Yohji Yamamoto - Renegades of Fashion
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2020
- YOHJI YAMAMOTO
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Yohji Yamamoto is a man who understands the power of endurance. The product of a Japanese culture ravaged by war, the progressive designer has built his 50-some year career on perseverance and a refusal to bend to the will of tradition. From his initial struggles as an emerging designer to his incendiary debut on the world stage, all the way through to the near collapse of his company in the wake of the global financial crisis, Yamamoto has overcome every obstacle in his path - and always on his own terms.
Today, his eponymous brand offering both men’s and women’s clothing remains his most commercially successful venture alongside the popular sub-label Y’s and youth line Ground Y to its’ principal lines Pour Homme and Costume D’Homme. In 2018 the brand evolved yet again expanding into a line of perfume. His innovation has led to groundbreaking collaborations and pop culture moments, working alongside household names of fashion, reinventing icons Like Dr Martins whilst dressing icons of entertainment from Tina Turner to Elton John. Most particularly his trailblazing Y-3 range with street-sports giant Adidas, spurned a new wave of cross-genre collaborations paving the way for the now billion dollar athleisure industry.
Raised by his mother, who worked as a dressmaker. Yamamoto found himself identifying more with the women of his life. His compassion for the opposite gender would eventually present itself through the construction of his couture. His collections are built primarily around the comfort and confidence clothing can provide for women, uninterested in presenting them as objects of male desire.
In 2019, Yamamoto returned to Paris with his critically acclaimed Spring Summer collection held in the historic Grand Palais. Though he is still the Patriarch of black in recent years he has introduced a broader palette continuing to work into his repertoire bold colour and loud prints for Summer. The darkened space was defined by the accompanying music, written in part by Yamamoto himself it represented his defiance of destructive forces, by replying with “anti-racism, anti-crazy global warming, anti-genderless fashion”, presenting a concept that clearly defined his vision for men and women as equal and separate. With signature over sized cuts and tailoring for the men and beautifully-unstructured drapery for the women that formed around the female body, across a line of dresses and outerwear and in later moments presented a more sensual silhouette with hardware and slithers of skin. His final act was an all-white colour palette that moved into bright colours, casting five black models to open and close the show. Whilst the clothes spoke for themselves, his abstract anti-vision may have been lost on critics, but it is more complicated than being just lost in translation. According to Vogue’s Amy Verner:
At 75 Yamamoto has always disregarded the idea of retirement and practices fierce dedication to the craft and his team. Certainly, this renegade of fashion will fight off his final chapter.
Produced & Directed by Paul G Roberts,
Edited by Qingqing Guo,
Adapted from the original FIB Book 'Renegades' written by Charlie O'Brien,
Edited by Jess Bregenhoj,
Narrated by Annalisa Astarita
RENEGADES OF FASHION - NEW 11 PART NETFLIX FEATURE FILM SERIES
CREATED BY PAUL G ROBERTS
See more in this Series at fashionindustrybroadcast.com, sign up and see all the latest episodes as they land. Also please Subscribe to our CZcams Channel by ticking the red box, bottom right.
To the casual outsider the Fashion Industry can appear to be a cauldron of creativity with endless innovation and risk taking, as every new season designers have to forget their past successes and milestones and return alone to a blank canvas, to create their next collection, and this cycle repeats itself every 6 months. Granted there are principles, codes, legends and motifs that inform a designer’s agency, but essentially it’s starting over.
Even if you hold only the most casual interest in the world of fashion, it’s hard to deny the fascinating life stories of every person we have chosen to showcase in this Series.
Starring:
REI KAWAKUBO
HEDI SLIMANE
KENZO TAKADA
ISSEY MIYAKE
JEREMY SCOTT
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
RICK OWENS
JOHN GALLIANO
MALCOLM MCLAREN - Zábava
"Fashion is.... sometimes to pretend to be beautiful." Why does that quote hit me so hard :´-)
Haute Couture was/is expensive, and during war time materials and cloths were limited. A small, thin model was a necessity.
Now the extra-slender figure is celebrated, despite not necessary being the peak of beauty. Men instinctively know this, but are programmed to desire something unnatural...
See Da Vinci’s painting of Venus, and see her body...”The peak of beauty” at the time. Venus would be shamed off the runway in this day-and-age.
@@Americansikkunt I did not know this. Thank you. I just assumed designers did not want models that affected or altered the shape and line of their clothing so runway models became walking clothes hangers...
@@franchellemarshman4867 ....they DO want tall lean people wearing the clothes because in a show they have to be tall so you can drape the clothes on the body....you can see the clothes from even the less prestigious seats and see the movement of the clothes...the unnatural aspect has only come into play in the 90s...
To me your superficial beauty is easier to be appreciated and admired than what's deeper. Your persona or personas and everything fashion related to having that achieved isn't a hard thing for others to swallow. While your shortcomings and ugliness can only be accepted yourself
I've always fascinated by the emotional things that the Japanese have been presented through their art. no matter fashion, animation, music ..their emotions are really sentimental, sad and deep.
Look at their machines, like cars and motorcycles as well (If you're unfamiliar). Very similar aesthetic using 'utsukushiki ayamachi' (beautiful mistakes).
The got fire bombed daily and nuked twice. I'd be sad too.
@@Zalisnki Because they invaded neighbour countries and colonized them and made girls and women sexual slaves and slaughtered thousands of civilians for no reason then invaded the Pearl Harbor?
Don't forget about the films. Their filmmakers made the films that shaped the art of cinema.
His drip was ahead of it's time
I met him in Japan in 2019. He is incredibly humble
He seems like it. Thank you for sharing you experience.
I'm so jealous! Just curious, where in Japan where you? Was it at an event or something?
@@yesterdaywasADTR no event, was in harajuku in a store actually. I cant remember the name but they sell incredible embroided jackets
@@OxytocinUN Oh wow that's incredible! Thanks for sharing
So envious! Love your videos man
I love the way the described his compassion for women and how that defined how he cut his clothing. This is how I feel and like to be in public so I really appreciate when women are understood as beings who experience life from their own perspective.
This probably isn't the case & more a PR move. Most guys or real people don't even talk that way & if you think about it is vapid in presentation. He's prob just normal in that he doesn't place women on some dull pedestal.
Yohji is an icon… I read an interview from System Magazine and he is definitely an interesting entity! He has a lot to say in the curren fashion landscape (about how uniqueness and genuine personal style is dying , boring fashion colleftion etc) and it makes sense! Love you Yohji-san.
Maybe the only designer who shows real respect for women. 🖤
He really does! I love his fashion collection.
Bro what ab virgil abloh?
@@pretationpictures6615 Virgil abloh is an expert in copying graduates' works
@Tony no, I mean something different.
Rest easy Lee🕊❤️ McQueen was also a pioneer for women’s wear!
The Y-3 line from Adidas is stellar. I got my first pair of sneakers from Italy & everyone wanted to know what they were & where I found them. $360 for Adidas? No, they’re more than a pair of Adidas. They’re fashion & function with superior quality & fit. Got my second pair with funky jagged soles & strangers were pointing to my feet & complimenting me! (I did have to rethink my plans while wearing them however after realizing they left a very noticeable pattern on carpeted floors!)
i remember the mid eighties and how he defined full length duster coats in black for men, usually worn with a white collar. it made the wearer look like a stylistic monk, i see the look 20 years later with neo in the matrix movies, this is very Yamamoto. 👘🇯🇵
I loved those coats...
....get his sewing patterns and have his things whipped up for you....
I’ll never forget setting foot in his shop as a young girl the first time. I’d only admired the pictures from afar and a few garments here ad there someone wore who’d been abroad and could afford them.
I also remember buying his first perfume.
I have such respect for his style, poetry and artistry.
And for his ability to be real, and speak to us young aspiring artists and rebels when nothing else hit the nail; he was there and his pieces edgy, artful yet entirely timeless!
Sculpture and sensuous form.
Like the Brancuzi of fashion.
❤️❤️❤️
I'm not in the fashion but i'm a photographer who's interesting in fashion photography. This is why i'm here to understand the way that designers thinking about there crafts & the way that they think about them. Yohji represent the simplicity of the japanese creativity, don't over think, just do it. Thank's for sharing this documentary !
I modelled Yoji Yamamoto in Paris..
I love that it's kind of avant-garde but won't go overboard. It is so fresh and 'timeless' funky
Most of the comment: he is the definition of humble
Yoji: “ blink “ * 1000 times
Generations ahead of his time. We're still catching up to ideas he was over when pagers were the norm and a smartphone was something only seen in science fiction.
Love him,always did. I see him as unbelievably talented and sophisticated. His works are pieces of art.
I've always said if I get married it will be in a y's suit I remember sitting reading men's l'uomo vogue in the 8os.drooling.over he's peace's ...so simple but amazing
He is a real legend.
Que interesante Yamamoto!! Adelantado,futurista.glamour sobrio …poderoso black!! Ultra vanguardia !!💥🪄escultor de diseños geniales …formas desestructuradas cargadas de belleza …conceptos de moda alternativos al clasicismo !.asimetría y juego de formas texturas volumen . Increíble !!💗✨👌👏👏👏👏🚀
True artists don’t concern themselves with money😌💕
I still cry about hsi perfume that he discontinued. Yojhi by yojhi yammaoto was my favorite scent. Now there is so many other types that just arent that one
He sees a tired old man. I see a cool looking older dude:-)
Super cool...
I see a tired old man. A totally predictable rebel rebelling against nothing.
@@chrisfisher7288 CVS vs
@@martineshamzin7535 okay Karen
Reminded me of my grandma. She was the oldest living Hualapia tribal member when she passed on. However, to me, she was just my crazy silly grandma with whom I used to make jewelry with & sell at Grand Canyon West🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤
the word amazing is simply not enough for him...hope to work for him after graduation...
You are so right Boya. Good luck getting a spot with his company.
LOL! No one is going to be working after graduation. The economy is gone for good. Wake up. Quarantine has eternally ended the need for fashion. But hey, maybe you can "rebel" along with Yojo against the "racists"....who are mostly people saying they don't want to have their earnings taxed while crooks in Washington pile up billions.
@@martineshamzin7535 c’mon Martine girl , don’t you have anything positive to say instead of answering really negative things to every single comments. Just say u don’t like it and go instead of spread your negativity nobody cares of what an old mean lady thinks
@@martineshamzin7535 eyup martine, cheer up a bit
This has been my favorite fashion documentary ! . Words cannot express how much I love this man . The humility ; the genius ; just like Yohji, I am born during a wartime & his personality resembles mine.. ❤️❤️❤️thank u 4this .
Wow, thank you!
@@Fashionindustrybroadcast ....the BOMB....changed EVERYTHING for all of the Asian people of that generation....and continues to influence their following generations since...
Lad, the soundtrack, everything it's simply astonishing. Terrific work, absolutely superb. You're a proper artisan. This is so refreshing, because I can genuinely relate to it. Best regards
Thanks again!
I 100% agree !!
This film is the best think I’ve seen on CZcams xxxxx
Very humble man. I first saw his clothing in the eighties in my twenties. I dressed very rockinroll, punk, avant garde in black. I love color, but seem to always wear black and white. I've come full circle and loving this look again. Being different is always better.😎
Seeing his arts & creations a 35years ago Solid &timeless his past presence& future; Best wishes for you dear Yohji&family
Thank you very much. As Yohji says, do you still want to fight ? What an inspiration !
Yamamoto = The Goat and one true Renegade...paved the way for a lot of designs and designers alike; to think outside the norm and be able to express whatever inspires them. Thanks for this beautiful video, very well made!
Thank you Kontra, glad you felt the love we have for this amazing artist ! x
I totally agree
I love this man and everything he has ever done and still does
He is a genius, absolutely, I love his fashion, he is a poetic man . Great
HE'S JUST AWESOME!!!!!!!!!
LOVE his fashion ,structure....he has an eye for trendy...but classy...oh my gosh just LOVE this....😮❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Brilliant ahead of its time.
What his mom said explained the fundamentals of his thinking.
Today, he has given me a wonderful perspective on everything I love about his life and design on Earth and appreciation for persiveverance beyond comfort.
It wasn't him Nor it was me ! Paul G Roberts who made the film ;)
This is so emotional and empowering! Thank you for the film FIB!
Thank you for your kind words. They mean a lot to us, that our work has moved you.
Im proud of you Yamamoto san as a being great designer
Im a fashion student who had to build a concept around him and this was so helpful, thank you
my favourite designer ever! I adore his clothes! he's my favourite since I was an adolescent! simply genious! If it were possible I would dress only in his clothes!
This was a beautiful documentary. Thanks !
Glad you enjoyed it!
I am a Namibian 🇳🇦fashion designer student ,
Last year my inspiration was driven from some of your collection, I love your creativity ❤️❤️
Thanks for sharing!!
A fashion legend
I like so much his style !!! Genious ❤🎉😊
Очень люблю ваше оригинальное творчество-оно не похоже на других...Оно индивидуально!🙏❤️🙏 Очень внимательно смотрю за вашими новинками,Вы удивительный человек!!!❤️❤️❤️
Legend man respect 🌷
Идеальный. Лаконичный. Комфортный. Навсегда.
Perfect matching.
👏👏👏
0llop
My kind of clothing.
Снят фильм со вкусом , композиционно грамотно и изящно по цвету. Все пронизано культурой этой страны 👍
Great job!
Love his Disighs 😍😍😍
Legend Designer, legend Fashion!
Respect Yohji Yamamoto.
He made black colorful
Glorious clothes!!!
Love the cloths such and empowering couple
Loved this!
Hey Louis you should check the other 5 we have made in this Series of 11.
RENEGADES SERIES TRAILER
czcams.com/video/wVV7JRpRIXk/video.html
KENZO - RENEGADES OF FASHION
czcams.com/video/lVUgaIslkNY/video.html
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD - RENEGADES OF FASHION FILM SERIES
TRAILER LINK ON FIB fashionindustrybroadcast.com/2019/11/27/trailer-vivienne-westwood-renegades-of-fashion/
czcams.com/video/I9VeW6z4xIU/video.html
REI KAWAKUBO - COMME des GARCONS - RENEGADES OF FASHION FILM SERIES
TRAILER - REI KAWAKUBO - RENEGADES OF FASHION.
FIB link fashionindustrybroadcast.com/2019/11/20/trailer-rei-kawakubo-renegades-of-fashion/
czcams.com/video/eSpk6Z4BB0I/video.html
FULL FILM
czcams.com/video/fHayspt14_c/video.html
HEDI SLIMANE - RENEGADES OF FASHION FILM SERIES
FIB TRAILER LINK - fashionindustrybroadcast.com/2019/11/28/trailer-hedi-slimane-renegades-of-fashion/
czcams.com/video/VkRgDKQ2yuU/video.html
JEREMY SCOTT - RENEGADES OF FASHION FILM SERIES
TRAILER LINK ON FIB fashionindustrybroadcast.com/2019/11/21/trailer-jeremy-scott-renegades-of-fashion/
czcams.com/video/Uqi-gtFc3dE/video.html
From Mexico, wonderful men
I just want to be like YoYa when I grow up.
Genius
I really like how you edited the video at the end with his quotes. A very nice touch (:
Thank you very much!
Tiene un estilo de diseño como para el día a día... Industrial y los tonos de la ropa crudos eso me gusta, ropa comoda.
Great work! Bravo✌🦅🐾💚💜🫂🐼
Thank you! Cheers!
LEGEND
Yohsy Yamamoto different
concept fashion shows.
reallly enjoyed this tnx
Glad you enjoyed it
the most timeless designer oat
Great film!!
Yohji hide and after show what it is inside de dressing code garments.
He likes to work what is imperfect, ecletic design. He dress oversize garments, but still clean and minimalist. He don't tell us almost all information. He is quiet and inspired like black colors oon his pantone and spirit of moon kind of.
estou obcecada.
amazing thanks thanks
Thank you too!
Humble Respects Too This Incredible Artist, The Cloth speaks for it self - is Dancing in Silence with noisless effort worn on the Skin effortlessly made for Humanity by One Who Understands Movement in Timelessness Beautiful.
Beautiful man.
Birdy
Up Yohaji !
Amazing man 💐
Thank you so much 😀
beautiful
Many many thanks
RESPECT RESPECT RESPECT
2021 EVERYONES STILL WEARING "HIGH HEELS AND SEQUINS" YAWN!
♥🔥
Just put a de-esser on the voice 👌
Super
Thanks
Is it normal to cry when watching this?
Yes everyone has emotion responses to this film. I still do, and I made it ! Thank you x
This guy ⚡️
This guy too ! McQueen
J'aime d'habillement johji yamamoto
Arigato, monsieur
Thankfully
one thing mentioned that irked me was saying that the store Sex was maclaren's, when vivienne westwood was the co owner and designer
I would love to be creative director, an apprentice first for a luxury brand my time is coming.
Why am I crying lmao?
真不明白為何他的靈感和創意可以源源不絕只要看他為A字設計的鞋唔到你唔服!👍👏
moda as vezes é só modas, consenso passageiro. é tentar ser bonito fingindo ser.
Well, I don't blame him for wanting to leave the financial end of the business to people who have THAT skill. He is the artist with the extraordinary gift...it would be quite astonishing if he could have handled BOTH aspects. However, I think as a designer or artist, you have to maintain a basic knowledge about what's happening on the business side of things. You have to maintain a visible and invested interest in the bottom line and what's coming in vs what's going out, otherwise people WILL take advantage of you.
Йоджи йоджи цамамото йоджи йамамото сан, тот кто йоджи намаммотан, не поймёт как счастлив сам)
Yamimoto Nokamina the best
Although I still like Yohji Yamamoto's designs, I think the label has already become mainstream once the scions of the new rich start to consider it in the same breath as say, Gucci. He may no longer be a renegade, as much as his PR company constantly promotes him to be (like requesting him to keep his hair long).
I feel bad I only heard of the man now
best
Excellent 👌🌹🥰
Thank you! Cheers!
@@Fashionindustrybroadcast Welcome 😍
@@Fashionindustrybroadcast Welcome ❤️
昭和時代にY'Sとコムデギャルソンは異質に光っていた。
Great video! What's the soundtrack around the 28:00 mark?
🖤
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤