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Introduction to the Olympus OM-2N (OM-2n), Video 2 of 2
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- čas přidán 7. 08. 2024
- Olympus revealed the OM-2 to the world as a prototype at Photokina in 1974. The OM-2 arrived, over its life, in three key varieties -- the OM-2, the meter-improved OM-2n, and the OM-2s. Of the three, the OM-2n represented the best combination of features, functionality, and reliability.
Built around an innovative, comprehensive system and a cutting-edge metering system, the OM-2n provided photographers with a meter the likes of which remains unmatched even in 2014 -- 40 years after the prototype's unveiling. It is in no way hyperbolic to say that this camera has the best light meter ever fitted onto a camera.
This video looks at how to use the Olympus OM-2n. The video presents basic details such as lens mounting and unmounting and complex functions like making a double exposure. At the end, I share some sample shots I took with the camera in this video as well as one or two from my black OM-2n.
Video 1 link:
• Introduction to the Ol...
Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:07
Mounting and Unmounting Lenses: 0:36
Loading and Unloading Film: 3:04
Self-timer: 6:23
Changing Batteries: 8:13
Hot Shoe #4 and Flash PC Port: 10:39
Double Exposures: 12:33
Special Features: 15:07
Exposure Compensation: 16:46
The OM2-N's Meter: 21:11
The OM System: 25:42
Through the Viewfinder: 26:10
Questions:27:49
Sample Photos: 28:39
References:
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/...
www.cameramanuals.org/olympus_...
www.cameramanuals.org/olympus_...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympus_...
www.stevehuffphoto.com/2012/05...
photo.net/classic-cameras-foru...
www.scopereviews.com/om.html
www.filmisgood.com/2013/06/12/...
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/...
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/...
My Photography Website:
www.5119photography.com/
My Blog:
beyondbokeh.blogspot.com/
feeds.feedburner.com/BeyondBokeh (reader link)
Follow me on Google+:
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Hi David. Watching these vids took me back to when I was a proud owner of the OM2n. I gave up photography 25 years ago and recently took it up again and took the advice of friends and bought a digital system. Basically I was quite disappointed using digital cameras and was considering giving up again but then I watched these OM2 vids. To cut it short I bought an OM2n from ebay and once again I am loving my photography, I am not in any way a good photographer but I do enjoy what I do. I would like to sincerely thank you for reminding me just how great an OM2n really is. Keep up the good work my friend.
Recently found my OM2 I bought in a charity shop. Shutter was jammed so I put it in my cupboard meaning to fix it when I had time. Three babies and eight years later. I saw your CZcams video and was inspired to get it out and fix it. Ten minutes in to your video I have it up and running and ready to go. It's like new and I can't wait to run a roll through it. Top man David. 👍🏼Thank you for being here.
Thank you, Tam! It's great to hear your OM2 will get some attention!
It's always interesting to hear the historical, design and tech background you include in your videos. They seem very well researched. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! :D
And, yes, the research on these takes some time.
Bought my OM2in the 80’s. Loved it but drifted to the digital world.
Going back to film now and really enjoyed learning more about my Olympus.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you!
I just bought an OM-2N, thanks for this wonderful video David!
VinnyM8 You're very welcome, Vinny. Take great photos!
Thanks David and keep up the good work! Vincent
such an excellent tutorial, this was extraordinarily helpful! Thanks so much.
Thank you and you're very welcome.
Great video! Just bought My om2n, now i can start using it! Thanks!!
Dennis Ivarsson Carlsson You're very welcome. Take great photos!
Hi David, very intresting video's (2/2) ! I will enjoy them more than once. I am waiting for the delivery of a OM2n, and so I will take a step back into the analogue century. You are also very convincing about the OM2n qualities ! I subscribed, take care, greetings, Roger.
Thank you, Roger!
I just got mine, it is really nice. Your video helped me troubleshoot it because the battery is dead so I thought the shutter was jammed or something. I set the shutter to B and it seems to work just fine so I just need some new batteries. Thanks a lot!
Fantastic! These are really great cameras, too.
this video just did wonders for me. THANK YOU!
+Aaron Tolbert You're welcome. Take great photos!
I have both an om 10 and om 2n both are very good camera nice to use and hold well done on your video.
Thank you!
I think the mirror lock up was one of the things left out to keep the camera small.They do have the smoothest mirror mechanism of any SLRs I've used.If I remember right the rewind knob is where it is so you can change film without removing the motor drive plus not having to take it off a tripod.These cameras were designed for professionals.
M Poole Absolutely, yes. The film rewind is in a clever position and the ergonomics are great.
I agree with everything you say about the design. People complain about the shutter speed ring around the lens throat, but it's completely unintuitive to have it on the top plate. Shutter, aperture and focus can all be adjusted intuitively by the left hand along one axis. Having DOF preview button on the lens was a work of genius giving every OM camera DOF preview without needing to build an function for it into the camera body. Lens release on the lens itself makes for much quicker lens changes and less likelihood to drop the lens. Another feature of all the lenses is their apertures were normally open, the camera closes them with a lever during the shot, after which they spring back open under spring pressure which can get lazy but it's of no consequence to the exposure. Some other cameras have lenses where the aperture is closed by the spring, not opened, so a lazy spring or sticky aperture blades can lead to overexposed shots because it doesn't close fast enough during the exposure (hello Minolta). Not so in the OM series. OM = amazing cameras designed by a genius for everyday people to use.
majorfubar69 Olympus' designers had a number of great paradigm shifts in their design. It's too bad that more of their design innovations didn't make their way to other makers.
David Hancock True but an evil part of me enjoys the exclusivity, almost elitism.
Thumbs up for the Forint coin. Greetings from Hungary. 😀
:D
Great videos! I really appreciate all the info and how easy it is to follow. I was just gifted an om-2n, however I am having problems with the shutter. The mirror will only come back down on the "B" Setting, leaving the white and black specked background exposed when it is set to anything else. It will lock and not let me advance the film if it is on anything other than "B" and to "unlock" it I would have to reset it or go to "B" and then change the shutter (which does not actually work as the mirror will stay up for all other settings anyway). Do you think this is something that could be fixed?
Thank you!
This is a pretty easy fix. It sounds like your camera doesn't have batteries, that the batteries are dead, or that they're put in backwards. So if you have fresh batteries, make sure that the positive terminal (the one with the text on it) is visible when you load them into the camera's bottom.
Make sure that your camera is set to manual mode when you re-test the shutter. Let me know if that works.
Very nice walkthrough! But I'm disappointed that you failed to mention the huge viewfinder. Apart from that I hoped you would show a bit more details on the viewfinder. I didn't quite get how it works in auto
The viewfinder on this was hard to film. In auto, the camera displays a tower of shutter speeds on the left side. You select the aperture and the needle points to the shutter speed the camera selects. That way it lets you know if there will be camera shake or not.
Hi David, great videos on the OM-2n. I've just started picking up a few Olympus camera items i.e. Camera and lenses to start my journey into B/W film photography. Being a newby in this subject I've picked up a few cameras with suspect light seals which I would like to change myself, taking them to a shop is looking expensive. Can you do a few videos on OM camera maintenance and repair for common faults with the inclusion of light seal install on OM-10 to 30 and OM-1/2n cameras. Thanks.
Shawnee Union has a good video showing how to replace light seals. My only variation on it is to use cotton yarn instead of foam in the channels and adhesive-backed felt instead of foam at the hinge. Those materials won't turn to goo after 10 years. And the yarn is held in place by friction in the channels, so no glue is needed for that.
But yes, I do think I need to make a light seals video.
great tutorial thanks for sharing
You're very welcome.
Hi David , great video as always. I think that the film rewind is clockwise.
cheers
Thank you and you're right. I must have mis-spoken in the video.
top notch ! part 1 and 2
Thank you!
Hi David - amazing videos! Very comprehensive review. One question - any ideas why manual shutter speed only goes to 1 second (then Bulb) whereas automatic goes as high as 120 seconds? Cheers - Graeme
Thank you! I think the shutter speeds are a factor of the amount of space on the ring and that also, at exposures longer than one second, timing is far less important and it's easy to time them with a wrist watch. At, say, 1/500th, an exposure that's off by 1/250th of a second is off by a full stop (if slower) or a half-stop (if faster.) If you're doing a ten-second exposure in bulb mode and you're off by 1/250th of a second, the difference is entirely inconsequential.
Definite thumbs up. I'm looking into getting one of these or an OM-1 that's probably the only reason I sat through an hour of this video, and that's my only criticism: Not sure if you needed an hour to explain this camera. Some of the info was redundant from pt 1 to pt 2... and sometimes it just seemed boring. I did watch all of it... damn, that was like watching 3 episodes of seinfeld!!! (minus the commercials of course, 20 minz per episode).
***** Parts one and two seek to serve different purposes. Part 1 on these videos always intends to provide a general overview. People who know basic operation ten to benefit from those because they're more surface-level. Video two is always an in-depth explanation of how each feature works to create an image. And with cameras like this there's a lot to learn and a lot of features. The second videos in these series always seek to enable a person who has never handled a film camera to be able to leave the video knowing exactly how their gear operates. To that end, most of these videos have indices in the descriptions, too, that allow viewers to skip to a certain section if there's a specific question that needs answering.
21:03 the exposure comp dial is exposure comp whether you're in manual or aperture priority. It's basically telling the camera you're in a different ASA than the film actually is, so when you meter manually your shot will be underexposed or overexposed (because the meter thinks you have a faster or slower film in the camera). You can try it yourself if you want. Put your camera in full manual... then set the exposure comp dial to +2. Meter as you normally would where you get the needle exactly in the center. Your whole roll will be overexposed.
Thank you!
I just watched through both of your videos on the OM-2n. Out of all the videos I've ever watched on youtube, these made the most sense. Ever. Think on that for second.
I have one question though, regarding how to clean the mirror. I just bought myself an OM-2n, second hand obviously, and there is some sort of black smudge (seems like some sort of packaging glue like you find around the hinges on the film door). It's in the lower left corner of the mirror, looking directly from the front of the camera, about 1 mm^2 in size I'm guessing. How do I proceed? Would it be okay to carefully use a dry Q-tip or some such?
+Simen Augustin Wow. Thank you.
As for the black smudge, it's probably a piece of disintegrating mirror bumper foam. The video linked below shows how to remove that.
It might be worth replacing the mirror bumper, light seals, and door foam. Here' s the video that taught me how to do it:
czcams.com/video/E2VuUGUccMo/video.html
This is for the AE-1 Program, bu the process is the same for the OM-2N. I don't use foam, however. I use sticky-back felt for the hinge and bumper and cotton yarn for the channels.
Thanks a lot mate.
Wow after this cool video I think this is better then some Nikon FMs but i didn't get something, when I put it on auto mod i can open aperature and choose shorter speed and camera will set ISO for me?
+Ivan Pelčić With film, you need to keep the same ISO for the entire roll. When you put it in auto mode, you select the aperture and the camera selects the best shutter speed. You will manually set the film's ISO when you load it, which is how the camera determines the best shutter speed based on your selected aperture.
I was wondering if you know of any lens caps that will work on the zuiko om lenses, my 50mm 1.4 has no cap and the caps I own are for completely different sized lenses.
I use the $1 eBay center-pinch ones. Verify the lens ring diameter (should be 49mm) and just order one that you like or whichever is cheapest.
how do i reset the film counter? its currently on E and i do not know how to change it back. the camera have no films or battery in it
It should reset automatically when the film door opens.
Very good video and I really amazed by how capable this camera is! Anyway, can it operate without battery? I wish it's all mechanical for the shutter speed
Thank you! This camera requires a battery for all but the one or two mechanical shutter speeds.
@@DavidHancock thanks for the info!
Hey! I just changed the focusing screen, amd it seems that the in-finder focusing screen is still a problem. It seems to stuck to show constantly at 1/8 in auto mode while the actual shutter speed that shoot is accurate. How would you suggest me to fix this? Thx in advance!
Hmm. Did you put the focusing screen in backwards or is it seated incorrectly? It's possible that the needle is being pinched in place (I did that once.) Try re-inserting it again. Make sure that the screen is in correctly and the the camera is upright the whole time. It's a bit tricky, but doable.
probably answered already but is this a color film camera? If not could u recommend any cameras with a film advance lever and color film
This camera can use any type of 35mm film, color or black and white.
Hi David! I have an issue whenever i am in manual mode, after taking the picture, the mirror just flips up and does not go back down. I have to manually reset by switching it to batt check in order to be able to shoot the next picture, please help!
Just to verify, does the camera have good batteries in it? This could happen if it's fired without batteries.
Hi great video, how can I remove the Diopter Lens? Everything is blurry in the finder for me.
It should just slide right off the back of the viewfinder.
Love your videos. Does this camera have AE lock so you can meter and recompose?
I don't think so, no. It's been a few years since I used one, but I don't recall that function.
It might be worth trying this: Inside, point the camera at a lamp and half-press thus shutter. Then while holding the shutter button in place, point it at a dark part of your room. If the meter reading is the same, then half-pressing the shutter will give you exposure lock. If not, then this camera doesn't have it. I just can't recall if the shutter button does that on this model or not.
@@DavidHancock hi David. Thanks for the reply. I guess it doesn’t because of the OTF metering. I suppose you could use the finder metering to gauge the correct exposure settings, reframe and then use the exposure comp to adjust to your preferred exposure. I guess also that with B&w film latitude the metering shouldn’t be too far off anyway. Cheers!
I have an olympus om-g and want a good camera that has a meter system like it. I was hoping the om1 did but it looks like it has the one that this one has. do you know of any olympus SLRs that have the shutter priority meter like the G? i dont like the needle types of meters
Sergio Flores The OMG may be the only one with that meter interface.
Where can you buy interchangeable focusing screens for the OM-2n?
+César Pascual Ramos eBay
When does the film advance lever lock up? Mine is locked up, no film in it at the moment... Does it only move with film inserted? Frame counter says S. Thanks in advance
The mirror will lock up if the battery dies. You can unlock the mirror by putting the camera in bulb (shutter speed B).
Dziękuję za filmy o aparatach Olympus. Mam pytanie. Czy fotografując w trybie auto ma znaczenie jak ustawiony jest pierścień czasu.
Wiem że aparat sam dobierze czas ale czy nie trzeba ustawić czasu na 1/1000 s.
Pozdrawiam J.
Dziękuję i nie. Aparat zignoruje ustawienie szybkości migawki w trybie automatycznym.
Hey! Great detailed video you have here. I just got my OM-2N and this is just gorgeous. But I found a problem with it. When I want to unload the film, I turn reverse dial in front counterclockwise (orange dot point left looking from in front of camera), it does not stay in that position - it bounces back to original position (orange dot point up). Is this normal? I tried to use my finger to hold it to that position and rewind, and it works fine. It's just that it's a little bit annoying that I have to hold whenever I want to rewind. Do you have any idea of how to fix this? Thanks in advance!
Thank you!
What you're describing with the rewind dial is perfectly normal. I've seen some of these where it stays in place and others where it pops back up.
One more question, my OM-2n comes with a macro "crosshair" focusing screen, and that my metering is a little bit off. Is it possible that the focusing screen causes the metering to be inaccurate? And if yes, what focusing screen should I change to? Thanks in advance!
Yes, focusing screen definitely affects the metering. The standard split-prism, grid, or plain matter are the best OM focusing screens.
Thank you for replying! I thought my bid on ebay is broken before asking here. You saved my life, thanks a lot!
I have a few question I'm new to the whole Film Roll stuff and new to the Olympus OM2n
1. Where can I check when was my camera made?
2. How can I tell if the camera took the picture? will there be like an image on the film roll or is that only after they are developed by someone?
3. When I check my battery the red flash starts to flicker does that mean I need to buy new batteries or is it normal/batteries working?
Francisco Salvador
1- Behind the pressure plate, but you have to remove it. I suggest not doing that as it's a good way to tweak the pressure plate spring and make the film plate function improperly, leading to potentially blurry images.
2- You'll know after the film is developed. If you have the film loaded properly, your camera functions properly, and your settings are set correctly, you'll have an image.
3- The video demonstrates how to do a battery check. There's an index in the description with a time stamp to take you to that part. I don't recall off the top of my head whether it's solid or blinks, but I think it's solid.
Alright Thanks!! I bought the camera at antique shop for 16.01 dollars, the lady was originally gonna sell it for 300 dollars but no one had bought it over a few years so she put it down at that price. Also saw a Canon FTB for 5 dollars is that camera good?
$16 is a GREAT price for this. I paid around $40 for both of the ones I've had. I'd jump on an FTB for $5. It's only an okay camera, but it's sturdy and reliable.
Hi David,
Awesome video, thank you!
The lite "window" that shows the amount of exposure, the one in auto with a needle. Do you by any chance know how to make it clear?
Mine is all blurry and I can't even see if there is a needle there.
I'm talking about the "viewfinder"
Probably just needs to be cleaned. Lens cleaner and lens tissue well generally work. Let me know if that fixes it or not.
I meant my "Light Metering in Viewfinder", but I guess you figured that about.
Oh, that easy? I will give it a try and let you know. Thank you!
@@stdrasse whatever you do, don't clean the focusing screen inside the camera, just the small glass window on the back.
@@DavidHancock Okey! :)
Hi, when doing shutter priority shooting. Do you need to use the depth of field preview so that the light meter can detect what the light is going to be when coming in? The manual just says to keep it on auto and rotate the aperture ring until the needle goes to the shutter speed you want, but when I rotate it, nothing happens.
You do not need to use stop-down metering (taking a meter reading while the DoF preview is pushed down.) The camera will take the actual meter reading at the moment that the aperture stops down and determine the best position for the aperture. So holding the DoF previous button could, at best, screw up the exposure setting or, at worst, break something or jam the camera if it tried to move the aperture control linkage in a manner that causes it to impact an internal component due to the DoF preview button being pushed.
David Hancock Thanks for the quick reply. On full manual mode, should changing the aperture move the needle? Because rotating the aperture does nothing while changing shutter speed does.
I switched accounts, I'm the same person*
Chris Lo You're welcome and on full manual, yes, changing the aperture ought to move the needle just as changing shutter speed does. If it doesn't, then either the camera is set to auto mode, the mode switch is stuck in auto mode, or the lens is not communicating with the camera.
For the first case, check the dial. For the third case, simply unmount and remount the lens , checking that the camera's aperture linkage is in the correct place and isn't sluggish. If it is in the wrong place or is sluggish that could explain why the aperture is not causing a response. For the second option, well, try re-seating the selector dial and if that doesn't work the camera may need repair. Those would be my guesses.
19:30 never really got exp. comp. dials on film cameras... especially on this one where the shutter ring is so perfectly placed. Instead of having to take the camera from your eye and look at the exposure comp. dial... you can just bracket using the shutter speed ring, or if you didn't care about depth of field changes use the aperture ring. On digital it makes more sense, cause if you're just fucking around and look at your screen and see it's a bit dark, then without thinking just exposure comp a stop or two. Even then I rarely use it on my digital. Or if my digital cam's meter is consistantly reading too bright/dark throughout a whole day of shooting, I'll use it.
***** I don't disagree. I think that exposure compensation dials can create a problem sometimes.
Hi David. So I just want to make sure I understood what you said. Do you mean to say that the OM-2n's light meter is better than the wonderful OM-4Ti? If that is true then the OM-2n would have been a much more affordable option for me over my expensive used OM-4Ti.
So I have an OM-4TI on my shelf, finally, after years of searching. I haven't gotten to use it yet, though. I understand that the OM-2N has a better light meter for long exposure shots, though, which is where that statement came from. That references its ability to calculate long exposures in automatic mode.
Hi i have the same camera. I love it alot! But i have some few problems with mine. Sometimes when im taking a shot, most of the time my first shots, the shutter release will get stucked so i have to reset the camera. On that situation, reseting it makes me take unnecessary pics or not the one im trying to picture. Is it because of my battery? Im using the brand energizer. Thank you :)
Hmm. That sounds like a more serious issue than the battery. I'm not sure what would cause that, but the camera might benefit from a repair. I suspect that's a problem with the camera's electronics and that it will get worse with time.
David Hancock aw that's unfortunate but thank you for your reply. :)
Hi, on my OM2N in the viewfinder the needle for the meter just sits at the bottom and does not move up, do you know what might be causing that?
The first thing to check is that the batteries are good. If they are and if they are installed correctly and of the camera is powered on, check your exposure settings. If you're inside with 400 ISO film and the lens at f/5.6, a bright room should have an exposure time of around 1/60th.
@@DavidHancock How do I know if the batteries are working and if they are installed correctly? Sorry it’s my first film camera
@@mincabbage9884 If you bought them new, they should be good to go. Are they installed as demonstrated in this video?
How do use my Olympus OM 2000 lens to my Nikon body? Please, help me my friends.
+Reap Chum Olympus lenses will not mount on a Nikon camera.
Hi, I am aproud owner of a OM2-n and was wondering, at what shutterspeed it operates, when turned off. Does anyone know?
Thanks and keep this great channel going :)
Only "B" should work, at least according to the manual.
If there are batteries in it, 1/30, if not the mirror locks up.
Hi David, i recenty bought my first film camera which happens to be the OM2n. i am still waiting to the film to arrive. i would like to know where yuo got the lens cap from
eBay. Most Zuiko lenses have a 49mm thread, but double check yours so you know which size to order.
@@DavidHancock thank you. i have a more camare related one. i have the split iamge matte type, when i look through the view view finder the top one looks fine but the bottom one looks slightly to the left, they are both clear and i can easily see through, my queston is is it normal that they arent alligned
@@irshaadjaffer2033 sounds like it works properly. Looks through the cameras and place the center over something, like the corner where two of your room's walls meet and focus the lens. You'll see as you focus that the vertical lines go from separate to together and then separate again. When they're together, the spot where the walls meet is in focus.
@@DavidHancock thank you, i managed to focus it and is clear now. upon further looking at it i believe its actually a microprism split as there is a mesh around the split circle
@@irshaadjaffer2033 That is correct. 😀
Hi, David! I recently bought this exact camera. I shot one film and everything was ok (i didn't load film properly though). Now film is correctly loaded and something is wrong. Mirror gets stuck from time to time and shutter doesn't fire, I am using manual mode. I am trying to figure out what's happening. Seems like it clings back of the the lens, but I am not sure. Do you have any idea why this might happen?
Ok, i know the reason. Batteries were dead. That is a relief. Do they need to be fully charged even for "Off" mode?
Oh good. That was going to be my suggestion, the batteries. What you described is typical of an OM-2N that has dead batteries.
Hii all, I’m currently in search of an OM2N but given the prices of film cameras these days I’m unsure where I could purchase one without spending waaay much for an overpriced system already.
Thank you I appreciate your responses ☺️
I hear ya on film camera prices. If I knew of a cheap place to source film cameras I'd tell you, but I don't.
Hi, David. It looks like I am a regular customer here:)
I wonder, have ever experienced focusing problems with fast f numbers (f1.8 through f4, it looks to me)? The reason I am asking, is that recently I made some shots and focus is a bit off the mark, about 5-10cm, although I can swear it was accurate.
It seems like some people have similar issues with OM-1, but I decided to ask an expert on this matter.
Hey, Ivan, regular customers are always appreciated. :D Focus with fast lenses is tricky. So let's figure out if it's an issue with the camera or with you or the subject moving. It could also be that the focusing screen is slightly mis-placed so a good first step is to remove it and re-seat it. When you re-seat it, make sure that the camera is placed on a table with the base flat.
If this has happened with only one lens, do a test roll with a tripod. You'll also need a small cup, binder clip, or something to hold a sharpened pencil upright. Focus the camera to the closest focus while on a tripod. Place the pencil in front of it and adjust the pencil until the tip is in focus in the middle of the frame. You can also try this at a few points around the frame, too, to further see how your lens performs. Then take photos of the pencil at the widest aperture. You'll know from your test that the pencil tip was the focus point when you took the photos, so if it is out of focus, then you'll know there's an issue with the camera's focus. If it's in focus, then you'll know your previous issue was from either you or your subject (or both) moving slightly between the time the photo was focused and shutter activated.
An alternate method is to use a ruler pointed away from your camera so that you can see down the length of it. Focus on the middle and then you'll also know how far off your focus is if the focus issue repeats. This latter method is my preferred option for the added data about which direction the focus is off.
Let me know what the results are and we can go from there. This test should indicate if there's an issue with either the focusing screen or the focusing glass at the back of the eyepiece. If either are out of alignment then the focus will be off on the film plane versus what you see.
@@DavidHancock So I did almost your second way. I put measuring tape on the floor and put a book on 1.5m mark, glass a bit closer and a box behind the book (apologize for using metric system) and focused at the same distance, shot at f1.8. Focus was fine, so it's definitely me. Have to pay attention while shooting with fast aperture. Many thanks for help.
I also got a new question for you, if I may. Does automatic exposure at least somehow takes into account reciprocity failure? I know that reciprocity calculates for every different film. However, shutter can be open up to 120 sec and more. At such shutter speeds one has to calculate for the reciprocity, if I understand the matter.
After fiddling about with exposure compensation (maximum) and the aperture, the needle is still not at the middle in auto mode. what else can I do to ensure that my exposure is correct? x
+Molly Mercurio Walk me through your settings a bit and let's see what we can figure out.
What is your film's ISO?
What is your camera's ISO set to?
Are you taking meter readings indoors or outside in the light?
If your film's ISO is 400, your ISO dial should be set to 400 with your compensation set to 0. That will give you a proper reading for your film.
If you're testing inside, you may not get a proper reading because there's probably not enough light. If you test outside, set your shutter speed to 1/500th and aperture to f/16 and aim your lens at a subject in full sun (but not at the sun itself because your eye will pop like a grape under a shoe, not literally, but you get the idea.) Your meter reading should be approximately in the middle. A good gauge of meter accuracy with a subject in full sun and your aperture at f/16 is that the film's ISO should be the shutter speed.
Let me know if that works or if it doesn't. We'll take it from there.
+David Hancock Hi, when I am inside with moderately good lighting, I have my exposure compensation at the highest, aperture 1.4 and shutter speed of 60. The needle on the exposure meter is still not at the middle. I'm using ISO 400 film and my ISO dial is on 400. Thank you
Molly Mercurio
So your exposure compensation should be set to 0, typically. I have a white wall that I shine a 60-watt light on and that gives me a reading of 1/30 to 1/60 at f/5.6 with ISO 400. So you should be reading an overexposure with your settings. There are three possibilities as to why you're not getting a reading:
1- On switch no turned to manual.
2- Weak or dead batteries
3- Dead light meter.
So I assume you have good batteries and the camera switched to manual, but it's best to verify this outside in the sunlight. That will tell you if you have a weak light meter or not.
+David Hancock I actually have my camera on auto because I find the light meter easier to read. I am quite new to film photography. My battery is fine and when I point my camera at a light the light meter shoots up. In moderate lighting inside, the light meter is near the bottom on auto mode, and only when I adjust the exposure compensation to the maximum does the needle get anywhere near the middle. It's not exactly the brightest inside but I wouldn't say that it is dark either. Am I doing it correctly? How would I go about getting the best exposure while on auto mode? Thank you for your help
+Molly Mercurio I must also add that whenever I turn the exposure compensation into negative numbers, the needle on the light meter gets higher as if to say the picture should get brighter. Shouldn't this be happening with the positive numbers of exposure compensation?
But how does the light meter work when all the light has been bounced up to the viewfinder via the mirror
There are two meters -- one in the prism for your exposure reading in the prism and one in the shutter box to measure the light reflected off the curtain after the mirror opens but before the curtain opens and then also while the film is exposed to light during the photo capture.
David Hancock So is that mean the actual shutter speed could be different to the reading in the viewfinder right? And also there might be zero point something seconds of lag
Yes, but not in any meaningful way. So the light meter readout isn't accurate like a digital display .It points to a general area, say 1/250th, and then your shutter speed will be about that. You actual shutter speed in auto mode might be 1/245th or 1/223rd instead of the displayed 1/250th. There's more likely to be a shutter timing issue due to old camera issues and aging mechanical components than there is due to metering differences (assuming both meters work properly.)
David Hancock Oh thanks for your explanations.
Hey, If the battery check light is flickering does that mean the batter is low?
found it by googling
George Kuzet Fantastic. I was going to answer yes, so I hope I was right.
David Hancock Yes you were. Now that I've gone through almost a whole test roll it seems that I have bought a faulty item. The shutter keeps getting stuck in manual mode, and the light meter needle in manual rarely moves. Very disappointing
George Kuzet Yes, that is disappointing. If you can return it, you should. Those are obvious enough issues that even an eBay seller unfamiliar with cameras could deduce them.
I'm working on a video that shows how to do a seven-point in-store camera test and four-point film test to check for proper function. I have to re-shoot it from scratch this month (long story, awful footage), but I'm hoping it will be up before December. That may help with your next camera if you elect to replace this one.
No se, tal vez entiendas un poco el español. De cualquier manera trataré de escribirlo en Inglés:
El espejo que está detrás del lente, se quedó arriba, y al momento de ver para tomar la foto, no se puede ver.
The mirror behind the place where may be the lens it´s uped and don't came back down, that don´t let me take pictures 'cause i can't see anything. Just like in the minute 22:38. What can I do to make that back to the normality?
These cameras have shutter that require a battery to operate. So when I've seen this happen the issue has always been a dead or missing battery. The first thing to do is to set the camera's shutter speed to "B" and see if that resets the shutter. It should. If not let me know and we'll take it from there.
Oh I understand, thank you so much and great video, if I have a question I'll contact you, thank you so much again.
Yeah! It works, thank you so much! and your video help me so much!
continuous so you do excellent.
Thank you!
10:52 , you mentioned in your last video you didn't know why the hot shoe came off. I'm personally glad it does. Both how the camera looks and also adding another clunky piece protruding from the camera. I personally don't even remember the last time I shot flash. I don't do studio portraiture, and if I am shooting headshots or something, it's generally outside or inside near a large window, and maybe a bounce card. Plus, unless you have umbrellas and nice lighting setup, which most people don't have (and not sure if I'd use an om-2 for such a serious and expensive shoot) if you're just using one flash, even if it's off access, the results are a bit amateurish looking. Unless you're going for the hipster Terry Richardson type harsh flash stuff. Anyway, I think it's great the hotshoe comes off, it ruins the beauty of the camera and is a clunky bit on top that could snag on stuff.
Oh ya!!!! And it has the PC port! Forgot about that, so if you were going to do some serious studio stuff, you wouldn't even use the hotflash. Thank god that bit unscrews! Much prettier cam without it, and not even needed... unless you're shooting a children's birthday party LOL
***** Good points. I don't use flash on top of the camera at all. My only concern about the removable hot shoe is water or dirt getting into the port. Plus, I'm against parts that can be lost easily if the part doesn't need to be removed to serve some greater good.
There were complaints the hotshoe was a also a bit fragile... which I guess is why the later OM versions had a fixed shoe. I quite like how clean the camera looks with the shoe off - the M1, OM1 and OM1n versions in particular.
If you are over-exposing the image why the exposure wheel, why does the camera need longer shutter speed? and when you under-expose, why does it take the photo in a shorter shutter speed? Should it not be the other way around?
Good question, and no. A shorter shutter speed is less light. So if proper exposure is a full second and you want to underexpose by a stop, the camera would use a 1/2-second exposure -- half the light. Same with going from 1/500th to 1/1,000th (for another example) -- half the light. Any time you go from one shutter speed to the next you either half (shorter speed) or double (longer speed) the amount of light entering the camera (all other conditions and settings being equal.)
I heard the lens release is on the lens so it can be done one handed.
That can be done, sort of. You still need to hold the camera. To that end, any bayonet-mount lens can be removed with one hand so long as the other holds the camera. I would agree that removing the lenses is very easy, especially the smaller primes, on the OM bodies. It's easy to simply put on a lens cap, cup the lens, and remove it and be more certain that it won't drop. I think that part of the design is brilliant. It probably also reduced the complexity of the lens mount on the camera's body because there was no need for mechanisms or springs in the lens mount, meaning that the mount could be designed to do more with fewer obstructions around it. So lots of known and potential benefits.
@@DavidHancock but you don't need to hold it in your hand. It can be held against you body, or in the crook of your arm. Useful in cold weather, only need to remove one glove.
hi, is there any way if i cannot turn the handle near the shutter? (i cannot load the films at the moment as i can't turn it...)
Cheryl Cheng Is it possible that your camera has film in it already? If so, that would prevent the film advance lever from advancing the film. Try rewinding the film and let me know if that works or not.
David Hancock the handle can just turn for 60 degrees... means I cannot load the film by turning the handle... the film is already in the camera but the head of the film cannot be loaded...
Cheryl Cheng Are the batteries fresh? If they're dead, then the shutter may be jammed partway through the actuation cycle. Let me know and if we need to we'll keep troubleshooting.
David Hancock yea i just changed the batteries and the battery light works too!
Cheryl Cheng I'm assuming that didn't fix the other issue, though, correct? Or is the camera working properly now?
how we will change iso??????
The ISO adjustment dial on top does that. Lift it, rotate it to your selected ISO, and then adjust it so that it's level again.
Hey, David. You're the only one I know, who has experience with this camera. I got my film developed and scanned by lab. Some of the photos, but not all, have weird artifacts, like small circles ( drive.google.com/file/d/1PbNJLJOh2GE3OLEPdxun_wAy899Tu3vE/view?usp=drivesdk). May it be from film pressure plate? Or the problem is with a film, or it is just poor scanning?
I haven't seen the negatives yet, so it is just a blind guess. But may be you had something similar with the Om-2n?
Hey, Ivan, that is curious. It's so evenly spaced. I've seen artifacts like that and it's typically an issue with either film emulsion dye distribution or a small spot of unevenly diluted developer (which leads to an area of slightly higher development, therefore brighter.) I've never seen it that regular. The good news is it shouldn't be a camera issue.
The fact that i's regular, in two rows, and with even spacing between the spots, and along the top makes me think it's a film production issue.
The OM-1n has a lever for mirror lock up.
Thank you!
Hi David, love the videos. I'm trying to rewind my film but the lever on the front won't stay in the horizontal position, it just springs back to vertical every time i turn it. Any ideas?
You might need to hold it. I think that it should stay upright, but if something inside is a bit worn it may need to be held in place.
Is there anyway to lock the shutter so that it doesnt fire in my bag ect?
The OM-2n does not have a shutter lock. The best option is to not advance the film after you take an exposure before putting it in your bag.
And then not recocking until the next shot?
Correct. That's actually a good habit to get into as a camera should be stored when not in use with the shutter having been pre-fired (that keeps tension off the firing mechanism's springs.)
Awesome. I have a black OM2n +50mm lens coming in a few days. Would really like a 35mm for it but the only one I can seem to find is like £100 for the olympus version. Do you know of any other ones?
That's about what the 35mm runs for. A 28mm f3.5 will be much less expensive. a 28 2.8 a little less expensive. 35mm lenses are very spendy.
👍
Thanks, I still use my OM2 (and OM1). They are both examples of exceptional industrial design. They do what they set out to do to a high standard in a manner which quickly becomes intuitive, whilst being practical in terms of size, weight and feel. A camera should, ideally, just feel like an extension of ones eyes and hands.
17:17 I don't think it needs to be in auto mode. The exp. comp dial is literally the ISO/ASA dial. All you're doing is telling the camera that instead of 100 speed film I'm now shooting 50 speed (which will overexpose by a stop because it thinks you're now shooting 50). Olympus was just smart enough to combine exp. comp dial and the ASA/ISO dial. The exposure comp and the ISO dial are the exact same dial. Just a way of communicating with the light meter. I could be wrong here, but I think they're literally the same dial. So it wouldn't matter if you're in auto or not. Again, you're just telling the camera that you're now in ISO 200 (underexposing if you were actually shooting 100). It's why you have to lift the wheel THEN turn it without actually changing the dial. (I don't think I'm right I'm definitely right. The ASA and exp comp are ONE dial. Then you can lift and turn the ASA dial which isn't actually changing any settings. )
Yes. They are one dial and there are two different ways to skin the cat on that.
@@DavidHancock ya, but it doesn't matter if it's in auto mode or manual.
Oh got it. Actually it does. EV compensation is use in auto mode. In manual mode, you'd simply manually adjust the shutter speed or aperture yourself. In manual mode, EV compensation will adjust the meter reading. In auto mode it will adjust the shutter speed for you.
@@DavidHancock No it doesn't. Have you noticed that when you change the ASA you're just lifting the thin metal part and it's not actually turning the knob? Changing the ASA speed is literally not changing any setting on the camera. That's why when you change film speeds you then AFTER that have to reset the exposure comp dial. Try it yourself.
Meaning... the ASA setting does NOTHING when you set it. You then have to use the exp comp dial to reset to "zero" which just means you're setting the film speed.
Not sure why this isn't translating to text. But it doesn't matter if you're in auto or manual. You can still use the exp comp dial. All the exp. comp dial does is change the ASA speed without you knowing it, because of the little window that moves with it.
@@DavidHancock Or maybe this is a simpler way to put it: Try changing your ASA knob mid-roll to whatever film speed you would like... but do NOT adjust the exposure comp dial after you do so. Your film roll will be exposed the same. And it won't matter if you're on auto or manual.
Hi David, double exposure is not so complicated, your explanation had one little mistake: You take the 1Photo and then turn the lever counterclockwise and hold the rewind knob while turning the film advance lever., and then take the second one. cheers
Thank you!
Seems you have not 'grasped' double exposure using the OM. Theres no need to unlock the rewind when taking the shot! Thats asking for trouble. Unlock to 'wind on' only and you will find the OMs are as easy as your Canon/Nikon etc. Your inadequacy and comments did the camera poor service. Try again and edit maybe?
Jon Bright All I did was re-hash what the instruction manual stated. Right here: www.olympusamerica.com/files/oima_cckb/Oly_OM_2.pdf
Page 20 (paraphrased below).
Step 1: Take up slack.
Step 2: Open the rewind lever.
Step 3: Hold both the rewind crank and rewind knob.
Step 4: Press the shutter release.
Step 5: The exposure counter will advance with the advance lever.
Step 6: After completion, take a dead frame.
So it sounds like what you're saying, really, is that the instruction manual is inadequate and did the camera poor service.
Manuals can simplify and complicate matters by turn. I felt your instruction to 'forget double exposure' was unfair inasmuch as the process is easily executed with a little practice. You evidently 'went in cold' when a pre-run may have been advised. This is not meant to criticise. I've used the OM series since the early eighties (at least), still do. It's right to say they're they're probably the most intuitively useable 35mm. Great video.
Thank you. And I will admit to being spoiled for double exposures by other cameras, like the F3, which is about as easy as an old, un-coupled TLR (for instance) to use for double exposures. I have used my OM2N for double exposures, and it is a bit easier with practice.
Back when I did this video, I'd only had a question or two about double exposures. This may have been my first video that discussed it, actually. Since then, double exposures have become one of the most frequent types of questions I receive. To that end, I actually go out of my way now to take double exposures and use camera for that purpose before I make a video. I never did that a year or 18 months ago.
I would say that the OM2N is one of my favorite cameras. It's unfortunate that the Olympus didn't manage to carry the OM system, and the design and interface aesthetics driving it, into the digital arena. (Their 4/3 cameras are nice, but aren't as nice as the OMs.)
So which OM bodies do you use the most? I've been looking for another Olympus for a future (later this year) video, but I haven't decided which to go after. I'm leaning toward either the OM1 or OM3.
This is when I realized that I ruined 2 rolls of film and my batteries were dead 💀
Oh dang it. As someone who has made similar mistakes, I'll tel you that you likely won't let it happen again. :D
17:00 not true. It's just changing the film speed. In manual mode, change the exposure comp dial and watch that needle move up and down in the viewfinder.
Thank you!