2001 JEEP CHEROKEE XJ 4.0 ENGINE SWAP - Part 1 Engine Pull
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2022
- Here is Part 1 of a straightforward 4.0 engine swap in a Jeep Cherokee XJ. I tried to do this as simply as possible, I didn't even disconnect the AC system, power steering system, or throttle body. Hope this vid helps you and I hope you enjoy it! #Jeep #Cherokee #XJ #engineswap
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Daniel 2.20 Blessed be the name of God forever and ever for All wisdom and power are His.
Hey, what’s up, guys? I hope you enjoyed another project. Please remember that this video product is meant for entertainment purposes only and intended for people of driving age, and that is not “made for kids”. Also Please Keep in mind I am not a professional and I have no professional training so don’t try this at home. If you decide to modify or fix your own vehicle please keep it legal, roadworthy, and most importantly SAFE. Thanks for watching and I’ll see you on the next project! ✌ - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Always wondered how you pull a 4.0! Thanks for these awesome videos Dan!
Thank you for watching!!
about time you make another viedo for your fans
Nice to hear someone pronouncing “radiator” correctly:)
Great Video Dan.
Looks like I will be rebuilding my Dana 35 rear Differential. It needs it. 202,000 miles 😂🇺🇸
See if you can pop in a C8.25!
Will look into it. 👍
@@myjeepwjarebuildpaulsteven7986 Good advice from Dan. Both of my XJs came with the Chrysler 8.25. Supposedly they are much more durable.
My 4.0 is running pretty good right now. 200,000+🤞
To get the top 2 bolts out of the bell housing try dropping the engine down using the engine crane and then you can reach over the top of the trans with a socket and extensions. Same method for putting them back. Works for me anyway
Thanks Ian maybe I'll try that next time! I appreciate your input!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, it was very helpful and informative.
Thanks so so much for this detailed and yet not a comedy sketch video.
Very professional. It will help me and save me money too. There are other videos removing an engine but they do it in 5x speed. You explained things clearly and didn't short cut the mistakes either. There's always gonna be problems. Knowing to plan for them is priceless dude. Thanks again.
What not to take off is as important as what to remove. Save money and time that way. Like A/C deal.
Thanks man! I try to keep it as authentic as possible.. Glad it was helpful! God bless
Good Vid Dan!
Thanks Rick!
Wow very informative information my man your a freak of nature with every move you make dano wonderful job thanks gonna help down the road love the content go Yankees!!! From da boogie down bronx buddy enjoy.
Thanks brother, best comment yet! LGY
Hey Dan - waiting so long for another entertaining video - worth to stay tuned !
Thanks for watching brother!
underrated channel!! Nice work!
I agree Dan's Project Dan H should have a huge subscriber list in the hundreds of thousands. Great channel and very helpful!
im getting check gage lite on my zj alternator drops off the scale
Pop in a new alt and get a new batt
Nice job Brother Dan.I hope the replacement motor is a good one.🤞🤞👍👍😁😁
Lol.. so far so good! 🤞
awesome !! thanks for the Video!!!
Glad you liked it!
Greetings from Odesa, Ukraine! Also have jeep 4.0 but ZJ. Love your channel
Greetings!!! Thank you for watching! Be safe
That 2001 color is a rare find!
It's beautiful!
Advice, do the E12 bolts on top 1st so they have less pressure on them, still took me an hour but definitely helped!
Solid tip man!
I've had a couple xjs with similar knocking one turned out to be loose flex plate bolts and the other had a broken broken flex plate. If you listen carefully it almost sounds like a double tap which could be wrist pin knock? That would be my guess if I couldn't find anything else. My experience with rod knock on 4.0s is a lot more violent sounding.
Good input.. I guess all the sounds depend on how badly the part is damaged.
Sounds like flex plate
Dang man done this 10 times -- next time you can grab the E12's with a 2ft extension and socket by removing the motor mounts and dropping the tcase down as far as it'll go. No custom tools. For the tq converter, just rotate the bolts all the way towards the driver side just before they get out of reach, and you can hit them with an impact. But reinstall them in a star pattern.
That's solid input bro! Thank you!
I was just about to post the same tip. Total game changer.
Check the FLYWHEEL and it really sounds like the motor was over revved rocking the crank shaft and how it the oil for the proof
When Tommy got the Jeep he did a fluid flush. The coolant and oil were brand new. The only thing to go by was the sound
Thank you for this video!
Why in the holy hell would you put 2E Torx fasteners at the top?(The manufacturer not you)
I would love to hear the explanation of why this was done.
We had to cut both of ours because we didn’t have that and we didn’t know that they were E Torx.
How do we get new ones, or can you just simply get hex flanged bolts to replace them?
😢
This reminds me, had gone to see oncologist a few months ago, came out no start. pulled test light from tool bag, had power to starter, took hammer a good whack and I'm on my way. ordered new starter and lo and behold, only one blot holding starter. someone RTV'd the other blot into transmission. Nice. So I got to install a heli-coil into my trans on top of putting in new starter. People, if you strip a bolt, fix it right. also finger start all your bolts, if it feels weird, STOP, clean threads and try again. That is all.
Yes, 100% thanks for the input! Be well friend 💪
@@ProjectDanH You as well. Looking forward to your next video, my friend.
I find it rather funny Dan. You start a 4.0L swap right as my 98 ZJ (the one that looks like General Geivous) is slated for the same. Mine the #6 cylinder has a breathing problem. 35PSI of compression. I am swapping out both motor and trans with a 2002 WJ powerplant even the NP242 transfercase. Good luck with your endeavour.
Not sure a WJ motor will fit in a ZJ.. please double check the location of the water pump , AC, alternator and belt tensioner.
@@ProjectDanH WJ is not a dirrect bolt-in, correct. Using the WJ as a block donor. I will be putting all the ZJ stuff on it when it goes in. (NOTHING will work)
thanks, just trying to figger out how many bolts in the bell housing. My e sockets are probably too deep 😞
The one bolt was chewed up too much to get an E12 on, but I got it broken loose with an E14 socket. Good luck
Thank you for this video! I have this same noise but not as loud and only on cold starts, doesn't follow RPMs and goes away after driving around. Have you experienced something like this?
Sounds like yours could be just lifter tick.. try some oil with zinc in it or use a zddp additive. Hopefully that will do the trick
new sub here.. i own an xj and a zj ... OlllllllO forever jeep
Thanks for the sub! Right on brother!!
I am going to do this in the future. Except my 1999 4.0 is running fine. Just switching it for a Newcomer 4.6 stroker. I have to rebuild a transmission to put behind it. The original transmission with 224,000 miles wouldn't live long behind an engine with over 300hp.
That's great! Keith builds one hell of an engine 👍
Hey Dan! Great video! Was wondering. I know you had some xj special service police instrument clusters at one time.. I’m looking for one for my 99 TJ. I called FN jeep and even they don’t have one. Do ya have one for sale or any leads on any? Thanks! Keep up the awesome content!
Thanks James! I don't have any extra SSP clusters at the moment. They're super hard to find these days.
Hey Dan! May not be a rod knock. It may be the main bearing saddle brace. I had a 99 Grand Cherokee with a similar knock. Couldn't nail it down. Good oil pressure and no power loss. Wasn't a timing chain or gear. Then I saw a video on rear main seal replacement. The newer 4.0L have this Brace that bolts on the main bearing caps. Maybe this helps. If your oil pressure is good and power is good, this could be the noise. God bless and stay well.
Great input brother! Thanks for sharing!
@@ProjectDanH Are you planning a tear down to see what went wrong? You didn't mention whether it still had oil pressure. I could hear the knock but still curious. Great job. I'm thankful I have the use of a lift. Getting to old to crawl under them anymore.
@@projectbumblejeep4190 I really want to tear it down.. I'll probably get to it next summer. Lol
Dan, do you still have The General? I have 96 zj limited with the gold trim, what would be the best way to paint the rims? I waothe gold insets painted black and polish the alloy.
The Grievous will be sold next week! I just scuffed up the rims and painted it all hammered black rustoleam from home depot.
Came just to see if others wanted to cut exhaust like me 😂
Dan, “what you could do, if you had a lift? “ ✅
Please send one and wel find out!
😂👍🇺🇸
I have a lift, makes life easier, but doesn't help with motivation... 1 broken rusty bolt and it's "fuck you jeep, i'll see you next week" :P
Would it be possible or worth it to just replace the crankshaft and new rod bearings. ???
Assuming that the compression is still good of course…
Sure, but, I had a new engine ready to go at Tommys request. lol
Crispy Dan H quality.
Lol! Thanks G!
Is that XJ named Christine? "You keep a knockin' but you can't come in..."
🤣🤣🤣 good one! She is unnamed yet.. that could be a winner!
its times like this where you gotta use our lift. those e12s are THE WORST!!
The worst bro!
My xj is making the same sound
Oh no!
Do you have a overhead console wiring harness for a 98 that you might sell?
Sorry, I do not
Will you be running new ac lines? Interested
Nope.. ac was left intact
all good but wow. Those engines come out real easy with leaving the core support, you don't even have to take the evap coil off, just pull the radiator. I've done it several times over the years. i just did my '90 nov '20 and my '99 july 21. Again, core support in place. Just saying this so you can avoid doing a lot more work than you need to.
My hoist is short so I wouldn't have been able to get over the core support of this lifted XJ
@@ProjectDanH bummer, my lift will go 97inches and with a balancer bolted short to engine as possible I can get engine out with 4inch lift .....just clears
@@deanwattles8722 nice brother!
I hope this is easier on a grand Cherokee
Lol... Same!
In the process of doing this right now... I took one look at those top bell housing bolts - no idea they were even E12s so that's useful - and my first thought was to remove the head to get better access (i need to swap my head onto the new block anyway). Any disadvantage to doing that? seems like there would be more room to get at those bolts...
Sure!, you could! if you remove the head in the jeep you'll have to leave in the drivers side head bolt in the head... also tape it up so it doesn't scratch the block... you'll see when you get there, lol. also you can lower the trans cross member for more clearance.
@@ProjectDanH yeah, ive swapped the 0331 head before with a tupy, i guess lowering the trans might be easier since i have to install the engine anyway - and id rather do it the same way... cant wait to break those crossmember bolts! 🤣
I have a 2001 with 322k miles and I have piston slap. What engine blocks are a straight swap?
Basically any 97-01. Just make sure you keep the right head
The right head?
tbh couldn't you just drop the trans cross member and tilt the trans down some that's what i usually do on alot of chevy vehicles 🤣
lol, yea, probly
were part 2
In the editing room
What movie is that clip from, the "yeauh"?
Lol.. Friday
@@ProjectDanH Haha, there it is. Thanks boss.
what causes a 4.0 to get rod knock? poor oil routine by previous owner?
how long could it limp along like that before destruction? i have a slight tick in mine but never know exactly the cause and i really hope its not this.
You should hear how bad my knocking is lol!! The owner before me drove it with no oil for a couple of miles and started a small knock. Over the years it has gotten louder and louder but still runs lol I am putting a new motor in next month as I can't take the knocking anymore lol But so far for me it's been a couple of years with a knock, never left me stranded. Once I pull the old motor I'll find out what the cause of the knock was.
@@kafilkavich707 might be worth looking if it's fixable in engine before an engine swap? Worst can be is confirm you need to swap.
Ticking is a common problem when new oil is used on engines with flat tappet lifter. we need zinc in our oil, it prevents lifter/cam wear. Knocking happens when the bearings wear, usually caused by poor or no oil maintenance. Try Ristlone oil treatment and Rotella oil.
@@ProjectDanH Hey Project Dan, I'm getting ready to put my new motor in and have a good amount of money invested into it. I do have Harlem Rockers installed as well. I should be fine to run Rotella T4 10w30 with Mopar filter correct? I just want to stick with one oil and filter brand. My current motor has had over 10 different kinds of oil's in it which is probably why the knocking has gotten worse lol
@@ProjectDanH thanks Dan. Mine was a bit of a barn find and the oil was horrible. It's been circa 5 oil changes in 2500 miles and finally clean. Always aimed for oil that meets API SL rather than anything newer as an indication of zinc content etc and used some moly additives top for extra protection. In euro API SL usually means a 10w40, I've even found a 5W50 API SL race oil but think my pressures don't need that ...yet. If it's the flat tappets I hear then I fear the damage/wear is done so I can just hopefully keep it at bay with good oil routines, just hope it's not at the rod as only so much oil can hold off there.
flex plate… pressure plate is part of a clutch
Pardon me.. I put a clutch on my ax15 the same week. Too many parts in my head
@@ProjectDanH it’s all good buddy! we all have those days
Seems like it would have been easier to pull the engine with the transmission attached
Nah, I don't like detaching the transfer case if I don't have to.
@@ProjectDanH Is it possible to remove it as complete unit (Engine and trans ?) Would they have gone into the vehicle complete at the Factory ? Just Asking Dan. A brilliant video. Those Bellfhousing bolts are horrible to get to in situ.....
How many miles on this 4.0? Or did I miss that?
A rough 150k
That doesn't seem like a lot of miles
Just me or did the oil look watery?
Nah, the oil was brand new
This engine and the famous heavy metal washing machine should record some hits.
Lol!!
Can 2000 xj Cherokee 4.0 be swapped with lower engine capacity?
Is it possible?
Lower engine capacity? not sure what that means...
How many miles on the engine on this 2001? Also, what is the most legitimate miles logged that you have ever witnessed on on an original 4.0 before needing a rebuild? I've heard 500k but that is heresy, what say you for any 4.0L achieving anything close to that mileage on the road as a daily? Reason I ask is I have a reasonable decent cared for 1995 4.0 L ZJ grand cherokee Laredo with only 242k on the odometer and am trying to save the engine which has no rod knock currently, runs really well, and barely smokes, only at start up and runs well overall, no compression check verified yet but am hoping for 300-320k before rebuild. Dan do you have any tips, tricks to keep it going as long as possible?
I believe this XJ had 150k on it. Probably abused by the previous owner. Personally the longest stretch of milage I put on an XJ was about 150k.., from 100k to 250k over a 10 year period
I appreciate your reply. What I mean is people claim the 4.0L inline 6 cylinder to be a near bulletproof engine but nobody has ever sent a bullet thru it? I know of quite a few engines by other vehicle manufacturers that will last 250k. Is there any proof of a 500k, 400k, 350k well running engine? You have owned XJs for 20 years, You know a lot of people. Put the word out to learn about the longest running, 4.0L. Who has it, what was it in. It would make a great episode for your channel?
@@bombdiggitydave3881 I like it! Will do!
@@bombdiggitydave3881 only reason I wish my speedo still worked. With the estimated daily driving I was doing I would have over 500kms. Off the road at the moment. Leaf hanger was coming through the floor.
I have one with 322k with piston slap. Drives fine no heat issues and the noise goes away when at operating temp. I need to swap it sooner than later. Just don’t know what blocks fit. I put a Clearwater head.
Wait, the 4.0 guys say this motor is bullet proof lmao.
Unless the Rod knocks
Lol.. previous owner abuse!
I have a 98 V8 lol.
What is this torque wrench that you speak of?....lmfao.
🤣