bro i thought u got that big job in saudi on a sky scraper , and just done one on us ,keep it up ,u will b spotted soon by the right person hopefully,keep up the gud work ,but dont leave us ,u r a top teacher ,u give me motivation and confidence.thanks
Great video. Just one point: The grind out disks being thick have much more inertia than a normal cutting disk. Think they tighten while the grinder starting and running, but when you stop the disk tries to keep going and will untighten the nut. I know this being a dummy and putting the nut on the wrong way round. Dooooooooh! So I would make sure the nut is tight as well as getting it on the right way round (flat to the disk). Up a ladder, the disk fell off when I stopped grinding, missed my leg and clanged onto floor, but fortunately I'd put wooden boards down so disk ok. Lesson learned. You did get me to do some brickwork after about 30 years and start repointing cracking around my lintels (not enough mortar used originally) so huge thanks for that and all the great videos.
I've 3d printed dust guard for angle grinder and made hoover interceptor tank which allows me to use almost any hoover for this job. I don't even wear dust mask as there is almost no dust while grinding. The amount of dust from the walls grinded on video should be several bags, but it's spreaded all over this place. I wouldn't also advise leaving the grinder running on the floor. It's very dangerous for the user and also the grinder is sucking dust from the floor which will cause overheating and may be blown through the user face by the grinder fan. Otherwise good video.
Started a union tuckpointing job in the states I been grinding like you for a decade. They have vacuum grinders with double blades shrouds you cant see around plus a full face respirator. I prefer a 1/4" thick blade like you. Big learning curve in between the two. Thought I knew it all. Nope.
Me and my pal used to grind out and point chimney stacks for a few years... He would insist on using a plugging chisel because of the dust. He didn't last long doing it his way though as time is money!!! Out of all the grinders that we used, Makita was the most robust I found. Mikuakee, DeWalt, Ryobi, AEG, Bosch and a few other cheap ones would burn out surprisingly easy, but the Makita was a workhorse... Not sure if they've changed the design and are still decent..
I do this everyday. To start with you want a hoover and a shroud for all dust. Sheet up. When it's all ground wash it down. Then point it. Your making a right mess
If the owner has no damp and it looks like they got a good rubble base between the wall and patio, pointless job yeah the previous pointing was crap but it did the job, the walls just need sealing now.
Hey mate great job. Mate is masonry restoration such as brick and stone pointing, masonry waterproofing, brick repair, and lead flashing repair a good service to provide when promoting masonry restoration?
OMG does not need to be done, yeah the mortar flush with the the edge but its solid, no cracks or breaks water sealant spray would of solved this as the brickwork not damaged, no need to rake out the mortar , job not needed...
Just fid 150 hours of grinding in 3 weeks.. the shit will burn you out.. 112°f full sun, long pants, long sleeves, full facemask, in a lift.. pain in the ol ass. I miss my residential self employed days.. when it came time to re mud we wasted probably a skid of mud in slop.. then another 3 days to wash.. seemed rather asinine to not put ground protection down so we spent 2 days hauling all the dry slop to the bin and raking a 16" tall grass free of every crumble. Seemed like a rather large waste of money and labor. When if we did it cleanly we would have saved both money and time.
Battery Grinders will cut it, I chased the whole of the back of my house out with a Makita 18v 5AH and it never missed a beat. You will need two batteries though.👌
The suggested mixes of 1:3 or 1:4 appear overly strong and this is probably similar to the existing grey cement rich mortar. Generally speaking, joints should be raked out to at least twice their width, mortar pointing is a sacrificial material and should be weaker and more vapour permeable than the bricks, and the finished profile should ideally match the original design. A 1:1:6 mortar would probably be more appropriate. If any would-be pointers require reliable technical guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides authourative further information, including recommended mortar mixes, when does worn pointing affect structural integrity and the importance of using lime pointing on old solid walls.
That's what I call 'an honest day's work!' Very informative too.
bro i thought u got that big job in saudi on a sky scraper , and just done one on us ,keep it up ,u will b spotted soon by the right person hopefully,keep up the gud work ,but dont leave us ,u r a top teacher ,u give me motivation and confidence.thanks
U are like me Changy...hated by all neighbours lol apparently the guy with the mixer that always doing something 🤣🤣
Never leave your grinder running when unattended. Cause some damaged if flips over with vibration
its going to look mint when done mate,
Great video. Just one point: The grind out disks being thick have much more inertia than a normal cutting disk. Think they tighten while the grinder starting and running, but when you stop the disk tries to keep going and will untighten the nut. I know this being a dummy and putting the nut on the wrong way round. Dooooooooh! So I would make sure the nut is tight as well as getting it on the right way round (flat to the disk). Up a ladder, the disk fell off when I stopped grinding, missed my leg and clanged onto floor, but fortunately I'd put wooden boards down so disk ok. Lesson learned. You did get me to do some brickwork after about 30 years and start repointing cracking around my lintels (not enough mortar used originally) so huge thanks for that and all the great videos.
i'd get like 10 minutes into this job and think...fuck this 😂
Good hustle mate after been on the drink last night. Good worker. all the best from Scully
Safety hoodie and safety shorts. Good call.
I've 3d printed dust guard for angle grinder and made hoover interceptor tank which allows me to use almost any hoover for this job. I don't even wear dust mask as there is almost no dust while grinding. The amount of dust from the walls grinded on video should be several bags, but it's spreaded all over this place. I wouldn't also advise leaving the grinder running on the floor. It's very dangerous for the user and also the grinder is sucking dust from the floor which will cause overheating and may be blown through the user face by the grinder fan. Otherwise good video.
Careful with the hoodie cord's, seen a lad nearly killed by grinding out, good vid
DONT USE THAT THING GET A PROPER BRICK CHASER WITH DUST EXTRACTOR FROM HIRE SHOP
Great video Changy, your patio would look great with some patio doors from your lounge. Top work though.
That's what I'm doing, you can see I didn't bother to grind out underneath because it will be knocked out
I would love too be your neebur and see who can wake up the neighbourhood first on a Saturday morning😁😁😁 I was out at 7am with rip snorter😜
Love the content 👍🏻
cheers
I have a McAllister grinder from B&Q and it does the job.
Changy the cow horn master 🍺
Started a union tuckpointing job in the states I been grinding like you for a decade. They have vacuum grinders with double blades shrouds you cant see around plus a full face respirator. I prefer a 1/4" thick blade like you. Big learning curve in between the two. Thought I knew it all. Nope.
What a Plank 😂 talks a good job
Your neighbours are gonna love you 😍
they already hate me
@@Changy_C Naver mind
That’s one of those I’d start and never finish fuck that😂 gotta give it to you, I know it’s gonna look top when it’s done
Grim old job that, can taste the dust from here!
We used to do it with plugging chisel harder work but cleaner.
Me and my pal used to grind out and point chimney stacks for a few years...
He would insist on using a plugging chisel because of the dust.
He didn't last long doing it his way though as time is money!!!
Out of all the grinders that we used, Makita was the most robust I found.
Mikuakee, DeWalt, Ryobi, AEG, Bosch and a few other cheap ones would burn out surprisingly easy, but the Makita was a workhorse... Not sure if they've changed the design and are still decent..
I do this everyday. To start with you want a hoover and a shroud for all dust. Sheet up. When it's all ground wash it down. Then point it. Your making a right mess
😂
Thats why i binned the MacAlastair corded cause the switch was crap
Your a grafter you Changy, credit to you 👍
I try shag
Use an arbotech allsaw, comes with hoover attachment,much quicker thand grinder and not much dust.Its a great bit of kit.
That thing costs ~1200 euro vs a 30 euro grinder
What’s a Hoover attachment ?
Did u get brick dust over neighbours cars it will wreck paintwork even if u wash off with hose pipe
If the owner has no damp and it looks like they got a good rubble base between the wall and patio, pointless job yeah the previous pointing was crap but it did the job, the walls just need sealing now.
Dust bag on yer grinder and use 110 plug with transformer so that client does not have a big leaky bill
Is there a Part #2 please ?
Hey mate great job. Mate is masonry restoration such as brick and stone pointing, masonry waterproofing, brick repair, and lead flashing repair a good service to provide when promoting masonry restoration?
i would say so yeah
You ruff mate
Was there a lot of red brick dust on the floor? Were the bricks getting chipped and damaged using this method? Will the faces get blown in the winter?
no, the joints are wide so didnt really touch the bricks. the faces wont blow because il have it jointed for then
He could have saved a lot of time by using a dust bag. Less to clean up and more health.
OMG does not need to be done, yeah the mortar flush with the the edge but its solid, no cracks or breaks water sealant spray would of solved this as the brickwork not damaged, no need to rake out the mortar , job not needed...
Hello,please can you recommend who do best repointing?Thank you
Just fid 150 hours of grinding in 3 weeks.. the shit will burn you out.. 112°f full sun, long pants, long sleeves, full facemask, in a lift.. pain in the ol ass. I miss my residential self employed days.. when it came time to re mud we wasted probably a skid of mud in slop.. then another 3 days to wash.. seemed rather asinine to not put ground protection down so we spent 2 days hauling all the dry slop to the bin and raking a 16" tall grass free of every crumble. Seemed like a rather large waste of money and labor. When if we did it cleanly we would have saved both money and time.
Hi mate can I ask you a quick question thanks 😃
What happened to your live video with Scott and Dean last night?
Part 2??
You should also get some hearing protection
yes, i was listening to music with my head[hones
Battery Grinders will cut it, I chased the whole of the back of my house out with a Makita 18v 5AH and it never missed a beat. You will need two batteries though.👌
I always thought new mortar and old mortar do not stick
Hello m8 will you be removing the down pies to get behind them 🤔👍
Yeah, il be replacing all of the plastics
ummm no window protection incase of a brick shard does the dirty............don't think being NEG but it can happen
How old is this house?
Cant belive you did not cover down on your new patio and white stones my missis would have killed me
All washes off mate I don't sweat it
At least you let her get the laundry in, good enough.
Mate can’t believe you didn’t grind it all out before you done your garden 🤷🏻♂️
The Mrs wouldn't wait so had to leave it till now
The suggested mixes of 1:3 or 1:4 appear overly strong and this is probably similar to the existing grey cement rich mortar.
Generally speaking, joints should be raked out to at least twice their width, mortar pointing is a sacrificial material and should be weaker and more vapour permeable than the bricks, and the finished profile should ideally match the original design. A 1:1:6 mortar would probably be more appropriate.
If any would-be pointers require reliable technical guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides authourative further information, including recommended mortar mixes, when does worn pointing affect structural integrity and the importance of using lime pointing on old solid walls.
Good advice
Hello,Please can you recommend who do best repointing?
Alright mate can you help me with making some spot stand out of wool like yours please many thanks
Sure he did a rough video about it
Could be asbestos in that old mortar
Hey mate have you stopped making these films ? Craig.
I have been stopped filming on site temporarily
should of done that before doing ya garden bud :D
definatley
Sooo glad I'm not your neighbour. Plus don't have the mix any stronger than 6 +1+1
Changy taking video ideas from stoke stoves and maintenance channel
Shut it ya drip changy can post what he likes !! When I find ya I’m gunna do ya 👍
Need a worker?
Get the proper gear mate that dust will kill you
5n1 is plenty strong enough
This guy is clumsy and cumbersome and looks like Al the builder from Alan Partridge 😂
Not right no gloves on
work from top down for less dusting out
hose it down works ok for me
Could be asbestos in that old mortar
Could be asbestos in that old mortar