What to Look for in a Salvage Yard Engine or Transmission
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- **Sponsored Video**Purchasing a salvage engine or transmission can save you a lot of money over buying new. Not every deal is a good one though. You need to look the engine or transmission over before you purchase it. This video outlines some of the things to look for in a salvage yard engine or transmission.
If you're not familiar with Pull-A-Part, they're a self service salvage company in the US. They have 25 yards in 12 states. I'm not just saying this, but they've become my favorite place to go for salvage parts. I suggest you check them out.
To make it easy, here's a link to their website: www.pullapart.com
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haha Eric just told me to avoid using the engine in my own car
Ha!
lmao same, my engine burns oil
My undercarriage is all oily from various assorted leaks. Mine would get passed up.
+Matt In Illinois hahaha, nah man crusties on the oil cap
+dosmastrify not white (good head gasket, knock on wood) , just crap like he show in the vid
I got my T5 transmission from salvage. I cracked it open, installed it into my auto to manual swap mustang, and works like a charm. Saved 500 dollars.
What was your total cost? I want to do the same thing. There is a guy on ebay selling complete swap kits but he wants $3,500.
Only $500? Relative to used only, right? Refurbished is way more expensive.
I think common courtesy like your other vid is extremely important. Put the dipstick, spark plugs, oil cap/filter, back after inspecting them for the next guy.
Most people aren’t that courteous
It's obvious when you think about it in hindsight but I never even considered looking for cars with crash damage. Awesome tip, thanks Eric!
I mean logically it makes sense, vehicles that were in crashed 9 times out of 10 had to be operational at the time of the crash. But you still have to be careful, if front end damage occurred, a lot of times engines still run if unless fuel shutoff pump killed the engine. I say this because a lot of front end crashes destroy the radiator and oil coolers which can cause quick overheat.
This is such a clean salvage yard. The U pull it yards near me are all muddy with broken interior parts all over the ground.
when ron's pull a part in greer, sc opened up, it was so clean, not even a drop of oil on the gravel. that was 4 years ago now it looks like the bottom of a fish tank. they also got bought by lkq. all pull a parts are clean at first but they get dirty after a while.
I go to this exact yard sometimes and yeah it's amazing how clean it is. They used to let you ride golf carts around too. But now you just get a wheel barrow lol.
Sup burg bro. It is super shitty. I've been there.
The u pull in Pittsburgh is in good shape like just like this one. Crushed stones, all level and organized rows.
You probably mean “u pull and pay” Pittsburgh. It has only opened a year ago. I hope it remains as clean as it is now. Pull a part was supposed to open a Pittsburgh. Location. But it looks like they abandoned the project.
Also look in the glovebox and trunk, you may find maintenance records or other hints. As an example, if you find an empty bottle from head gasket stop leak in the trunk, you may not want to risk buying the engine from that car as it likely has a blown head gasket.
Whether it be after or before work, during the day or night, I really enjoy your videos. My grandad had a car shop and my dad just liked working on cars, but I wasn't into cars like that back as a kid and never got a chance to learn from them before they died. Your videos provide so much info. The fact that you're so casual about all the work makes it easy to relate to and easy to grab.
Sorry to hear about your grandad. Thanks very much for your comment. I really appreciate it.
+EricTheCarGuy Eh, that's life. I appreciate it though. Just keep up the amazing work!
Also look in the glovebox. It might still contain all the service records and books all stamped up. Id say thats a great sign if its been regularly or recently serviced.
Lookout for worn / broken timing belts
With automatics the first thing i do is drop the pan, if theres anything chunky or gritty in there its probably not a good one. On most vehicles its fairly easy to drop the pan and gaskets are cheap (plus should change the filter anyway. Something else you can do is open the transmission cooler lines. They may drain the pan but they never get all the fluid out of the cooler.
Appreciate the honesty. “This is what to look for, don’t buy anything you aren’t confident you can fix.”
One thing you can add to the list of what to look for is if you know your vehicle uses an interference engine walk away from any engines in the yard that have broken timing belts, belts with missing teeth, tensioners and their pulleys that are shot, or wobbly water pumps if timing belt driven. Valves and pistons meeting may be the very reason it's there.
On automatic transmissions pull the pan and look at the filter and magnet. They use a vacuum system to suck out the fluid from the TC and transmission usually through the cooler return line, it can't get it all though so there will be some left int he pan.
Before pulling the plugs, I also spin the engine over 720*. You will feel the number of compression strokes the engine has by it getting hard then slapping past it. If it skips a compression stroke (NO RESISTANCE), you can bet it has low compression on that cylinder. If that checks out, switch to a breaker bar and turn the crank back and forth , then turn 90* and turn it back and forth. do this a total of 4 times. any loose rod bearings will show themselves to you right quick. you will feel a clunk when you switch directions of the breaker bar. I also recommend pulling the oil pan and looking for metal stew. I have found quite a few spun bearings on subarus this way.
When acquiring a salvage yard engine,if I can't hear it run I always ask questions like why the vehicle was submitted and how long they've had it.At the least,replacing the oil pump,front and rear seals and all the gaskets is something I like to do before instaltion.For the extra $150-200 and some time,at least you get to see where everything's at,have no leaks and know oil pressure isn't going to be an issue.Its still cheaper than a full-blown rebuild or a reman.Have dodged installing 4 bad motors that way so far too.
You can also look for signs that the automatic transmission has been serviced. Stay away if it is a high mileage vehicle with no evidence that the transmission pan plug or the pan bolts have ever been removed. You can also pull the pan and check the magnets and look for excess clutch material.
Check for oil change stickers and owners manuals for mileages. I pull the transmission pans to check/smell the fluid left in them. Yes, it's drained but typically enough to check what state it was left in and if there's any chunks. Also, you can inpect the magnet to see what it's attracted. If you're getting a transmission, make sure to bar the engine over. You might have a engine with a thrown rod that will prevent you from getting all the bolts from the torque converter. Check all the cars on your potential list before choosing on. You just might run into the engine/transmission that you need already pulled laying at the vehicle.
We now have used car sales here in Winston Salem, NC. They're priced to sell too! Wonder what other states have that. Good luck
Good tip. Thanks for the insight.
+EricTheCarGuy No, thank you for the many, many videos you've posted. I must say your channel is loaded with a wealth of information. I need to make my way to your site one day.
Thank you very much for that comment. As for the website, why wait? www.ericthecarguy.com
+EricTheCarGuy walking the salvage yard sure makes me think of my Dad when I was little he sure showed me alot about vehicles.
oil filters will still have oil in them. I always pour a little out and inspect it
Great tip.
In the salvages yards where I usually come they remove the filter and replace it with a screw on cap, no luck there ;). Though if you unscrew them some oil will flow out, so the filter could still be a solution. (just don't let it flow into the ground, and screw it back in when you're done )
You're in the wrong brand section to be looking for an engine or transmission! ;)
You noticed?
+EricTheCarGuy The irony was hard to miss
what brand was it, I'm watching in 144p
marcus Alan
He's in the Chrysler section.
thank you
Good video, useful information. The junk yard down the road from where I live has most of it's cars striped of all the good stuff. It can be hard to find exactly what you want in a junk yard sometimes even if your looking for parts to a common car.
Check for collision damage rear is good and try to find the mileage if its digital by a sticker or documents
I look for vehicles that are wrecked on the opposite end of the vehicle for the part(s) I'm looking for. If I need a headlight or some thing from the front end, I look for vehicles with damage to the rear. Tail light or trunk, I look for front end damaged vehicles.
My car porn don't know why i love going to junk salvage yards it's just awesome and taking all the bulbs I can pocket to make my 2 dollar fare to go in worthwhile .
Hahaha i use to take my 16yo sis there before she joined the army, dont forget about the tools left behind!
good tip on looking for a collision- definitely rear collisions only though lol
U Pull It yards are great but probably not where I'd go for an engine or automatic transmission. If you're going to install it yourself then the lower price may be worth the risk. However, if you're going to pay someone else to install it then I'd try to find a used one from a wrecking yard that checks the engines and transmissions, and then removes them, before putting the rest of the vehicle out to pasture. I know as I used to do this when I was in college. We did everything we could with the vehicle to get them to run enough to warm up, get a compression check on them, run them through their gears, and then drown them out with oil for storage.
Did not know that Pull-A-Part offers a 30-day warranty -- that's pretty cool right there. Not that it'll cover labor-costs, I'm sure, but still, that's at least something that'll help.
Don't know about Pull-A-Part, but Pick-N-Pull offers an extended 1 year warranty on major parts for 30% of the part cost.
Thank you this video help me a lot with my grand am gt my 3.4 lt blew up and I went and got a 3.8 from a gtp and did a swap with my friend
You're like a kid in a candy shop at that place. Pulling the plugs is a great way to diagnose an engine if you know what to look for, it's like telling the car to turn its head and cough.
I had a blast shooting these videos. I love salvage yards.
+EricTheCarGuy you can learn a lot from these places, beats learning the hard way on your own "pride and joy...!"
EricTheCarGuy Nothing beats finding what you need at the salvage yard. It combines the joy of recycling, coupons and Christmas all in one dirty parking lot! :D
Well said!
Great Vid Eric, yeah salvage yards can have great finds. Theyre definitely fun going to, like goin to a swap meet. Never know what youll find
Thanks for making me miss my manual neon even more....
Those are some good tips. Nowadays though, I won't buy a salvage yard engine unless I can hear it run. Yes, many of them have a warranty, but do I really want to do an engine swap twice? It happened to me before, and to say I was angry was an understatement---tools flew across the garage that day.
3:34 Literally all Chrysler products.
I mean neglect is not linked to any particular manufacturer. As a car owner, YOU have to keep up with your vehicle. Your car is usually the 2nd biggest investment you have, why neglect it or better yet not know what to look for when looking for parts? You don't take care ANY car it will fail when you least expect it. And all cars "Even Chrysler's" if taken care of properly give warning signs of when things are failing.
I can tell you've never been to a junk yard. LKQ yards are organized typically by manufacturer. Chris was standing there in the Chrysler section.
Buy a borescope! I bought a 22re from a 4runner that looked like crap, but I put my borescope in it the engine still had crosshatched in the bore. Turns out the previous owner had then engine rebuilt and then it eventually got sent to the junk yard..
Thanks for the tips! Heading to P.A.P. here in a few for heads.
(You should do a video on heads:what damage to look for)
Really cool video Eric. Very informative. I looove going to junk yards! 👍🏽
You may have said this...bring a wheel barrow! At least that was my experience when I went to our pick your parts place. Just about every guy there was wheeling one. Those places are great to pick up the things that even haven't broken, yet, like various plastic covers under the hood.
Pull-a-Part provides wheel barrows free of charge. :)
Just went to my local pick pull and scored some sweet leather buckets out of a Buick Grand sport. Someone had already nabbed the supercharger but still full price was only $119 all in for the seats. 👍🏼 Kinda sucks that I could have had them for half that price a few days before at the member toolbox price or whatever it’s called.
Always take a look 👀 at the brake and clutch pedal if it’s got one. Some late model stuff won’t show mileage without a hot battery and that’s not gonna happen lol
good tip look for rust around the collision to Peterman how long its been since the accident and possibly how long its been in yard
look for red transmission oil, if its brown then leave it.
means it hasnt been looked after.
I once got a used van. The transmission fluid was black and smelled horrid. It still lasted about two years before I sold it lol. But yeah, black or brown fluid in a transmission is not a good sign. Something is wrong or it has never been changed meaning something will be wrong.
Heat is the killer of transmissions. Black fluid means its been heated far past design. It also means clutch material is floating around there and remember, your transmission is more than just clutch packs. There's Many pistons and planetary gears in there also that if not properly lubricated will fail.
Hey folks, do you expect an engine purchased from an auto-recycler (i.e. auto-wrecker) to be fully functional? As in, I buy the engine, hand it over the mechanic, they should be able to mount the thing up, add oil and (assuming the spark plugs and coils are good) the engine should fire up? My mechanic did a leak-down test on the first engine I picked up - one cylinder did not hold any pressure on the intake side. The water pump pulley was also dented and did not turn smoothly. I took the engine back to the wrecker, and the manager gave me another engine (not without getting an earful from him). 2nd engine was even worse than the first - none of the cylinders passed the leak-down test. This was despite the exterior of the engine looking immaculate, and at least this time the water pulley was undamaged and spun freely. The auto-wrecker manager was super irate when I came back with the 2nd engine, he didn't even want to look at or listen to me. Am I doing anything wrong? Do I need a new mechanic? For what it's worth.... I consider myself to be fairly easy-going and level-headed. The auto-wrecker manager has been anything but an absolute PITA.
I'm Glad your channel has grown to a point where you can do fun promotional videos like these! Especially the "What not to do" it was very funny!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment.
I would look for a car that has side or back end colision damage. Any damage to the roof indicating a rollover would be a no-go as you have no idea how long the engine ran upside down.
depending on the vehicle quite a few can't run when flipped due to safety features. Plus fuel pump pulls from the bottom of the tank. ... so most stall.
out in areas with snow it happens usually when someone rolls after hitting a snowbank or similar situation, inertia switch doesn't trip (slow speed/low impact). The engine runs just long enough to starve the bearings of oil or may even hydroloc on its own oil.
+Txdartaholic true... I can see that. Great point
they offer a 7 month warranty at pic-a-part for 20% the cost of the part. that saved me because my trans went bad after afew weeks of being in
Unless the engine/transmission you need is rare or really expensive to get from a junkyard that pulls them for you I wouldn't recommend to get one from a self serve junkyard, It's not really worth the headache, Either spend i little bit more (when applicable) and get one from a normal junkyard or buy a parts vehicle
30 days engine offer is good..not bad
A big thing I look for is how the car was maintained, look at the car over all, if there's duct tape holding things on avoid it, check the breaks, just look it over. If it looks like it was a kids car avoid it because 9/10 times it was beat and not maintained very well
Good point. Thanks for your input.
Also when you rotate the engine by hand check to make sure the valves are moving, inspect the timing belt. Look for signs of overheating, if the underside of the hood looks like orange crush soda move on.
If the car is late model and is undamaged chances are it's the engine or transmission (90% of the chryslers)
Personally I compare prices sometimes I can get a part from a full service yard, online or new aftermarket for less than a salvage yard.
Super informative videos. I like these kinda Scotty Kilmer quick tip vids.
"If you see standing water in cylinder head walls, move on...". Hahahah, excellent delivery!
I love your Salvage yard videos Eric. ;)
another thing to look for is water in the dipstick tube that will rust any steel parts
Thanks Brother.
Coffee scum on the inside of the oil cap would make me run lol :-D
I like that. I might borrow it in a future video.
+EricTheCarGuy on my old car, i used to get some milky foam under the cap, was that moisture coming from the cooling system? weird thing was that the oil itself wasnt milky at all.
That's normal for vehicles that don't get driven often. It's because of condensation inside the engine. Take it for a long drive now and again to help get rid of it.
+EricTheCarGuy Cheers Eric, sadly dont own the car anymore but it always intrigued me. Thanks for clearing it up! All the best.
Eric how about doing a tutorial on oil filters, which ones do you run in your car? Maybe cut away on certain brands
That's been done.
I made the mistake of buying new spark plug wires at autozone costed me 40$ when i could have gotten some decent ones at the junkyard for cheaper
If your engine doesn't have a head(s), I might would avoid that one. another tip to find a transmission is, if the engine is blown the trans is still okay 99% of the time
A way for me to determine if I’m going to buy the transmission or not is by inspecting the engine if the engine shows problems like overheating bad block that’s the transmission I’m going to buy And it does not take that long to figure that out ps Ford ranger 03
So badly maintained engine tends to equate to lower risk of crappy transmission?
remember anything is fixable but good tips
I wish there was a salvage yard of that size in Eastern MA.
People in Eastern MA don't even know how to operate turn signals or how to merge into a freeway (99% of the time they try to merge into a 65mph freeway at around 35mph). However, the worst ones are stupid SUV's that drive way slower than my FF TL in snow. What's the point of having AWD?
You drive faster in bad weather in a awd car/suv but you can't stop any faster
Awesome video
great tips Eric
Eric, you'd be scared of the 'spare' Jeep engine I have for my Cherokee, and terrified by the one that's in it with 300,000 + on the clock.
There is no me without you...if you have any questions feel free to ask or email me! Thanks
Exactly the video I needed to see.
man your having fun at the pull a part
I had a blast making these videos.
Great tips! Thanks
eric you should do a video on how to start an engine and possibly check for compression at the yard (thats if the starter is still there)
none of them have oil so would seize up
+kai wilson you can add enough to cover the crank
I don't think that's really practical but thanks for the suggestion.
+EricTheCarGuy it could save time and money unless you do the work which is time but time is money lol
+omar k I'm not from the US but in the UK they remove all fluids by cutting the lines wouldn't imagine it's worth trying to even get oil fuel and water into test
Good educational video. Thank you.
love the Videos Eric....definitely the car Man
what a great super great information thanks Eric
I wish this video went more in depth, super interesting stuff!
I wanted to keep it short and cover the bullet points. Thanks for your comment.
30 days is not great. There are also stipulations in order to be covered..... like new pan, valve cover or other gasket for example. That's to prove you did your part in preventing a possible good engine or trans from going bad from a leak or something. Most good mechanics like to do basic gaskets anyway, just to get better interior inspection of purchase, & prior to install into vehicle.
30 days isn't really 30 days, after waiting for some new parts to come in, install them, & installing engine. You may get 2 wks or less of actual running time on the engine to know if you have to do it all over again.
+adventureoflinkmk2 yeah you can do that, but there's ALWAYS something else to get. Timing belt or chain, sensors, misc. unexpected crap all the time. It's hard for most ppl to get everything all up front & return what you don't need.
+adventureoflinkmk2 I'm only mentioning because of my own (& ppl I know) experiences, on just about every swap. Just saying, not to prove being right or wrong. ;)
Damn, you're into cars? That's sexy as hell.
+The513Warning Thanks. Anything with an engine... From lawn care equipment to diesel rigs or construction equipment.
Not at these yards - you bring it back, say it's bad and they either give you a credit (for a future purchase) or a replacement (that you pull). The situation you described is common of full-serve (they pull it for you) yards.
Wow Great tips! Keep up the great work.
Can we please get a video a day with these salvage yard vehicles?
Sure, I'll be running them through this Thursday.
Good advice
Eric, how do you feel about buying a rebuilt transmission from EBay? 2004 accord v6. Thank you
Where I live, they scrap the parts and sell you sometimes if there were new!!!
What does the crusty build up on the oil cap indicate exactly... lack of regular oil changes?
also everyone should check Craigslist and kijiji I'd look for crashed cars, I got a whole corolla for 150$ the engine ran Nd I sold the transmission and the car and parts off it, stay away from young kids because they'd probably sit there revving the piss out of it because it's been crashed and "useless to them" so check those places as well
I made my money back on that car I paid 150 for it got my engine and made 250 and got a clutch kit for free basically
+DeadlyVoltsHD made my money back my selling the transmission I didn't need sold the whole interior almost and the my uncle game me 100$ for the car and took it away for free it was t boned so the shell was done
True, but not everyone can have a wrecked car sitting in their driveway waiting to be parted out.
Good Video dude I have a 2000 Buick.....I need a video to help me with overheating. ..I bought thermostat,radiator, heater core,and water pump but still heating up...
Burp the coolant system
I assume engines and transmissions are crazy cheap at a pull yourself yard? If not I think I'd prefer one that the yard had tested prior to pulling it.
not crazy cheap. lol min $300. & up to $800 or more. Depending on engine or trans. Diesels & its parts are more $. Then you are doing the work.... hrs' worth or up to a day's worth. THAT can be costly. That time could be spent earning... you know what I mean? Plus you might find something wrong with it half way through pulling out. LOL
*I meant $200 min*. & the up to $800 is including the diesels
I paid $450 for my Toyota Echo engine, delivered and known at least to run properly.
And I'm in Canada where everything is at least a bit more expensive. I would have thought it would be far cheaper but maybe it's worth it with something newer and more expensive.
I'd hate to spend all that time and find out something is wrong after installing it :O
Depends on the yard but my local YPI places $175-200.00 for any complete engine, $120-150.00 for a trans. OR the full service yard, where the prices vary based on popularity of parts but run about $300 - $900.00 for an engine and $300-$500.00 for a trans. Both offer warranty, YPI is 30 days, the full service is 60 days/3000 miles.
+Scott Verge EXACTLY. Some yards have areas where you can remove them. They'll move them with a forklift & that way no one else comes by disturbing or taking parts you may need, but yeah... not worth my time I say.
first thing should be to check the odometer. if it has an insane amount of mileage on it it's not even worth inspecting
with that said, great video Eric!
@1:13 - this seems to be a Mitsubishi 6G72 Engine
Great job all useful info thumbs up
Would it be feasible to bring along some oil and starter fluids and a jump pack to see if the engine will actually turn over?
No no no! Do not start any engine in a junk yard. They'll ban you for life for risking a fire. If you want to know if the engine is even able to physically turn over, try rotating the harmonic balancer pulley (say, by moving the serpentine belt or with a wrench). Chances are, if that turns over (not start, but just turn), then if it won't start when you test it in the 'patient' car you're donating it to, it's something else. i.e. Fuel, air, spark, failed starter, etc. This is why exchange warranties are mandatory if buying a used engine. It's a pain, but you can try another one if it's the actual engine and not the parts attached to it.
As a side note, batteries and booster packs are forbidden at my local junk yards precisely because someone had that idea.
Here it is finally confirmed
EricTheCarGuy I am buying a use engine with gearbox cause I am converting from automatic to manual but I want to know what to check for on both b4 I buy
What are the chances I could find a dohc honda motor to do a rebuild? Pretty sought after motors so probably slim...
Never really thought about cars that have been in accidents as an indicator of a running driving car prior to the junk yard. Good tip!
1:56 THAT DURANGO GOT THE 5.2?? QUICK. TO PULL-A-PART!
Edit: Or the one at 3:17. Whichever one. I'm not picky.
Good REAL world info.
Pull the trans pan before bothering to pull it. Most of the fluid will be gone, but the sediment will remain.
Also open the cooler lines, they may drain the pan but that radiator still has fluid in it. Also applies to power steering parts as well.
Good call
Good idea. Thanks for the input.
I have a '94 civic 1.5L with a bent connecting rod in the #1 cylinder. I found it in the process of doing a rebuild to replace the rings for a blue smoke problem. It's a cheap car, would getting a used rod from a junkyard engine be okay? Most shops don't sell individual rods only sets.
nice to know someone out there has the same problem i had . I spun a bearing after changin my rod it was due to hydrolock. Now I am trying to purchase a used block
THANK YOU ERIC!
Everyone else on CZcams is some douche who teaches you nothing and just talks about their success
the best way is to do leak down test and compresion test
Sorry completely unrelated but do you plan on doing some videos on diesel cars? I know they are scarce in the US, but here in Western and Central Europe they make up about 30-50%(!) of our cars depending on the country. I think here in Austria they just passed their petrol brothers a year back or so. It would be interesting since the fuel delivery, throttle and other parts are very different.
I have planned that for some time. I just haven't gotten the right vehicle yet.
EricTheCarGuy that's very cool to hear. keep up the great content I love it!
Were you getting sunburnt out there? That white gravel would roast you on a hot day if you didn't cover up. How would you remove an engine in a yard like that?
Depends on the yard but many will send a loader out if you get it all unbolted and ready to pull.
I got sunburned plenty during this shoot. As for the engine, I hope to cover that in a video at some point.
eric i know you were a big fan of the old top gear... have you seen the new one it's 2 episodes in . your thoughts? frankly us brits hate it!
Two episodes in and I actually really like Matt LeBlanc (before the first show I was ready to hate him so I really was surprised)
Chris Evans (who I used to like on TGI Friday) is terrible! Maybe we could get the BBC to replace him with Eric?
If they offered would you accept the new job? I know they are not offering Amazon money but still...
Haven't seen it yet. I cut the cord 2 years ago.
The salvage yard wants my old engine (core) but what if pull the heads out, do i still het the core trade price? I told them my motor is seized up, they still want it. So i was going to pull the heads and sell them to a friend that needs them. Does anyone have the answer? Thanks for your time.
hey man im goin to look at a engine at a place but its already pulled out nd its doesn't come w accessories wats yu input in that?
Eric, is it feasible to have a mobile kits for the leak down test ?
Not really.