Pfaff 1222 Loose Hook Bushing Repair
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- čas přidán 6. 06. 2015
- Unfortunately I recently fell victim to a loose hook bushing on my Pfaff 1222. I looked for some solutions online and there doesn't seem to be any beyond a custom made part that isn't available for sale. I thought I'd pull the area apart and see what could be done. The repair is a simple one.
You can drill/tap and install set screws in the gear housing to hold one, or both bushings in place. This makes for quick adjustment and is very secure. I used a size #6-32 SS set screw. Make sure you do not over tighten! Use blue loctite to make sure they won't back out from vibration and clean thoroughly with alcohol prior to loctiting. When reinstalling the bushings press them in evenly so that the spiral gear is centered and be sure to shim the gear so that it doesn't bind between the two bushings. I used a .04mm shim from a feeler gauge. There is absolutely no play and no perceivable friction when everything is installed.
Goodluck and keep these machines alive and in use! - Věda a technologie
This video helped me. I had the opposite problem, same machine. The rear bushing was ceased, locking up the machine.
Lack of lube caused it. My gal is a full-time sewer of experimental garments. This machine was my sister's (rip), for whom maintenance is just not done, not even lube. After it froze, she probably stored it for decades in her basement, further bonding the bushing....
I'm an industrial machine maintenance tech, production machinery. It was a delight working this small for a change.
I had to use a drift pin to dtive out the rear bushing... it was in that tight.
I cleaned it up with a strip of emery I use around my lathe, hit it with a lube my gal uses at work on the industrial machinery there.
I never removed the drive gear, so hopefully, I don't need to re-time it. Will see.
Thanks again.
Finally a video that addresses this procedure. Thanks for sharing your knowledge in this. one of my 1221 machines has almost a millimeter of back and forth play in these bushings.
Great video! Thank you! I really hope you will do that video on adjusting the Pfaff 1222 timing. I love your instruction!
Awesome! Totally answered my question. I have I think that spindle shaft seized somewhere. Otherwise, the rest of the machine seems OK. I just couldn't get to that screw due to the outer hook door cover part in the way. I didn't see that lower screw for some reason. Now the hook and whole drive train is moving since I can access the screw, however I need to jam up the hook somehow since the screw might be over tightened... or maybe just oil to loosen up and clean up if not disassemble and clean thoroughly as is probably best.
Turned out the hook bushing is loose and I might do the same. Wondering about some way to shim and press the bearing in to avoid drilling and tapping as well. Possibly using an adhesive might be a way as well. Any thoughts regarding that later two methods I mentioned? Still seems more needs to be disassembled and cleaned since the section of parts seem to be the most stiff, since still isn't easy to move the balance wheel by hand.
Hello sir, Thank you so much for sharing this. Please is the indicator wheel supposed to spin slowly when the machine is set to straight stitches ( 1 - 4) on the dial? or is it supposed to remain static? The indicator wheel is the black dial directly opposite the decorative stitch pattern length setting dial
Great video ! I use an oil called Liquid Bearings Fully Synthetic Oil, it is a sewing machine or clock light weight oil that that is a lot less thick than 0-20wt, also car oil that is labeled 100% synthetic is usually not as they changed the rules for labeling and it can have as much as 5% or some percentage of regular oil in it, this was a cave in to oil manufactures who said it was to hard to make 100% true synthetic.
I just rebuilt my hook assembly. The hook side bushing on mine was seized solid causing the whole machine to be locked up. These machines are such close tolerance machines that when they sit unused and serviced for long periods of time, the old oil turns into a varnish causing parts to be sticky, or in this case, seized. I had to hit the hook side bushing, once it was out of the gear box, with my heat gun. The old varnished oil melted and oozed out of between the bushing and race. Cleaned the two pieces up, re oiled and reassembled. Nice and smooth now :-)
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I have the se version of this machine. there is a clicking sound coming from the hook assembly. It clicks with the needle and bobbin removed. Any suggestions?
Nice job. How do you fix (prevent it from spinning) the hook assembly while loosening the screw on the back? It would be horrible to crack the plastic gear.
how should the position bracket be placed? Curved edge down or up?
I have a phaff 1199 and it suddenly started to go very slowly. The wheel is hard to turn forward but goes back normally. I took it apart and blew it out with a can of air. I can see no strings caught anywhere. :(
Brilliant. Thank you.
How did you get the door off that part
Could you provide a more full description of the oil you recommend? Is it 0W20 Synthetic Engine/Motor Oil?
Thanks for sharing. I am working as a volunteer in a local RepairCafe and that is very valuable information. Look forward to your instruction on timing a Pfaff machine.
Thank you! I posted a "timing video" a while back that should be on the channel. It's a generic overview but the approach applies to all machines. Hope it helps!
How do you remove the bottom cover?!?
I have this problem with my phaff 1222e Would you consider fixing this machine ?
Instead of going through all the work drilling and tapping for a set screw, just use Red Loctite on the bushing. It's creates permanent bond and only a torch will break it loose. I just did this to a 1222e and it was much quicker than trying to drill and tap.
Wouldn't Locktite 649 be better suited to that? Cylindrical fittings is what it's for.
@@atomicskull6405 Either or will work fine in application like this. Red Loctite (262) is much easier to find over here in smaller tubes and I've used it on various applications where a bushing has spun inside an aluminum case/housing. I've even used in on the driveshaft of my ATV which sees much more torque than a hook in a sewing machine. The splines were excessively worn so I used Red Loctite to hold the driveshaft onto the pinion gear of the differential. It's been holding for years.
hi Can't find the video on adjusting the PFAFF 1222 TIMING. Did you post it yet?
I have overview video on how to time use a pfaff 335. Principles apply to 1222.
Are you sure that's a 6-32 screw? Looking at my 1222 and the width of the aluminum wall, it looks like it should be a 4-40. And it looks more like a 4-40 in your video.
Thank you for your video. However, you lube parts that are not supposed to be lubed, then complain when dust enters them, and seizes them. Also, the driving gear on the main shaft is plastic (teflon based). Lubing it actually shortens it's life.
If it's like modern Pfaffs it's actually polyoxymethylene which is a self lubricating engineering plastic but it's not harmed by synthetic greases. NEVER use silicone grease on POM though only synthetic greases (e.g. triflow grease, super lube etc).
Buen día. Podrían traducir el vídeo a español por favor 🙏
Bonjour
Si il y a un jeu c’est seulement un problème de nettoyage et ensuite remettre la bague avant l’axe du crochet bien en butté ( attention au remontage vérifiez bien qu’il n’y pas pas de jeu dans l’arbre du crochet et pensez à bien remettre la rondelle de friction
This video would have been more useful if you had shown us the whole process of removing the gears and putting the shim and setting the time. Anyway I appreciate the video.
C'est sûrement très bien, mais en Français, je pourrais comprendre