Very helpful. I removed the fiber insulation above the back screw. I was then able to unscrew the back screw. Now I am going to beat the old unit with a hammer to teach it a lesson!
I want to thank you so very much for making this video. I didn't have the money to fix my car and I needed the AC to work for a driving job I got and thanks to this video and one other video I was able to change it myself and save myself $800. I'm not homeless anymore!
So I got lucky again. Disconnected the negative battery terminal for five minutes. Reconnected battery. Turned ignition key to run position. Heard the gears turn. Outside temperature minus 10C/ 14F. Drove the car to warm up engine to normal temperature. Car heated up to 25C/ 77F. Air at floor vent 46C/ 114F. Air at dash vent 55C/ 137F. Thanks to the fellow who posted this reset information.
Have an 06 crown vic, and this worked perfectly. Went straight to the chisel, but this is the best video out there, to solve this problem. Thank you, for taking the time to make this for us.
Thank you for this video, helped a ton! I found that you can cut off the left tab if you can't get that unbolted with a pair of snips. Additionally, you can cut some tabs into the duct piece to help it slip back into position over the plenum. That saved me a lot of effort during the reinstall.
After viewing this video I got my heat going later on the same evening I watched it. I definitely owe you a big thanks! This saved me alot of cold commutes driving back and forth to work and also alot of money keeping a auto shop out of the picture
Great how to video! Helped me immensely. To get the screws on the actuator I taped a pencil to a 8mm closed end ratcheting wrench. Not fast, but it worked!!!
My blend door just broke this week and after watching your video I think I have the guts to do this repair myself. It seems you had the same issues as other DIY folks have run into ( just break that sucker out!) Wish me luck and by the way thanks so much for stating what size all the bolt and screw heads are, I hate walking back and forth to the work bench once I'm sitting in the car.
Thank you so much. It took me an hour and a half but I was able to successfully replace it. I appreciate your call outs on the bolt sizes. Thank you for this knowledge.
Hey there Kent I just came across your video thank you very much man🙏👌, I just had my complete air conditioning system down on my Mercury marauder, and about a week later it started blowing hot air to call Mike try to get the mechanic to come over several times but if it’s at the rain sunshine so thank you when I get back home I may have to start doing it myself👌👍👍
You said I should disconnect the negative battery terminal so nothing bad would happen. I disconnected it, and my dog ran away the next day.. Thumbs down.
Thank you for the video. It's the best one i found. My crown vic stays on heat. I turn the control to ac but heat comes out. So i got to go in dash and do what you did. Thanks again.
Thank you. a friend fixed it for summer... I am now ready for winter, I tried it this time, and felt the little bar underneath move...mix isnt good but defrost is going to work. That's plenty for now. :)
VERY helpful. I've been trying to turn the blend door but it will not budge. I used your guidance to get more access and pry the actuator off the blend door lever. I FINALLY got the heater turned off and I disconnected the wiring to the blend door actuator. The air has other expensive problems so I won't bother replacing the actuator.
Lisle Corp. (tools) makes a Blend Door Actuator Wrench for this job. Sells for about $55 and it enables you to reach ALL four bolts. Great compnay. Made in the U.S.A. too.
JUST AN FYI FOR ANYONE DOING THIS THEMSELVES... I JUST FINISHED MINE AND IT IS NOT NEARLY AS EASY AS ANYONE ON CZcams MAKES IT LOOK. YOU WILL NOTICE THEY CONVENIENTLY SKIP OVER THE HARD PARTS AND THEN VAGUELY EXPLAIN HOW THEY DID IT. BE WARNED!! I BROKE 3 SEPERATE ITEMS ON MY CAR DOING THIS MYSELF AND I WOULD CONSIDER MYSELF TO HAVE DECENT MECHANICAL SKILLS
You don't have decent skills . If you did, you wouldn't have went full caveman and broke stuff. I change these quite a bit. Only broke one box because I got impatient.
The difficulty of removing the bolts on the plenum, you mentioned. Other than saying it was difficult, you could have told us how you were able to get at them. Or is this like top secret
The white connector in the middle of the trim is for a clock. Ford wired all Panthers for every option, whether the option was ordered or not. They just deleted the thing it plugged into
You DON'T have to break or cut the tabs, you DON'T have to remove the dash and you DON'T have to buy any "special" tools. I managed to remove mine by taking all three screws out and replaced it putting all three screws back in, just like factory install. What you need is an 8mm ratcheting wrench and some fishing string...
The white electrical connector that you said you didn't know what it was all about on the first piece of trim you took off seems to me that if the crown Vic you are working on if that was a police car then that would be for the trunk release button. Police cars have a trunk release button there on the dash.
thanks! does it matter what position the wire 'connector' is in (not the electricity- but the actual wire that the door blend actuator pushes or pulls)?
So would that be my problem?I have 2011 marquis and the ac blows cold but I get no heat.. had the same problem last year but it started working out of nowhere now it’s not .
The engineers that designed this needs the shit kicked out of them. All that room to the right, but no, let's tuck it back behind this duct to the left, and then, we will put screws where nobody can get to them, and we will use a cheap part that we know will fail, long before the car is worn out.
Once you get the electrical connector off, is there any way to manually turn the door. Driving around today in extremely cold weather with extremely cold air coming out of the heater vent. So I decided to set the climate control to air conditioning with the temperature set to 18C. Nice warm air coming out of vent. Might make it through the winter in my 99 Mercury Grand Marquis LS. Recall having the same problem in the past. Read on the internet about disconnecting the battery for a short time and reconnecting. It worked. But I will bookmark this video for warmer weather. I did the scan and I believe it was 024 blend door failure. Thanks.
@@KentDiego I may have seen the same video where the guy leaves the vice grip pliers attached to the metal lever that turns the door. Another video where another fellow removes the radio and is able to move the lever. First I will disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnect. This has worked for me in the past. If not I install an electric heater in the car and remove the glove box, air bag, and vents after disconnecting battery. Looking forward to seeing that lever. Car has only 106000 km/ 67000 miles.
Did you have a problem lining up the foot on the bottom of acuator with damper rod while lining up the screw loops? Great video. Also I have rear seat ducts and that was a real problem. Do you know anything about rear seat ducting? Great video
To add to my below comment I have no trouble with the temperature when I turn the AC on the AC is cold at the vents when I turn the temperature up the AC vents blow out warm air but I cannot get anything to switch from the vents to the defroster or from the vents to the floor thank you for any help
hello! my grand marquis has intermittent temp. so its cold outside, heat goes on and off on and off, even with heat set to max, Coolant is full. please help
Another video had in comments to use a gear wrench for the one to the left and a tite reach wrench for the one in the back. I had heat and I replaced the heater core and I thought well I have heat so why replace this part while I have it apart. As soon as it was back together it failed. I feel dumb but if you have it apart replace this part.
@@angelonicassio7131 No I did a heater core replacement and I had the dash out. Blend door actuator worked at that point but I failed later. I am having a hard time replacing it and even a piece of my duct broke. If you have the dash out then replace this part whether it is working or not and use the best possible OEM part you can buy. RIght now I am living a nightmare trying to get this in
Is it possible with the radio removed to get access to the blend door to manually move it from hot to cold.? I watched another video of a someone with pliers manually changing it. Getting rid of this car with 370K miles this coming spring. I need it to produce heat this winter. I had the problem last year but after several clicks of the blend door it moved. So far no luck getting it to move back to heat.
I need some advice, please. I have a 2004 Grand Marquis with automatic temperature controls. My problem is that cold A/C blows out not only where it should, but also on my feet as well. NOTE: There is no clacking or other noise that would indicate a defective actuator. What else could be the problem? They door itself? Is there only ONE blend door? If there are more than one, where are they located?
The blend door in only hot/cold. The vents are controlled by the EATC. Uses vacuum only. Over time the O-rings shrink and leak. See my EATC repair video to fix this.
Hello I just attempted to do the same thing you did, only for me when I plugged the white connector into the blend door it moved all the way to ac but then would not move when the temperature selector was turned. Do you think my new part is bad too? Or is there an issue with the switch or a fuse?
Hello... Thank you very much for this video. It's was extremely helpful. Unfortunately, after I installed and plugged in the blend door actuator, the air is still not blowing through the main vents. I can see the device switch working as I fluctuate the thermostat from hot to cold, and it throws hot and cold air though the defrost vents as well as the floor vents, but not the main ones on the dashboard. Could you please advise? Thanks...
If not the EATC also could be the main vacuum line to EATC. This is a small plastic black line running from intake manifold to firewall at top to drivers side hole in firewall into passenger compartment. Had a rat chew a hole in mine. If your parking brake does not disengage in Drive then this hose is broken.
If the The Blower motor and fan cage are good. Then replace your blower motor resistor or blower or speed controller on the cylinder Head. You can always perform a self test on your head unit in 5 simple steps. 1:key on engine off 2: PRESS OFF & FLOOR SIMULTANEOUSLY THEN within 2 seconds press AUTOMATIC you should see it digitally loading in a circle. (Means test is working). Wait 60 seconds Step 4: write down any error codes it has displayed. STEP 5: press DEFROST TO END TEST. 024 - 025 are common errors for zone blower issues. 888 means test has found no malfunctions. Mine just gave an 024 error meaning a ITS BLEND DOOR FAULT
Is this the actuator that moves the air flow from the vent to the defroster or to the floor my problem is the air always comes out of the vent nothing comes out of the defroster or the floor only comes out the vent can anyone let me know if this is the actuator that's causing the problem
yeah I hooked up a new actuator and now my car is idling funny when I stop my Windows start to fog up and it starts to blow hot air and then it starts to overheat
I replaced the blender door exactly as shown but the new one doesn't work either. I have the electrical connector seated and the steel bar that attaches underneath moved freely before the new blend door actuator was installed. Also, I took the old actuator apart and the gear was stripped so I know it was bad. Do I have to put the duct work, air bag and glove box back inlace to make it work? I just ordered a vacuum gage to check the vacuum on the EATC. Any suggestions?
Did old unit with stripped gear make noise when switching hot/cold? That would verify everything else was working. I would guess that the new unit could be defective as I have had similar experiences with other parts..
@@KentDiego The old unit wouldn't switch from hot too cold. It would just run hot. Even with the EATC unit completely disconnected the blower just runs. You're right the new unit may be bad.
The air blend door actuator has no effect on the compressor. If that is not engaging then it is something else. Look around on some of the Ford forums for clues to what your problem is.
It took me 4 hours to do this. Save the Ford engineer that designed this for me. I want to strangle him with my bare hands after I heal all the missing skin on my hands. The front left bolt is a bitch. I unsnaped the top of the box and removed the top plate and the guts first. That gave me access to the other side bolt too. There were only 3 bolts in my 2006 grand marquis. Cut out the sound dampening insulation at the firewall to make room for a ratcheting box end 8mm wrench. I need got 2 bolts in this now. That front left bolt just isn't gonna happen for me.😐
1995 Grand Marquis is WORSE!!!! Even cutting away the foam leave Zero room for anything to get to the back bolts. Even if one could, there is no room to swing the wrench. I finally just said screw it and beat the crap out till the back bolts broke loose. I did use the chisel technique for the front bolt, worked like a charm, too bad couldn't get on in the rear. Part arrives tomorrow, one bolt should hold it tight, the door moves so easy that it should open and close it just fine with one bolt. I would like to take the engineer who designed this and beat him repeatedly in the balls with a Louisville slugger. Only a moron would put a consumable replaceable part in an area that is damned near impossible to get to without removing the entire dash. They couldn't ount the darn thing from the bottom like any sane person would? And to do it for nearly 20 years?
Removing the dashboard to fix this is something like 10 hour job. It take a special mechanic to do it correctly. Often things will never work right afterwards, like rattles and scratched parts.
@@KentDiego What other common problems do these cars have? I was looking at one with a digital dash. I am trying to see if its worth in purchasing one.
@@Romulan112 I posted three videos with my issues. Age will take it's toll on any car. I feel the Ford CV was above average in reliability. I sold mine at 220k miles and it still ran great.
You should take off the positive terminal cause if the negative one touches any of the metal body then the battery will be grounded again. Or take off both terminals altogther.
The risk is when disconnecting the battery terminals from the battery. If disconnecting the negative terminal first and the wrench touches the engine, the body, frame, etc., there is no risk of a direct short to ground. Doing so from the positive terminal is how you can end up exploding a battery, melting your wrench, or burning your car to the ground.
it only takes a couple of hours to remove dash repair actuator ...dont unerstand these hacks that think they are clever, a few clips and bolts wala dash is out of the way
Very helpful. I removed the fiber insulation above the back screw. I was then able to unscrew the back screw. Now I am going to beat the old unit with a hammer to teach it a lesson!
I want to thank you so very much for making this video. I didn't have the money to fix my car and I needed the AC to work for a driving job I got and thanks to this video and one other video I was able to change it myself and save myself $800. I'm not homeless anymore!
Great to hear!
So I got lucky again. Disconnected the negative battery terminal for five minutes. Reconnected battery. Turned ignition key to run position. Heard the gears turn. Outside temperature minus 10C/ 14F. Drove the car to warm up engine to normal temperature. Car heated up to 25C/ 77F.
Air at floor vent 46C/ 114F. Air at dash vent 55C/ 137F. Thanks to the fellow who posted this reset information.
Have an 06 crown vic, and this worked perfectly. Went straight to the chisel, but this is the best video out there, to solve this problem. Thank you, for taking the time to make this for us.
Thank you for this video, helped a ton! I found that you can cut off the left tab if you can't get that unbolted with a pair of snips. Additionally, you can cut some tabs into the duct piece to help it slip back into position over the plenum. That saved me a lot of effort during the reinstall.
Thanks for the video. It helped me alot in replacing the blend door actuator. Using a chisel worked great on that front left screw.
Kent, your solution was very creative. You solved a pain in the arse challenge that would have had me curling up and crying momma. Thanks mate.
VERY NICE SHORT CUT TURNED A 5 HOUR JOB INTO 1 HOUR
It took me a bit to trust myself but I did it! God bless you and your family abundantly. Thanks and peace!
After viewing this video I got my heat going later on the same evening I watched it. I definitely owe you a big thanks! This saved me alot of cold commutes driving back and forth to work and also alot of money keeping a auto shop out of the picture
Thank God for wobbly sockets and rachet wrenches. I done lots of interior work and had many special tools to help
Great how to video! Helped me immensely. To get the screws on the actuator I taped a pencil to a 8mm closed end ratcheting wrench. Not fast, but it worked!!!
Thank you so much. Just accomplished this. Couldn't have done it without your excellent instructions. I now have ac.
That connector is for a clock. If you go to a junkyard and find another trim piece with the clock in it you could plug it in and it will work.
Actually it's for the trunk pop button on police interceptors. Same wiring harness.
It's actually for the trunk release on police interceptors.
My blend door just broke this week and after watching your video I think I have the guts to do this repair myself. It seems you had the same issues as other DIY folks have run into ( just break that sucker out!) Wish me luck and by the way thanks so much for stating what size all the bolt and screw heads are, I hate walking back and forth to the work bench once I'm sitting in the car.
Thank you so much. It took me an hour and a half but I was able to successfully replace it. I appreciate your call outs on the bolt sizes. Thank you for this knowledge.
Hey there Kent I just came across your video thank you very much man🙏👌, I just had my complete air conditioning system down on my Mercury marauder, and about a week later it started blowing hot air to call Mike try to get the mechanic to come over several times but if it’s at the rain sunshine so thank you when I get back home I may have to start doing it myself👌👍👍
Wow, you did the job without dropping the dash. I've done three BDA's dropping the dash.
Post a video of how to remove the dash without wreaking it, I am sure many people would be interested.
@@KentDiego Not sure how dropping the dash would wreak it but if I was less careful, I could have wrecked it.
@@encinobalboa Every time I tried to remove a dash it did not go well.
You said I should disconnect the negative battery terminal so nothing bad would happen. I disconnected it, and my dog ran away the next day.. Thumbs down.
Thank you for the video. It's the best one i found. My crown vic stays on heat. I turn the control to ac but heat comes out. So i got to go in dash and do what you did. Thanks again.
Did it work? I have mine apart now
Thank you. a friend fixed it for summer... I am now ready for winter, I tried it this time, and felt the little bar underneath move...mix isnt good but defrost is going to work. That's plenty for now. :)
Great to hear!
Thanks for this video. Last two blend doors on my family's vics, I pulled the dash. Had this one done in about an hour ish. These dashes SUCK to pull.
The chisel was a great ideal. Thank you for this video!
Thank you for making this video my wife’s grand Marquis a/c went out and I have lost my shit trying to find out why It only blows hot
VERY helpful. I've been trying to turn the blend door but it will not budge. I used your guidance to get more access and pry the actuator off the blend door lever. I FINALLY got the heater turned off and I disconnected the wiring to the blend door actuator. The air has other expensive problems so I won't bother replacing the actuator.
Just replaced my Blend Door Actuator on my 96’ Crown Victoria. Without this video I don’t know what the hell I would’ve been doing lol
Saved me money and time. Took me about an hour to replace it. Great video. Best tip was using the chisel. Thank you.
Flexible finishing wood saw worked great in place of a chisel
Wow thanks, Great video. Got the information I needed in a short informative video. You the Man!!
That is the best way to fix it.
Thank you for the video. I have to replace mine, so this will make it easier. No way I was going to rip the dash out.
Looks very labor involved ???
Lisle Corp. (tools) makes a Blend Door Actuator Wrench for this job. Sells for about $55 and it enables you to reach ALL four bolts. Great compnay. Made in the U.S.A. too.
I looked and found the Lisle 64180 actuator wrench. Very interesting. Wish I had known but the cave man method worked.
I was able to cut the other front screw tab with a hacksaw blade. Wrapped the other end with tape ,used it as a handle.
JUST AN FYI FOR ANYONE DOING THIS THEMSELVES... I JUST FINISHED MINE AND IT IS NOT NEARLY AS EASY AS ANYONE ON CZcams MAKES IT LOOK. YOU WILL NOTICE THEY CONVENIENTLY SKIP OVER THE HARD PARTS AND THEN VAGUELY EXPLAIN HOW THEY DID IT. BE WARNED!! I BROKE 3 SEPERATE ITEMS ON MY CAR DOING THIS MYSELF AND I WOULD CONSIDER MYSELF TO HAVE DECENT MECHANICAL SKILLS
You don't have decent skills . If you did, you wouldn't have went full caveman and broke stuff. I change these quite a bit. Only broke one box because I got impatient.
@@jeremysales1232 notice the likes on my comment that agree with me... you sound dumb
@@jeremysales1232Thank you for the common sense and lack of all-caps.
Great job thanks for the video made the job a lot easier varied it was nice to save the repair money and do it myself!
The difficulty of removing the bolts on the plenum, you mentioned. Other than saying it was difficult, you could have told us how you were able to get at them. Or is this like top secret
The white connector is for the trunk release on P71 Vics. Likely a shared harness among the models.
I have this same problem and live in the Arizona desert... time to fix it
A cheap set of metric gear wrenches from Harbor Freight makes this job much easier.
Ratcheting wrenches, definitely. I also used some fishing string and a telescoping magnet along the way.
The white connector in the middle of the trim is for a clock. Ford wired all Panthers for every option, whether the option was ordered or not. They just deleted the thing it plugged into
Thank you great video!!!!
Cant you also take the radio out to have more room from the top after you take all that other stuff out,airbag... airduct??.
You DON'T have to break or cut the tabs, you DON'T have to remove the dash and you DON'T have to buy any "special" tools.
I managed to remove mine by taking all three screws out and replaced it putting all three screws back in, just like factory install.
What you need is an 8mm ratcheting wrench and some fishing string...
Thank you for making the video. Saved me leaning new words :( I'll be ordering the blender. Thanks again.
Very good video but I was wondering if you had a hard time lining up the damper rod with the foot on the actuator when you put it back in?
The white electrical connector that you said you didn't know what it was all about on the first piece of trim you took off seems to me that if the crown Vic you are working on if that was a police car then that would be for the trunk release button. Police cars have a trunk release button there on the dash.
Very good video thank you
Glad you liked it.
thanks! does it matter what position the wire 'connector' is in (not the electricity- but the actual wire that the door blend actuator pushes or pulls)?
So would that be my problem?I have 2011 marquis and the ac blows cold but I get no heat.. had the same problem last year but it started working out of nowhere now it’s not .
The engineers that designed this needs the shit kicked out of them. All that room to the right, but no, let's tuck it back behind this duct to the left, and then, we will put screws where nobody can get to them, and we will use a cheap part that we know will fail, long before the car is worn out.
So no pulling back the dash, right? That’s one thing that I’ve seen in other videos that I absolutely don’t want to do.
You forgot to mention that there is a built holding the duct together it’s behind it
The best way to fix it is with the easy fix blend door bypass at Ebay
Great vid 💯
Thanks
I just snuck a pair of vice grips through the glove box and onto the lever and i take them out every winter lol
Add vid i need help
So by removing the electrical connector, you can turn the blend door?
Once you get the electrical connector off, is there any way to manually turn the door.
Driving around today in extremely cold weather with extremely cold air coming out of the heater vent. So I decided to set the climate control to air conditioning with the temperature set to 18C. Nice warm air coming out of vent. Might make it through the winter in my 99 Mercury Grand Marquis LS. Recall having the same problem in the past. Read on the internet about disconnecting the battery for a short time and reconnecting. It worked. But I will bookmark this video for warmer weather. I did the scan and I believe it was 024 blend door failure. Thanks.
I saw a video where they took top of actuator off and would just reach in a turn flap rod each summer and winter,
@@KentDiego I may have seen the same video where the guy leaves the vice grip pliers attached to the metal lever that turns the door. Another video where another fellow removes the radio and is able to move the lever. First I will disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnect. This has worked for me in the past. If not I install an electric heater in the car and remove the glove box, air bag, and vents after disconnecting battery. Looking forward to seeing that lever. Car has only 106000 km/ 67000 miles.
Did you have a problem lining up the foot on the bottom of acuator with damper rod while lining up the screw loops? Great video. Also I have rear seat ducts and that was a real problem. Do you know anything about rear seat ducting? Great video
To add to my below comment I have no trouble with the temperature when I turn the AC on the AC is cold at the vents when I turn the temperature up the AC vents blow out warm air but I cannot get anything to switch from the vents to the defroster or from the vents to the floor thank you for any help
hello! my grand marquis has intermittent temp. so its cold outside, heat goes on and off on and off, even with heat set to max, Coolant is full. please help
So I'm worried about the plastic piece that turns the bar breaking it turns further than bar goes when it's on full heat
I’m screwed no heat , and I don’t think I’m able to do what u did , where can I take my car to be fixed ?
So, I replaced mine. But the “door” only moves a few centimeters still, so what would be causing it to still not work?
Another video had in comments to use a gear wrench for the one to the left and a tite reach wrench for the one in the back. I had heat and I replaced the heater core and I thought well I have heat so why replace this part while I have it apart. As soon as it was back together it failed. I feel dumb but if you have it apart replace this part.
Teacher Lynn you mean that you can access the blend door actuator with the blower motor off? That sounds easier to me!
@@angelonicassio7131 No I did a heater core replacement and I had the dash out. Blend door actuator worked at that point but I failed later. I am having a hard time replacing it and even a piece of my duct broke. If you have the dash out then replace this part whether it is working or not and use the best possible OEM part you can buy. RIght now I am living a nightmare trying to get this in
Is it possible with the radio removed to get access to the blend door to manually move it from hot to cold.? I watched another video of a someone with pliers manually changing it. Getting rid of this
car with 370K miles this coming spring. I need it to produce heat this winter. I had the problem last year but after several clicks of the blend door it moved. So far no luck getting it to move back to heat.
I do not think so. Just remove actuator and duct tape door lever.
I need some advice, please. I have a 2004 Grand Marquis with automatic temperature controls. My problem is that cold A/C blows out not only where it should, but also on my feet as well. NOTE: There is no clacking or other noise that would indicate a defective actuator. What else could be the problem? They door itself? Is there only ONE blend door? If there are more than one, where are they located?
The blend door in only hot/cold. The vents are controlled by the EATC. Uses vacuum only. Over time the O-rings shrink and leak. See my EATC repair video to fix this.
@@KentDiego Many thanks, that's exactly what I needed!
4:17 that’s not wires. That’s a vacuum line
Also this is about $4-500 repair job in a shop. Even more at a dealer
Hello I just attempted to do the same thing you did, only for me when I plugged the white connector into the blend door it moved all the way to ac but then would not move when the temperature selector was turned. Do you think my new part is bad too? Or is there an issue with the switch or a fuse?
Not sure but I always suspect the new part. Could be the EATC. You can get an EATC used and I also made an EATC repair video.
Hello... Thank you very much for this video. It's was extremely helpful. Unfortunately, after I installed and plugged in the blend door actuator, the air is still not blowing through the main vents. I can see the device switch working as I fluctuate the thermostat from hot to cold, and it throws hot and cold air though the defrost vents as well as the floor vents, but not the main ones on the dashboard. Could you please advise? Thanks...
See my EATC Repair video. Just need to replace O-rings in EATC to fix the vacuum leak that causes this.
If not the EATC also could be the main vacuum line to EATC. This is a small plastic black line running from intake manifold to firewall at top to drivers side hole in firewall into passenger compartment. Had a rat chew a hole in mine. If your parking brake does not disengage in Drive then this hose is broken.
Thank you very much... I will try this out.
If the The Blower motor and fan cage are good. Then replace your blower motor resistor or blower or speed controller on the cylinder Head. You can always perform a self test on your head unit in 5 simple steps.
1:key on engine off
2: PRESS OFF & FLOOR SIMULTANEOUSLY THEN within 2 seconds press AUTOMATIC you should see it digitally loading in a circle. (Means test is working). Wait 60 seconds
Step 4: write down any error codes it has displayed.
STEP 5: press DEFROST TO END TEST.
024 - 025 are common errors for zone blower issues. 888 means test has found no malfunctions.
Mine just gave an 024 error meaning a ITS BLEND DOOR FAULT
I had Hell with air duct it there was a screw on the back side of it where it slides over. But other than that went well
How did you manage to get that screw?
Its a 7/32, its a real pain
Is this the actuator that moves the air flow from the vent to the defroster or to the floor my problem is the air always comes out of the vent nothing comes out of the defroster or the floor only comes out the vent can anyone let me know if this is the actuator that's causing the problem
Great Information but I would properly cut out the insulation then reinstall with a little duck tape.
These things are installed before the dash is put in at the factory 🤣. Engineers hate mechanics apparently
Yes but the dealerships love the engineers.
So my crown vic is blowing cold air, but it dosnt like to stay on Vent, it keeps switching from defrost and to my feet. could this unit be the issue?
No. I had that too. See my EATC repair video for easy fix. Now my air blows out the correct vents.
@@KentDiego thank you!
yeah I hooked up a new actuator and now my car is idling funny when I stop my Windows start to fog up and it starts to blow hot air and then it starts to overheat
was there clicking sounds coming from the dash before the AC went out?
No clicking (from gear). The motor died.
I replaced the blender door exactly as shown but the new one doesn't work either. I have the electrical connector seated and the steel bar that attaches underneath moved freely before the new blend door actuator was installed. Also, I took the old actuator apart and the gear was stripped so I know it was bad. Do I have to put the duct work, air bag and glove box back inlace to make it work? I just ordered a vacuum gage to check the vacuum on the EATC. Any suggestions?
Did old unit with stripped gear make noise when switching hot/cold? That would verify everything else was working. I would guess that the new unit could be defective as I have had similar experiences with other parts..
@@KentDiego The old unit wouldn't switch from hot too cold. It would just run hot. Even with the EATC unit completely disconnected the blower just runs. You're right the new unit may be bad.
If I can see that bar that metal bar he's talkin about to move the vent, guess what there's going to be a little cable put on there
Could this be a reason my air compressor want come on ? Yes I’ve replaced it still doesn’t come on
The air blend door actuator has no effect on the compressor. If that is not engaging then it is something else. Look around on some of the Ford forums for clues to what your problem is.
It took me 4 hours to do this. Save the Ford engineer that designed this for me. I want to strangle him with my bare hands after I heal all the missing skin on my hands. The front left bolt is a bitch. I unsnaped the top of the box and removed the top plate and the guts first. That gave me access to the other side bolt too. There were only 3 bolts in my 2006 grand marquis. Cut out the sound dampening insulation at the firewall to make room for a ratcheting box end 8mm wrench. I need got 2 bolts in this now. That front left bolt just isn't gonna happen for me.😐
My 05 doesn’t take air through defrost mode it just takes the air out straight through the middle what can I do ?
It is the EATC. See my EATC repair video for possible fix.
never did say how it hooks up to the actuator ?????????????????????
How long did it take you to complete the job?
I was slow. Maybe 3 hours but I spent an hour trying to get one bolt before using a chisel. If I rushed could do it in an hour.
What year is your car
2003. I have several other repair videos for this car.
Is this similar on a 06?
Was it clicking?
Heard no noise for me. Just bad.
1995 Grand Marquis is WORSE!!!! Even cutting away the foam leave Zero room for anything to get to the back bolts. Even if one could, there is no room to swing the wrench. I finally just said screw it and beat the crap out till the back bolts broke loose. I did use the chisel technique for the front bolt, worked like a charm, too bad couldn't get on in the rear. Part arrives tomorrow, one bolt should hold it tight, the door moves so easy that it should open and close it just fine with one bolt.
I would like to take the engineer who designed this and beat him repeatedly in the balls with a Louisville slugger. Only a moron would put a consumable replaceable part in an area that is damned near impossible to get to without removing the entire dash. They couldn't ount the darn thing from the bottom like any sane person would? And to do it for nearly 20 years?
Also where did you buy that part?
Rockauto.com has them its a very cheap part too .
I was able to get it out and switch it out all through the glove box.
What did u take off besides the glove box
@@andreafodero7545 the trim that runs along the center of the dash
Why not just remove the dash board?
Removing the dashboard to fix this is something like 10 hour job. It take a special mechanic to do it correctly. Often things will never work right afterwards, like rattles and scratched parts.
@@KentDiego What other common problems do these cars have? I was looking at one with a digital dash. I am trying to see if its worth in purchasing one.
@@Romulan112 I posted three videos with my issues. Age will take it's toll on any car. I feel the Ford CV was above average in reliability. I sold mine at 220k miles and it still ran great.
Forge better idea
Disconnect the battery so you don't actuate the Air Bag and hurt yourself or your wallet by having to replace it.
You should take off the positive terminal cause if the negative one touches any of the metal body then the battery will be grounded again. Or take off both terminals altogther.
The risk is when disconnecting the battery terminals from the battery. If disconnecting the negative terminal first and the wrench touches the engine, the body, frame, etc., there is no risk of a direct short to ground. Doing so from the positive terminal is how you can end up exploding a battery, melting your wrench, or burning your car to the ground.
your dreaming
it only takes a couple of hours to remove dash repair actuator ...dont unerstand these hacks that think they are clever, a few clips and bolts wala dash is out of the way
Removing the dash has always been a disaster for me.
Kit at eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/254641116028
The listing is removed..