Olympus OM-1 Video Manual 2 of 2, Using the Olympus OM-1
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- čas přidán 28. 04. 2019
- The Olympus OM-1, Olympus first professional-level SLR, was a masterpiece of engineering, design, and interface. The viewfinder is still regarded as the best, or at least one of the best, ever made for a camera. The shutter is not meaningfully noisier than a leaf shutter. The lens lineup is spectacular. The entire camera and supporting system were crafted for enjoyable and comfortable use.
This video presents detailed instructions on how to use all of the Olympus OM-1's features, how to read the meter, and how to take a photo with the camera.
Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:15
Mounting and Unmounting Lenses on the Olympus OM-1: 0:27
Film Loading and Unloading in the Olympus OM-1: 1:25
Changing the Battery in the Olympus OM-1: 6:26
Using Modern Batteries in the Olympus OM-1: 7:35
Using the Self Timer and Mirror Lock Up (MLU) on the Olympus OM-1: 10:45
Flash photography with the Olympus OM-1: 14:59
How to read the OM-1 light meter and the viewfinder: 18:52
Changing the OM-1 focusing Screen: 20:22
How to take a photo with the Olympus OM-1: 22:09
How to take a double-exposure photo with the Olympus OM-1: 23:23
An invitation to like and subscribe: 26:17
Diode Replacement Video Link:
• Fix Old Cameras: OM-1 ...
Olympus OM-1 Review:
• Olympus OM-1 Camera 4K...
Link to Video 1:
• Olympus OM-1 Video Man...
References:
www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus...
www.cameramanuals.org/olympus_...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of...
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympus...
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What an outstanding couple of films on the OM1. I recently purchased an OM1n MD. Before taking my first film I reviewed a number of films on the OM1 system. David, in my opinion, your pair of films on the OM1 are the best introduction to this camera anywhere on the net. Outstanding work, thank you so much.
Thank you very much, Mark! A lot of work goes into Therese and I'm very glad too know when that work helps people.
What a fantastic tutorial. Thanks David.
Clean I ask what do you use to clean yr camera?? Alcohol wipes??
Thank you David. I am a newbie on the photography scene. This was a great tutorial for my purposes. I was at a church fete and brought my Olympus for one dollar. I had it fixed for $30. I am ready to take on the challenge.
Thank you and that's a fantastic deal!
- I am very grateful for your videos, they are so well made and you describe the cameras in detail and I love to understand what I'm doing. I just got an Olympus OM1. I used one in the early eighties, but it was not mine, so then I had no camera for a couple of years. Terrible.
I'm a subscriber and I watch one or more video of yours every day! 😃
/Lisbeth from Sweden 🇸🇪
Thank you, Lisbeth!
This is such a comprehensive and in depth tutorial for new OM-1 users! I was lucky to find an OM-1 here in my country and I'm very excited to try it out. Thank you David for creating this video manual!
www.graflex.org/speed-graphic/graphic-models.html
The most in-depth 2 part video I ever came across👌🏼
Thank you!
Oly OM1 is the most beautiful SLR, together with Nikon F (which always looks more impractical). Since F cameras, along with all Nikon lenses, are more expensive, your OM2n video inspired me to get more practical Oly (I got myself OM), which is my main camera... and that finder is awesome, makes using my firends' DSLRs... Definitely recommend!
EDIT:
You should definitely do more of lens review, especially OM Zuikos... just got myself a 135mm f3.5, can't wait to use it!
Thank you and I agree about the lens reviews, but there are only so many hours in a day. No one else is really making detailed how-to videos for camera use and technical analyses of film, but lots of people make lens reviews. That said, I do have some lenses I'd like to review at some point.
Thank you. I just recently acquired an OM 1 to go along with my other Olympus bodies and this had some useful information.
Thank you!
Photographic Poetry,Excellent Narration and thank you for posting about these Gems of cameras .
Thank you!
This has been so so helpful, thank you so much for sharing!
Thank you!
this was super helpful. definitely two of the best videos i’ve come across on this camera. thank you for being so in depth! i learned a bunch
Thank you!
This is really helpful, thanks!
Thank you!
what a detailed well explained video!
Thank you!
Excellent tutorial very easy to understand and informative, thank you for taking time to do this video
Thank you!
excellent content!
Thank you!
Great tutorial. Thanks!
Thank you!
Great tutorials! Since I shoot with an EM1 MII, I wanted the camera that started it all; the OM-1. Although I would still like to have one, I now know replacing the battery will be an issue. That is great to know and may be a deal breaker for me. Your solutions are good, although power will still be a challenge for me. Thank you so much for de mystifying the OM-1!
Thank you!
Good information thank you for sharing .
Thank you!
Thanks for video! Was very useful!!!
Thank you!
Excellent, concise, thanks David. Just purchased an OM-1n and was not sure how best to do double exposure, so that explanation was really helpful. I have returned to 35mm as I have never achieved the same results with digital as I did with an OM-2n in the 80's.
Thank you! And yes, same process on the N. Those are good cameras.
Really helpful video. I recently found a friend who's dad had a really good kit: the OM-1, 28mm 3.5, 50mm 1.4, 135mm 3.5 and a 400mm 6.3 all with cases and a hard olympus camera bag all in pristine condition and I'm planning on buying it and trying to learn how to shoot and develop film. this really gets to my love for photography and history. Only thing is neither of us know how much all of this cost 😅
Thank you! That's a great kit. Those are all stunningly sharp lenses, too.
That looks like the rare M-1 version that Leica had Olympus pull off the market.
Yup. It is.
My father recently gave me two OM-1's. These two videos answered all the questions I had and answered a few things I didn't even know I needed to know....
I got two bodies and 5 lenses. One motorized shutter advance? The powered handle that let's you hit the button without having to manually wind it.
If you aren't careful you can blow through a role of film in a few seconds....
I recently took up astrophotography and my father said this is the set up he used when I was a kid....
Would really like to see a video on how to set the camera settings while using my telescopes in Prime.
I have had some decent success with my Canon T3i and 5d MKII DSLR's.
Would like to get some Milky Way long exposure photos.
I have a very nice goto tracking mount and there are a couple lenses that I'd like to try. I have taken some really nice photos with my DSLR's using a standard "Nifty Fifty" and also a 100mm macro lens.
I have an equivalent of each that came with the Olympus OM-1's.
Very nice!
For telescope use, that's a specialized field I am not an expert in at all. I tried to learn to do it some years ago, including both T adapter as well as eyepiece projection, and really could not get the hang of it. There are some exceptional astrophotography channels on YT, though. I follow a few and those guys are amazing.
David, excellent video! I have a quick question. Do you have a video that shows how I could clean (if this is even something I should be doing) the mirror in my Olympus OM-1n? I will have to check out your other videos. You are a great resource for these older cameras. Many thanks!
Thank you! I believe that I have a video on how to clean film cameras, yes. I can't get to it easily on my phone, but searching my name and camera cleaning ought to get you in the neighborhood.
Just started using my grandfather's om-1 and the video helped so much! Thank you!
About the light meter, i bought the cheap adopter and wanted to push ilfroid hp 5 from 400 to 1600 to shoot in a concert.. so basically just to push it to 3200 and develop at the same as 1600?
Thank you!
For the adapter, your best bet is to go with a 675 battery. The voltage for those is close enough that no ISO compensation is required.
Amazing tutorials. I don't own slr cameras please do a few on rangefinder cameras. Thanks
I have one coming up in the foreseeable future for the Amica Eyelux, which is a rebadged Taron (I forget the model number of the Taron right now.)
Please, no rangefinders! This is an SLR, TLR, Medium- and Large-format arena only. I'll have to file a complaint against David with CZcams if he tries slipping that rangefinder video through.
To be fair, this channel has had many, many more rangefinder videos than large format videos.
David Hancock Just doing my part to troll your channel. After all, without me, you'd have nothing but broken cameras and lenses. ;p
Fantastic Video manual series I just bought an OM-1 that has about all the functions working. I have a 50mm 1.4 and a 28mm 3.5, both pretty clean. What would be a good compliment to those 2? I was thinking a 100 or 135. I do a lot of outdoor landscapes as well as close ups of people, plants, rocks ect.
I also wanted to thank you for the great general photography lesson, all the info was great,
Thank you!
So the Zuiko lenses are ridiculously expensive, always have been. Expanding a lens lineup is a significant endeavor. I have a baseline camera kit lineup that I think work well and includes three lenses: a 28mm, a 50mm, and a 135mm. Those three lenses will do about 95%, or more, of anything that most people could want or need. That said, here are the lenses I have for my OM kit:
50mm f/1.2 (and 1.4), 50mm f/3.5 macro (far cheaper than the 2.8), 24mm f/2.8, 135mm f/2.8 (a reasonably affordable short tele, the f/3.5 is more affordable if price is an issue), and the 300mm f/4.5.
Zuiko 100mm lenses are great, but way more money than the 135 without offering a whole lot extra. So given the choice, unless you specifically need a 100mm, the 135 will almost always do the trick.
That's a large range and I don't really feel like I need anything else. The macro lens and the 300mm are key parts of that lineup because they add unique capabilities. So if you were to expand beyond a basic and highly capable kit, a macro and a longer tele are good choices.
Mark Schneider a short tele. I have a 135 f 3.5 its tack sharp
Hi David, thanks for your fantastic overview. Quick question. My OM-1 sometimes fires when pulling the film advance lever (without touching the shutter release button). Any idea why this is?
Thank you! That's a mechanical issue that has to do with the arming assembly. There's a lever or pin that stops that from happening that is either inconsistently engaging or failing. It's possible that you can see the part with the camera's bottom plate removed and from there identify if it's easily fixable. My guess is that the part needs to be replaced which would require a professional overhaul.
double exposure method still advanced the film despite me holding on the knob
You have to hold the film rewind release switch on the front of the camera as well. That switch disengages the advance mechanism.
@@DavidHancock I did that. very tightly. Held the rewind switch, and held the rewind crank. very tightly. did not even feel them move. maybe I should rewind one full 360deg back after taking the first exp?
@@grainfrizz I just grabbed the OM-1 that I have right now (different than the one in this video) and it also will not allow me to do a double exposure. The rewind switch automatically flips back as soon as I start to advance the film, even if I hold it. I wonder if there was some change at some point in the OM-1 cameras that disabled double exposures or changed the process to something I'm not aware of.
Hi nice video - I managed to buy a mint OM2n with an Olympus 50mm 1.4 and two mint vivitar lens (28mm 2.8 & 135mm 2.8) it all came with manuals, boxes, original Olympus bag, winder, side flash and loads of other bits - for £250! I love the aesthetics and the fun of holding the mechanical metal body and the lenses feel superb. I've started my first film roll and of course everything has slowed down from my digital camera (nikon z6). The man at the shop where I bought my film suggested that I could actually change the iso between shots with this particular stock Fuji extra (400) is this true? Also I've noticed when it's very sunny that on this film speed it's extremely difficult to get the exposure in the centre - do you suggest ND filter or am I just not doing things right yet - all new to me again not having shot film for over 20yrs lol Thanks 👍📸
Thank you! I do not change ISO between shots on the same rolls. Each roll can only be developed once, so if you change the ISO some shots will be properly exposed while others will be under or over. With some films that's less noticeable.
For sunny exposures, 400 ISO will be harder to use. A good rule for exposures is the Sunny 16 rule -- in full sun with with the sun to your back, at f/16, the shutter speed will be your film ISO (or the nearest number to it.) Si 400 ISO film in full sun limits you to 1/500 and 1/1,00 with this camera. An ND filter CAN help, but for full sun shooting I'd recommend 100 ISO.
Very interesting, and helpful video. Shot on om1n about 5 years, and never thought it can do a double exposure. I don't really understand the mechanics. Because it's still rotating inside( I thought I need a look how it works without film, when "r" is hold only one of the two is not rotating. The thing that rotates the film is still moving, so either I should see it with film , or I don't understand smth. Oh and thing about battery. Is last time I loaded a battery was about 2 years ago and it still works properly( just finished scanning my last film and exposure was as I thought it would, I mean not every single shot, but most). But I have "n" modification , so maybe they fixed it? Or the previous user( I heard it can be fixed). So I don't really care about battery, and just load a new one when the light meter is just not working anymore. So maybe I am wrong here as well?
P.s. Forgot to mention it is my second favorite photo camera. The first one is hasselblad 203fe I do believe that those two are the best cameras a human could have. What do you think about these two?
Thank you!
Alkaline battery voltage changes over time as it drains, so it's possible that you had one that was slightly weak, which would give you a proper meter reading. You can always verify against the Sunny 16 Rule or a smartphone app, or another camera.
For the 203F, I haven't used one before, so I can't really speak to it.
Hey ! Your videos on the OM-1 are vert helpfull for me. Do you know if the self timer piece is the same on on OM-2 and an OM-1? I have an Om-1 but my self timer is broken, but I can buy this piece from an OM-2. Before buying, i would like to know !
Thank you! I do not know if the parts are interchangeable. If the lever is all that's missing then a parts OM-1 could donate that. If the internal mechanism is broken then the repair is much more intense.
David, I have an issue with the om 1, the rewind knob starts rotating after the counter reaches to 1, however, when I am advancing sometimes the rewind knob doesn't rotate and sometimes it does through out the film... The counter of course keeps on progressing... What's your opinion? Would I lose those photos I took when the rewind knob wasn't rotating? Do I have film slack? Thanks!
Sounds like it's just film slack in the cassette. You can take that up periodically if you want. If this is your first roll, finish it off and see if the frames overlap. If they don't we know it was film slack in the cassette. If they do then it's worth seeing what's going on with it.
@@DavidHancock it is my second roll, just sent my first for film development.. And I know, I'm loading the films correctly and to be honest, the film looks very tight before I close the back door and start to take pictures and I'm not the type who advances and closes the door quickly... I do have a look, thank you David for your time and advice!
Cannot seem to view my subject through the view finder, not sure how to ensure for us, seems to have circle and a very small area of focus
I know this question is coming a little late, and probably a really stupid one, but I just recently acquired an OM-1 with a Zuiko 50mm f1.8 and in researching it I found your awesome videos, but I still have one question. On this particular lens setting the f-stop on the aperture ring doesn’t appear to actually stop down the aperture, but rather a button on the side of the lens has to be engaged to stop down. Am I understanding correctly, that unless you adjust the ring AND hold the button down your aperture will not actually change when taking the exposure? And if that is the case you would then need to meter the shot the same way to get a correct exp. for the selected f-stop?
So that's an easy thing to be confused by. The aperture won't stop down until the photo is taken. So to test that, if you don't have film in the camera, set the aperture to 16 and shutter speed up 1 second. Take a photo and look at the lens. The aperture should stop down then.
@@DavidHancock awesome, thank you!!! So, then your meter readings will be base on the wide open aperture?
@@mollyanderson449 Correct. The cameras knows that the aperture is open and will give you a correct meter reading based on that.
Great videos, really helpful both of them. Quick question, if the light meter is not working, How do I properly set up the parameters to get a good photo exposure?
Thank you and there are some easy soluutions:
1- Outside in full sun, use the Sunny 16 rule -- ISO and shutter speed are the same when the sun is to your back and the lens is at f/16. 400 ISO film would be either 1/250th or 1/500th, depending on how you like your negatives.
2- There are some good light meter apps for smartphones that can work.
3- A simple hand-held light meter can also work.
@@DavidHancock I saw that 16 rule in you video, that's helpful, now, one of the question that got to my mind is that if even in my film says 400, Can I move it to other numbers?
@@octaviogarcia9616 You definitely can, but not mid-roll. When you push (shoot the film at a higher ISO like 800 or 1600) or pull (shoot it slower at 200 or 100) you need to also adjust the developing time. Because the roll has to be developed all at once if you shoot half the roll at 1600 and half at 100, only half the roll (at best) will turn out.
Also, not all films push and pull so well. Slide films do not at all. Black and white films of 100 ISO and faster are generally very good for pushing and pulling (100 to pull, 400 to push) and color negative films can often handle a good deal of overexposure without development adjustment (so with C-41, you could shoot at 400 ISO and then sometimes 200 ISO or even 100 ISO as well and the images would be recoverable or usable with some film stocks.)
@@DavidHancock wow, you know a lot about this film Cameras, I recently got one Olympus OM1 and I came from a digital Nikon D3500, all is new to me, Do you have by chance a video explaining the push and pull method?
@@octaviogarcia9616 Not yet. That's been on the to-make list for years, but other, lower-hanging fruit keep getting in the way. I'm working on a big push right now to clear out some video backlog so I can focus on some content like pushing and pulling film, double exposure technique, and some film chemistry reviews.
hi!! sorry to bug. Im still a little confused about the battery part? Is it better with the battery? Or will i be fine with no battery? I cant seem to quite get it yet. Thank you xx
So the battery only operates the light meter. You don't NEED a battery to take a properly exposed image if you know what the correct exposure settings are. If you do want to use the camera's meter, then you just need to know that modern batteries will underexpose your images about two stops and that some compensation, correction, or modification to the camera is required.
Hi, could you please provide the link for the voltage modifying adpator? Thanks
shop.criscam.com/products/mr-9-mercury-battery-adapter
Came here to ask this too. Thank you for the link and this excellent video.
I pulled out the olympus OM1 my grandfather gave me about 37 years ago. I barely used it when he gave it to me and its been sitting in a drawer ever since. I bought a roll of film to start playing around with it. The aperture dial on the lens won't budge. It's stuck in place. Any suggestions on how to address this or do I need to shop for a new lens?
That could be fixable but it needs a few tools. The aperture on these is also really easy to mess up if it's disassembled incorrectly because the ring is on the front of the lens. If the lens is important to you, I would send Vermont Camera Repair (if you're in the U.S.) and e-mail and see if they can give you a quick quote. Jim is really great and can tackle most any repair.
I just got a new battery for my om-1 n md that I got recently and I’m still confused about how to correct the exposure. You say the newer battery underexposes your photo by two stops and then you adjust your asa from 200 to 50. But (if I understood this correctly) higher numbers of asa (iso) are more sensitive to light so adjusting it to a lower asa would make the camera less sensitive to light, hence resulting in a darker image? I thought you’d have to compensate the other way round and make the camera more sensitive to light. Clearly I’m very confused and I’d love if someone could help me out with this.
I can definitely help. It seems logical that more voltage would overexposure but for reasons I don't fully understand (not and electrical engineer) the added voltage has the opposite effect. My best guess is that the added voltage results in an underexpose reading because the galvanometer in the meter system sees more voltage as a higher current coming from the meter cells, which it interprets as a brighter setting, thereby causing it to reduce exposure to compensate for what it thinks is more light thank there actually is.
So that's where I started using the Sunny 16 Rule to compensate because I found a lot of cameras that use these batteries underexpose with modern batteries.
To counter underexposure you need to trick the camera into giving you a reading that adds more light. So if you're underexposing two stops then two added stops of light are needed. If you had two identical cameras, one with 200 ISO film and one with 50 ISO film, both set at f/16 on a sunny day, the proper shutter speed for the 200 ISO camera would be around 1/200. The proper shutter speed on the 50 ISO camera would be around 1/50. That slower film needs that added exposure time. If you exposed the 50 ISO film with a 1/200 shutter speed it would be two stops underexposed. That's The exact same relationship this camera has with modern batteries.
Let me know if that helps.
@@DavidHancock so the light meter thinks there is more light than there actually is so we trick it with reduced asa, where it still thinks that there is more light than there actually is but the reduced asa will let in less light, hence compensate for the faulty light meter? is that somewhat right or still completely wrong? Thanks for the help!
@@istdochscheissegal1 You're mostly correct. The light meter isn't faulty but was designed for a different battery with a different voltage that's no longer made. So the light meter is working as designed but does not work well with modern batteries. That'd also why the wiring can be modified with a diode to adjust modern battery voltage so that modern batteries work in these (and other cameras with this same battery incompatibility issue.)
@@DavidHancock oh yes! I think I get it now. Thanks a lot!
I have an Om2 that gives me a solid black horizontal line across the top of the film. Any ideas?
Sounds like a light leak. Do you have scans from the negatives?
Where can I find one of those brass dumb adapters?? on ebay?? what do I type in??
Here you go: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152170365558
Had a question , would the film in the camera , i have a roll of film in the olympus camera. Already have taken some pictures, we are using this kind of camera, if i change the lens , take off the lens off, to change would it affect the roll of film?
Nope. You can change the lens at any time when you're not taking a photo without affecting the film. And don't take the lens off when you're taking a photo. That's hard on the camera.
@@DavidHancock Dont take a picture while the lens is off , or when i push the lever to take a photo. Thank you!!! I miss the olympus lens , excellent quality , using the 50mm 1.8 on sony camera, i can see why you need so many different ones. My sister saw the camera , she like it. Said thats a collectable , antique , dont sell that. just the design is nice.
can you give us a link to the battery converter?
Here's an affiliate eBay search link: bit.ly/YTDH_MR9
The voltage-adapted ones run around $32+ and the brass ones around $4.
where can I buy the battery and brass adapter?
There will be a number of options on eBay. Here's an affiliate link that will take you to the correct search and that's sorted by lowest price: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338599912&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm570.l1313%26_nkw%3Dlr44%2Badapter%2B625%26_sacat%3D0%26LH_TitleDesc%3D0%26_sop%3D15%26_osacat%3D0%26_odkw%3Dlr44%2Badapter
Do you prefer this olympus om-1 over pentax mx?
Well, that's a hard question. I think yes because I light the sound of the OM-1 shutter more. But that's caveated in that it needs to have the circuitry modified to allow it to use modern batteries. I think the MX has better ruggedness, however. I prefer the MX for shoots where it could get banged around.
What about a Wein MRB625 1.35V Zinc-Air Battery?
That can work, but they are only good for about 90 days after the sticker comes off. The other battery types can last a year or more and cost much less.
So wait a second I can or can't use LR44 is in here and do I need to just overexpose by 2 stop
You can but you'll need to adjust the ISO dial to compensate. L44 batteries are the wrong size so you'll need an adapter for get them to fit and seat correctly.
I just got OM-1N and before i start to shoot it I want to know as much as I can.
So... I've got one problem. Got 2 lenses for that mount but with both in viewfinder I see only a circle (that what lens shows) :( I can't see exposure meter cose it's outside of lens light. ;/ (in other words: With lens on, viewfinder gives me round image whitch is about 50-60% of the frame...).
Plz help me out
That's curious. What lenses are these?
@@DavidHancock Sigma Zoom-Master 2.8-4 35-70mm and RMC Tokina 2.8 28mm... But most possibile problem is that focusing screen is 1-9 (only for endoscopic/microscopic photography). I hope that with 1-13 focusing screen, problem will be gone (but I have to double check it first)
@@PatrykPospiechPhoto the focusing screen is the problem. Good catch.
The shutter on the OM1 is a bit slow at 1/500 up to about one-third slow and at 1/1000 up to about half a stop, so beware of that to prevent overexposure !
Thank you! That will also vary by camera as these old mechanical cameras, with age and use, will have different levels of shutter speed accuracy.
If the shutter speeds of your camera are that far off, it needs to be serviced by a qualified technician. When serviced properly, any Olympus camera can easily be adjusted well within ANSI standards.
the switch was on off until you switched at 8:03 and then it was on on. if i took a picture while my om1n was on off did it still expose? you didn't really speak about the on/off switch
As long as you dial in the settings correctly, yes. The battery and the switch only control the light meter, not the camera's mechanics.
David Hancock Ahhh ok thanks for answeringso quickly, I probably just missed that part. Cheers😊
Hi David. Again thanks for these videos. What are your thoughts on using one of the dumb brass adapters with a 1.4 volt hearing aid "zinc air" battery?
I used the dumb adapters all the time, but I don't know if the zinc-air batteries fit into them. I'd say that with this camera a dumb adapter is good with a 357-type battery and then compensating with the ISO dial is good. Also, these are pretty easy to modify with the resistor mod (Fix Old Cameras has a video showing how to do this, I think) and if you have some soldering skill and a small screwdriver, it's a pretty easy fix to do. I've done it on some of these (and a Canon F-1, which was WAY harder to do this repair in) and it's workable and lets you use the properly-sized batteries that are 1.5 volts.
Apparently according to the UK listing where I bought one of those adapters, the particular battery in question is a "675" size one if that makes sense. I haven't taken delivery of the OM1 I purchased yet but when I do, I'm going to ask the specialists doing the CLA service if they can do the wire modification as although I can solder I can't do it particularly well and don't want to risk irreparable damage.
That 675 sounds like a typo. The battery should be a 625 size. As for the mod, any repairman should be able to do it easily. It's a pretty simple thing, but I understand your concern. It's a tight space in there and a wrong movement could melt something that shouldn't melt.
Hi David.
It might be referring to these hearing aid batteries:
www.amazon.co.uk/Duracell-Size-675-Hearing-Batteries/dp/B000NOT8SI
The listing of the adapter I bought. If it's a typo, you need to give these guys a heads up lol.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MR-9-PX625-Battery-Converter-Adapter-for-Film-Camera-124g-Olympus-OM1-Canon-F1/202394026743?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Hi David. Sorry to bother you again about this subject but it is just to make you and your other viewers aware that there is indeed a zinc air hearing aid battery with a size model number of "675" that is about the same dimensions as an LR44/AG13 which will fit in one of those dumb adapters and it outputs around 1.4 volts which seems to allow the meter to give a correct reading, allowing for various factors including manufacturing tolerances and age. Compared to my Pentax LX it seems to be close enough. Just an idea for those who may not want to take apart their OM1s to put in a diode.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc%E2%80%93air_battery#/media/File:Zinc-air-battery-types.gif
How can I repair my light meter?
That depends on the problem, but it almost certainly requires professional repair as the camera needs to be taken apart if there's an issue with any of the metering components. What is your meter doing or not doing when you have a battery in and the switch set to on?
Oops, problem solved, just perseverance, got it
Just to make the point -- all those batteries are not the same. Alkaline, lithium, zinc-air, silver-oxide -- each has different voltages, voltage decay over time, etc. But more importantly, you CANNOT simply "adjust" for any error using a linear input, such as changing the ASA setting. The error is not linear. It varies from two stops or more at brighter light levels to sometimes less than a stop at lower light levels. Users should convert their camera, get an insert for the battery chamber, or be prepared to check and replace temporary substitute batteries (such as zinc-airs) very frequently.
Thank you!
I dont get it.. my light meter seems to be moving whether the switch is on or of, and with a battery or no battery at all.
There are a few things that could cause that. Let's see if we can figure out what's up. Does this only happen when you move the camera? If not, does the meter needle move up with more light and down with less? Also, how much is it moving?
@@DavidHancock it only moves if I'm changing the shutter speed l, the aperture, or the iso. And does not react to light or dark scenes differently it just stays in the same position. after some research I found out its moving because there is a mechanical connection between the aperture, shutterspeed and iso settings. I was given a battery and I'm not sure if it's even working, as it does the same thing in both of my om-1's
@@DavidHancock can I just get a 1.5v hearing aid battery just to check maybe before I do anything else? Should that work just to be sure?
@@AwesomeActsOfRandom Sounds like it needs a battery. The 1.5v batteries will result in about two stops of underexposure. So if you use those be sure to compensate with the ISO dial as (I think) I described in the battery section.
@@DavidHancock okay looks like I go very unlucky as both cameras have completely corroded wires. Intended up buying some 675 hearing aid batteries which I heard will work. What are my next steps to get the wires connected again?
I always just wind it all the way in personally. I don't reload film and I don't want to accidentally double expose my film
That's the best way to do it.
How come I can hear something softly rattling inside of my camera when I shake it? Is this normal?
That's probably not normal. Is it rattling around in the bottom?
@@DavidHancock It sounds like it's coming from the top.
@@GTXTi-db5xu That's not normal. I'm not sure what that would be, but if you just bought it I might ask for an exchange. If it's a family heirloom, it's worth having fixed. If you go the later route, a repairman can also modify it to take modem batteries.
@@DavidHancock How much do you think it costs to fix something like this? I don't really feel like going through the effort of shipping it all the way back. Everything else seems to work fine so do you think I could use it still?
@@GTXTi-db5xu my best guess is about $75-100 if you're in the US. My concern would be that it's a loose screw that could jam the gears or damage a control mechanism. That would be a more expensive repair.
I don't mean to be nit-picky, but the word manual is misspelt 'manaul' at 0.01 - 0.05.
Dang it. Thank you. There's nothing I can do about it now, unfortunately.
So…I accidentally glued the film door shut while repairing my OM-1 leatherette. Is there a way to release it from the bottom plate? The film release knob won’t release the door at all. I’m thinking this audience would know for sure!
What kind of glue did you use?
@@DavidHancock So I used some E6000 I picked up from Lowes
@@theborne You'll need to remove the glue from wherever it's holding the door shut. www.wikihow.com/Remove-E6000-Glue
The only way into the camera is through the film rewind knob.
Ok. Let's try this again....
How'd it look?
David Hancock I cringed all the way through it waiting for you to drop something, but when I saw your dish pan hands doing the shutter curtain dance, it went to an all new high of cringe. I'm sorry your wife makes you do dishes. A pair of latex gloves might help if you're not allergic. Just saying.
That's 100% my job and my hobby right there.
David Hancock lol
Oh dear, the battery part makes my brain shut down. 😭😭😭
675-type batteries, simple brass adapter. That's the best solution.
I looked at one of these for sale at Hunt’s in Melrose, MA. Honestly, I wanted to like it, I was not impressed. Maybe that’s because I’m spoiled by a collection of Nikon F bodies. I just don’t see what the big deal with these cameras is. And there is so much plastic in the film chamber.
I like Nikons, too, and can't fault anyone for liking them. There's just something about these, though, that's really unmatched, even in cameras like the Pentax LX and Canon F-1.
I, too, can see your point, but there's just something about a light (plastic) camera that wins hands-down after lugging around all-metal, albeit strong and sturdy, cameras. I find myself going back to my AE-1 Program time and again due to its lighter weight, in spite of its lacking aperture priority. I'm getting old and arthritic, with tendonitis and carpal tunnel syndrome, among other ailments, and I am literally burdoned by carrying an F-1, k-1000, and other heavy gear. If I don't have to carry one very far, then any camera will do. Gone are the days of me toting around 2 film cameras, a digital camera, monopod, tripod, and all the associated gear, accessories, and lenses. I did that on a trip to Thailand and it's a feat that I'll never attempt again. I actually left behind a tripod and clothes to pick up again on my next trip in Vietnam because I couldn't bear to carry that stuff back home. It sucks to get old. What it all comes down to is, what kind of pictures does the camera help you make? Many fine photos were taken with these plastic consumer and prosumer cameras. History is laced with pro shooters using consumer grade cameras; your Nikon brand probably leads the pack in this sense.
I like Nikons as well, have an old FM that's dead, my OM-2n outlived all my old Nikons despite the plastic. I also take my cameras on long bike rides and hikes, and prefer the size and weight.
A friend brought me his Nikon for service many years ago -- the plastic (yes, plastic!) in it's battery chamber had cracked, making the battery contact loose. (It took over six months to get the part from Nikon, this back when they were new! Seems lots of them were breaking.) Looking though it's huge, blocky, heavy viewfinder, I was shocked at how tiny the image appeared -- like looking through a small window from across the room! I handed him my OM -- he was amazed at how big things looked, how easy it was to use, like being in a movie theater.
Plastic? In the film chamber? I know of only two plastic parts there -- the take-up spool, and the sprocket -- and after literally thousands of Olympus OM repairs since the '70's, I can recall fewer than a dozen problems combined with either part, most of them due to user abuse.
A germanium diode
Thank you!
I had to buy a Leica M3 to realize my OM 1 is better.
:D