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8 years working as a chef. Working with Michelin star Japanese chefs, working with well respected chefs. No one. Literally no one could explain to me how to sharpen single bevel knife. Yet after watching your video and doing one session of sharpening my knifes are mirror finished at shapton 16k. And sharper more than ever.
yea...your "michelin" chefs or your highest level haute cuisine head chefs/CDC/exec chefs usually dont know the proper science and techniques behind sharpening a knife. simple because 1) they assume its below their paygrade to go and figure out how to do it properly. 2) their ego makes them think they know how to do it. 3) there's always someone doing it for them anyways 4) they just simple "dont have the time". back in the days of course they are too busy perfecting their craft: cooking, obviously. so they rather let a professional or their sous/cdp do it for them so they can spend their time on "more important things" like figuring out how to pair the weirdest combinations of food. but nowadays id say most of them are just fucking lazy to go and learn. ive worked in an italian michelin starred restaurant for about 2 years plus and ive never seen my head chef sharpen his knife. all he does is pick up a fucking metal honing rod to run his few hundred dollars japanese knife along the edge and then struggle to slice a medium rare a5 wagyu.
Thanks Ryky, this video made a lot of sense and now I'm able to sharpen my Yanagiba's with more confidence. I even took my knife to a professional sharpener from Japan and he said I still need to practice to make perfect but doing fine.
Brilliant video Ryky! I followed your simple instructions, and my yanagiba has never been sharper. Thanks for going into some of the theory behind your techniques. This could be the best yanagiba sharpening video on the Web!!!
I just gotta say, I LOVE your channel. Im an Apprentice Chef, and just got into knife ownership/sharpening recently and any irl instruction I've gotten has pretty much been. "Just do what I do" whereas your instruction is repetition and telling not just how but why, and what to look for. The perfect teacher in this regard. Thank you very much!!
This is the first video I have seen where you sharpen the back first! This is the best video on the subject I have seen...clear concise...the triple split screen was well thought out...thkx!
Completely OCD way to sharpen the knives, but I have to say, this is much better than anything I've ever done. Great job. I'll give it a try on the three stones I have. Where and when would you use the traditional long steel which I use with my Solingen German Chef's knives? Nice to see a craftsman at work. Keep the videos coming.
Got a brand knew Kai Yanagiba knife (bought it as "give me something nice so that I have free shipping"), did not really know much about it, learnt Japanese start new blades by sharpening, now I know how. Thank you!
Been watching your channel for a while. I'll be honest, I'll never get used to you and your trusty brick. It's always hard to watch. But you always restore the edge perfectly. It's a necessary evil for educational purposes. 😂
@@Burrfection lol god bless you for the sacrifices you've had to make and will continue to make for the betterment of humankind. Jokes aside, you did help me learn how to sharpen the yanagiba my dad gave me 10 years ago, with confidence. I've been way too afraid because of how important this knife is to me. But I felt it was on me to sharpen it. But even if it's just knife sharpening videos, and to most people it is just that to them. But your vidd made a serious difference in my life. And I want you to know I genuinely appreciate it. My yanagiba knife means a lot to me. Cooking means a lot to me. My father was a chef and taught me everything from a young age. Cooking and being in the kitchen, brought my father and me together. It repaired a very broken relationship. The knife was dull when he gave it to me. Ten years later, and now it is restored and will be used. When I hold it in my hand, I can feel my father's hand as well. Sure I finally got off my ass and did it. But it is very much so thanks to you. Love, peace, and chicken grease!
Thanks for this I commented on one of your other videos where you talk about not needing to flatten your stones. As a wood worker we flatten every sharpening because chisels and plane irons. But I’m just starting to get into knife sharpening and I think this would be a great knife style for to try first because it’s so similar to chisel sharpening! Even yo to micro bevel
It has been years since I've made a comment on youtube, but I must say I love your style and I'm learning a lot. Keep doing it your way I do hope however to see more "collection" videos as in here is the results from the last month. Not because I get bored of these videos but It's nice not to remember 20videos worth of good information.
Burrfection collection as in: "here are 10 different types of knives, I would sharpen them like this on this and here is why..." I find your videos very informative, but I find it difficult to remember all the good tips and in which video I saw whatever I forgot. Also videos like: japanese vs europa vs american whetstones could be fun the same with knives.
I try to pick up at least one knife made by a respected maker every year in Japan. I remember one visit to Masamoto in Tsukiji market where the guy sharpening my knife had a bandage on every finger ;) You're the first knife sharpener I've ever seen without any.
love the 3 camera view. I have a yanigiba and a deba for a lefty. I had a hard time sharpening them. now I know! looks like I've sharpened them the wrong way, hopefully I can bring them back to life as i was never satisfied with how i sharpened them. very helpful video.
really enjoyed seeing the snow white and yanagi, would love to quickly have seen the finish it leaves on the two steels, also +1 on the third angle, it really proved your point on how hard it can be to keep the knife flat on the back
Show us your ring in a microscope. Many times you wipe the sharpening stone and we could hear the metal ring getting sharpened as well. It's interesting to see the scratches on it. This is a request.
You should not grind that much on the Urasuki (flat side). You should only have to focused on the Shinogi. For 1-2 time sharpening like you did will be fine.. but in years, you will definitely flatten the concave on the Urasuki.. Usually the ratio will be 10:1 or 20:1, on the Shinogi:Urasuki sharpening time
Exactly. I have many years experience in sharpening knives and I started from the beginning on the Shinogi, until the burr appears all along the Urasuki. When this happens I just remove the burr (just some very slight strokes) and I am done with this stone. Actually I don't use waterstones anymore, diamond stones are my preferred tools. You don't need water, nor have to flatten the stone and you are much faster. Disadvantage is, that you have to be careful handeling the blade, if not you get very ugly scratches. What traditional japanese knife users never do is the use of leather straps to finish it with an unbelievable sharpness. But I do 😇 I have 4 of them. One with a 'coarse' silicon carbide topping, next is 6 u diamond paste, followed by 3 u and 1 u, finished by the last leather soaked with leather balm. The results are mirror, more than razor sharp blades. I love those cutting edges, which have the pleasant side effect that no family member dares to use my knives
It was rocking a little as well. You can see the front end of the knife lifting off of the stone at times. Also what’s the difference between angling the knife diagonally to the stone as he says not to do at the start and moving the knife in a diagonal motion as he’s doing when he moves along the blade? They both put scratches diagonally along the blade.
@@murph8411 so in the case of the ura he says it wares the knife unevenly, not an issue in my experience, ive also seen almost every master sharpener on youtube sharpen the ura at whatever position they want, as ling as the blade is flat on a flat stone, the bevel doesn't actually matter what position you sharpen at
@@tylermelton1746 In my experience, keeping the blade at right angles while working on the uraoshi is pretty common advice from most skilled Japanese sharpeners (I have seen several native Japanese sharpening experts say the same). I think Ryky's reasoning for why this is is close but not quite right, though. IMHO, the reason for keeping the blade perpendicular to the stone is because otherwise, it is very easy to inadvertently end up sharpening the front edge more or less than the back edge when you get to either the heel or the tip (especially with the handle in the way), which can effectively cause a "twisting" of the blade over time, making it hard to actually sharpen that part properly and can make the knife not cut straight (depending on how severe it becomes). Also, if you spend substantially more time on certain parts than others, you could end up with uneven wear between the corresponding edge/spine parts of the uraoshi (also resulting in "twisting") as well, if it is done at an angle. If people are very careful to avoid those issues, it's probably not a problem, but keeping it perpendicular is, in general, an easy way to not have to worry about these things as much in the first place.. This is also why going diagonally is generally not a problem on the front side (and most folks will say it's fine), because the basic shape/straightness and cutting line of the blade is determined by the uraoshi on the back, not any of the material on the front, so if the front wears unevenly it doesn't affect the long-term performance of the blade that much, but screwing up the back definitely can (and is often much harder to fix as well). (And regarding the original comment by @Ashadi Budi, I think what's being missed here is that Ryky says a few times that he is not putting any pressure when working on the uraoshi, so while it seems like he is spending a lot of time on it, he is really just honing it, not trying to grind it down at all, unlike when he spends time on the front side and does use pressure. I have seen others who use equal pressure and thus spend less time on the uraoshi to compensate, so it's just a question of whether you're varying the pressure or the time to get the same effect. The only thing you don't want to do is use *both* pressure and spend a long time on the uraoshi, though, which certainly will wear it down unnecessarily fast.)
Hello Ricky...thank you so much for this multi view video...I now understand so much!!! I got the Kamikoto knife set for Christmas LAST year, here it’s almost Christmas again and only got to use them a few times. Because it is recommended to purchase their whetstone as well, however I have had no luck finding it. After watching so many videos on whetstone sharpening yours is by far the best. I have a 1000 and 6000 and because it’s 2020, my knives are for home use now :( and been tucked away for so many months. I feel some what comfortable to sharpen and use my knives again. (Without ruining them) Do you have a video on the Kamikoto knives too? If not do you recommend using the same techniques you use in THIS video? Thanks again!
I see what you mean concerning tilting the knife by the handle when sharpening the flat side. You did it on 95% of the strokes on that side! I'm surprised the first 3 inches of the blade from the tip would cut warm butter.
I was considering buying Yanagiba as my first Japanese knife, but I think it would not be a great start for a beginner whetstone sharpener, especially because of the concave nature of blade :D Probably I'll start with Gyuto.
I would like to share my journey with you if I may, just one school of thought. I was privileged to learn from great Chef-mentors during my time as a young 15-years old Commis Chef in Manhattan. One of my most influential mentors, Tony Bourdain, instructed me very early on, to learn how to properly cut (Japanese styles), by first using a SBK (single-bevel knife), AND how to sharpen on Wheatstone’s using my SBK. This was the case because learning how to cut properly with a SBK will teach you proper knife technique and handling that will absolutely carry over into the DBK-world, ultimately making you an overall better knife handler with BOTH SBK’s & SBK’s. Also, the SBK being easier to sharpen than a DBK on wheatstones, was also an excellent means to learn how to sharpen both SBK’s and eventually DBK’s. So I say this to you, though my first knife was a 180mm Masamoto KS Usuba-Kamagata, you could go for either the Kamagata or the Hishigata styles of Usuba, or even more versatile of a suggestion perhaps, would be a single-bevel Santoku. Ya Avis a Re AMAZING knives, however they being long & think, really can only easily be used for slicing in a long, single motion. So unless you are only going to be slicing Sushi/Sashimi/meats, you would only be learning 1 style of cutting, the slice, whereas the other SBK blade choices would allow from you to learn many more styles of cuts (push-pull, push, slice, dice, rock). I hope this helps, and I wish you all the best of success in your culinary career. ~S
I own the same knife. First time I sharpened it, I noticed that the sharpening pattern on the shinogi line isn't regular, and some section got scratched more than others, maybe due to poor manifacture. Is it possible? Of course, it's a 100 euros knife, it can't be so accurate than knives that costs 3 times more. However, I decided to remove all the sanded surface on the shinogi line using a coarse stone, than I re-sharpened and re-polished all the knife and now it looks fine and cuts very well.
I bought a tojiro shirogami yanagiba too. Removed the sandpaper like part just using secondary bevel of the knife, putting it flat the stone. The problem is I'm still trying to make stone contact with the edge when sharpening the bevel side. Yesterday I gave up after several hours and today I will continue. Only a small line on the edge is remaining to be contacted, I'm seeing it using sharpie/marker. Using coarse stones. Once I get the burr I will jump to 1k 3k 8k. I regret buying this knife because when you sharpen the bevel side it removes the sandy finish in the first sharpening, and it has factory sharpened not like a traditional yanagiba. I will fix mine but it is almost like I'm working on manufacturing of it due to improper sharpening it comes with. Unless you tilt the bevel up and misuse a yanagiba which I won't do.
Wouldn't using the diamond stone to flatten the 1K like that not make it totally flat since you didn't use the entire surface of the diamond as a reference?
sorry friend, but this is not how you sharpen a Yangiba. In Japan, we do not start from the flat side. the falt side is being sharpened only at the very end. The reason for this is, the two thin stripes you have shown on the flat side, are thin and once those are gone, you can through away the knife, so only one to three passes, in the end, on a high grit polishing stone.
Some schools of thought advise sharpening 90/10 on the bevelled/flat side, whereas you are sharpening it 50/50. Do you know the pros and cons of each and why did you choose 50/50?
I've since thought about this some more. Sharpening 50/50 bevelled/flat side as you have done is actually incorrect. The flat side is actually concave to assist with release of the sliced food. By sharpening the flat side as much as you have, you are removing the concave section and slowly ruining your knife. 90/10 bevelled/flat (or the minimal amount required to remove the burr on the flat side) is the better technique.
Generally you only sharpen the back side with your finest stone to remove the bur. You do it 50/50 on that one stone only. You can do a few light strokes on the finer stones leading up the finest stone too.
I actualy sharpen the bevel edge first and only finish off the burr on the concave side to minimize the wear, as its my work knife, and keep the cutting edge in the same position for consistency
If you are servicing a good blade, little work need be done on the concave side. In this case, he destroyed the edge on a brick, including severe breakdown of the flat edge of the concave side... he had to restore the functional shape to the entire plane of the back side edges thanks to destruction of the edge that would rarely happen in real life.
Great vid! Any chance you or someone here can explain the differences in stones? I have one stone with a double side. Not sure which side to use and after watching this, do I need multiple stones to sharpen my yanagiba?
I'm not arguing because I am no authority, but it seems like a lot of people say to apply pressure into the blade. I did see at least one test that "confirmed " push pressure results in a sharper blade in the end. Though the grain didn't look as good before polish. Crescent, pull, push, push pull...they all seem to work for me, but I like your theory about the blade digging in.
Probably you are the only one on youtube that explains everything in details :) I have one question for you, I started sharping my yanagiba and I ended up with some scratches on the front blade from bad angle use, I'm new so mistakes are a must, is there a way I can remove the scratches ? Thanks
hey Andrea. thanks for writing and the encouraging comment. IF the scratches are above the shinogi line, you'll have tougher time removing the scratches. it'll take a lot of time, but you can use 0000# steel wool, and polish the entire surface above the shinogi line. (i know,,,,, it's a pain). the reason is, you have to blend the surface so the newly removed scratches will not look too different from rest of the knife.
when i sharpen my cheap ass kitchen knife i always do it Japanese style. I managed to put such a ridiculously sharp edge on it that when cutting anything i let the blades weight do the cutting :)
Great video! One question, once you got a burr on both sides on the 1000 grit, why did you sharpen both sides a few more times? In my understanding, this is pointless and I immediately move to the next grit. Is there something different about single bevel knives that require this? Thanks!
you can stop if you want to. i normally do that and develop a much small burr. sometimes the large burrs are harder to remove, so i create finer burrs when i go back and forth. nothing wrong with your logic
I'm a cook and learning much from of sharpening knife on stones... I just ordered a 800 grit king stone... we have 3 tramontina knives 8" 2 of them another 6" with the air pockets... really like watching u... I'm still wondering isn't a burr a good thing? Like making the burr is making the blade sharper right?
Light pressure and not rushing to see results is the key to not scratch the jigane and higane . Slow and steady wins the race right ? Bought my first high quality yanagiba and i do not want to ruin its look . That is why I am asking Thanks Burrdude
nice one mate. i do have a problem sharpening though. i have a soba knife so yeah same techinque but no its a different knife.. could u pls make a tutorial on soba knifes?? cheers
You NEED to let people know that these knives have a hollow on the back and that this is BY DESIGN and that sharpening the back will result in a polish around the edges of the knife, all the way around and that the hollow is a feature, not a defect to be ground out. hi, I just bought a yanagiba from this funny guy in hong kong called burrfection... ever heard of him? Anyway, I looked to your channel to learn how to sharpen this knife, been a sub for quite a while. As a woodworker with many japanese tools (planes, chisels, saws, hammers) I am VERY familiar with hollow ground japanese blades and japanese steels. I have recently started to collect Japanese knives as I am also a cook and I have a knife fetish, oops i mean passion! I also started shaving with straight razors and bought 6 vintage blades and learned how to sharpen those. As such, I think you didn't really highlight the flat back of this type of knife very well. You mentioned it vaguely as a "polish" going all the way around the knife, and then said there was a "concave finish". You then trampled all over that to caution the user about the angle of attack the blade makes with the stone. Very confusing, and not very clear. Plus you really should have showed a clear view of the hollow. Maybe talk about why its there? I know the answer to that since i work with Japanese chisels and plane blades, but your subs should be informed too. I can see that based on how you sharpened it and the knife i just got, that there is a distinct hollow on the back. the knife I just bought has NEVER been sharpened other than the factory grind, and the hollow is not visible except with a straight edge, there is no polish going around the edge of the knife to highlight the hollow.. It's a Mizuno Tanrenjo / Minamoto Akitada DX Yanagiba (a really beautiful knife I might add). once I sharpen it, the hollow will jump out. I fear that people not familiar with this type of grind will be puzzled and may ruin their knife trying to "fix" it. The ONLY western blades I know of with hollows, are straight razors, and they have a DOUBLE BEVEL HOLLOW. They are even more fun to sharpen than a knife. And yes... you are REALLY bad at holding the flat back flat against the stone.!!!
Thanks for the vid.all the details that you put into it! Thumbs up! I only have one question... why do you want to put a bevel in your edge? Thanks for the answer in advance!
Help! ......I have a carbon steel Yanagi. When I lay it front face down on the stone it feels like I am not sharpening the edge bevel ...the edge bevel is about 1mm wide and maybe 1 or 2 degree off of the main bevel..pushing the knife down on the stone it still feels like the knife is still just riding on the main bevel between the shinogi line and the edge bevel. If I tilt the knife up higher I don't feel like I am maintaining a constant angle...before I destroy the edge or use a rough stone to take the edge bevel out all together - Bad idea) I need some advice....help!
get a 400 grit stone and grind it out. It may take up to a half hour or more to get it flat again (less depending on the damage). What it sounds like is someone already sharpened it and thought it had too shallow of a bevel, or their hand had a mild wobble that made it a convex. Have you sharpened the knife before? Alternatively you can send it to a professional sharpener or buy a new knife.
It also sounds like you have a secondary bevel. 1mm is a good deal of a bevel. The only other option is to blend it into the primary bevel making a convex, but i don't recommend that unless it's a bushcraft knife. I would take the kick to the balls and use a 400 or 600 grit stone to take it back down. You will loose a good bit of steel, but it's really the only way.
MB: this knife was straight out of the box. I don't expect a new knife to be "extremely" sharp but relatively so...shave the hair on my arm would be a good starting point. Maybe its a good knife to advance my sharpening skills and problem-solving abilities...thanks for the reply...cheers!
wait hold up... it was out of box with that large of an issue? Where did you buy it from? I would say though if you have a 400 or 600 grit stone that would be a great knife to learn to sharpen with. Good luck!
It's doesn't seem like an issue or defect. There are 2 possibilities for your situation. 1. Knife maker decided to put on a compound bevel (usually under the lamination line), which is a common practice for Japanese knives, ESPECIALLY the deba for durability. A lot of people have the misconception that Japanese knives should always be ground straight down from the shinogi line, when that isn't the case. Sometimes a bevel is also put on the ura (concave) side of the knife. 2. You don't have correct finger placement/pressure, and rely too much on the shinogi line when sharpening.
Hi Ricky, Thanks this is the first time how you sharpen the sashimi knife I did it a wrong way and ruined my knife. Rusty razor medium rusty to clean the stone. Will you sell some of your used knifes. Where did you buy the stone holder to hold the sharping stone and a metal to smooth the stone. Where did you buy the white stone. What do you call the hold set.
Man I dig the vids a lot man, thanks!! You have a calm way about you - you’re a good educator my man! Very cool. Also I did notice from your camera angles, that when you were sharpening the flat side perpendicular to stone, you barely ever got the tip. You can see it lifting off. Just wondering if you meant to do that. Also, do you ever use higher grits, like 12k or higher for sushi knives? Or jnats or vermio hones?
Hi real nice video, I have yanagi myself but having issue with the front tip, seems it doesn’t sharpen at the same degree with the rest of the knife maybe you can give me a tip on that. Also few videos I watched recommended that I raise the front tip little higher while just sharpening the tip but I’m afraid that would ruin the natural shape of the knife. Thanks in advance.
Hello I got a DMT coarse diamond stone on amazon.. do you think this is good for flattening? I will be sharpening chisels. thank you for this content ❤
So I'm pretty confused. Lol. Sorry. It looks like there are actually two bevels on the right side of the knife. It looks like you're sharpening the Shinogi line only. But then you have a second bevel on top of that one that looks more reflective. I don't get it. Are you supposed to just run the knife on the Whetstone on the Shinogi line only and then you'll simply have one bevel? I'm lost.
I just found your you tube channel and I thinks it's awesome ..What wet stone would you recommend I start with? Something economical,I home cook quite often and have an assortment of knives.I'd like to start this as a hoppy.I'm not happy at all with the old school electrical knife sharpeners.Thank you
Hey man, what exactly do you mean when you say “feel for the burr”, also with a single bevel yinogiba would you sharpen the flat side of the other side more, thanks for this video with the multiple camera angles was very informative.
I appreciate your wealth of knowledge and the time you spend sharing it. I had a question regarding whetstone progression. Do you always just use two stones; for example the chosera 800 then a finishing stone like the Snow White? Do you ever do 800 then 3000 to 5000 then finish on 8000? I’m a recent enthusiast and am trying to develop a consistent progression and don’t know how many progressions are necessary to achieve a consistent sharp mirror finish edge. Thank you!
Hi, I like your video, it is very nicely done. I make sharpening videos as well so I know it isn't as easy as you make it look. Well done my sharpener friend, much respect.
Ryky, I see that your not a flattener, that's interesting. I think is important to explore things like that, we always hear people on forums telling us that we should do this and do that but often there is no explanation. For years I kept hearing people telling me not to bother sharpening European knives higher than 1,000 grit, I saw it written on websites but there was no explanation as to why. So I think some folks just repeat what is heard but I spent about 3 years trying to figure out why I should stop a 1k and I did find the reason eventually. I will check out your review of Cerax stones, I haven't used them yet.
Really enjoy the videos. I am new to sharpening with wet stones. All my knives are from Japan and last time I was there I bought the sharpening gear. I have the same stone holder but where did you get the bar that holds that over the water? Thanks John
It seems like it would be significantly easier to sharpen this type of knife because you can lay it flat on the stone (and not fret about angle). Is that the case?
Hi, would you go about sharpening a single bevel Honesuki the same way? The spine of the blade and the edge are not parallel at all so I was wondering if you’d put an angle on the flat side
Question: Why are you starting the sharpening from the flat side first? Yes I know you always start on the flat side, but why? Keep up the good work, I am a DHRTF (Die Hard Ricky Tan Fan) XD
No. Just allow someone to use one of your knives and it falls down on a stone floor and the leading edge breaks out. That really breaks your heart and blood pressure increases rapidly...
Burrfection yes my friend I am checking amazon to see what knive I will buy but I like a lot the Japanese Knives that’s why I am in your Chanel because I love all about Japanese Knives👍
Hola, me gustó mucho Cómo explicaste todo. Soy nuevo y por favor me gustaría saber qué cuchillos comprar para Sushi que no sean tan caros y también cuáles sharpeners? Por favor y Muchas gracias.
Hi Ryky. I ordered two atomas from you and did what you did at 2:36. Pretty funny to see that you did that too! I got s 150# and a 400# and slapped them together. I was curious. I've sharpened a total of roughly 20 knives using those atomas since ordering. I'd say half of them were restorations, I've use them on some tools as well. One of them is starting to get some discoloration (yellow). I can tell they are getting a little duller. Do you have a rough estimate on when to swap out the tops with new ones? Thanks for all you do. CZ
thank you for this tut, just got my first "decent" yanagi and i followed your instructions, question on the microbevel thought, the next time i need to resharpen, do i sharpen the knife flat on the shinogi line again with no problems?
Bit late, but as with chisels, you need only sharpen the microbevel, but make sure not to let it grow too much (when it begins to become more of a secondary bevel than a microbevel, thin it).
Not gonna lie.... I totally cringed at him dulling the blade on the teusty brick. But when he said "to people new to my channel" I figured he did it often, then said he did it often. Now rewatching that bit, I am a lot more desensitized. I am happy he does that, to truly help one learn how to appropriately use a wetstone. Definitely helped me figure out how to sharpen my kotobuki shashimi knife.
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8 years working as a chef. Working with Michelin star Japanese chefs, working with well respected chefs. No one. Literally no one could explain to me how to sharpen single bevel knife. Yet after watching your video and doing one session of sharpening my knifes are mirror finished at shapton 16k. And sharper more than ever.
yea...your "michelin" chefs or your highest level haute cuisine head chefs/CDC/exec chefs usually dont know the proper science and techniques behind sharpening a knife. simple because 1) they assume its below their paygrade to go and figure out how to do it properly. 2) their ego makes them think they know how to do it. 3) there's always someone doing it for them anyways 4) they just simple "dont have the time". back in the days of course they are too busy perfecting their craft: cooking, obviously. so they rather let a professional or their sous/cdp do it for them so they can spend their time on "more important things" like figuring out how to pair the weirdest combinations of food. but nowadays id say most of them are just fucking lazy to go and learn. ive worked in an italian michelin starred restaurant for about 2 years plus and ive never seen my head chef sharpen his knife. all he does is pick up a fucking metal honing rod to run his few hundred dollars japanese knife along the edge and then struggle to slice a medium rare a5 wagyu.
Kinda nuts that restaurants with such accolades didn't have chefs well versed in sharpening single bevel knives.
😮
Thanks Ryky, this video made a lot of sense and now I'm able to sharpen my Yanagiba's with more confidence. I even took my knife to a professional sharpener from Japan and he said I still need to practice to make perfect but doing fine.
nicely done! all you.
Brilliant video Ryky! I followed your simple instructions, and my yanagiba has never been sharper. Thanks for going into some of the theory behind your techniques. This could be the best yanagiba sharpening video on the Web!!!
right on. appreciate the comment. stay in touch.
I just gotta say, I LOVE your channel. Im an Apprentice Chef, and just got into knife ownership/sharpening recently and any irl instruction I've gotten has pretty much been. "Just do what I do" whereas your instruction is repetition and telling not just how but why, and what to look for. The perfect teacher in this regard.
Thank you very much!!
I really like the Video because its without Cuts or Make it faster or shorten the Video. Its nice to see the real Time Progress.
This is the first video I have seen where you sharpen the back first! This is the best video on the subject I have seen...clear concise...the triple split screen was well thought out...thkx!
right on. thanks for the comment. drop me a line anytime, and stay in touch.
Completely OCD way to sharpen the knives, but I have to say, this is much better than anything I've ever done. Great job. I'll give it a try on the three stones I have.
Where and when would you use the traditional long steel which I use with my Solingen German Chef's knives? Nice to see a craftsman at work. Keep the videos coming.
Got a brand knew Kai Yanagiba knife (bought it as "give me something nice so that I have free shipping"), did not really know much about it, learnt Japanese start new blades by sharpening, now I know how. Thank you!
Been watching your channel for a while. I'll be honest, I'll never get used to you and your trusty brick. It's always hard to watch.
But you always restore the edge perfectly. It's a necessary evil for educational purposes. 😂
Somebody has to do it
@@Burrfection lol god bless you for the sacrifices you've had to make and will continue to make for the betterment of humankind.
Jokes aside, you did help me learn how to sharpen the yanagiba my dad gave me 10 years ago, with confidence. I've been way too afraid because of how important this knife is to me. But I felt it was on me to sharpen it.
But even if it's just knife sharpening videos, and to most people it is just that to them. But your vidd made a serious difference in my life. And I want you to know I genuinely appreciate it.
My yanagiba knife means a lot to me. Cooking means a lot to me. My father was a chef and taught me everything from a young age. Cooking and being in the kitchen, brought my father and me together.
It repaired a very broken relationship. The knife was dull when he gave it to me. Ten years later, and now it is restored and will be used. When I hold it in my hand, I can feel my father's hand as well.
Sure I finally got off my ass and did it. But it is very much so thanks to you.
Love, peace, and chicken grease!
Thanks so much for the split screen and stone’s-eye-view!!! I learned a lot.
Thanks for this I commented on one of your other videos where you talk about not needing to flatten your stones. As a wood worker we flatten every sharpening because chisels and plane irons. But I’m just starting to get into knife sharpening and I think this would be a great knife style for to try first because it’s so similar to chisel sharpening! Even yo to micro bevel
It has been years since I've made a comment on youtube, but I must say I love your style and I'm learning a lot. Keep doing it your way I do hope however to see more "collection" videos as in here is the results from the last month. Not because I get bored of these videos but It's nice not to remember 20videos worth of good information.
collection, as in , what i currently have in stock,?
Burrfection collection as in: "here are 10 different types of knives, I would sharpen them like this on this and here is why..." I find your videos very informative, but I find it difficult to remember all the good tips and in which video I saw whatever I forgot.
Also videos like: japanese vs europa vs american whetstones could be fun the same with knives.
I try to pick up at least one knife made by a respected maker every year in Japan. I remember one visit to Masamoto in Tsukiji market where the guy sharpening my knife had a bandage on every finger ;) You're the first knife sharpener I've ever seen without any.
Sparkey Jones ya I sharpen knives probably daily currently have three bandaged fingers
@@dizzy897 LOL... after watching many sharpeners in Japan I thought that was normal ;)
love the 3 camera view. I have a yanigiba and a deba for a lefty. I had a hard time sharpening them. now I know! looks like I've sharpened them the wrong way, hopefully I can bring them back to life as i was never satisfied with how i sharpened them. very helpful video.
thanks for writing. stay in touch and let me know if you are able to bring their edges back to life.
my man!! I was able to fix the edge on my Yanagi with your method!!
the stone stays super clean at all times. No slud or something.....
I guess it is a pretty expensive stone.
Great sharpening technic. A real pro.
really enjoyed seeing the snow white and yanagi, would love to quickly have seen the finish it leaves on the two steels, also +1 on the third angle, it really proved your point on how hard it can be to keep the knife flat on the back
will make sure i do that for next video
Show us your ring in a microscope. Many times you wipe the sharpening stone and we could hear the metal ring getting sharpened as well. It's interesting to see the scratches on it. This is a request.
You should not grind that much on the Urasuki (flat side). You should only have to focused on the Shinogi.
For 1-2 time sharpening like you did will be fine.. but in years, you will definitely flatten the concave on the Urasuki..
Usually the ratio will be 10:1 or 20:1, on the Shinogi:Urasuki sharpening time
Exactly. I have many years experience in sharpening knives and I started from the beginning on the Shinogi, until the burr appears all along the Urasuki. When this happens I just remove the burr (just some very slight strokes) and I am done with this stone. Actually I don't use waterstones anymore, diamond stones are my preferred tools. You don't need water, nor have to flatten the stone and you are much faster. Disadvantage is, that you have to be careful handeling the blade, if not you get very ugly scratches.
What traditional japanese knife users never do is the use of leather straps to finish it with an unbelievable sharpness.
But I do 😇
I have 4 of them. One with a 'coarse' silicon carbide topping, next is 6 u diamond paste, followed by 3 u and 1 u, finished by the last leather soaked with leather balm.
The results are mirror, more than razor sharp blades. I love those cutting edges, which have the pleasant side effect that no family member dares to use my knives
It was rocking a little as well. You can see the front end of the knife lifting off of the stone at times.
Also what’s the difference between angling the knife diagonally to the stone as he says not to do at the start and moving the knife in a diagonal motion as he’s doing when he moves along the blade? They both put scratches diagonally along the blade.
@@murph8411 so in the case of the ura he says it wares the knife unevenly, not an issue in my experience, ive also seen almost every master sharpener on youtube sharpen the ura at whatever position they want, as ling as the blade is flat on a flat stone, the bevel doesn't actually matter what position you sharpen at
this this reply might not be too much help considering that I just was yours is from 1 year ago
@@tylermelton1746 In my experience, keeping the blade at right angles while working on the uraoshi is pretty common advice from most skilled Japanese sharpeners (I have seen several native Japanese sharpening experts say the same). I think Ryky's reasoning for why this is is close but not quite right, though.
IMHO, the reason for keeping the blade perpendicular to the stone is because otherwise, it is very easy to inadvertently end up sharpening the front edge more or less than the back edge when you get to either the heel or the tip (especially with the handle in the way), which can effectively cause a "twisting" of the blade over time, making it hard to actually sharpen that part properly and can make the knife not cut straight (depending on how severe it becomes). Also, if you spend substantially more time on certain parts than others, you could end up with uneven wear between the corresponding edge/spine parts of the uraoshi (also resulting in "twisting") as well, if it is done at an angle. If people are very careful to avoid those issues, it's probably not a problem, but keeping it perpendicular is, in general, an easy way to not have to worry about these things as much in the first place..
This is also why going diagonally is generally not a problem on the front side (and most folks will say it's fine), because the basic shape/straightness and cutting line of the blade is determined by the uraoshi on the back, not any of the material on the front, so if the front wears unevenly it doesn't affect the long-term performance of the blade that much, but screwing up the back definitely can (and is often much harder to fix as well).
(And regarding the original comment by @Ashadi Budi, I think what's being missed here is that Ryky says a few times that he is not putting any pressure when working on the uraoshi, so while it seems like he is spending a lot of time on it, he is really just honing it, not trying to grind it down at all, unlike when he spends time on the front side and does use pressure. I have seen others who use equal pressure and thus spend less time on the uraoshi to compensate, so it's just a question of whether you're varying the pressure or the time to get the same effect. The only thing you don't want to do is use *both* pressure and spend a long time on the uraoshi, though, which certainly will wear it down unnecessarily fast.)
I thought the sharpeners at Korin were the best until I watched this video. I’m now.confident I can sharpen a Yanagi. Thanks
I'm now following your tip and just aplaing pressure when the edge is going and not coming. At least, I try. It helped! Thanks
right on. glad my video helped you a bit.
Hello Ricky...thank you so much for this multi view video...I now understand so much!!! I got the Kamikoto knife set for Christmas LAST year, here it’s almost Christmas again and only got to use them a few times. Because it is recommended to purchase their whetstone as well, however I have had no luck finding it. After watching so many videos on whetstone sharpening yours is by far the best. I have a 1000 and 6000 and because it’s 2020, my knives are for home use now :( and been tucked away for so many months. I feel some what comfortable to sharpen and use my knives again. (Without ruining them) Do you have a video on the Kamikoto knives too? If not do you recommend using the same techniques you use in THIS video? Thanks again!
Really enjoy your videos. You're so calm and easily understood. Thanks!
I must say that aesthetically, the edge of this knife is a work of art.
its' not bad.
The more I learn the deeper the rabbit hole goes!
don't dig too deep!
Just ordered your 1000/6000 stone to replaced my broken 4000. I can’t wait to try it out!
One of your most interesting vids for me. It's probably just because I really like yanagis
thanks for writing and the feedback.
I just bought this Yanagi, ty, and I noticed when you sharpening the tip of the knife, you get tiled often
I see what you mean concerning tilting the knife by the handle when sharpening the flat side.
You did it on 95% of the strokes on that side! I'm surprised the first 3 inches of the blade from the tip would cut warm butter.
I was considering buying Yanagiba as my first Japanese knife, but I think it would not be a great start for a beginner whetstone sharpener, especially because of the concave nature of blade :D Probably I'll start with Gyuto.
I would like to share my journey with you if I may, just one school of thought.
I was privileged to learn from great Chef-mentors during my time as a young 15-years old Commis Chef in Manhattan. One of my most influential mentors, Tony Bourdain, instructed me very early on, to learn how to properly cut (Japanese styles), by first using a SBK (single-bevel knife), AND how to sharpen on Wheatstone’s using my SBK. This was the case because learning how to cut properly with a SBK will teach you proper knife technique and handling that will absolutely carry over into the DBK-world, ultimately making you an overall better knife handler with BOTH SBK’s & SBK’s.
Also, the SBK being easier to sharpen than a DBK on wheatstones, was also an excellent means to learn how to sharpen both SBK’s and eventually DBK’s.
So I say this to you, though my first knife was a 180mm Masamoto KS Usuba-Kamagata, you could go for either the Kamagata or the Hishigata styles of Usuba, or even more versatile of a suggestion perhaps, would be a single-bevel Santoku. Ya Avis a Re AMAZING knives, however they being long & think, really can only easily be used for slicing in a long, single motion. So unless you are only going to be slicing Sushi/Sashimi/meats, you would only be learning 1 style of cutting, the slice, whereas the other SBK blade choices would allow from you to learn many more styles of cuts (push-pull, push, slice, dice, rock).
I hope this helps, and I wish you all the best of success in your culinary career.
~S
I own the same knife. First time I sharpened it, I noticed that the sharpening pattern on the shinogi line isn't regular, and some section got scratched more than others, maybe due to poor manifacture. Is it possible? Of course, it's a 100 euros knife, it can't be so accurate than knives that costs 3 times more. However, I decided to remove all the sanded surface on the shinogi line using a coarse stone, than I re-sharpened and re-polished all the knife and now it looks fine and cuts very well.
I bought a tojiro shirogami yanagiba too. Removed the sandpaper like part just using secondary bevel of the knife, putting it flat the stone. The problem is I'm still trying to make stone contact with the edge when sharpening the bevel side. Yesterday I gave up after several hours and today I will continue. Only a small line on the edge is remaining to be contacted, I'm seeing it using sharpie/marker. Using coarse stones. Once I get the burr I will jump to 1k 3k 8k. I regret buying this knife because when you sharpen the bevel side it removes the sandy finish in the first sharpening, and it has factory sharpened not like a traditional yanagiba. I will fix mine but it is almost like I'm working on manufacturing of it due to improper sharpening it comes with. Unless you tilt the bevel up and misuse a yanagiba which I won't do.
I am sure you've already named your brick - but I've just thought of a name for it as well "The Desharpenator"
Ralph Patrick he should name Korg, cause it's made out rocks haha
That's such a dull name.
Wouldn't using the diamond stone to flatten the 1K like that not make it totally flat since you didn't use the entire surface of the diamond as a reference?
sorry friend, but this is not how you sharpen a Yangiba. In Japan, we do not start from the flat side. the falt side is being sharpened only at the very end. The reason for this is, the two thin stripes you have shown on the flat side, are thin and once those are gone, you can through away the knife, so only one to three passes, in the end, on a high grit polishing stone.
I love getting my knives that sharp!!!! My wife thinks I'm weird but it's a very satisfying feeling :-)
That is awesome!
Professional work . Thank you a lot
doing my best.
Thank you i use ur technique every time and the results are amazing
right on. didn't know people actually try to emulate my technique. i'm flattered.
Some schools of thought advise sharpening 90/10 on the bevelled/flat side, whereas you are sharpening it 50/50.
Do you know the pros and cons of each and why did you choose 50/50?
I've since thought about this some more. Sharpening 50/50 bevelled/flat side as you have done is actually incorrect.
The flat side is actually concave to assist with release of the sliced food.
By sharpening the flat side as much as you have, you are removing the concave section and slowly ruining your knife.
90/10 bevelled/flat (or the minimal amount required to remove the burr on the flat side) is the better technique.
Generally you only sharpen the back side with your finest stone to remove the bur. You do it 50/50 on that one stone only. You can do a few light strokes on the finer stones leading up the finest stone too.
I actualy sharpen the bevel edge first and only finish off the burr on the concave side to minimize the wear, as its my work knife, and keep the cutting edge in the same position for consistency
If you are servicing a good blade, little work need be done on the concave side. In this case, he destroyed the edge on a brick, including severe breakdown of the flat edge of the concave side... he had to restore the functional shape to the entire plane of the back side edges thanks to destruction of the edge that would rarely happen in real life.
Great vid! Any chance you or someone here can explain the differences in stones? I have one stone with a double side. Not sure which side to use and after watching this, do I need multiple stones to sharpen my yanagiba?
I thought you had to move the shinogi line up when you sharpen those to keep it constant.
If your using that atmos flattening corse grit plate, where can I replacement plates when they stop cutting into the stone?
Affordable prices please
29 bro... It was 29 times!?! And I was cringing the whole time!! Hahahahaaaa.. you are the best tho.. sooo no worries!!!
I'm not arguing because I am no authority, but it seems like a lot of people say to apply pressure into the blade. I did see at least one test that "confirmed " push pressure results in a sharper blade in the end. Though the grain didn't look as good before polish. Crescent, pull, push, push pull...they all seem to work for me, but I like your theory about the blade digging in.
Probably you are the only one on youtube that explains everything in details :) I have one question for you, I started sharping my yanagiba and I ended up with some scratches on the front blade from bad angle use, I'm new so mistakes are a must, is there a way I can remove the scratches ? Thanks
hey Andrea. thanks for writing and the encouraging comment. IF the scratches are above the shinogi line, you'll have tougher time removing the scratches. it'll take a lot of time, but you can use 0000# steel wool, and polish the entire surface above the shinogi line. (i know,,,,, it's a pain). the reason is, you have to blend the surface so the newly removed scratches will not look too different from rest of the knife.
when i sharpen my cheap ass kitchen knife i always do it Japanese style. I managed to put such a ridiculously sharp edge on it that when cutting anything i let the blades weight do the cutting :)
Excellent teaching, best wishes
Many thanks
thank you so much to teach me how to sharpering yanagiba and share the web side for us
right on Kobe. welcome and stay in touch
Mannnn every single time I see that brick I cry a little on the inside lol Great stuff man, really been learning a lot through your videos
Very nice job, split screen awesome 👍, excellent tutoring
This technique really works ! 😊
28 times on the brick i m crying 😭
😂😂😂
somebody has to do it
It's not going to cut into that brick on its own!
I was screaming. My roommates bust the door down. "KNIFE! BRICK! AAHHHHHHH!"
Can I use a hardware store sourced silicon carbide stone to flatten my whetstone?
@@BPAZPH stick a piece of 320 grit wet and dry to a tile or float glass and use that.
Great video! One question, once you got a burr on both sides on the 1000 grit, why did you sharpen both sides a few more times? In my understanding, this is pointless and I immediately move to the next grit. Is there something different about single bevel knives that require this? Thanks!
you can stop if you want to. i normally do that and develop a much small burr. sometimes the large burrs are harder to remove, so i create finer burrs when i go back and forth. nothing wrong with your logic
I'm a cook and learning much from of sharpening knife on stones... I just ordered a 800 grit king stone... we have 3 tramontina knives 8" 2 of them another 6" with the air pockets... really like watching u... I'm still wondering isn't a burr a good thing? Like making the burr is making the blade sharper right?
Light pressure and not rushing to see results is the key to not scratch the jigane and higane . Slow and steady wins the race right ?
Bought my first high quality yanagiba and i do not want to ruin its look .
That is why I am asking
Thanks Burrdude
nice one mate. i do have a problem sharpening though. i have a soba knife so yeah same techinque but no its a different knife.. could u pls make a tutorial on soba knifes?? cheers
You NEED to let people know that these knives have a hollow on the back and that this is BY DESIGN and that sharpening the back will result in a polish around the edges of the knife, all the way around and that the hollow is a feature, not a defect to be ground out.
hi, I just bought a yanagiba from this funny guy in hong kong called burrfection... ever heard of him?
Anyway, I looked to your channel to learn how to sharpen this knife, been a sub for quite a while. As a woodworker with many japanese tools (planes, chisels, saws, hammers) I am VERY familiar with hollow ground japanese blades and japanese steels. I have recently started to collect Japanese knives as I am also a cook and I have a knife fetish, oops i mean passion! I also started shaving with straight razors and bought 6 vintage blades and learned how to sharpen those.
As such, I think you didn't really highlight the flat back of this type of knife very well. You mentioned it vaguely as a "polish" going all the way around the knife, and then said there was a "concave finish". You then trampled all over that to caution the user about the angle of attack the blade makes with the stone. Very confusing, and not very clear. Plus you really should have showed a clear view of the hollow. Maybe talk about why its there? I know the answer to that since i work with Japanese chisels and plane blades, but your subs should be informed too.
I can see that based on how you sharpened it and the knife i just got, that there is a distinct hollow on the back. the knife I just bought has NEVER been sharpened other than the factory grind, and the hollow is not visible except with a straight edge, there is no polish going around the edge of the knife to highlight the hollow.. It's a Mizuno Tanrenjo / Minamoto Akitada DX Yanagiba (a really beautiful knife I might add). once I sharpen it, the hollow will jump out. I fear that people not familiar with this type of grind will be puzzled and may ruin their knife trying to "fix" it.
The ONLY western blades I know of with hollows, are straight razors, and they have a DOUBLE BEVEL HOLLOW. They are even more fun to sharpen than a knife.
And yes... you are REALLY bad at holding the flat back flat against the stone.!!!
Hay sir I'm trying to fix my yaganiba but it's not getting where it needs to be theres a small line at the blades end please help me
Thanks for the vid.all the details that you put into it! Thumbs up! I only have one question... why do you want to put a bevel in your edge? Thanks for the answer in advance!
Help! ......I have a carbon steel Yanagi. When I lay it front face down on the stone it feels like I am not sharpening the edge bevel ...the edge bevel is about 1mm wide and maybe 1 or 2 degree off of the main bevel..pushing the knife down on the stone it still feels like the knife is still just riding on the main bevel between the shinogi line and the edge bevel. If I tilt the knife up higher I don't feel like I am maintaining a constant angle...before I destroy the edge or use a rough stone to take the edge bevel out all together - Bad idea) I need some advice....help!
get a 400 grit stone and grind it out. It may take up to a half hour or more to get it flat again (less depending on the damage). What it sounds like is someone already sharpened it and thought it had too shallow of a bevel, or their hand had a mild wobble that made it a convex. Have you sharpened the knife before? Alternatively you can send it to a professional sharpener or buy a new knife.
It also sounds like you have a secondary bevel. 1mm is a good deal of a bevel. The only other option is to blend it into the primary bevel making a convex, but i don't recommend that unless it's a bushcraft knife. I would take the kick to the balls and use a 400 or 600 grit stone to take it back down. You will loose a good bit of steel, but it's really the only way.
MB: this knife was straight out of the box. I don't expect a new knife to be "extremely" sharp but relatively so...shave the hair on my arm would be a good starting point. Maybe its a good knife to advance my sharpening skills and problem-solving abilities...thanks for the reply...cheers!
wait hold up... it was out of box with that large of an issue? Where did you buy it from? I would say though if you have a 400 or 600 grit stone that would be a great knife to learn to sharpen with. Good luck!
It's doesn't seem like an issue or defect. There are 2 possibilities for your situation.
1. Knife maker decided to put on a compound bevel (usually under the lamination line), which is a common practice for Japanese knives, ESPECIALLY the deba for durability. A lot of people have the misconception that Japanese knives should always be ground straight down from the shinogi line, when that isn't the case. Sometimes a bevel is also put on the ura (concave) side of the knife.
2. You don't have correct finger placement/pressure, and rely too much on the shinogi line when sharpening.
Hi Ricky,
Thanks this is the first time how you sharpen the sashimi knife I did it a wrong way and ruined my knife. Rusty razor medium rusty to clean the
stone. Will you sell some of your used knifes. Where did you buy the stone holder to hold the sharping stone and a metal to smooth the stone. Where did you buy the white stone. What do you call the hold set.
Man I dig the vids a lot man, thanks!! You have a calm way about you - you’re a good educator my man! Very cool.
Also I did notice from your camera angles, that when you were sharpening the flat side perpendicular to stone, you barely ever got the tip. You can see it lifting off. Just wondering if you meant to do that. Also, do you ever use higher grits, like 12k or higher for sushi knives? Or jnats or vermio hones?
The three camera angles really woks well.
right on. glad you like it, and thanks for the feedback
I AM one of those, who are new to your channel and YES, i hurts...it hurts so much to see this, AAHHHH
Hi real nice video, I have yanagi myself but having issue with the front tip, seems it doesn’t sharpen at the same degree with the rest of the knife maybe you can give me a tip on that. Also few videos I watched recommended that I raise the front tip little higher while just sharpening the tip but I’m afraid that would ruin the natural shape of the knife. Thanks in advance.
Great video, thanks for sharing. Like your style.
Hello I got a DMT coarse diamond stone on amazon.. do you think this is good for flattening? I will be sharpening chisels.
thank you for this content ❤
When I saw u doin that thing with the brick..... I suscribed your channel immediately :)
So I'm pretty confused. Lol. Sorry. It looks like there are actually two bevels on the right side of the knife. It looks like you're sharpening the Shinogi line only. But then you have a second bevel on top of that one that looks more reflective. I don't get it. Are you supposed to just run the knife on the Whetstone on the Shinogi line only and then you'll simply have one bevel? I'm lost.
I just found your you tube channel and I thinks it's awesome ..What wet stone would you recommend I start with? Something economical,I home cook quite often and have an assortment of knives.I'd like to start this as a hoppy.I'm not happy at all with the old school electrical knife sharpeners.Thank you
My mouth has been agape for a whole minute watching you dull that knife 😂
Wauw. Really good video. I watched the whole thing. I'm gonna try that with my sushi knife
Hey man, what exactly do you mean when you say “feel for the burr”, also with a single bevel yinogiba would you sharpen the flat side of the other side more, thanks for this video with the multiple camera angles was very informative.
I appreciate your wealth of knowledge and the time you spend sharing it. I had a question regarding whetstone progression. Do you always just use two stones; for example the chosera 800 then a finishing stone like the Snow White? Do you ever do 800 then 3000 to 5000 then finish on 8000? I’m a recent enthusiast and am trying to develop a consistent progression and don’t know how many progressions are necessary to achieve a consistent sharp mirror finish edge. Thank you!
I personally finish on 3k then strop . Naniwa 3k and then raw equine store.burrfection.com/
Hi, I like your video, it is very nicely done. I make sharpening videos as well so I know it isn't as easy as you make it look. Well done my sharpener friend, much respect.
right on Pete. right back at you.
Ryky, I see that your not a flattener, that's interesting. I think is important to explore things like that, we always hear people on forums telling us that we should do this and do that but often there is no explanation. For years I kept hearing people telling me not to bother sharpening European knives higher than 1,000 grit, I saw it written on websites but there was no explanation as to why. So I think some folks just repeat what is heard but I spent about 3 years trying to figure out why I should stop a 1k and I did find the reason eventually. I will check out your review of Cerax stones, I haven't used them yet.
i''ll have to do a video on that very issue...... working on it.
Really enjoy the videos. I am new to sharpening with wet stones. All my knives are from Japan and last time I was there I bought the sharpening gear. I have the same stone holder but where did you get the bar that holds that over the water?
Thanks John
here you go amzn.to/2vp3wMT
Hi Ricky,
What’s the brand of ur flattening stone? Looks very good. My flattening stone always end up curving after few time flattening my wetstone?
razor sharp, what a great video, thanks for uploading it
all good. thanks for watching
The snow white is beautiful 😍
can't agree more
thanks for the video, may I ask , what is the thing on your right hand?
Do you ever pull your knife on leather after sharpening?Is it because you use so high grit (8000) so you don´t need leather stropping?
A very nice guide, it helps a lot since i'm new to this ^^
right on!
It seems like it would be significantly easier to sharpen this type of knife because you can lay it flat on the stone (and not fret about angle). Is that the case?
Hi, would you go about sharpening a single bevel Honesuki the same way? The spine of the blade and the edge are not parallel at all so I was wondering if you’d put an angle on the flat side
tell me please what kind of yanagiba is it?
Tojiro Aogami Steel Kasumi Nagashi Yanagiba or another knife?
amazing video,thanks
it's the Shirogami version. 270mm of this one amzn.to/2mgDSRF
@@Burrfection I just bought the same , less than 100USD
Another great video thanks.
Question: Why are you starting the sharpening from the flat side first? Yes I know you always start on the flat side, but why?
Keep up the good work, I am a DHRTF (Die Hard Ricky Tan Fan) XD
vasil ralev sure you are you didn’t even spell his name right
@@dizzy897 I am from Bulgaria, so he will forgive me.
Good video! Where should a Yanagiba be balanced? Center of knife? Tia
5:33 breaks my heart!
No. Just allow someone to use one of your knives and it falls down on a stone floor and the leading edge breaks out. That really breaks your heart and blood pressure increases rapidly...
Amazing I really would like to learn to sharp knives the proper way.
just practice, Victor! and there are many ways to sharpen a knife. i'm sure many "experts" will say my way is not proper.
Burrfection yes my friend I am checking amazon to see what knive I will buy but I like a lot the Japanese Knives that’s why I am in your Chanel because I love all about Japanese Knives👍
Hola, me gustó mucho Cómo explicaste todo. Soy nuevo y por favor me gustaría saber qué cuchillos comprar para Sushi que no sean tan caros y también cuáles sharpeners? Por favor y Muchas gracias.
Hi Ryky. I ordered two atomas from you and did what you did at 2:36. Pretty funny to see that you did that too! I got s 150# and a 400# and slapped them together.
I was curious. I've sharpened a total of roughly 20 knives using those atomas since ordering. I'd say half of them were restorations, I've use them on some tools as well. One of them is starting to get some discoloration (yellow).
I can tell they are getting a little duller. Do you have a rough estimate on when to swap out the tops with new ones? Thanks for all you do.
CZ
thank you for this tut, just got my first "decent" yanagi and i followed your instructions, question on the microbevel thought, the next time i need to resharpen, do i sharpen the knife flat on the shinogi line again with no problems?
Bit late, but as with chisels, you need only sharpen the microbevel, but make sure not to let it grow too much (when it begins to become more of a secondary bevel than a microbevel, thin it).
can you do a tutorial on how to sharpen a deba knife?
First time viewer and when you picked up the brick I cringed and your disclaimer made me laugh because you were so right...
Hey loved your video! What did you use to resurface your stone....I work with alot of chef who use my stuff and wreck the surface
But if the flat side is actually concave, don’t you flatten that after sharpening it a few times on the that side?
Not gonna lie.... I totally cringed at him dulling the blade on the teusty brick. But when he said "to people new to my channel" I figured he did it often, then said he did it often. Now rewatching that bit, I am a lot more desensitized.
I am happy he does that, to truly help one learn how to appropriately use a wetstone.
Definitely helped me figure out how to sharpen my kotobuki shashimi knife.
Can you domonstrate how to sharpen serrated knives?
What brand of stones are you using? They seem bigger than what I can find on the web. Also the details of the flattening stone, Thanks
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