đ”Mite treatments! The Good, the Bad, & the sometimes Ugly!
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 17. 08. 2019
- Mite treatments pros and cons what can hurt you bees and what doesn't really work at all.
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#Beekeeping #Beekeeper #Honeybee - ZĂĄbava
Thank you Kamon. This helps us newbees that are searching for answers to keep their bees alive.
Dear Kamon Thank you for your time making your very educating vids..... I saw you hate varroa nearly as much as me! I though it fun to say what a fantastic out come re the use of 1 to 1 oxalic acid and glycerine strips.
Fantastic = 50 + mite drop a day to none after 5 weeks.... Ok I did replace two after seeing them quite dry and one quite chewed.
The wicked old mites are dead. As of 02 June 2022. The Buckfast colony is now coming on strong and is now a joy to watch them.
Thanks for the kind remarks and for watching Michael! Kill some of those devils for me!
Great Info and advice. thought you did a great job trying to cover all the options fairly
Perfect video! Thanks for the explanations! â€ïžđ
Timely video, as I am researching exactly these options. Thank You for your excellent presentation!
i use the ProVap 110 and it works great for me!!! Thanks for all your videos!! Very very helpful!
I use the mite away strips. I really like them but your right about using it in the correct temps. I use them in early spring and again in the fall. In between those I use a fogger with either mineral oil or OA.
Great information Kamon. I am becoming a fan of Apivar. Using it to treat my hives right now. Will be curious to see how they fare. If they do better it will be worth the cost!
Great information and video. I was able to treat mite away strips the last week of July. Had a week of low 80's.
I know, it was so nice!
Amitraz was used to dip dogs to treat for Demodectic mites for years, until newer , less toxic mitacides came along. And yes it was also used in a dog collar for ticks.
Morning Covfefe and one of Kamons videos!
Woohoo!
Great video!
Very good information Kamon. Thank you very much.
thanks so much for a great informative video
Again another great vid, Kamon! Letting us know what you do but giving us options. Ironically your way is the way I have gone too.
Jennifer Berry from U of Georgia, said at EAS this year that the shop towel method did not work for them in testing in Georgia. She feels it is do to the humidity in the eastern states. Not sure how your humidity is in Tenn. I tried in in PA last year some colonies had good mite drop and others did not. Geez don't tell the government I did that. I am doing vaporization every 4-5 days since Aug 8. I have the calender marked out in 4-5 intervals, cause we have had so much rain lately (so one of the two days works) , at least it is close to a good schedule. Good videos, you have.
Didmy mite checks today expecting to need to treat. Counts were excellent. Most wer 1 mite/300 bees, a couple ar zero. Iâm happy but not getting ahead of myself, will do another round of samples mid-Sept. I was not vigilant last year and lost my entire (small) yard. Not going to repeat this year.
Did an oxalic acid treatment when I got my packages in April, a Formic Pro treatment in early July. Went with all Saskatraz this year, but donât habe a control to check against.
Lesson: control your mites!
sounds like a plan to me!!
Great video....if you want detailed information on mite treatments google Honeybee Health Coalition
Thanks. The honeybee health coalition is a great resource.
I did a mite wash today - I had 1 in one hive and 3 in another.
Thanks for all the information you put out.
Thanks !!
I just finished treating with FormicPro. I wish I had this information be for I used it. I went with option #2 (1 strip for 10 day them remove and replace with another strip for 10 days). This is my first year beekeeping and I have two hives.The FormicPro killed a lot of bees the first day of treatment which I guess is normal. I'm pretty sure that it killed the Queen in one hive. The bees are so aggressive in that one hive I can't do a full inspection right now. The local bee shop recommended this product and said to start treatment on July 25th. It did get warm the first few days after putting it in, close to 90. I don't think I will use it again. I will use Apivar in the fall after my honey super come off. BE VERY CARFUL WITH THE FORMICPRO!!!
Yeah sorry about that. I meant to have this out a month or more ago. My first experience with formic I tried it on 40 colonies. The brood was hit pretty hard and I had many colonies superseding. Not cool.
@@kamonreynolds It's not your fault. I really appreciate all the time and effort you put into your videos. It must be a lot of work being a full time Beekeeper and making a new video everyday almost. Even though I'm in Massachusetts there is a ton of good info in your videos. I enjoy the Facebook group as well. Thanks again for all the hard work!
@@tedjackson5272 Im from MA as well and just started. Where abouts are you located and what shop do you go to if you don't mind me asking.
Thank you for sharing this information. 2020 was my first year beekeeping and I didn't get a chance to treat my hives before winter set in and then the weather got to bad for me to be get out. They obsconded on me. Hopefully this these year will be better.
Thank you
Do you suggest we remove honey supers - do the OAV treatment then replace super or just wait til fall flow is over and all honey supers are off and then start the treatment Thanks
Hey Kamon, when its early spring, and you notice mites (i need to do an alcohol wash, i could just physically see mites on bees of my weaker colonies) while bees are brooding up, what treatment do you typically use? i live in central Tx, and we are pushing 80s right now.
I have the JohnNo vaporizer it works great. Great video as always
Good info, thanks
great video. i have been beekeeping for approx 5 years, i have always used OA and apivar, i have tried formic pro twice in the last couple of years, not a fan of it. i think it causes me queen loss. i am thinking of purchasing the pro vap 110, its expensive!! especially for someone that has only a few hives.
I had a nuc abscond after oxalic vaporizer, they went from booming to mite overload, to downhill in a couple weeks, so I laid it to em,they left..guess they showed me lol
Well that stinks. What dose did you use on the nuc?
@@danskisbees7348 it was actually a 5 over 5 frame I used a gram,and then something for ,next evening walked by no activity, opened nothing but open brood and few hatched bees,they were stressed and treatment was tipping point,MY fault..
@@badassbees3680 You had no way of knowing, you were trying to help them, I would have done the same thing. That shouldn't happen again because you're on top of it now.
They died anyway . They just saved time
Thank you Kamon, you help me so much!!!! Crazy cat man!
You mentioned using Apivar and oxalic acid in combination. How would that be done? Alternating? "X" number of weeks apart?
Buzz buzz, have a good one. Take care..
Hey Kamon, not to agree or disagree, just adding to the "conversation" in general. Comb rotation as an orthodoxy is preached by beekeepers that use the synthetic miticides in their operations. There is solid scientific research that shows that synthetics or their breakdown products accumulate in brood comb (specifically drone comb), and that accumulation can affect brood (drone) quality. So breeders have to take this into consideration when many healthy drones with lots of viable sperm is important. This is separate from "virus and disease" accumulating in the comb. In reality, comb rotation is also preached by producers because its an inadvertent measure of nuc sales, ergo the revenue from selling frames (rotate more combs --> sell more nucs --> make more money).
You mentioned inspecting when temps get up to â40 somethingâ. I always read 50 was the magic number. Now I know dogma can be confusing. What temps do you consider safe?
I don't pull frames but I pop lids in freezing temps if I need to.
Not gonna lie, I have never treated for mites and had hives for 5 years until last year (2020) and lost them all to SHB and indirectly mites! I've go 2 packages of bees coming in a week and trying to decide on a treatment and when to treat. I just ordered Mite Awa Quick strips (prior to watching this video). Can I go ahead and put them on when I get the bees, before it's gets scorching hot? I'm in Alabama. Thanks
Great review and presentation . Thx
I have an involved question. It involves cycling out old combs and ApiGuard. Using all deeps allows me to cycle old brood combs up through the boxes. If I used ApiGuard the previous years, will that affect using the old brood combs for honey as I cycle them out?
Just curious.
Apiguard and oav are my favorites.
I could not agree with you more. I personally use formic pro in the spring. Oxalic Acid Vap in the summer during brood breaks. Apivar in the fall followed up by another round of Oxalic Acid in late fall early winter. I have very good winter survival rates I believe is due to this routine.
Sounds like the mites are never allowed to damage the colony! Winner of a plan!
@@kamonreynolds
I started going this a couple years ago. I came from an Agricultural background and we used an IPM program to help deal with pests in green houses and to help prevent resistance to chemicals. One big part I forgot to mention. I don't treat unless the the mite thresh holds are hit. So for example, during the summer if the mite counts are low and remain low. I don't treat with oxalic acid.
Kamon I watched the "insane mite load" and thank you for the lesson on how to use that alcohol wash basket. I have 3 hives. Following the video i went out and tested one hive and found a whopping 1 mite. Question: do I bother treating for 1 mite? Answer: yes. Another question would have been do I bother treating the other hives. Here's the answer: Today I finally got out and tested the second hive before it started to rain. 15 mites. Using the 1/2 cup method does this equate to 5% of my bees have mites in this colony?
Hi Kamon, I've never treated my bees but am considering this spring and need your input. I have MAQS. What do you think about treating now? I'm in central Alabama and the high temps for the next week are between 66 and 81. My queen is just now starting to lay but still not overloaded. I only have 1 deep box going right now, with sugar syrup added about every 5 days.
Hey Kamon, what do you think about Apivar in July/August (Georgia), 5 rounds of OA vapor in December, and the ApiGuard in spring before the honey flow?
I have been wondering the same - would not an annual rotation be effective? I have been scouring the web for anything that says the proximity of time to lapse between uses of the three. So far all I have found is that Apigaurd is not to be use conjunctively with any other mite treatment and that OA boots the effectiveness of formic. Curious as to what y'all think on this
Hello. if I apply oxalic acid vaporization in the spring in new colonies, with new queens, where the brood has not yet been sealed, is there any problem for the young queens?
Thanks
Always follow the label!
Beginner bee keepers here. Do people remove the queen during these treatments?
Do the queens get affected by mites? (I assume they do)
Boat Man hi. Iâve never removed a Queen. Have used apiguard and OA w/success.
Hello Boat Man. No sir, we don't remove the queens. The queen usually doesn't have mites because the bees are constantly grooming her.
If you're wanting to use oxalic acid but not buy such an expensive tool as the provap 110 there's a guy here in America that makes a sort of DIY version that he sells. It's worked really well for me so far. It's Johnos EasyVap.
being old I don't have a lot of money, so I don't multiple type mite kill. I use oxalic acid from a fogger and my bees are doing very well. Last winter I lost my best honey producer to these horrible mites. Now no nosema and no viruses. I hit them once a week for 3 times in the spring then again at the end of august. Numbers are really good.
I agree on the ones you talked about first.
UoG claims thymol in powder sugar in a tray is very effective. Wish I had more info on their research.
I used Apivar this spring to kill mites in my new package colonies. I found no change in the mite levels at the conclusion of 40 days. I'm now using Apiguard to knock them down for the fall. I'll see how Apiguard deals with my levels in another week. If not either formic acid or Oxalic acid will be next. I know with brood oxalic acid isn't effective, but I"ve had issues with formic acid in the past.
I'm guessing different colonies will give different results, but a few months back I had a developing infestation of those critters and I gave them two full strength doses of Apiguard...haven't seen hide nor hair of 'em since. "Your results may vary"...let's hope it works for ya!
@@user-md4di6yg2p used apivar for winter treatment in south texas.... Murdered the mites..... All colonies made it through the winter.
Thanks
High I have a few hives that have loads of bees could I put them through winter with 3 deep boxes or should I force them down to double deeps ?
If they need reducing I would do it in October myself in TN.
I was thinking would it be normal to reduce all the bees from a 3 deep to a double deep ?
7:52 ...and he chucks it. too funny good sir. thanks again for all the great information you keep bring to us.
Do you have a video in what you prefer to use? I was thinking itâs the 110 & oxy but Iâm confused after seeing this.
I was looking into the easy vap...but again now Iâm confused...
Hi Kamon, can you please also include a link to purchase them?
greetings from Australia.
We have given up on eliminating Varoa mites and now the country is a buzz with joining the rest of the world and living with them. Makes a change from killing thousands of hives and exclusion zones etc.
The new word around the bee people is Integrated Pest Management. : trying to use all the lessons from around the world.
Oxalic acid seems to be down the approval list somehow. Partly because it is supposed to be a more dangerous chemical for the bee keeper to use correctly.
Could you tell me just how you guys prep yourselves.??? Is it the full on approach of gas mask, chem overalls etc or just a bit of common sense including avoiding as much as possible the smoke? Also, is Formic acid a hassle like OA?
Wow, you left off a huge factor. Apivar will take 8 weeks of your spring/summer. If you discovered your problem too late in the spring, you should use Formic Pro.
I have been Keeping an eye on my bees and all was good tell I put Apiguard on them on Sept 7. Queen's stop laying for about 3 weeks. lost one hive last week. I have been feeding them sugar water on a main feeder about 100 feet from the hives. 2 hives are over loaded and doing great, but 8 are not doing good. do you have any suggestions?
Question is it ok to leave your honey supers on when treating with oxalic acid, I had a winter freeze out and have almost 5 gallons of honey left from the honey supers and one hive body
Not in the US, Supers are supposed to be removed.
@@ToBeeOrNotToBeHoney Thanks, was what i was thinking appreciate the confirmation
Any opinion on treating with âmineral oil plus oil of wintergreenâ fogging treatments in between your spring and fall OA/apivar treatments?
Hey kam what do you think about your sasqatraz queen ? how good of a job are they doing ? Iâm have only VSH bees in my Apiary thought that the Sasqatraz would be good for gene diversity I have two had them only a month they were kinda slow to get started laying but are laying now . I live in Mississippi.
They have been average nothing to really write home about.
Kamon Reynolds - Tennessee's Bees thanks
If you get a chance raise a few it is amazing how good your own queens do and then you really can pick from the ones that survive, thrive, and make that liquid gold.
Where did the mites come from and did they adapt to feeding on bees or have they always been a bee pest?
They jumped from the asian bee. They have a very different way of brooding and living so that the asian bee and the mites could coexist. Not so with our bees
@@kamonreynolds Thanks for the reply.
@@kamonreynolds Damn China Mites!
You always have the coolest shirts..lol.
Haha it is all Laurel's idea! I wouldn't even know where to find a shirt like these.
Amitraz has a moderate mammalian toxicity and there is some concern regarding its potential for bioaccumulation. It is considered to be a neurotoxin. Amitraz has a high to moderate toxicity to most terrestrial and aquatic species....
From the University of Hertfoedshire Pesticide Properties Database
Sorry hadn't completed that post, above from the University of Hertfordshire Pesticide Properties Database.
'Amitraz is an amidine acaricide and insecticide that is currently not approved for use in the EU but is still used in some parts of the world.'
...from the same source, University of Hertfordshire.
I appreciate your point about it perhaps being less repellent to bees than the organic acids and not 'burning ' them but... I don't want neurotoxins anywhere near my home, I would rather 'burn ' a small amount of brood (not that this has been an issue for me). There is the bigger picture of the how we treat this world and not just how we treat our bees ( and I do care for mine to the best of my ability and take varroa seriously of course.)
I respect your experience and have learned a lot from your videos but hope your dedication, curiosity and independent thinking will enable you to develop mite control that works for you without using neurotoxins like Amitraz.
I miss maqs for 2 years now, 2 times a year
Is there a temperature range where the mites will not survive and also what is to hot a temp for bee's to to live in? Thanks!
107F for 2.5 hours. in the brood chambers kills varroa in capped brood and out. with 85% effectiveness. 118F is their upper limit.
@@privatebubba8876 Man is that warm. How do the bees fair with this?
@@privatebubba8876 thanks for the info!
@@beebob1279 not well over a long period of time just like with extended periods of rain, they stop working at around 100 F. We are usually in the mid 90's with 90% humidity this time of year and the temperature in top of my hives reach about 105 daily but the brood box is at 92 F. The girls look like a bucket brigade bringing water from the fish pond fountain to the hive to keep the brood chamber cool.
@@lennelonge2626 There used to be a company that would come to your apiary and do this procedure and they were franchising the system but I haven't seen anything on it since. I think it was a fairly expensive job. It may well still be on youtube
What are your thoughts on 4.9 small cell foundation
A month ago a neighbor sprayed a big colony of bees mistaking it for wasp now the colony of bees dropped drastically over the month but this past week there are about 20 bees you can see around the entrance of a utility pole and coming and going. Is this s sign this bees colony is serving being sprayed 2 times within 2 days a month ago. If so what can I do to help the colony if it is able to survive get back on track?
Feed them probiotics to help boost their gut health and immunity - Super DFM honeybee
you got a shout out from Steves outdoor world! Kamon what are your opinions on just using OA vapor and nothing else?
I did?? On Oxalic you can use it by itself as long as you keep ahead of the mites no problem.
Kamon, Is the Oxalic Acid bought on ebay the same that we use with a Vaporizer for our Bees.
ehh... I'm using the oxalic acid sold as wood bleach at a well known home Improvement store.
I guess you donât ever use drone brood removal as a strategy? It was working fine with one of my two hives, never got above two mites in a test, but I think my second one, the nuc came with a high mite load. The first time I tested that hive it had over a dozen mites. I didnât get a full count because my assistant (teen son) knocked the wash jar with the mites over before I actually counted them. My local beekeeping club gave me a mentor for my first year and he came over with Apivar strips the club had bought in bulk. I treated both hives since they share a water supply.
Have you ever tried drone brood removal as a strategy?
Drone brood removal does help but you have to time it right and in my opinion you still need another control to go with it. It also takes alot of time. I do think it is a good idea if you have the time to do it!
Iâve culled sporadically with green drone frames. Planning an experiment next season. Will have a dedicated drone hive, set well away from others to reduce drift. One drone frame in each of 4-5 other hives; pull when capped, transfer frames of calm/productive colonies to drone hive, along with some nurse bees, freeze frames from more defensive hive(s). Thought is to get the varroa control benefit of drone culling while supplementing numbers of âgoodâ drones in congregation areas. Should be able to treat varroa in drone hive more aggressively without concern over damaging queen or worker brood, while needing less treatment in production hives. May/June/July should suffice. No idea how many nurse bees will be required. Since drones stay close by and queens go further to mate, any improvement in queen mating is likely to initially benefit my neighbors, not myself; the good karma would theoretically kick in when my virgins mate with their drones in following years. Likely there will be unanticipated kinks. Hope to do a series of CZcams vids; but I know ZERO about doing that at present.
Treatments with an organic acid, when used properly, are very effective when combined with the principles of Integrated Pest Management.
Hey Paul, sharing videos on CZcams is easy. I learn something new from everyone I watch, so you definitely need to post videos, lol. All you have to do, is make a video and when you're done, tap on your video and select the share icon, then it gives you the option to share via message, CZcams, etc... Select CZcams and wait a few seconds, it will ask you for a title and description, when you're done, hit the blue arrow to send it. You can also do this with existing video.
Paul, that sounds like it's going to be a great experiment. Have you thought about also using some Martha Carpenter Mite Maulers or Purdue Ankle Biters in your experiment? You can get them from Jason Bragg at New River Honey Bees in West Virginia. You're right, drone karma definitely comes back. Isn't beekeeping exciting!
Kamon....do you have any experience with the "hive heaters" for killing Varroa? If so what has it been like?
Hey hyfy! I don't have any experience and don't know much about them and that why I left them out of the talk. I really hope to get one before next season
What do you think about the mighty mite thermal treatment?(besides being time consuming per hive)
I have no practical experience so I am reluctant to say much about something I know very little about. I certainly would like to try one.
Is it too late to begin OA vaporization treating? And is it every week for a month?
OAV can be done anytime. It works best when it warm enough the cluster isn't super tight. I prefer once every 4 days for 5 rounds
Just alcohol checked a hive that had been through 3 treatments of Oxalic acid, and the check came out with 7.4 % mite infestation. Guess I'd better do 2 more treatments. Very curious because I did mite counts of 24 & 48 hours after each treatment and that hive did not show high counts of dead mites after any of the 3 treatments. Now I'm really worried!!@@kamonreynolds
Is OA vapor safe to use with supers on?
Can anyone name this inorganic solvent? It's a highly reactive chemical compound we use every day. It's molecules are composed of 2 Hydrogen atoms and 1 Oxygen atom.
not sure what you are getting at here. You suggesting water kills Varroa?
@@hyfy-tr2jy Lol, no, I'm just making a point. C2H2O4 is as harmless as H2O to the bees, when used properly, but we have to use protection because it is an acid.
I spent a decade cleaning and staining log homes and decks. I used C2H204 by the 5 gallon buckets, crystal form. I wore a respirator and full body protection. It will burn your lungs and skin, even dilluted in H2O. I learned that the hard way.
@@buildingwithtrees2258 That's true! You have to wear protection. Maybe I should delete this post because someone might think they don't need protection?
@@danskisbees7348 calm down lol. Anyone dumb enough to use this without a respirator and gloves will learn a quick lesson...and hopefully not a fatal one!
Why not use formic pro in October??
Wow!!!! Thatâs confusing. Iâm not yet keeping bees but watching every video I can to learn. I saw a video from the fat bee man and he was using mineral oil and essential oilâs in a vaporizer too control mites. Wouldnât that be more natural? And in your experience does it work?
I have never tried it. I doubt it works but who knows. Ultimately don the fatbeeman doesn't use it for more than show and tell on his videos. He restocks his yard with commercial packages each year and sells them as nucs when they are big enough. What he attempts to overwinter is what he doesn't sell. This is not my opinion this is something I know for a fact and others like our state apiarist can and will verify.
Be careful with essential oils. They aren't approved. Your Fat Bee Man has used a lot of things that weren't approved in the past. Follow your state's rules for what can be used for your colonies instead of this other stuff. Fat Bee Man has some interesting hive management strategies which can help, but be careful with un-approved mite controls.
Thank you for the information
It may seem like the cheapest route for the new beekeeper, but then you realize that it isn't as effective as you thought. Then you end up buying a vaporizer anyway. I recommend the wand vaporizer from Mann Lake if you only have a few hives. It does take longer, but it works.
The way you said that formic acid will put you on the ground...are we speaking from experience here??...jus wundrin...(lol!)
Thankfully no!
Hello, what do you think about apivar ??
How's your attitude on the OA vapor after your interview with the Florida honey bee researcher recently Kamon?
More is needed but too much can be a problem. I will have a video on this in the future
Where can I buy the Pro Vap 110?
Hey Garry,
Here is the direct link to order the Pro Vap 110. amzn.to/2KFVWn5
Need something safe while supers are on.
How about fogger using oxcelic
He's mentioned this before and says he cant vouch for it. I've done it and it works. You need to time it well since mites under capped brood are safe. Further, the fogger clogs up over time...
Morning Kaymon,
Have you used Hopguard II? It is not temperature limited and can be used with supers on, but I don't know how effective it is.
In my experience it did not get me sufficient kill over the treatment period. I want to do more tests on this in the future though. With any of these products an alcohol wash after the fact shows you if it really did drop the mites back. Using another treatment like OAV may work terrific in conjunction with the hopguard
@@kamonreynolds thanks! I am trying it for the first time on a feral Hive I forced out of a dead tree a couple months ago. Their mite load was high enough to warrant treatment. Unfortunately, just checked them today and the queen is gone! Not sure if she left with a mini swarm or what, but I suspect the application of the Hop guard may have had something to do with her leaving.
Is it too late to treat my hives with Oxalic Acid, I'm in East Tn
Hi Linda, It is not too late. I like to do 2 treatments in winter in December but January is a good time also.
@@kamonreynolds thank you!!! I have a hummingbird that stayed all winter and I have a couple feeders out for him. On the nice days my bees have been visiting them, I think they sure doing good so far. Want to get those mites.
What is your take on mineral oil fogging for mites?
Better to get a vaporizer. Works much much better and even a vaporizer only kills for 2-3 days tops. Which means you need a 7 treatment minimum in a 21 day cycle of brood
@@kamonreynolds Great thank you for your quick response. Keep up the good work.
Could I treat for mites now in February
Sure can
can you help me i am a new beekeeper and im very desperate, i tried yesterday this treatment an today i see 200 Bee dead or caroling on the ground , the temperature is right here in Ohio i donât know what to do
What treatment? Did the hive survive?
$1 per ounce đł. Guess Iâm cutting myself short.
you and me both!
have you tried o a v dribble ??
I have used OA dribble and if the correct dosage is used and especially if the mites are very exposed it is extremely lethal to the mites. Just don't over apply
Just my experience so don't beat up on me. I use Apiguard in August where my temps on the Cumberland Plateau average 75-80° at my hives, but through out the summer I use essential oils in my syrups and patties, and powdered suger washes monthly. Between the essential oils and sugar, they stay pretty much clean throughout the year, hardly any mites. You can alway put several frames in the freezer at a time for 48 hours if things get too bad. Kills the mites in cells, they clean up and start over.
What is everyone's opinion of this. It does about everything and uses propane, no wires. Not necessarily this exact model/brand. www.amazon.com/Varomorus-Propane-Insect-Effective-Control/dp/B076JPZV19
It looks really cool! But, they're just using the fogger method which is sporadic at best with no exact dosing no matter the concentration of the solution. Squirt twice per deep, squirt squirt, did it vaporize, did it all go in? I don't know, let me give them another squirt or two. There's also no way you can do a 100 hives in 25 minutes as advertised, especially if you're leaving them sealed for 10 minutes like you're supposed too. I suppose that you could have someone following behind you. Definitely better than nothing.
@@danskisbees7348 "Sporadic at best". Roger!
Bill, I'm glad that what you are doing is working for you, that's what matters..
I used to use the Black Flag fogger, now I use the Mann Lake wand vaporizer. This is just my opinion after using both. It definitely takes a lot longer, but it's exact. If you have a lot of hives and have power, the Provap 110 is the way to go.
What essential is do you use, for what, and how do you use them?
Amatraize is good.
I would line to purchase my bee equipment from you. Lorrel, please check out square space for sponsorship
Or drop shipping.
Idk if you get paid when I order from your Amazon link.
We are definitely looking into doing some sponsorships soon, we will look into Square Space. Thank you for the suggestion.
We do earn a small commission when you click through and buy things on Amazon. It doesn't cost you any more and really helps us out so we appreciate it greatly when people use our links! :-)
Beginner here: what do you do with honey supers while treating??
Hi Kay, Some place cardboard between the brood boxes and the honey supers so no vapor gets in the supers
Whats your thought for using Staghorn SUMAC in a smoker?to help treat for mites with the apivar strips?
I'm late to class. Sorry, teach.
amitraz = DMF and DMPF in wax.
do DMF & DMPF break down into anything further with time? and what are the health effects of the two compounds? i have looked and can't find these answers
â@@ConManCouch they are very bad for bees and queen bee especially. The best way is to read scientifical studies, there is plenty of it. DMF is stable and you can find it in honey (Shroeder, et al 2004). "By the year 2003, commercial hives were already so contaminated by amitraz, that there was concern about varroa having developed resistance . Later in the decade, Mullin (2010) detected DMPF in fully 60% of beeswax samples and 31% of beebread samples. Even more recently, DMPF was the third most common pesticide residue in the 451 samples of beebread analyzed by the USDA National Survey from 2010 through January 2014 -present in 23% of samples, led only by the other miticides fluvalinate and coumaphos"