wiring good. starter caps good. bad relays will need to be replaced down the road. picked the unit up for parts! looks like ill keep it together.. www.danby.com/...
This is the same problem that I'm having with a DeLonghi, guessing it's a rebadged Whynter. As indicated, the relay for the exhaust fan was the culprit, a couple of taps, and then the fan came on with no problem. I found an a new, exact replacement board for $24 online and that solved the problem. Thanks for your video and your high level of troubleshooting expertise.
Thanks for posting this. My unit is slightly different and the motor wires to a terminal block instead of a relay, and I do have 110v there (kind of strange that it isn't 117 or 120v). But you gave me some ideas such as just putting 120v to the fan and capacitor to see if it is good, and I am also going to check for a relay that might power that terminal block. Maybe it is a weak connection on the relay so not enough current can flow for the fan. I tested one cap which is good but don't know if it is run or start. There is another near the control board so I will check that while I am looking at the relays.
Mine is loud for the past year. I figure its a capacitor dying or something up with the condenser fan blade or the evaporator fan blade. Machine is 13 years old now. So probably a capacitor right? I have no way to tell if its pulling more from the wall than it used to. But it just sounds rough so I think cap starting to die, any second guesses anyone? Anyone know what cap goes in? Looked it up got manuals and its not in there. Guess I will just have to open it up and buy a digital muti meter because my analog doesnt measure micro farad for capacitance.
Can you share with me the wiring configuration? I disassembled mine for cleaning and I forgot to take pictures of what goes where, please and thank you
i'm trying to remove the front shell off a single-hose port. danby nearly identical and it's caught up on the top air louver my other danby is a/c & heat with 2 hoses & sounds like a crazy clicking relay, it will cycle clicks throughout the day thanks
We have a similar unit, model number is: DPAC 12011 BL. It's several years old now, but I'm wondering if you've got any ideas as to what may be going on and if it's repairable. We've noticed that at times, it will switch to fan once the machine is reading 20-22 degrees Celsius, when we have it set for 16, so it thereby should continuously run. When this does happen, it will run on fan for a couple of minutes, and then go back to AC mode, and the cycle will repeat itself. Now as I'm typing this, it's working fine of course, so it must depend on the temperature and humidity level of the ambient air? Any insight you may have is apprecited
I was able to purchase an exact match control board for $24 which saves me time in sourcing the relays. Anybody that can do Legos can change the board out. The part is: Whynter Portable Air Conditioner with Heater main PCB Part ARC-CTRLBRD-750
I have this identical machine, do you know why it doesn't have two hoses? I bought it used and thought maybe a hose got lost or broken. I also heard you can cover that one on the left and it runs more efficiently, do you know if this is true?
you can run it with one hose. dont cover the intake . needs to take air in to cool the Evaporator Coil. other problem with one hose is its take cool air in from the room and pumping it outside.. not very efficient in that setup.
@@KarmaElectronics. Thank you, I feel like it isn't working well, but not sure if it's that my room is too big. I have high ceilings. I started with putting the ceiling fans on reverse to draw the air up, but it didn't cool the room. Now I am trying to see if I leave them off it will be better.
damn was hoping you need to pull the condenser fan out since that's what failed on my unit like the motor is fine the fan is got a whole bunch of broken blades so it won't blow out the hot air anymore I can get the fan from Danby just not sure about how to get the fan out of the unit so far. thanks
8:34 Can you please tell if possible what that switch in the lower left on the back of the unit is for? I see that it appears to open or shut air access through those small little holes but not sure what for? I looked everywhere online and in the manual but can't find anything about it.
i have a Danby 13009 portable air conditioner, it has alarm when I turn on, it beeps a few times but will not start, I changed the control board and checked all moters and they all run, the float switch is working and the sensors check ok. so I dont know what is causing this fault. can some one help please.
from what i remember there where screws around the exhaust vents. even with all the screws out its a pain to open. getting it back together is even harder.
You have to get all the screws out in the back. Look also on the sides of the AC. There is one screw on the bottom left side and one on the bottom right side. It’s not glued. There is about 8 screws in total. I own the same model and love it. You can also take out the front cover by gently prying out by the sides as well until it clicks open but try not to be rough with it or you can break the plastic. The inside front cover has 2 flat 1inch cables on top connected to circuit board I guess. Be gentle. These portable and window can last a long time if you don’t get a Freon leak in the copper pipes But you have to remove the cover of the AC every 3-4 years and clean the inside because you get lots of dust stuck on the evaporator and condenser fins and all over the inside of the AC. Use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment for the fins and crevice attachment attachment for hard to reach areas. I sell used ACs and once I buy them, I always open the covers and clean the inside. (1 hour work). One time a woman sold me her AC for $20 because she said it didn’t cool enough. There was half inch of dust on the evaporator fins that pealed off like a carpet. I sold it for $160. Manufacturers don’t tell you to clean the inside of your AC because they want you to go buy a new one. But all you need to do is open the covers and clean the inside of any dust and cobwebs. You’d be surprised how much better you AC cools after a good vacuuming inside. The model on the video showed minus 1 degree showing on my temperature gauge that I purchased on Amazon. After cleaning the AC, I pointed the temperature gauge in the opening where the cool air blows out, and it read minus 12. So so much better and the AC could cool a 3 bedroom apartment easily now.
@@KarmaElectronics. thanks because it kept saying stop and I was pressing the restart button then when I took out the water I turned it on and it worked btw I got the same one but my has holes that go outside
where in a second heat wave this year. 2020 this unit has never let me down..
It kept leaking when it was on.
This is the same problem that I'm having with a DeLonghi, guessing it's a rebadged Whynter. As indicated, the relay for the exhaust fan was the culprit, a couple of taps, and then the fan came on with no problem. I found an a new, exact replacement board for $24 online and that solved the problem. Thanks for your video and your high level of troubleshooting expertise.
Thanks for posting this. My unit is slightly different and the motor wires to a terminal block instead of a relay, and I do have 110v there (kind of strange that it isn't 117 or 120v). But you gave me some ideas such as just putting 120v to the fan and capacitor to see if it is good, and I am also going to check for a relay that might power that terminal block. Maybe it is a weak connection on the relay so not enough current can flow for the fan. I tested one cap which is good but don't know if it is run or start. There is another near the control board so I will check that while I am looking at the relays.
Nice video, I learned some things.
Thanks for posting.
Mine is loud for the past year. I figure its a capacitor dying or something up with the condenser fan blade or the evaporator fan blade. Machine is 13 years old now. So probably a capacitor right? I have no way to tell if its pulling more from the wall than it used to. But it just sounds rough so I think cap starting to die, any second guesses anyone? Anyone know what cap goes in? Looked it up got manuals and its not in there. Guess I will just have to open it up and buy a digital muti meter because my analog doesnt measure micro farad for capacitance.
It's a dual hose unit. For the intake hose and the back filter - as a pre filter I use poly-fil, its cheap and reusable.
Can you share with me the wiring configuration? I disassembled mine for cleaning and I forgot to take pictures of what goes where, please and thank you
i'm trying to remove the front shell off a single-hose port. danby nearly identical and it's caught up on the top air louver
my other danby is a/c & heat with 2 hoses & sounds like a crazy clicking relay, it will cycle clicks throughout the day
thanks
We have a similar unit, model number is: DPAC 12011 BL. It's several years old now, but I'm wondering if you've got any ideas as to what may be going on and if it's repairable. We've noticed that at times, it will switch to fan once the machine is reading 20-22 degrees Celsius, when we have it set for 16, so it thereby should continuously run. When this does happen, it will run on fan for a couple of minutes, and then go back to AC mode, and the cycle will repeat itself. Now as I'm typing this, it's working fine of course, so it must depend on the temperature and humidity level of the ambient air?
Any insight you may have is apprecited
you likely would have to pull the mainboard out and replace all the relays.
I was able to purchase an exact match control board for $24 which saves me time in sourcing the relays. Anybody that can do Legos can change the board out. The part is: Whynter Portable Air Conditioner with Heater main PCB Part ARC-CTRLBRD-750
I have the same model, put when compressor kicks to loud and vibrator the whole unit, any suggestion on how to fix it ? Thanks
could be a bad run capacitor or the rubber feet on the compressor have dried up a hardened. hard to say
I have this identical machine, do you know why it doesn't have two hoses? I bought it used and thought maybe a hose got lost or broken. I also heard you can cover that one on the left and it runs more efficiently, do you know if this is true?
you can run it with one hose. dont cover the intake . needs to take air in to cool the Evaporator Coil. other problem with one hose is its take cool air in from the room and pumping it outside.. not very efficient in that setup.
@@KarmaElectronics. Thank you, I feel like it isn't working well, but not sure if it's that my room is too big. I have high ceilings. I started with putting the ceiling fans on reverse to draw the air up, but it didn't cool the room. Now I am trying to see if I leave them off it will be better.
@@trudymautz4388 it will be better if you just use something for the hose. Don't try anything else.
damn was hoping you need to pull the condenser fan out since that's what failed on my unit like the motor is fine the fan is got a whole bunch of broken blades so it won't blow out the hot air anymore I can get the fan from Danby just not sure about how to get the fan out of the unit so far. thanks
i think i attempted it once. never got it off.
8:34 Can you please tell if possible what that switch in the lower left on the back of the unit is for? I see that it appears to open or shut air access through those small little holes but not sure what for? I looked everywhere online and in the manual but can't find anything about it.
i have a Danby 13009 portable air conditioner, it has alarm when I turn on, it beeps a few times but will not start, I changed the control board and checked all moters and they all run, the float switch is working and the sensors check ok. so I dont know what is causing this fault. can some one help please.
Hi just bought one of these but remote does not work. Do u know how to adjust tem without remote?
May I please ask:
WHAT does that back little switch do? It seemingly just closes the vent beside it, but what is the purpose?
i see it never used it. i would guess its to divert the water from back to bottom drain
how do you get the back off? I removed all the screws and still can't budge the back Is it glued on as well
from what i remember there where screws around the exhaust vents. even with all the screws out its a pain to open. getting it back together is even harder.
You have to get all the screws out in the back. Look also on the sides of the AC. There is one screw on the bottom left side and one on the bottom right side. It’s not glued. There is about 8 screws in total. I own the same model and love it. You can also take out the front cover by gently prying out by the sides as well until it clicks open but try not to be rough with it or you can break the plastic. The inside front cover has 2 flat 1inch cables on top connected to circuit board I guess. Be gentle. These portable and window can last a long time if you don’t get a Freon leak in the copper pipes But you have to remove the cover of the AC every 3-4 years and clean the inside because you get lots of dust stuck on the evaporator and condenser fins and all over the inside of the AC. Use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment for the fins and crevice attachment attachment for hard to reach areas. I sell used ACs and once I buy them, I always open the covers and clean the inside. (1 hour work). One time a woman sold me her AC for $20 because she said it didn’t cool enough. There was half inch of dust on the evaporator fins that pealed off like a carpet. I sold it for $160. Manufacturers don’t tell you to clean the inside of your AC because they want you to go buy a new one. But all you need to do is open the covers and clean the inside of any dust and cobwebs. You’d be surprised how much better you AC cools after a good vacuuming inside. The model on the video showed minus 1 degree showing on my temperature gauge that I purchased on Amazon. After cleaning the AC, I pointed the temperature gauge in the opening where the cool air blows out, and it read minus 12. So so much better and the AC could cool a 3 bedroom apartment easily now.
Thanks because it kept beeping
if it stops. running and starts beeping the bottom tray is full of water. i tip it on its side and drain it with a towel.
@@KarmaElectronics. thanks because it kept saying stop and I was pressing the restart button then when I took out the water I turned it on and it worked btw I got the same one but my has holes that go outside
How did you take the back off
There are about 8 screws including the bottom sides of the AC.