U should put some piece of rubber between the bed and tailgate and just run it under the bed liner so when u dump the items flow out good and dont fill that gap
OK, maybe get a piece of conveyor belt to go under the back end of the bed liner screwed to the metal and over the tailgate liner to bridge the gap, so your load doesn't get hung up!👌👍🙋 You could also build a scissor lift mechanism underneath so you don't have to have the crane part sticking up so high.
You have created too much stress on the box section drawbar where the two chassis meet by too much weld with no gusset or some sort of bracing. That is subject to crack. Your rear pivot hinges have weld all around, which once again stresses the box section, and the hinges could crack out. When welding on to box section where its under greater loads you need to be creative on how you go about it. In most cases, you need to plate the box and then weld on the plate. I'm not sure if I explained that correctly? I'm only trying to help. Good video and all the best from an old Aussie.
@@darylkaufman9142 I would like to do another that extends with a smaller winch. But 11 foot is manageable. I can fit under all the small train bridges here
I was making a hitch for a car drilling in the frame and oil started squirting at me lol. I thought the sun heated up water or oil in the frame. Turned out to be the hydrolic bump stops if you get rear ended LMAO 🤣 i was really freaked out because it sqirted all over me and it was highly unexpected. Cool trailer btw never seen a 4x4 trailer LMAO
Thinking the mass dont look good or right at all think u build a lift mechanism like in a dump truck & pull back witch would lift the bed & wouldn't have all that in the air but the rest come out nice
I prefer a short mast with scissor hinge underneath, winch cable rides on pulley and picks body up to around 30 degrees then the winch starts pulling on the scissor hinge rest of the way. What winch did you use?
I have a 70s c10 long bed I saved for this application and never finished it. I also have a Kioti CK2610 how you like yours? I found a dump bed that fits my 3500hd but think 2 yards or 3 yards top and will cost me $1800 delivered or I can finish my C10 dump trailer. Cool video.
Mines not much different 2620. It’s good. Haven’t had it long. It’s a strong machine for its size. Sometimes I wish I hade more lift. I would do the trailer. Modifying your truck like that in some areas they might think your commercial
What is your total cost of supplies, minus donor truck? I was actually getting ready to build a similar setup, but I didn't want to buy the $4000 Hydraulic ram kit for the lifting set up.
I priced the hydraulics to be $1500 minus any fittings and hoses. And however many trips to the hydraulic shop. The juice brake hitch/ coupler was $450. Roughly $600 in steel. But the angle iron I bought for another project. Winch was $300. $75 for the pulley. I had no hardware for brakes so that was $250 or so. Most other things I had already. I would say I did it for $1500- definitely not more than $1800.
I liked it and you could up grade it to a self contained hydraulic set up. You could put one to gather it wouldn't have to be new stuff you can find a lot of it you can rebuild if the price is right that would save a lot of $$$$. I also subed.
@@SgtRudySmithbRet suspension will hold more than 2200 pounds from experience before riding on the bump stops. It’s pretty heavy duty weight 2200 empty. I think gross 6-6500 is possible. So 4k payload
Much cheaper. once you start making lines and fitting cost are up there now. Hydro Pumps are like $600 and then either building or buying a scissor style lift would be very expensive. I would have to find a used one somewhere. The other option would be a tall telescoping cylinder which would also be in the $700-$800 range. I may build another one where the mast extends so it’s not so tall going down the road.
@@FcDominick thanks for the Answer! I just convert a small trailer to a dump trailer and put a hydraulic inside , with a Hand pump inside everything costs about 400$, I’m upgrading it with a 2nd pump operated by a cordless drill so I don’t have to do it by hand. Maybe it’s a idea for your next project? Check it out 😄 DIY Kipper Akkuschrauber Pumpe erster Test , DIY Dumptrailer Cordless Drill Pump first Test ! czcams.com/users/shortsu0mga_fE4-I?feature=share
I might do that and leave the other one as well. Compare height vs dump angle. Say 8 inch extension forward. I think it would gain angle but loose overall height.
@@loganpark7993 the pulling power is the strongest when the rope is more parallel. So further out would correct that. Down might help more height but would have same or less pulling power up
@@FcDominick fair enough, money is always a factor. I probably would've saved some money on replacing all the brakes and spent it on the ram instead, but nonetheless great job!
@@hurtinalbertan3844 I had 0 brakes or hardware. It was all removed when I got the truck. Was really set on hydraulic brakes. I’d think a mast the raised and lowered would be an upgrade I’d explore further first
@@FcDominick the actual truck should be able to handle 3000-4000 lbs without trailer brakes, the trailer itself maybe weighs ~1000lbs, how much weight do you plan on hauling with it? Or even I know around here in Canada you can get whole rear axles from pick n pull for $180, it's probably even cheaper in the state if that's where you're from. Not bashing your design or anything, that's just the route I would've went
@@FcDominick I did a quick google search and depending on your area, trailer brakes are required when the trailer "laden weight" is 2000lbs OR more than half of the tow vehicle weight. But you do need breakaway brakes for any trailer over 2000lbs. Just fun facts in case anyone was wondering lol
U should put some piece of rubber between the bed and tailgate and just run it under the bed liner so when u dump the items flow out good and dont fill that gap
I have thick rubber roofing I thought about using for that. But with out the factory bumper a lot of things that fit don’t stay in.
weld a square tube in midle going down a foot or 2 and hook ur hook to it so it brings the bed up higher
This here is the way to go
OK, maybe get a piece of conveyor belt to go under the back end of the bed liner screwed to the metal and over the tailgate liner to bridge the gap, so your load doesn't get hung up!👌👍🙋 You could also build a scissor lift mechanism underneath so you don't have to have the crane part sticking up so high.
Probably gonna use some rubber roofing Mayer for something like that
You have created too much stress on the box section drawbar where the two chassis meet by too much weld with no gusset or some sort of bracing. That is subject to crack. Your rear pivot hinges have weld all around, which once again stresses the box section, and the hinges could crack out. When welding on to box section where its under greater loads you need to be creative on how you go about it. In most cases, you need to plate the box and then weld on the plate. I'm not sure if I explained that correctly? I'm only trying to help. Good video and all the best from an old Aussie.
I'm in the process of doing the same thing just trying to make a retractable mast so I'm not riding around with all that in the air... good build❤️👍
@@darylkaufman9142 I would like to do another that extends with a smaller winch. But 11 foot is manageable. I can fit under all the small train bridges here
I was making a hitch for a car drilling in the frame and oil started squirting at me lol. I thought the sun heated up water or oil in the frame. Turned out to be the hydrolic bump stops if you get rear ended LMAO 🤣 i was really freaked out because it sqirted all over me and it was highly unexpected. Cool trailer btw never seen a 4x4 trailer LMAO
I had just seen u built ur Dump Trailer video. works and look COOL.. Congrats Young Man..
Thanks. I should have another video out soon. Been moving a lot of material with it
Great job, i would instal some guides so when you put heavy load it doesnt go to sides and break your hinges.
Thinking the mass dont look good or right at all think u build a lift mechanism like in a dump truck & pull back witch would lift the bed & wouldn't have all that in the air but the rest come out nice
thank you for showing the build out . made my day ... aloha
Muchas Felicidades Joven Por Su Canal.
Saludos Cordiales Desde Mazatlán, Sinaloa, México. ..
I prefer a short mast with scissor hinge underneath, winch cable rides on pulley and picks body up to around 30 degrees then the winch starts pulling on the scissor hinge rest of the way. What winch did you use?
Harbor freight 9k
I have a 70s c10 long bed I saved for this application and never finished it. I also have a Kioti CK2610 how you like yours? I found a dump bed that fits my 3500hd but think 2 yards or 3 yards top and will cost me $1800 delivered or I can finish my C10 dump trailer. Cool video.
Mines not much different 2620. It’s good. Haven’t had it long. It’s a strong machine for its size. Sometimes I wish I hade more lift. I would do the trailer. Modifying your truck like that in some areas they might think your commercial
Great intro😆
What is your total cost of supplies, minus donor truck? I was actually getting ready to build a similar setup, but I didn't want to buy the $4000 Hydraulic ram kit for the lifting set up.
I priced the hydraulics to be $1500 minus any fittings and hoses. And however many trips to the hydraulic shop.
The juice brake hitch/ coupler was $450. Roughly $600 in steel. But the angle iron I bought for another project. Winch was $300. $75 for the pulley. I had no hardware for brakes so that was $250 or so. Most other things I had already. I would say I did it for $1500- definitely not more than $1800.
excellent excellent work my dude, i wish you can make me one out of a 2024 silverado dually bed to match my truck ..... ID PAY YOU MONIES for one
I liked it and you could up grade it to a self contained hydraulic set up. You could put one to gather it wouldn't have to be new stuff you can find a lot of it you can rebuild if the price is right that would save a lot of $$$$. I also subed.
That’s pretty cool. I may have to build one myself.
Pretty handy if you don’t need to haul tons
@@FcDominick I’m thinking about building something similar to use for cleaning up my property, hauling scrap or making dump runs.
@@tri5garage544 exactly my plan. Super handy for the time it’s been built. Registration should be here in a few weeks.
How much do you think it will "safely" haul? @@FcDominick
@@SgtRudySmithbRet suspension will hold more than 2200 pounds from experience before riding on the bump stops. It’s pretty heavy duty weight 2200 empty. I think gross 6-6500 is possible. So 4k payload
genius 👏
Great job that will be very Handy!
Great idea and video. What year is your Studebaker truck?
Thanks, 1951. The full build is on the channel from a few years back.
@@FcDominick I'll check it out. My build is stalled right now but I'm doing a Studebaker Explorer frame swap. I love the look of those trucks.
@@LastMinuteGarage full explorer drivetrain?
@@FcDominick Yes. 5.0 V8 AWD which also has 4 wheel disk brakes, and an 8.8 limited slip rear diff. I hope to resume the project early next year.
The trailer looks awesome, can I ask you why you used a winch and not a hydraulic cylinder? Wouldn’t cost more…
Much cheaper. once you start making lines and fitting cost are up there now. Hydro Pumps are like $600 and then either building or buying a scissor style lift would be very expensive. I would have to find a used one somewhere. The other option would be a tall telescoping cylinder which would also be in the $700-$800 range. I may build another one where the mast extends so it’s not so tall going down the road.
@@FcDominick thanks for the Answer! I just convert a small trailer to a dump trailer and put a hydraulic inside , with a Hand pump inside everything costs about 400$, I’m upgrading it with a 2nd pump operated by a cordless drill so I don’t have to do it by hand. Maybe it’s a idea for your next project? Check it out 😄 DIY Kipper Akkuschrauber Pumpe erster Test , DIY Dumptrailer Cordless Drill Pump first Test !
czcams.com/users/shortsu0mga_fE4-I?feature=share
Need a redbull sponsorship after this
I wish
Hi, good idea! What about registration of trailer?
I got it registered and titles. State issued vin. That video is about half way finished.
Is it difficult process?
@@Maxxximma not here. I didn’t have to do anything other than drop it off for inspection and cut a check.
Ok, thanks
How tall of a master did u need for that dump angle?
I think I’m right at 12 ft from the ground.
You could gain some angle adding a downward extension where your d ring is on bed
I might do that and leave the other one as well. Compare height vs dump angle.
Say 8 inch extension forward. I think it would gain angle but loose overall height.
Just straight down was more my thought. If it extends below the hinge it will be closer at the top and get more height
@@loganpark7993 the pulling power is the strongest when the rope is more parallel. So further out would correct that. Down might help more height but would have same or less pulling power up
@@FcDominick yep and the further straight down you go below the hinge to closer to vertical it will be at the top
When you say cheap, how much do you think you spent?
@@Superduty_59 $1,200 on the high side.
Use the winch on a sizzor lift hinge under the box n get rid of that hideous looking hoist u built
or just set it to ur tongue it will give u little more in pulling up
I like it but all that work and you clearly have the skills... why not a hydraulic ram instead of the winch setup?
Cheapest ram set up new would be roughly 12-1400 more plus time and labor getting lines made
@@FcDominick fair enough, money is always a factor. I probably would've saved some money on replacing all the brakes and spent it on the ram instead, but nonetheless great job!
@@hurtinalbertan3844 I had 0 brakes or hardware. It was all removed when I got the truck. Was really set on hydraulic brakes. I’d think a mast the raised and lowered would be an upgrade I’d explore further first
@@FcDominick the actual truck should be able to handle 3000-4000 lbs without trailer brakes, the trailer itself maybe weighs ~1000lbs, how much weight do you plan on hauling with it? Or even I know around here in Canada you can get whole rear axles from pick n pull for $180, it's probably even cheaper in the state if that's where you're from. Not bashing your design or anything, that's just the route I would've went
@@FcDominick I did a quick google search and depending on your area, trailer brakes are required when the trailer "laden weight" is 2000lbs OR more than half of the tow vehicle weight. But you do need breakaway brakes for any trailer over 2000lbs. Just fun facts in case anyone was wondering lol
Nice 😎💯🦾🦾
u will need to cut the back of the tongue a little
Hopefully the break light wires will keep it from sliding across the intersection 😅😅
You are going to put thousands of pounds in that thing and the main attachment is hinges 😅😅
Yes is needs hinges to dump.