy sauce as a cleaner! :) Thanks!
Thank you, sir, for sharing your hard works. God bless you, sir. Love to see more from you.
This really is a welcome compliment, Thien Duc Nguyen, I appreciate your good wishes. - Bill
Thanks Bill
That was awesome!
I loved the detail of your instructions, you are a great teacher.
What a great thing to be told, first thing in the morning. Thank you!
Fine craftsmanship and excellent video work, Thanks.
Thank you for the compliment, Larry Will. - B
This was superb!
Thank you for your compliment.
I was considering making a drum set out of scratch and this really helped me out a lot thank you so much
I hope it works for you.
best video on etching i've seen on youtube. Thank you...
Amazing to see what a fine piece of art even a simple badge can be. That's why i like old stuff from the 19th century ♥
Well done. Very well done. Kudos.
Wonderful! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you, Lawrence Lamb, I appreciate your watching it. -b
I love your video! Amazing step by step instructions. Thank you!
Thank you, it was a pleasure - and maybe you're the 99,371st person to view it. I never imagined . . .
Thank You for a complete explanation Very Good Tutorial
Thank you, Cliff Farion - I appreciate it! - b
Very good, very good, excellent Work!
thanks very much . so beautiful. thanks SIR Bill Ritchie
Great tutorial Bill. Thanks.
I am grateful for your compliment, I thank you. - BR
Thank you 8)
That is fantastic. You have a real talent.
Thank you for the compliment, Tale Gunner - I coudn't have done it without a lot of friends' helpful hints. - B
i like your video and it inspires me to try etching replicas of old coins. i tried years ago to make electrotypes of old coins but failed. 😃
Thanks. I wish I had some tips but I haven't. All I can say is the ancients never used electroforming or etching - all sculpture in miniature, so you might look into lost wax casting and cast two sides of your coin and solder them into one. - BR
That was a very good tutorial!
Thank you, Phillipp Boetcher! - BR
such a good tutorial
Thank you, BTW, the picture attached to your comment looks like a kid. I am working on a printmaking teachers in a subscription box for kids and grandparents.
Excellent Video , Very well explained!!!!
Thank you for that! - BR
Very nicely done!!
thanks bill very informative tutorial.
Thank you for the additional info, Jerry.
Nice demo. thanks!
You are welcome! - BR
Good video.It shows every steps. (This process is similar to PCB making. )
I like it. Thank you.
I am so glad - let me know if I can do anything more. - Bill
Excellent Video , Very well explained, Lots of great information./ Thanks Very Much!
great work, you are a true craftsman
Thank you, your compliment comes at a good time. - Bill
Im sure it was no accident, many people such as myself have seen this video and dont feel the need to state the obvious. But something compelled me to point out your obvious passion you have for detail. over 70 thousand views is quite an accomplishment! God bless you.
Thanks again, and for the blessings! - B
السلام عليكم ورحمة الله عمل رائع جدا احييك من قلب العالم مكة المكرمة
I wish my device could translate this.
Explained well
Thank you.
Nice work..!
well made to the point and informative. will be saving this video for rewatching. there's a few techniques here I've not come across before.
do you know if an ink jet printer can be used instead and could a heat gun or iron be used to do the transfer instead of a laminator?
Thank you sir.. this is truly awesome.
You are welcome, thank you for the compliment. - B
Nice video......
Thanks, Tarman Tarman - B
That was great! Amazing workmanship. Any ideas of how one could darken the etch if it didn't come out as dark as they wanted?
If I could see the project, I might have an idea. If the etched area is big, one can scratch the metal with many lines and crosshatching, called drypoint. Use a sharp, hard steel needle. Does this help?
Great explanation,thanks.
You're welcome.
Thank you
You are welcome. - B
Very nice. Thank you
I'm glad you like it, thank you. - B
GREAT Badges, GREAT Video Presentation, GREAT Press's.!!!
...If you add into your Artwork a Circle Line the thickness of your Metal used and
same distance Away from required finished Size, after initial Etching, Stopout all but
the added line and return into the Etching fluid you can watch the clear tape and see when
your badge/s is Chemically Milled, Is it worth a try???
GEOFF NOLL thanks, I'm kinda confused but I'll give it some thought. I appreciate yours. - Bill
I'll give your suggestions some thought.
G'day Bill, i Luv the Rembrandt and your Multicolour Etching, the're now in my bucket list.!!
Mini-Press, is Awesome,!! ... Adding 2 to 5% Nitric to FC helped me on Brass, Copper, Anodised or not
Aluminium, & Stainless Steel, Brushed or Smooth, Temperature never seemed to matter,
(room temp seemed to be O.K.) ... I'm gathering needed bits to do some Etching again, attempting
to attain Hairline Resolution.!! ...I want Badges for my Wood Turnings.!!
I'm happy to help, Cheers, Geoff
Nice and clear presentation and some very good tips. One question. What is exactly the purpose of the 50% rosin dust coating and the second etch? Obviously it does crate a texture inside the already etched areas, but what is the advantage of this vs a smooth surface?
I make the badges more contrasty by inking with etching ink, and without the texture, the ink is easily wiped out. Texture grabs the ink, like sandpaper, and holds it. Not needed in lines, but open areas it's a must.
@@BillRitchie Thank you, Bill, for the prompt answer. I fill the etched or engraved voids with epoxy mixed with black powder (as used for inkjet refills) wipe it with a sharp knife or razor blade and once dry I fine sand the whole. The epoxy fills nicely any cavity (a drop can be added with a toothpick after wiping if too much removed) and any excess above the surface is sanded. Looks almost like enamel when finished.
@@billastolfo3052 Thank you, that's a good idea! - B
very nice. I have a South Bend brass machine plate I'm restoring. It has raised lettering etc. The originals have paint in the low lying areas. I tried painting once and scraping the high spots but I think my paint was too thick. Do you have any paint recommendations ..... a thin yet bold paint seems to be what I'm after..... maybe. Any experience with older restorations
thanq sir.very using video.
Thanks for sharing!! Would this work with nickel silver alloy?
No, I do not think so because nickel silver, while it may accept the laser toner image, requires a strong etchant. I don't think ferric chloride will etch it. Nitric acid in some solution might, but I have no experience in etching nickel silver or any alloy like it.
This video is amazing, great work. I have a question though? What do you use after the aquatint etching? And how do you apply it to darken the etched areas?
Lately I have been rubbing black etching ink into the etched areas, and the aquatint helps hold it. When I am sure the etched areas are filled with ink, then I wipe the surface with the flat of a small piece of 4-ply mat board. The board is thick, so it doesn't wipe out the ink. I put a piece of gripper vinyl under the piece so it won't slip around. It takes forever to dry; it could be speedier if cobalt dryer were added the ink.
Hi Bill, Quick question regarding the paper you use. Once printed, are you leaving it to dry before the transfer? My toner doesn't appear to be drying like yours is. What would I be doing wrong? Left it for 20mins so far.
This confuses me. I don't understand toner "drying." I use silicon-coated paper. With a black-and-white laser printer (not an inkjet printer, which uses wet ink and squirts it on the paper) I print the image. It emerges dry on the paper. Then, into the hot transfer device facing my metal. Out it comes, the laser toner melts and sticks to the metal - it hardly sticks to the silicon-coated paper at all. In fact, nothing does! Having written this, I get a feeling you are using an inkjet printer. In that case you want to use photopolymer etching techniques - inkjet is perfect for this. I picked a video at random - there are hundreds to watch. czcams.com/video/GyeU5PcV4AY/video.html
@@BillRitchie Ahh, that's where I went wrong. Time for a printer upgrade.
Hey Bill, could you use an iron to heat the brass instead of a laminator when transferring the ink from the silicone paper?
It can be done, and that's how I started out. Then I found you can find used laminators really cheap at thrift stores, and the heartbreak of failures using the iron got to be too much. The melting toner gets greasy and slippage is the problem. I've heard of people using other methods, like dry-mounting presses. On tiny projects, like jewelry, an iron might work. - B
Wow, great video. If I may ask one thing - I don't quite understand how
and when the etched part becomes darkened. The dark parts from the
computer printout become light and vice versa. I know to make the image
color reversed but not how to get the recessed part dark post etch. Is
that the role of the aquatint? Thank you for such an informative video, I
have my first etch soaking right now.
I cheated, yes, the aquatint makes the etched-out areas rough enough that when polishing the badge, residue traps in the aquatint. But to make it darker, I ink it with black and, with a chip of matboard, polish the flat parts for optimum contrast. The ink takes "forever" to actually dry to the touch, so it is easily smudged if handled.
Right on, thanks for the answer! Now to find some aquatint.
Great vid --- will this work on steel ?? And then I'm guessing laser is important - no ink jet or toner ???
Trouble with steel is that if you want to etch it you have to use nitric acid, I think, and it will likely heat up the steel and cause the toner to release. As far as printing on steel, should be no problem, but not to etch it like brass. Check around for etching on steel, I just know about nitric.
Thank you.... my electro etch game for negative etch and ferric Chloride for positive etch game is fairly strong using vinyl and my cricut to cut designs... but I cant get the detail you showed here and I'm looking for a way to etch my knife steel with more precision... thanks for the comments and video it definitely gave me ideas and hope to keep pushing forward...
Hello Bill, do you know if this process is applicable to aluminum or steel plating as well? Great tutorial, and very nice results!
You can transfer black-and-white laser toner to any surface that can take the temperature, but you must use etchants only for certain metals AND the etchant cannot remove the toner from the metal. Therefore, an etchant for aluminum, for example, might eat away the toner. Steel's etchant might be Nitric Acid, and it might eat away the toner, too. I don't know, because I only use copper and brass etched with ferric Chloride - like most printmakers.
Thank you for that quick response. I understand, I will perhaps try my hand at using nitric acid or something similar, I'll have to check with my local hardware store on what's actually available in my area. In any case, thank you for the help!
Very thorough presentation of information. I did, however, find the background music not up to the standard I'd expect considering the rest of the video's content.
(Second reply, afterthought) If you live in my area, Seattle, WA, USA, perhaps you are a musician looking to collaborate?
Unfortunately, I live in the metro Detroit area (it's not unfortunate I live here, just so far away!) but there are many options for adding free, uncopyrighted music to your videos. For one, CZcams has a library of music you can use: czcams.com/users/audiolibrarymusic. Additionaly, if you search "royalty free music" you can find many other optoins.
Yeah, I did use some royalty-free music long ago. Every time I wondered who I was ripping off. Nothing's free, imho. Someone's freedom is someone else' prison. My wife got a keyboard and I discovered it was fun (creative?) to improvise ditties. Then I connected the Casio to my computer. Every morning, for five minutes, I'd improvise, record, and turn it off and store the bit, sometimes rating it. After three years of this daily ritual - homage to my muses I have about 900 bits. So when I have time to add "music" to my videos I grab whatever I can from my library and do the best I can. That's all I can do.
Really?? Such a great video with low background music and you think the music is bad? OMG, find something to really criticize.
Really?? Such a great video and you think one little comment is bad? OMG, find something to really criticize.
I have some galvanized steel discs I'd like to use this process on...I presume you have to remove the zinc plating first?
You'd have to know how to etch steel. Zinc etches easily, but I'm not sure about steel. You sure can transfer the toner to galvanized steel, but what to do after that I don't know; someone out there in CZcams land does, I bet.
No worries, sir. If it works out the way I'm hoping, I should have a video up shortly after that.
i want to know about the graphic designing for etching on illustrator......
I use Adobe Illustrator because it makes vector images, sharp edges. The output must be solid and I use a black-and-white printer (old HP 1018) with genuine HP toner, set to darkest level. Go look at circuit board printing videos - that's where I learned.
Will rosin that baseball players use for grip control work as well as ground/powder rosin from Graphic chemical?
I don't know, but I recall there was a pre-powdered rosin sold by GC&I that for some reason wouldn't melt so I thought it didn't work. It had a brown tinge to it, unlike the whitish of rosin I ground with a mortar and pestle. For larger quantities we used an old fashioned meat grinder. Good question, thanks. - b
omg that it so cool
Hi, Bill! Thank you so much for this great tutorial! I am wanting to use this method for small jewelry pendents as small as 16mm diameter circles. I haven't been successful at getting my designs to transfer to the metal except for blotches of it. I don't have a laminator. Do you believe this is my problem? I've tried a regular iron and one, it's hard to keep the print from sliding all over and keeping it centered on my metal circle, and second, as I said, it only partially adheres. Would greatly appreciate your advice on this! And two last things, are you aware whether the silicone-coated paper design will adhere to any metal, and do you know if embossing powder the same as rosin powder?
Thanks Tracy - I'll start with the easy one: I don't know if embossing powder is the same as rosin powder. I grind crystalline rosin sold to printmakers with a mortar and pestle, like many printmakers who do aquatints. Re: metals, yes, the toner/silicone-coated paper works on all metals I think, also wood, etc. whatever can take the heat. If you're stuck with an iron (I used to be and I would never go back) you might try transferring and etching the design on plate metal and then, when done, go back and cut your circles if possible. I never figured out how to start with a circle - too hard as you know. Look for a used laminator if you don't want to buy a new one - it's the best way. - B
Thanks so much for the response, Bill!! Your work is a beautiful work of true artisan! :)
Tracy Grott You could also try the method used to make homemade PCB boards. They use a photoresist sheet. I do not recall the name, but there is a blue film that is pretty popular.
Maybe that is PNP Blue, stands for "Press and Peel" (psst, but I don't like it).
Any news? I would love to know how to transfer directly to circle metals.
Hello. What is the temperature of the laminator? Thank you.
The manufacturer doesn't say, but I estimate it is around 350 degrees f. Hot enough to fuse the plastic of regular laminating sheets, but not hot enough to burn paper. When I started this I used a hand iron set on "high" and it was too hot to control, the image slipped every time. I have seen videos of circuit board makers using hand irons and they made it work using ordinary copier paper and photopapers. Good luck, and thanks for watching.
Mr Ritchie do you make custom jobs? I need a motorcycle badge for each side of the tank created. What would you charge? I already have the artwork
Sorry, Denis, I've disposed of my stuff for what I was doing. If you can make a tank, I bet you can make your own because you can iron on the design printed on circuit board transfer paper from amazon, the metal from KE or a hobby shop, and either ferric chloride from amazon or copper sulfate and hydrochloric acid from a nursery and hardware store (muriatic acid). I saw the instructions online, but I quit doing this stuff. Good Luck, Denis. - B
The first picture looks like lil Dickey
You're right! must be a reincarnation. Ha ha.
PLZ tell me what is rosin dust and what is it used for.
Hi S Foxxy - Rosin is an amber-colored crystal I ground into dust with a mortar and pestle. These fine crystals of rosin are insoluble and have a low melting point - about 300 f. I think. These fall on the plate like dust, with spaces between them - not a solid layer of dust but almost. When the plate is heated, they melt in tiny humps of rosin with spaces all around and between them. When I put the plate in an etchant, in this case, ferric chloride, the etchant eats away the metal around the hump of rosin and, in time, makes the plate like sandpaper, the kind of texture I wanted. In printmaking art it's called aquatint because in the old days they used this method to copy watercolors in printing reproductions. Let me know if this is clear - if not I'll try more. And thanks for watching my video. - Bill
4:3 @ 480p.
back in 1995?
No, not 1995. The first were in 2004.
No, only since 2004.
Please explain more about aquatinting. Where can you buy it?
Lump rosin from Graphic Chemical & Ink Co. www.graphicchemical.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?Search=Yes&sppp=25
Good work brother
i want to know yiu to write name of paper use and name of your printer , please
Try www.amazon.com/Circuit-Board-Thermal-Transfer-Special/dp/B01CGRL2G0/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=SpGwLrwUYjcwrbgoAzsGow&hsa_cr_id=6361841970201&ref_=sb_s_sparkle_slot
[name of it is BCQLI 10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper] and my black-and-white laser printer is an HP-1018 Laser Jet, an old model. It's important not to use substitute toner cartridges, the powder is different.
Sir how to etching on iron sculpture design. 32 mm round iron block .I am coin die engraver but I want to etching design on iron by etching process then I use pinto graph machine for deeping. So please explain how to image transfer on iron and how to etching
Laser toner on silicon coated paper will transfer with heat on any metal, I believe. It is fragile, and must be heated again after transfer to fuse the toner and make it stronger. The problem is iron requires acid etch, such as nitric acid this may be too strong acid for the toner. Other people may have advice, I do not know the answer.
I want to make coin die , I wish I can do with itching .. is it possible ?.
To make a steel die is very expensive, and requires a strong press costing thousands. Etching is to make one at a time.
Hi Again, searched GC&I. What is the full company name please. Thank you.
Graphic Chemical & Ink Co.
Я не пойму, а нафига мазать пластину соевым соусом? (why soy sauce?). Он реально удаляет жир? (It really removes fat?)
Yes, amazing but true. Try it.
@@BillRitchie Вы правы. Соевый соус удаляет жир отлично. Если бы кто рассказал, никогда бы не поверил. Спасибо! (You're right. Soy sauce removes fat perfectly. If someone told me, I would never have believed it. Thank you).
@@euvgeniv7736 Sometimes you must wash wash the plate with Clearwater afterward, because it leaves a kind of residue. I'm glad it worked for you.
@@BillRitchie Yes, the rest is strictly according to your recommendations
Bill would you mind posting the exact model number printer you are using?
Sure, it's a Hewlett Packard 1018. I'm not sure if they still make them, but I've seen them in used places, and I can still get the toner for them 02612A. Be careful you get the real thing, HP 12A, because there are cheap ones which they've put in a chip to make them compatible, which they do, but the toner itself, a black powdered plastic so important to being a resist is not the same. I had a cheap compatible cartridge and the toner turned into goo when I tried to transfer it. Gotta be real HP.
Thanks Bill. I've read that some black and white laser printers won't work. I've wanted to try this for years but not knowing what printer to purchase always turned me off. I wonder if new higher resolution black and white printers exist today that will do the trick?
My knowledge is limited. I have a friend, Ethan Lind, who found a b&w laser printer at a Goodwill store for $5, a Brother or somesuch kind, and it worked for awhile, now he tells me it doesn't. I'm no printer expert. I see, however, there are about 75 used (and one NEW) for sale shown by amazon ranging from $75 to $375. HP stopped making them, but the used ones probably work about like mine. Mine is about 12 years old.
you
This is ok if you have your entire life to etch one thing. There are much better and faster ways
Tell me more, Ryan Hilldale. BTW, you in Florida?
Bill Ritchie .. Google. Ferric chloride works great for non ferrous metals and a simple electro etch/salt water solution for ferrous metals. I can etch anything in less than 5 minutes.
Thanks, Ryan, I'll try that. You have a demo, too? I'll Google it, as suggested. Must be great. Anyway, I'm done making medallions, anyway. Thanks for watching.
Bill Ritchie .. no I dont post videos online. I use a 12v battery charger I got in a pawn shop that cost $30 bucks as my DC power source. Connect the positive lead to the material you want to etch and the negative lead to a hand held gizmo to run current.
hai..can you help me to print my coine
George Mazaul explain more, please.
Very cool. Soy sauce...who woulda thought?!
You are right - for years I used whiting and vinegar, now it's much simpler and cheaper.
Thanks - I learned it from graffitti artists who make stencils on thin brass with printed circuit board methods. b
Rabish prossis
Ingeneous
Bill, thank you SO much for showing us your process. It was incredibly informative!
Thanks, Jimmy, it is gratifying that it's useful to you. - Bill
@@BillRitchie Bill, why does the ferric chloride only etch when the plate is facing down?
@@Jimmy-sb3fc The chemical reaction results in a precipetrate, if the plate is upside down or vertical, if a "bubbler"" keeps the action going, the preciptrate leaves. It left alone, face up, it clogs the etching and stagnates, stopping the etching.
@@BillRitchie Thank you so much!!