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How Do We Fix The Fashion Industry? Karen Binns and Nasir Mazhar on The State of Fashion
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- čas přidán 26. 01. 2024
- It’s no surprise that the fashion industry has no shortage of challenges for burgeoning creatives. From not being shown the ropes when it comes to business management to the rising costs of studio spaces and materials, today’s young designers find it more difficult then ever to find success. Industry talents Karen Binns and Nasir Mazhar go head to head in a live conversation tackling the state of fashion in 2024, using Milan's A/W 24 menswear collection as a lens to project their thoughts.
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3:54 I think lots of young designers coming out of colleges don’t really have a financial mind on fashion and have no idea how much efforts need to be put in to create a proper collection not just making one-off pieces, but running a small production all by yourself, including designing wash labels, grading the patterns, e-commerce, finding manufactures etc. Most recent graduates are still in this mind of making one off pieces, and some garments may not be perfectly executed (to match its price), it’s nice someone buy it as they like the design or your ethos, but it’s really hard to sustain for a good amount of time. Also, If you don’t have fund to hire people, doing everything by yourself alone, is incredibly painstaking. It's about the determination really, if you really wanna make it a successful business, you gotta grind real real hard and learn to connect, collab, socialize (even if you don't like but you have to) and do side gigs to support your dream.
tldr: food, shelter and clothing is expensive. The raw materials are expensive. Rinse and repeat. Idk how a small business can establish themselves and grow if they don’t have the means to run the day to day operations.
The real question is why the large British brands never reached back and invested in smaller talents? For as much as Vivienne Westwood is lauded, did the business ever create a platform for others to grow? What about Burberry?
If the students can’t compete, blame the colleges & find out why they’re (stealing) requiring massive yearly tuitions.
i feel sometimes some London designers are still offering those very student-y vibes of work, it have the energy but it is not serious enough, and most of people who are buying it are either stylists or other fashion students. To really attract people to discover the talent (they want someone who have not just the talent, but also brings the money), i feel at the same time, those designers need to elevate their quality, their technical side of design and also think about how to appeal to a wider spectrum of customers in terms of range and design.
yeah dude on the left talkin serious hogwash the majority of the convo, the lady was speaking on business and talking about developing local gdp in a time of mass brain drain to more friendly business climates and mouth-breathing multinational conglomerates. bro was on about one-off pieces to impress yr friends and "but nowadays" oldhead nonsense as she was trying to discus curtailing imminent economic collapse lmao
ngl she was a little bit too much sigma-grindset the entire time but her points about extending training into market exposure and the importance of teambuilding are facts facts facts. wish someone had brought in some slides to name names as to which institutions need to get their ass in gear to make some initiatives happen. well maybe politically that's not possible on this sort of platform. what do i care, as a usonian british tears bring me joy, i'll take my millaniese vat rebates any day of the week
Great conversation and topic! World wide so many people want to be THE designer but as it was mentioned here The Pattern Makers as well as The Seamstresses are Key but nobody wants to be those.
showstudio get adrian joffe on the line, ask him what yall need to do. let him talk for 15 uninterrupted minutes, then you can get a panel discussion of the footage afterwards. thats two videos worth of content right there
BEST idea.
Decent topic - I studied Fashion Atelier at UCA Rochester from 2014-2017. I make, cut, grade for starts, small brands and agencies. Whilst pattern making and sewing for others I use those finances and experience in the brand that I'm making. The UK government needs to invest in UK manufacturing
Nasir’s saying about young students thinking to become runway star designers is just so true. There are so many things they can do and earn!
11:20 i really think designers with just creative minds are not enough, you need to be able to learn to improve your technical ability at your own time. it's so important, because 1: it's a respect to your customers who are paying so much money to buy your design. 2: it really helps you when you're out of college and making everything by yourself, you know how to do good finishings and you can use it to communicate with manufactures. Let me say this, manufacture people really really respect you and will want to help you if you know a lot of technical skills, because you guys are on the same dimension, otherwise they're just going to treat you as a joke tbh, and they gonna fuck up your garments and if you don't have the knowledge, you don't even know that they fucked up.
i agree that the big brands have taken up the ad and press space that young designers had in the press but most people cannot afford their high price tags atm so luxury is slowing - a large space selling young designers at affordable prices£50 - £300 would work - also students could see their work rather than getting a second job while at college - if the space had 50 units would bring people back from paris - yes LULU Kennedy needs a store !!!
I feel that these two speakers are somewhat disconnected from the realities and context around young talents of the fashion industry.
On the one hand, young people are marketed to worship big brands through their designers. Such an emphasis is put on how great and godly the big name designers are as people (supposedly). There's no emphasis on craftsmanship, we keep referring to the people behind the scene as the "small hands" etc etc.
And then there's the reality of the fashion industry, and how much bullying goes on behind the scene. I've experienced this, the workload being exacerbated because of the DA's insecurities ("oh actually I want shorts not pants and velvet not silk" 2 days before the show, so now the whole team has to work late while the designer goes to a spa, actual story). Nobody wants to work in these conditions. And yeah struggling to make it on your own may sound stupid from a macro perspective, but if you're struggling to make enough money, at least you're not treated like absolutely disposable shit on the daily.
So yeah we can think "how much ego do these kids have thinking they can make it on their own" but if the industry grooms them to think like that and when they try to fit in they get wrung out, well I think then you get a situation like we have now, where everyone wants to be the big name and not work under someone else.
Had to vent.
Thank you ❤ it was an incredible conversation!
It's way way way to expensive to fail in the uk and on top of that, you have the culture of tall poppy syndrome and being a "wanker" if you want more for yourself that's isn't in property
wait a minute in my college in canada we had marketing, production, and learning how to find textile manufacturers was part of our courses so why do colleges/universities in Britain dont have does courses ?
jamie pull up the csm courseload on the screen
@@CRIMSONCITADeL yeah I’d like to see it
I know it feels lots of people now know this, but please can you talk about modeling. Honestly tho, cause way too many girls and men who are clueless about how the industry works be sitting on the dream to be on the vogue cover to be millionaires. Especially those that got the luck to shoot some random editorial in some far country. Please put it out there that lots of people would be way off better making cool instagram content than to rely on these agencies and brands. 🙏🏿
Is his sweater a nod to mean girls lol 😅😆
This woman is so disconnected from reality is blowing my mind. Who put her there