Video není dostupné.
Omlouváme se.
How To Make A CNC Threaded Wasteboard
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- Check out the Onefinity CNC Machine Here:
www.onefinitycnc.com
This is a custom threaded wasteboard for hobby CNC machines. This was specifically designed for the Shapeoko 3 XXL but can work for the Onefinity, Xcarve, and Many other Hobby CNC machines! The file can easily be changed to your specific machines needs. This is the key component of all my files. The cam clamps, L clamps, and full fence all easily attach to this with just a few bolts.
This video will walk you through how to create, cut, and install the threaded wasteboard.
Get the files here:
www.etsy.com/shop/benmyerswood...
Get the new MEGA PACK, all files, one purchase! etsy.me/3ALWui0
TOOLS / MATERIALS
Buy The Shapeoko 3 Here : www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
■ 1/4 - 20 t nuts
(1/4"-20 T Nuts - 4 Prongs - Zinc Plated -for Cabinetry, Rock Climbing Walls, Woodworking, etc. - .25 Dia. - 100 pcs.)
you need 3 packs, 240 in total
- amzn.to/2JtF42L
■ 1/4 - 20 hex bolts - amzn.to/2UgneU5
■ 1/4 - 20 washers - amzn.to/2KXoFST
■ Amana Carbide Non-marring Countersink Bit : amzn.to/2SGmJV8
■ Whiteside Spoilboard bit : amzn.to/2WSBN1q
■ Amana Spoilboard bit : amzn.to/2UP0tpC
■ Amana 1/4 upcut bit : amzn.to/2I37GRp
■ Milwaukee Drill : amzn.to/2I4wl8l
■ Dewalt Drill : amzn.to/2UQGirc
■ SuckIT Dust Boot : www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
■ Fein Turbo 1 vacuum : amzn.to/2BuMEW3
■ Carbide 3D Shapeoko : www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
Become a Patreon Member!
/ myerswoodshop
FILMING GEAR
■ Panasonic Lumix (main camera) : amzn.to/2BVA9nH
■ Rode Microphone : amzn.to/2HQxdcv
■ GoPro Hero 5 Black : amzn.to/2CMWi43
■ Neewer 62"/158cm Camera Tripod : amzn.to/2COtEQo
■ Neewer 31.5"/80cm Camera Track Dolly Slider Rail System : amzn.to/2BTKJv7
Find Me On The Internet:
■ Website : www.myerswoodshop.com
■ Instagram : / myerswoodshop
■ Facebook : / myerswoodshop
■ Etsy : www.etsy.com/shop/benmyerswood...
■ Pinterest : / myerswoodshop
■ Twitter : / benjmyers1
■ Blog : www.myerswoodshop.com/blog
■ Amazon Shop : www.amazon.com/shop/myerswood...
Myers Woodshop is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases on my links.
Thank you for making this video. Helped me out a lot. A lot of useful information for someone getting into CNC. I just got done making my XXL waste board. Took about 2 hours without messing with feed rate. I appreciate all your work and look forward to learning more from you on his CNC journey.
Thank you for this.. I was having so much trouble with clamping and in your other videos I was dreading taking my machine apart to do this so bad. I didn't realize till this video you did it on a separate board. I will be buying your files too!
I just ordered my Shapeoko XXL yesterday. I’m totally new to this craft and trying to soak up all of the tips and tricks before it arrives. This was so helpful that I’m likely going to be binge watching all of your videos now!! Thank you so much!!
glad i could help!
Ben - Great Video, thanks for the time and effort you put into educating all of us. Greatly appreciated.
You're welcome dale!, glad I can help!
I'm brand new to my shapeoko and I finished this today. The tediousness of putting in the t-nuts cannot be overstated. Thanks for the video and the plans!
Yep. That part sucks. Sooo bad
Great shape ok series of instructional videos. Had my XXL for about a year and half now, and am adding your threaded wasteboard clamps and edge guide. Thank you so much
great Alan! hope they work well for you.
Thanks Ben. The video and files are great. I downloaded the files and made my waste board today. Worked almost flawlessly. Only minor issue I had was my board was not perfectly flat, so some of the larger holes were a bit shallow. Not a big deal, just a little more encouragement needed when hammering them in lol. Next up is the fence and clamps. I've been using tape for my projects, which worked well, but looking forward to being able to clamp projects in place.
make sure to run the flattening program when you attach the wasteboard. it will help fix those shallow cuts later.
Thanks Ben for all of your videos and the file links! Just made the waste board. You take the guess work out for this technologically challenged Dust maker!
thanks joe!
AS ALWAYS Great Video. Just started using my machine this week. I did the star like you did and now I think I will do a new wasteboard. Thanks again for the great content.
Awesome! No problem!!
This CNC wasteboard is the best hold down solution for a my shapeoko, hands down!
Best how to instructional video I have ever seen. Thank you
Thanks! Glad they helped!
Thank you for making this. I just ran this today and it was awesome!!!
Glad you liked it!!
You are the bomb! Making the wasteboard as I type this. Put our Shapeoko XXL together last weekend. This is our first "project" and everything is going great. I'll be watching all your other videos over and over, I'm sure, to figure out this great new toy of ours. Thank you!
i'm glad it helps. tag me on social media so i can see what you do!
Myers Woodshop Rough day today. Huge learning curve for some “old” dogs. But we’ll get there. Thanks for all your videos. They are so informative, step by step. BUT that’s exactly what I need. 😁
Awesome video, thanks!!! Hoping I can adapt this for the Evo4.
I am still a newbie to CNC. I get my ideas from Pinterest and my feeble brain. You are not the first to show how to make a waste board like this, but I think by far this is the best video because you take the time to teach us and give links to every thing I will need. I am off to HomeDepot to get my MDF. I know this will be better than the rail system I have tried before. Thanks and take care.
Thanks Lonnie! Glad it helped!
I just finished your spoil board plan. I bought a new sheet of MDF and cut 3 spoil boards and machined all three. I made one change to secure the board to the original spoil board. I lined up all 3 new spoil boards after machining and put two dowels in two different holes. I then drilled a quarter inch hole in each of the 4 corners. I put the first spoil board on the original spoil board and jogged the router to the front and lined up the left corner. I then jogged to the other side and lined up again. I jogged back and forth until I got the spoil board lined up and then marked the original spoil board with the 1/4 inch drill bit at the four corner holes.. I then drilled a 3/8 hole and champered the hole and installed a 1/4-20 brass threaded inserts. I recessed the 4 corner holes to get the flat head 1/4-20 1.25" bolts down about a quarter inch. This way the new spoil boards will all mount in the same threaded inserts. When I run out of the 3 that I made I will use the last one to mark the new ones and the threaded inserts will last a long time. Good work on designing your spoil board. I will be making the fences and clamps next.
This was incredibly helpful especially since I just ordered the file from your Etsy I just followed the steps
glad it helped coty! Good luck on your wasteboard!
I tried them, I liked them, I bought them. Thanks for trusting me.
awesome!
Thank Ben for the great easy to understand tutorial. I got my XXL put together last night and made a couple of signs for the grandkids today. Using double sided tape for now. Waiting for the Suck-IT vacuum system to come in before I make the waste board.(25 day delivery delay). I was thinking it may be best to make the holes not quite as deep to save the original waste board and then clear the holes when flattening. Dave
Thanks David. that's exactly what I did here.
A very clear and helpful video. Very much appreciated. I plan order the files from Etsy to impart compensate for the service.
thanks george, i hope it helped!
good stuff man. cutting the board with your file was flawless, took a while lol. Finally got the t-nuts, off to home depot to get the bolts - as your link doesn't ship to Canada. Thanks for all your tutorials - I also bought the keyboard and it took like a minute to get working. Keep doing what you're doing, you're a huge help for us noobs.
Glad they helped! Thanks for the support!
Thanks Ben for all your help. I purchased your wasteboard, clamps and fence design from etsy. FYI the MDF from Lowes is horrible.
You're welcome Jennifer. Thanks for the support!
Thanks. Just ordered the waste board and clamp file.
thanks!
Love your videos! I just ordered my xxl yesterday. I'll be messaging you again. Lol
Thank's John! Don't forget to check out my blog too! Hit me up any time! www.myerswoodshop.com/blog
I just ordered mine Friday, 2 days ago. I have no knowledge of cnc so this is gonna be a fun learning experience. Over 70 and anxious , thanks John for the assistance.
I purchased the XL version of this from your Etsy store. Was thinking that, if the holes didn’t get all the way through but are pretty close, you could expose them by surfacing the top. You’re going to do that anyway.
working on this project for today's adventure in the shop.
Great video, you got all the information across very well. I gave your video a Thumbs up based on the fact you are wearing an "Astroneer" shirt and i fancy that game Xp. Thank for the informative video, i appreciate it.
I LOVE LOVE astroneer!
Great videos, I've subscribe, I just purchased an XL shapeoko and look forward to utilizing it with my projects.
Glad it helped bill!
This was a great video, made my life easier for sure.
glad i can help!
Love your videos I have my first CNC router on the way. I will be doing this waste board
Awesome! Thank you!
Dude...you are the man. This is such great info!
I appreciate that!
Hi Ben, thanks so much for all the videos. I bought your files from Etsy for the wasteboard for my Shapeoko XL and your cam clamps. I got a new sheet of MDF and cut it to size. I measured the thickness and noticed that it was slightly thinner than advertised. Here in the UK it is metric and advertised at 18 mm, however it varies slightly depending on where you measure it but is only fractions of a millimeter difference in places. I measured with digital calipers and converted to inches and modified the file to match my mdf. When I ran the file on my Shapeoko it started at the back left hand corner and milled out the large holes for the T nuts fine for the first 2 rows. After that it seemed to barely touch the surface of the board and the further it went it didn't actually even reach down to the board and was effectively cutting ;fresh air'. I know it is not a constant thickness across the board but the differences are only fractions of a millimeter. What am I doing wrong?
Your zero is off. Make sure it’s set to the proper corner you want to start at.
@@MyersWoodshop Thanks Ben. I'll give it another go.
@@MyersWoodshop Hi Ben, just for info. I found the reason for my problem. The belt tensioner at the bottom of the Z axis plate was loose which probably meant the belt was slipping intermittently. This caused the inconsistent Z height when machining out the large holes for the T nuts. I tightened everything up and had another go and it worked perfectly. Many thanks Ben for the wasteboard files. Now for the cam clamps. Keep up the great work. Best wishes from the UK.
I have to say, that the file is the best. I made a slight mod when cutting the board, I did not cut the pockets as I use a screw in thread insert. The advantage to me is if i destroy the board I can slip a 6 MM allen in the hole and remove them. love the setup, I purchased the file from ETSY. Found that the svg file does not contain the tool path..
svg files never contain tool paths. glad it helped!
Thank you for your videos!
you're welcome.
Ben, great video. I have a few suggestions that I did with mine you may find useful. I made the hole pattern 2x2 with every other row offset by an inch. It can help to give you more options for clamps. The other suggestion is to put the tnuts ( I used threaded inserts) in the base board then make spoil boards with the same pattern and use longer bolts. That way you never need to replace the threaded bits. It also lets me make specialty spoil boards for projects easily.
great idea about using longer bolts and not having to replace threaded bits!! thanks!
just purchased. happy to support.
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for this video. It's been almost 3 years since you made this and I'm pretty sure you'd be on your OneFinity by now and know if this wasteboard works well with it or maybe you even went a different route. Is there anyway you can do a video on how you did you wasteboard for your OneFinity? I just got mine together and am looking for some ideas and I use Easel.
Hello Ben. Nice work!
I got the file from Etsy.
Am I suppose to see two toolpaths on the program? I am only seeing the toolpath for the washer indentions.
How do I add the toolpath for the bolt through holes?
I wish i had watched this after i had bought the files instead of trying to cut it right away, it would have saved me a new bit and a waste board. Great video and hopefully i'll learn from my mistakes.
glad it helped!
I recently purchased a used Shapeoko that sat for a year doing nothing. I have noticed that the spools for the belts are a little rusty. Is this a problem? If so what would you suggest I do about it? My Other question is I noticed that the feed out of the power cord from your Dewalt 611 is to the left and the one I have is feeding out to the right. Does that matter at all?
thanks a lot Ben! Your the best!!
your welcome twigz
Love your channel! Huge help!! I am still building my cnc so in the mean time I’m trying to learn as much as I can! Can you make a video about bits and whats best to use also converting jpg to svg files
my blog has a bit post, www.myerswoodshop.com/blog/bits and use convertio.co to convert files.
Great Thumbnail and great video Ben. 😜😜😜
nick, if you didn't realize by now, I LOVE your pictures! :P
You make amazingly helpful videos! Thank you! I'm a newbie. Why did you make the circle cut pattern so the bit moves from one end to the other, skipping a bunch of circles? (instead of cutting circles in a row) Is it so the sawdust can get sucked away before cutting in the area again?
So the inserts you hammered in are on the bottom at the end of the video?
just got my shapeoko 3 xl, and i am very new to this, i've got your file for the xl and i am wondering if there is any reason why i cant use a 1/2 inch thick piece of MDF and just change my board thickness in the set up to .50? any reason this would not work? your video's are very informative, and look forward to watching them all
Will this board fit the onefinity or will it require modifications of the dimensions?
Thank you for such a detailed video. One question- to make this, do I need to buy the countersink bit or would it be possible to use a regular 201 bit?
just use the 201
Thank you Ben.
You helped me finally make a decision on my wasteboard. My Newcarve machine doesn’t have a metal lip at the front to push my wasteboard up against. I understand how important it is to be square - do you have a tip that would help me to ensure that it is square with nothing to push it against?
Many thanks
Adam
Cant you tension a rope or something between the Axis for a visual line.
Can you add the ruler and grid lines to this spoil board?
Can you give me the benefits of this hole pattern with threaded inserts design over the T Track design spoil board. I see benefits of each but can't decide which way to go.
Hi Ben! Thank you so much for this excellent tutorial. Just want to let you know how much I appreciate your effort and time teaching us newbies! Despite my best attempts I am still having issues with "shingling" of the wateboard while performing the flattening phase. Any suggestions? Looking forward to making the eccentric clamps and fence!
have you watched winston moys channel? he has a great video on tramming the machine. my first suggestion would be to reduce the step over.
@@MyersWoodshop Hi Ben! I have watched Winston's video a bizzilion times trying to figure out what I am missing on the tramming process.
The amount of correction I can get out of the machine after removing the powder coat around the screws is minimal compared to the error measurements I am getting with the dial indicator. I have confirmed the squareness in the XY. and seems that the Z is the main culprit.
Will try reducing the stepover % like you suggest.
When drilling 1/4" hold down holes, should I drill them 1/4" or just drill them the size of the insert? Not much slop factor and isn't less work as when spoil board is flipped to cut clearance for t nut I can adjust 1/4" inch hole to 3/8 or 5/16. I'm using nylon bolts to attach clamps if that matters. I've made so many mistakes that I would appreciate any inputs.
Great videos! Thanks for sharing all the tips and tricks. Looking to see what speeds your running when milling down your spoilboard and approximately how long it takes your XXL? Mine has been running for hours and looks like it has many more to go. Thus, I’m wondering how my setup compares to what you’re experiencing. Thanks!
100 ipm at 1 mm per pass. Should take 10 mins or so
Myers Woodshop Thanks!
Him Ben, I'm using 9mm threaded inserts on my board as I have alot of these on hand. My question relates to the layout of the wasteboard in Vetric (I happen to be using VCarve Pro 10.5). Is there a method to sellect all of the smaller holes, as an array, to do a simple hole size change without having to select them all one by one? Also, I would like to change the outer circle cut and simply change tools with a chamfer bit for my the tapered end on the inserts I'm using. I downloaded your templates for the Wasteboard, cam clamps, and fence. Thanks for all you do. Your efforts, guidance and expertise helped to convice me to move forward with the CNC. Best to you.
just did this. I scraped the first one I did because the counter sinking wasnt deep enough. deepened it for my second attempt but it still wasnt deep enough. Managed to remount my second attempt and made the holes even deeper (0.115 iirc). Got it done. I had a hard time getting the t nuts to stay (i only have the small/original size). What I did end up trying/doing was using a 6 inch #2 nail from home depot. Fits the hardware you link to well.
It does seem to bend the last couple of threads, however, the screws from your links went through fine and came out with no cross threading. (i used 1 to check half of the board)
Also, the file for the original size has the wrong settings (tool path zero, material, machine). Good in that it showed me to always check my file. Bad in that I listened to this video too many times and just took your word that I could just generate the gcode and be done with it.
Also, no clue why, but when i originally cut my first board, the bottom most row of 4 circles was cut off by about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. I slide the wasteboard all the way to the metal lip. I just slide them up by selecting them all and moving it two up arrows in carbide create.
Shapeoko 3 original/small size if that makes a difference.
hope this helps someone!!
first i've heard this. i'll double check the file.
Hi Ben, Thanks for the video! My jtech Laser Kit Arrives tomorrow ! So I will be reviewing your installation Video Again . Your promo code still works Thanks again . I need to install The beefier New Z axis Plate , Tram And tune The router , Make and flatten a new waste board , Make new hold downs And L bracket Then I'll be ready to go! Later, Murph By the way The discount For the promo code Doesn't actually calculate Until you pay , Then it works!
I'm glad it still works! That's awesome. Tag me on social so I can see what you make!
@@MyersWoodshop You Got It!
Dude, you’re my hero!!
but i don't even ware a cape! :P
Great video, thank you. Do you like using the allen wrench? Any reason for that over Phillips head (or anything else?). I’m thinking of trying the same with hex head so I can use a ratchet. Any downsides?
allen wrench is way eaiser.
Thanks, this video is super helpful! How much space do you have between your holes? And is there a reason you went with that distance?
2"
Thanks for all the video help. This was my first project since receiving my XXL a few days ago. Everything went fine until I did the leveling. The program quit about half way through with a Comm Error message. Had to reload the program and restart the job from the beginning, wasting a LOT of time watching the cutter go over the area that was already gone over. I looked, but didn't see a way to start the job closer to where it quit. Did I miss something? Hope I did.
Going to make the fence and clamps tomorrow. BTW, my wife grew up in Vilonia, just down the road from you.
yeah thats close! I would guess your usb's were set to sleep, or your computer sleeps after a while, check those settings.
Hey Ben, great video. Quick question. What speed would you recommend the carbide router be at?
I’ve been running around 3
Awesome video. Thank you this helped a lot. I have a question, you mentioned that the jog center is not actually center, but if I want to cut the max cut area how do I know where to set center? I hope that makes sense.
I will tag you in my board as soon as I get it installed :) waiting on amazon today for the 2nd bag of t-nuts
make an X on the board.
Hey Ben,
The 3xxl has a cutting area of 33”x33” according to Carbide3d.
Why did you go with 32”x32”? Just curious. I’m following your video and just wanted to check if I should go with 33” or 32”.
Is it the overhang that is 1” therefore only 32” is on the actual machine?
Thank you!
i just have a quick question please. What drill bit are you using in order to make the Pocket for the Tee Nut, then which drill bit for the Tee nut through hole? I am asking due to I have purchased your mega packet from Esty and I'm looking at the toolpaths; they are all saying to use End Mill .25. I do not quite see how the same drill bit can make two different size holes. Thank you for your time!
@35:32 mark - "You're almost done (points at T-Nuts), this sucked..." 😂 Another great video, Ben!
lol, well, it definitely does! :P
That was the worst part for me, hands down! 😂 I dread the day I run out of wasteboard and need to make a new one. I don't think I'll have the patience to salvage them.
Hey Ben, just assembled my XL watching your video's (some of them again) wonder why the cnc jumps around when cutting the larger inset first?
because Carbide Create is horribly inefficient.
When you put together your shapeoko did you have an issue getting the Gantry to square mine does not let me go flush on the right side and its pissing me off
yeah, but it's not going to matter. get it as close just be good with it.
Great video! I new to this. Why not make the waste board the full size of the cutting surface 33"x33"?
The shapeoko doesn't cut all the way to the back or the sides so there's no real reason to have it there, but it does come past the front, so that's why it comes past the stock wasteboard
Your videos are super helpful!
Why does the cut pattern bounce around to varies holes instead of moving to the very next hole? Wouldn’t going to the next closest hole lower the cut time?
its the 'smartness' of the program.
It’s you cool have this available. My xxl should be here in a day or two. I was looking forward to making that program myself. Just wondering, is it that hard to make the file. Thx
Edit:
After receiving my XXL I had a faulty part. Shapeoko was great helping me I’m up at 2:30 am to make this waste board before work. You are a lifesaver Thank you much.
Thanks for the video! I've watched it a couple times and not clear on something. My 32"x32" supplemental wasteboard is about 1 1/2" outside the bit range of the rear Y travel. I don't think it will matter for this file, but I'm thinking ahead for the surfacing. With my 1" Whiteside surfacing bit I'll still be almost an inch short of the bit's range. Any suggestions? Thanks
get a bigger bit or make the wasteboard smaller.
The link for the T nuts you used is no longer for sale. Do you have another link for T nuts you know work for this?
Hi Ben. I just got a Shapeoko 3 XXL recently and I new to CNC. I really find you videos very helpful and easy to follow. Keep up the great work.
I downloaded the wasteboard file and tried creating the wasteboard. The large t-nut holes came out right but when it went to the toolpatch for the the through holes, they did not drill all the way through. Actually, it barely drilled a hole at all. Just enough to make a mark without actually drilling the hole.
Any ideas about why the through holes would not have been drilled?
Yet another great video. Thankfully not very busy at work today! Will be purchasing this file for the XL tonight. But just to be sure....the original center line is measured from one side of waste board to the other? And since our machine is new we would just brad into the original waste board i assume. Already have a star etched in from your beginners video so like you said I'm not too concerned about hurting the waste board with brads haha. Thanks!!
Yeah, make an X across the board. That will give you center. Just brad the new waste board right to the original wasteboard. Then screw it in when you mount it when your done.
may i ask what size vacuum hose you have and where to get it? I want that size and will need like 15' but everything im seeing is 4" diameter. AWESOME VIDEO BTW!!!
Leslie, its the hose that comes with my vac. Here's the link to it: Fein Turbo 1 vacuum : amzn.to/2BuMEW3 its SUUUPER quiet compared to a shop vac. I love it!
Thank you for making this! I just cut your file my counter sinks progressively get shallower from the top left to bottom right, to the point where the bottom right holes didn't cut at all. The thickness of the MDF was consistent. Where do you think the problem could be? Surfacing the wasteboard will make them parallel and remove the issue, right? Additionally, not all my threaded inserts are completely flush, do you think that is an issue? Thank you!
thats why you run the flattening file after you mount the finished wasteboard.
what are the diameter of the holes to fit the t nuts. thanks for your time and this helpful video
i can't remember. you can check the file, it will tell you.
nice idea. I was thinking using a thread tap could probably work to, instead of t-nuts.
you could easily use threaded taps s well.
The threaded inserts can pull out of MDF if you tighten the screws too much. The TEE nuts cannot be pulled through. Many people complain about the X-Carve threaded insert board for the pullout reason. Plus threaded inserts are harder to get installed straight without the use of a drill press. Using a drill press to thread the inserts is problematic a couple of inches from the edges. Stick with the TEE nuts and you will have better results. @@MyersWoodshop
so im very new at this cnc when i bought my xxl i also bought m6x13mm threaded inserts my question is will they work with the g-code that you wrote or do i need to modify it please help
you'll need to modify the holes.
I have a question.
When you remove the spoilboard to flip it over how do you restore registration with the X and Y axis?
If the spoilboard is rotated, around the X1 hole as little as .5°, the X32 hole will be off by 0.244".
doesn't matter. it can just be eyeballed. its over sized so you wont go off the edges. once all the holes are cut you wont be cutting them from the other side anyways.
I have got to get one of these things...
yeah ya do!
Is there any place to get the file so I can edit the holes to fit a regular 1/4 inch nut instead of using the T nuts that you use
Yeah. All my files are on my etsy shop!
Www.etsy.com/shop/benmyerswoodshop
Such an informative video, thanks. I was wondering if I can make a 3/4 inch plywood wasteboard instead of an mdf. Is there anything wrong with that. Kindly let me know.
Yes, you can use plywood if you want, but be advised that it splinters quite a bit when cutting. (MDF cuts cleaner)
mdf is more forgiving and relatively stable. plywood would work still.
Really Enjoy your productions.Just received my Shapeoko XL last week. I am getting ready to make my wasteboard. My question is : What kind of T-nuts do you use? They come in inch or metric. I purchased a bunch of 1/4 X 20 but I noticed that the Suck-It clamps are provided with Metric cap screws. I didn't purchase the hardware but I am wondering if Inch or Metric would be the best way to go. and what source did you use for T-Nuts and cap screws?
theyre linked in the description to amazon.
Awesome tutorial Ben! I'm a complete newbie to CNC/Shapeoko (1 week) and I'm in the middle of making your wasteboard from your files I purchased as my first project! I'm curious, doesn't pulling the board all the way up against the front bracket make it difficult to surface it completly once you reach the bracket top after a few times resurfacing? Also, I was wondering what you thought about using t-nuts in the shapeoko bed as reusable mount points for future replacement wasteboards instead of screwing the wasteboard in? Thanks Ben!
tnuts in the bed would be a great idea, just more effort lining up. if you don't bring it all the way forward, you'll shorten the cutting area. yeah, it will eventually get in the way with the front rail after a lot of surfacing, but at that point its time to replace it.
So I saw you using the ryobi cordless nailers. Do you oil yours at all? Had mine for about a year, but sometimes i feel like they aren’t shooting very hard
I've never oiled mine. there's a dial that turns up the punch.
Hi Ben, I have been following your Shapeoko journey for a while. Since you have used the XCarve too, I am interested in your opinion. I currently make hand routed wood signs but am having trouble keeping up with orders and am considering a Shapeoko for some tasks, but not all. I was wondering if you had any regrets or things you wished it did? Thanks for all your great content!
absolutely no regrets. my dream would be a 4x8 cnc but that's not even in the same universe. :P
Just got my XXL up and running today, and I’m in the middle of cutting this. Looks great, but dang, it’s taking forever for the holes to drill. Mostly because CM seems unable to do 2 holes in a row that are next to each other.
Great file though, and hope to get a lot of use out of it in the future.
Yeah, cm is not the smartest when figuring out the logical way to cut tool paths
The Shapeoko is not the fastest machine out there but dollar for dollar is is a good value. If you want a fast machine you can spend $10-25000.00+. If you want to go fast drive a Corvette but to get groceries use your Shapeoko. @@MyersWoodshop
Carbide Create seems to have the same "Traveling Salesman" feature as Easel, dancing all over the place for what would appear to be straight sequential curse. Or is it more sensitive to the order objects wee added to the toolpath?
Nicely made project though, you didn't have any problems hammering the T-Nuts without a pilot hole in MDF?
what was the size of the grid pattern here? 2"? I know those two outside fence rows are different but I'm talking about the main 15x15 pattern. Also what was the offset used from the edges?
Yeah two
@@MyersWoodshop good night that's a lot of inserts!
240. My finger got a blister from pushing them in to start them. I’m delicate 😂😂
@@MyersWoodshop yeah I still haven't decided if I want a 2 in grid or 3 in. The number of inserts drops dramatically 😂😂😂
3” seemed to far, like when I had the t track. Just bite the bullet and do more than you think😂. Use my files and half the work is done for you.
Hello sir. Over the weekend I went to your Etsy account and bought all the waste board XL files and fence and clamp files but when I try to load them onto carbide motion nothing loads. In carbide create they show up on the drawings but no toolpaths are there. What am I doing wrong? Thank you for any help. Clay
its one of two things:
1) your loading the .svg and should be loading the .c2d
or
2) your running an older version of carbide create. You need version 316. Download the newest one.
I would like to know what additional items to order when i order the main machine. This will be my first venture with a CNC machine. I have been doing woodworking for quite a while Thank You Steve
Gonna depend on what you are using your machine for really. Blue painters tape and CA glue is a good start. Various cutting endmills 1/4 upcut/downcut square mills, and 30/60 degree v bits are good.
Your pretty handy Ben. I ordered a 24x48x0.75 piece of HDPE Black. Thinking about putting holes like yours in it. What do you think?
That’ll work just fine.
I'm new to CNC about to get my first one. I'm wondering why it doesn't cut in order and skips around? Is there a reason?
it's just how carbide create does toolpaths. Vectric is better. Get a www.onefinitycnc.com !
I just CNC that out but my little through holes aren’t really aligned in the middle of the big holes .do you know why this is .it’s really bothering me.? There not ovals though. Also I followed your tutorial but when I went to hammer in my little threaded inserts almost every single one was raised up a little bit even though I was hammering them really hard but I ended up fixing it by using a spade bit and just making the hole deeper.
the belts are loose or the eccentric nuts are loose.
I am flattening my waste board, and I can see the pattern left behind. It also skipped a small strip down the middle. Any thoughts?
If you can see lines after surfacing that is a good indication that your spindle is not trammed in. In other words the spindle isn't perpendicular to the waste board. I'm sure you can find a video on tramming your spindle. Best of luck to you.
I wonder if V-Carve Pro or Aspire would generate a more efficient tool path.
It absolutely would
Hi! Thanks for the video, I’m very new and gearing up to do my waste board this week but feeling like I’m missing something, why the 1/4 - 20 hex bolts and washers in the material list?? Thank you!
Those go through the clamps and L brackets into the threaded inserts in the wasteboard
Correct! You have all those holes, now you need something to put in them! 😂
I'm completely new to the whole CNC thing (really excited, I ordered my XXL yesterday). Thanks for the great content, I can tell I'll be a fan. A quick question, you have multiple bits listed...are they all necessary for this build (I noticed one bit alone for like $120). Was just curious, as I'm on a budget at this point. Thank you again!
The only bit you need for all my files is the #201 cutter that comes with the shapeoko. (which is a 1/4 upcut bit).
The other bits are for flattening the spoil board. This is something you will have to periodically and if you replace the spoil board. The Whiteside bit is adequate. If you are in production type shop the Amana may be a better buy. MDF is sawdust and glue. MDf dulls buts quicker than solid wood. CNC Routers do not drill well. As he stated in the video to drill the 1/4 holes you could use an 1/8 inch bit and it will plunge and go around and around to make a 1/4 inch hole. Using a smaller bit than the hole size gives the chips a place to go. If you use a 1/4 inch bit the chips will possibly clog and make them burn the hole. The bit is running at 7000-8000 RPM and heat will build up quickly if the chips do not have anywhere to go. These machines are not automatic in their operation and must be watched during cutting. You can run the same program over and over and one time the router will go crazy and start cutting where it is not supposed to. You need to keep your finger on the power switch when you run a new program. Sometimes the router will hit clamps or other obstacles you leave on the surface of the machine. @@MyersWoodshop