DIY auxilary portable power system for camping, overlanding, travel with Redodo Lifepo4
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- čas přidán 3. 08. 2023
- This is my second video for the channel, building a DIY Lithium Power Box for my Redodo 12.8v Lithium Battery. This channel is dedicated to restoring / rebuilding / testing misc equipment, solar, batteries, etc inside & out of my garage.
Link to my website showing this build - hunleygarage.com/all-things-e...
Check out my website - Hunleygarage.com
Send me an email to aaron@hunleygarage.com
Affiliate links to items used in this build;
Link to the Redodo 12v battery;
Extra 4% off code for the official website【CampPrevost】
Redodo US website: www.redodopower.com/
12V 100Ah mini battery: www.redodopower.com/products/...
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Buttons - amzn.to/441IlvH
50 amp Anderson plug - amzn.to/45fLidm
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Battery Monitor - amzn.to/3OHIjES
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Mini Fans - amzn.to/3DFmwrk
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Stay tuned for more videos -
- RV AC Soft Start Showdown
- Testing out my Kawasaki 650sx on the water with its PJS 700 Viper Engine
- The next Hunley garage teardown and rebuild
My hope would be to have enough subs that I could give away the item featured in the video.
I do have another CZcams channel Campprevost showing everything Prevost h3-45 related.
Email me at aaron@hunleygarage.com if you have an idea for a video or would like me to include your build / rebuild on my channel.
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#Redodo
#DIYbatterybox
#Lithium - Jak na to + styl
I have a Li Time Mini, which is essentially the same battery. I've had it for two Months, and so far I am EXTREMELY happy with it!
Glad to hear. These minis are awesome
This looks like the best compact build I've seen to date. Nice job!
Thank you
This is a great build! I also love how you shared the links to the components you used. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
You could also connect a 110/230V Inverter. That would certainly make it more universal. The size would increase though. Also, it would be a good idea to introduce a switch for each output, so that you can turn off the one that is not used. So that all kinds of LEDs do not waste electricity uselessly.
Thanks for the ideas
Awesome!
Nice job with the build. Well thought out and compact.
Thanks! It’s awesome it fit nicely in that box
Sweet! Looks great! Nice work. 🎉
Thanks!
Great video. It will encourage me to build a more powerful unit. The one I am making now . Its basically from parts left over from old projects. Cheers from old George in the UK 🇬🇧
Thanks, glad it helped. Hope your build goes well
Nice job! Battery box construction is the most fun
Thanks! It is!
Add two small computer cooling fans or 1 and that’s an awesome setup
I ended up doing just that. I put some screens over them and it’s a little noisy but guess that’s better than overheating
I love the Off Grid Garage! Andy is funny. Awesome build BTW, it looks professional
Thanks!
Sorry guys - this is a new channel and my links I am assuming are coming from my Campprevost channel - so they aren't working. If you copy the link and paste in the browser they do work... I will work to get another affiliate account for this channel so my links work from now on. Growing pains, sorry for the inconvenience.
Great video!How much to build me one ? How long will your set powers fridge run on that battery ?
Thank you
You are a dadgum artist. Great DIY and content
Thanks!
Very nice Result!! Regards from Germany.
Thank you!
Awesome video. 👽
Thanks!
VERY NICE!
Thanks!
Thanks for watching everyone! Please hit like and subscribe
Make sure you have the lid open when charging with solar. The charge controller will get hot on a day without clouds. I fuse the solar panels or add breakers to everything.
Thanks!
Gonna need a couple of those 👍
See if I can get it figured out here soon
I’d love to buy one!!!
Thanks! I am going to try and redo my box, then possibly have some ready to go - will do a video for that. I need to redo wire sizes, add fuses and bus bars. The solar charger / charger is the hardest to plan for - they can be really cheap or super expensive.
Looks good. Need some ventilation and fuses. Had many batteries go thermal runaway when overheated. Nicads and SLABS
Agree - I put some little fans in it. Is the lifepo4 chemistry subject to run away?
Great work! Tip... If you make your links in the description live, then people could easily click on to go to your affiliate sites and you get the credits you deserve!
Well thank you. Will try - I think I have to create a new Amazon account - they aren’t coming live from my campprevost links…
Great video, to my luck i have the same battery and i make my box too. I love it
Great
Although I understand the theory for not charging to at least 14.2-14.6 the batteries will loose capacity just from calendar aging as well so I charge them full which also helps with top balancing.
I am playing with a new battery that has a good BMS with a Bluetooth app. Trying to see when, how the cells balance. It’s so BMS dependent as well. While charging above 14 the cell temps really started to rise. Once done charging, the temps dropped back down. The amount of amps gained was small too and cells voltage started to diverge as well. At rest they are starting to balance. I just can’t help but think 14-14.2 is good enough. Would be interesting to do a long term test and see if there really is any difference
@@Hunleygarage I currently am on a 2year test and have found 14.2 works perfect the cells all stay perfectly balanced. The first year I charged to 3.45 per cell and the cells drifted pretty heavily over that year. At 13.8 the cells never reach the steep curve so the Bms sees the same voltage in all cells so hardly any balancing can be done. 14.2 or 3.55v per cell is far enough in the steep curve to let the Bms see the voltage difference and take care of it. Just my 2 cents
@@Mr.J345just saved me 2 years of work! Lol. Thanks
Good video - keep them coming
Thanks
Any update on the rebuild ing of this power box ?
Also would love to see a video of how long the redodo mini runs your set powers fridge!
Keep up the great work!
Probably later this spring. I need to get a few honey do’s complete. Would like to really plan something out. I could do the setpower test though.
good 8d batteries are a lot better than you measured
I hope so!! I took 6 off my prevost - they didn’t do well. Hard to tell what 50% is - don’t really want to find out and risk destroying them.
I’m going to agree with every one else you need a battery disconnect and fusing.
Totally agree. This was sort of a proof of concept and turned out awesome so I posted the video - really need to do a follow up.
Nice portable unit. Can you do a video on a solar generator that can run that deep freezer you show in this video that would be interesting for a emergency grid down situation
Yes - I think it would be neat! Just have to attach my 1200 watt inverter to the Anderson connector and see how long it would go. Was thinking might as well hook the garage fridge and garage freezer up and see. So hard to know how much it uses - based on build quality for sure.
Excellent! Power Queens mini battery is 2 lbs lighter in weight. Have you thought about using a positive and negative buss bars? Also, i didn't see a fuse at the positive battery terminal. (Saves all electrical wires and equipment in case of an over amperage occurrence)
Amazing they can build one lighter! I need to get another video out reworking this box. It was a thought in my head, and kept building upon the idea until I just had to build it. Wasn't sure what would all fit, work together, etc. After some layout it all worked but now need to add fuses, bus bars, proper wire sizing, etc - but works great! Thanks for watching and commenting, I'll have an update out soon.
You should have fuses for your outlets.
Agree. This was just a quick proof of concept. Then it turned out really good - I thought anyway. I will do an update this late spring summer.
Sweet vid. Hope they can send you a 24v lifepo4 battery. I’d like like to see a HD box for a 150ah or 200ah 24v.
I did a 300ah in a Rigid toolbox last year, and I think my winter project this year will be a 24v300ah version in a wheeled construction toolbox. It will weigh about 180#.
That would be neat to see! I think a nice wheeled box is the answer!
Awesome build. The only thing id keep an eye on is the Victron heating up if you plan on using a good amount of wattage from Solar. If it does heat up you can always add a mini computer fan facing the Victron.
Victron is immensely over priced.
@@5400bowen im not sure how some of their lower end stuff is better then the latest Chinese made products?
Thanks! I did go back and add two very small fans. My solar is to low to cause much heat, but the controller is definitely large enough to accept to much solar and overheat the box.
@@Hunleygarage awesome
I don't think they are over priced, you get you what you pay for is more like it. Thanks for watching!
You can safely charge to 14.20V for LiFePO4 . "Normally" the manufacturer will indicate 14.40V , but we'v ( BlueNova Energy) seen this is not necessary. The BMS start to balance cells from 14.10V up to 14.40V , but 14.10V - 14.20V will be fine. Float can be at 13.85V . Charge current for first few cycles needs to be low ( 10A - 15A) just to allow cells to balance & settle , from where you can do ideally 25A - 35A max , depending on application( min recharge time ...) .
Thanks for the comment. I felt the man recommendations are way to high - thinking mine might be to low. I sat in front of my bus batteries (camp prevost channel) and watched the BMS indicate 100% at 27.65 - and watched a lot of the off grid garage tests, that’s where I came up with my numbers. After living with it awhile, I think a little higher is necessary but scared to go to high because it seems that causes them to swell. Have you noticed swelling with higher voltages?
@@Hunleygarage Sorry for the delay in my reply...On 26V you can safely go then to 28.20V for Absorbtion and 27.60V for Float....you were basically only floating your battery at 27.65V...Swelling of cells will occur mostly in two cases...1 . overcharge, charging continuously / regularly over 14.60V( above 3.65V per cell ) ( 29.20V ) and 2 . Charging at high current with a low battery pack voltage in cold conditions( below " 0 "Deg. ) .Individual cell voltages here is very important to keep an eye on, if any cell or cells is below 2.0V , charging amps must be reduced to 1 - 5A ( depending on battery capacity / size) and once all cells has reached 2.5V the charge current an be increased to double this values . Once all cells has reached at least 3.0V , the normal charge current can be applied .
New sub here😀 great video
thanks!! I will have more out soon - been super busy
@@Hunleygarage thank you 😀😀😀
Looks well put together. Any fuses inline? I have purchased four batteries for two systems myself. Even use one in my portable setup too. Good job
Thank you. I didn’t install any in this model - it was more of a last minute proof of concept. The problem is it works which makes it hard to tear apart and redo it!
Would that Anderson connector work to make this into a battery jump starter for emergencies jump starts? Cool video.
I guess if you put alligator clips on the other side it would. Wonder if the BMS would shut off - think it would make a neat video!
Great video this is exactly what i plan to do, when mains charging is that going via the victron mppt or is the anderson connector straight to battery? Thanjs
Right now it just charges via the MPPT and solar. To charge via 120v, I just hook the charger into the Anderson
Did you fit any fuses for safety. I didn't notice any whilst watching the video. George Just concerned what would happen if the ciggy socket got shorted out by accident. Eg a washer dropped into socket.
Not on this one - was more of a proof of concept, will it work, do I like it, etc. planning to tear apart and rework it
You should definitely charge the battery at the charge voltage the manufacturer recommends in the battery’s data sheet to keep the battery longer. Something around 14.4 is typical for LiFePo4.
Thanks for commenting. It would take years, but would be a neat test to take the same battery and max charge to different levels and see if there was any difference in degradation and total life.
The amount of time required to reach 14.4 and the stress placed on the cells is a lot - for very little, if any capacity gained. If you watch the cell temps, they really start to rise after 14v and then immediately drops after the voltage is dropped.
Because the capacity gained between 14 and 14.4 is very little - maybe .05 amps - I don’t like to go that high. The thought of the time and stress placed on the battery makes me cringe.
The beauty of all this, is I can do one thing and you another and we discuss differences and understand the outcomes.
Love it! I'd like to build one myself as a newbie to solar and LiPo batteries. This will be a great starter project. One question. You only have charging via Solar. Was there a reason you didn't include a 10A or 20A plugin charger as well?
Not really - I bought a Victron 12v charger but didn’t put it in - got a little cramped for room (and wanted it portable to use for other batteries) but wanted to use my solar as the primary charger. Another guy wants me to build him one, but remove the MPPT and install the 120v charger instead. I think there is room for both. Icing on the cake would be to add an inverter but would need a bigger case. So what added the Anderson connector to easily add when needed. The smaller 300 watt inverter would fit well though
@@Hunleygarage Great options in this build. When you build another one, I hope you share a video of it.
@@Hunleygarage I did a small 120ah build in a Plano HD storage box. With raw cells there was enough room to mount a solar controller and an 600w inverter on a non-conducting board that sat on top of the batteries and still allowed the lid to close. I usually build bigger systems but this build came out so compact and light weight that I end up taking it everywhere with me. It charges nicely from a 180w panel mounted on top of my truck or from a 60a external charger I can use if needed..
I wouldnt mount that charge controller on the battery. I love victron but they can get kinda hot sometimes
I got tight on room. If I had more solar id be worried. Before the case I had it mounted on the battery and it never got warm but because I’m well below its rating.
Love this. Do i need the solar controller if i'm not charging it via solar? or would i need something else entirely or nothing? Electrical is not my forte 🤣
Solar charger is only for charging with solar panels. You would need a lifepo4 charger to recharge it.
suggest you, add 1X 5volt or 12 volt exhaust fan in the box.
I put in two little fans to help push / pull the air. I think in version 2.0 I’ll use a larger one.
@@Hunleygarage If you add fans Big Holes water ingress
Just add a little panel mount LED/LCD temp gauge, if it gets hot.?. Temporarily Open lid
great video. How long would this power pack run a full size freezer and full size refrigerator? thanks and how much would you charge to make one like this? thanks
It you had an inverter sized to run them both - assuming they are already cold - probably 6-12 hours. It’s hard to say, really just depends on the loads. The battery only had 1,280 watt hours in it - so just a factor of load over time.
I have been asked by a few how much to make one - I never added everything up and need to add a few fuses and bus bars. Probably $450? I will be tearing this one apart and rebuilding it soon - I will keep track of all costs and possibly sell a few. Trying to understand liability issues if I do….
Thanks and i definitely understand your liability concerns. thanks again for a great video.@@Hunleygarage
I just saw your post about copying the links…Ty. Will you have a dumbed down version for wiring, cutting etc. Thanks
Thanks for the comment. I have had a few ask me to build them one - will definitely do a video of each build. I could do another on the wiring as well if people are interested.
What kind of glue are you using to mount the Drok and MPPT?
I just used 3M double stick tape. I’m going to gut this box and rework it - hoping in the next few weeks to do that and post a video. I have several other products to test as well. Been busy with life, so taking a bit to catch up.
Question: Under the lid of the box you have little clips use for retaining the wires. Do you have a link to the ones you used or can you elaborate on what those are? Are they just adhesives with a small zip tie holding the wires to them? Any help is appreciated. Planning on building something very similar myself and appreciate the awesome video!
amzn.to/3QiGUFF
Try that link. They are just adhesive zip tie mounts, I got mine at Menards. I will try to re-do my box and include fuses, proper wire sizes and bus bar - put out a new video soon. Thanks for watching and good luck!
What size wire gauge did you use for the Anderson connector to battery and from charge controller to battery thru the shunt?
Because the BMS will allow 100amps - which you should use 4g if not 2g. The Anderson connector is rated at 50amp though, so I used 6g - I have to watch my load though.
I would love to try this, but I have no idea how. Is there a way to have your links go to Amazon? I’m glad I came across your video. Thanks
I will work on adding another account so they work. I guess these links only work with my other CZcams channel.
I think the links work now. I am going to redo that build and post an updated video. Once I do that, I will try to have a few available for purchase.
Can you plug a charger into the solar port? If not, maybe add another port to charge from an ac-dc charger? Thiughts?
I cannot but your point is valid. At the time I only had my solar. The two people that want one would like an ac-dc option or perhaps in place of the solar - so the next build will incorporate that.
On the solar input could you make a 12v cord? Say charge it while driving?
Can you open up the Dr. Prepare battery and show the insides of what you have done? I have one and would like to do the same. Thanks
I would like to see it as well.
Yes - it was a pain to get all the stuff in there - would make a good video - thanks
@@Hunleygarage Yes, I am sure it is very tight. That's why I was asking. A photo would do for me. You think a 120 amp anderson would fit?
Just as an FYI, I have stared working on mine, and so far I have added a 100 amp rotary switch, a 120 amp Anderson, and a 45 amp Anderson (one of the small ones). I haven't installed the Drok yet. I am going to fuse the main cable. It is very tight but room enough to add a few odds and ends.
@@mizmo7223holy crap! I didn’t know they made an Anderson like that. What cable size did you use? Sounds great. I made a video of my battery and going to post Friday
No fuses?
Every rose has its thorn.
hi, you use victron mppt with built-in bluetooth. Just wondering why don’t you use the same brand smart shunt to monitoring all data with Victronconnect app?
Victron is a good shunt - just expensive and can’t read right away. Nice to have a less expensive unit show the real time status.
@@Hunleygarage This was my decision as well after a lot of thinking. I don't want to have to pull out my phone every time to check the battery SOC. Nice build and thanks for the inspiration!
So how new / old is your outback??? Mine is too old to use with anything but wet lead. There are just so many more options available for inverters nowadays
It’s got to be at least 10 years old. I do have the little programmer box, so thinking I could change the voltage parameters to work with the lifepo4 - I think.
@@Hunleygarage Mine is probably half again (no it's twice that I think it and the genset were both installed in 04 or 05) older than that, I was researching it on Outbacks website, and mine didn't have a path to working with LiFePo just too old, their newer stuff will if I was reading it right. I love my Outback, it's been daily for it's whole life powering a semi truck sleeper
No cooling, no fusing?
I put those two fans in but didn’t use any fusing. I guess I could put one in somewhere but figure the BMS will shut things off before I’m concerned. The rest are phone chargers and my cooler pulls 50 watts. My solar input is less than half its rating. I may figure something on another build
You have 2 redundant links. USB A, and Solar connector right below it.
I am going to try and get all these fixed - thanks for the heads up!
Got it fixed - thanks!
In my opinion, this "HiSport 50A Plug Mounting Panel for Anderson SB50 Series Plug Flush Mount Recessed Plate" is too weak. You really don't have any problems using it? Overheating or high power losses? Can you test its connection quality with a fairly powerful consumer?
I wouldn’t use it for more than 50amps - which at 12.8V isn’t much - 640 watts….
@@Hunleygarage Ok, I understand. I didn't find anything more powerful than 200A. I occasionally need to use a 1.5 Kw device. That's why I'm looking for options.
NICE what is the total cost of this build?
Thanks! I will have to add it up. I also need to rework my box, add proper wire sizes, fuses, bus bar etc. I slapped this together after thinking about it and it turned out really neat so I posted the video. I will try to get an update video out soon.
The laptop has a battery already built in.
Ha - I know but when you run wifi, Microsoft programs, etc the battery really gets zapped! I end up going to work and it's dead - it is about 6 years old, so probably time for an upgrade.
Can u charge this normally with a battery charge and not just solar?
Yes by using the Anderson plug
@@Hunleygarage thank you
Does anyone know if this setup would a setup run this 12V cooler/fridge (or similar model) full time? I know solar is an issue but in the CA desert cloud cover isn't an issue.
I think it will. If I had my 12v cooler in the shade along with the battery and the solar in the sun, I think it would last indefinitely- until one component quit working.
@@Hunleygarage thanks! Would you recommend a larger battery or something else? I plan on doing a setup like this in a storage container. The problem is, even in the shade it gets very hot 100+ in there.
It all depends upon your load and the sun you can harvest. If you could reply with some numbers I could let you know. If you are going to lock one in a storage container - would make me nervous - like you said it can become a pressure cooker! All the electronics do well but when you start increasing the temp, not really sure what starts to happen and when failure points kick in.
@@Hunleygarage I haven't purchased anything yet because I hate to buy things twice. It in the area of 29 Palms CA. It's pretty much full sun all the time. I do have a small shed I could use that is vented. I could run power to the container from the shed if that would be a better idea.
No fuses nor killswitch, no ventilation huh?
Not on this one. Was first try to see how it went. I am planning to tear apart and make a more PC unit with all the safety stuff.
I'd like to replicate this for my kayak trolling motor. Why the need for killswitch or fuses? What makes this different than a battery box, they dont have ventilation either?
@@_Lt__Dan_ if you ask about those things that shows the lack of knowledge you have. For your safety keep away from it, or find someone with proper knowledge who is willing to make it for you, cheers.
@@MalinowyWampir Anyone ever told you you’re a dick? Cheers
You had an opportunity to politely teach someone something, but instead, you were a punk. @@MalinowyWampir
Where are the fuses?
Thanks for the comment. You thinking it’s needed for the USB chargers or the Anderson connector? I could install an in-line for the USB but thinking the BMS will cut things out at 100amps for the Anderson. A few have asked for me to build them one - interested in suggestions.
I would at for the usb chargers ATO 10 amp blade fuse for usb and aux port. Best to be on the safer side if the BMS fails, and have an issue later. You should fuse anything that can short out somewhere else including the charging cable.@@Hunleygarage
I am going to rework that build and add in fuses and bus bar. Thanks!
Price
No idea - I need to work something up
Links for CIGS panels?
I can provide where I had them made - they were custom made oversees - will dig and send info
@@Hunleygarage ..thanks..looks like BougeRV sells them as well.
They do, might be best to get them from there. I bought mine from Alibaba. Shenzhen Sheng Shi Tian He Electronics Technology Co. Ltd. I went through Jasmine Wu.
Add a free battery into the cost
That’s a good idea
You're going to need a band tonight it will overheat
Thanks
There's a reason why your lifepo4 battery chargers are all set to 14.6 Volt
Why would you do that? What benefit does it provide? Lifepo4 becomes 100% at 13.75. There is no reason to run it up to 14.6 for another hour for possibly 2 minutes of watt hours. I’m telling people it’s wrong and to change it and sticking to it.
@@Hunleygarage I really don't know what benefit it provides I just know all the lifepo4 chargers charge at 14.6 volts and every time you read the instructions for any lifepo4 battery it says the charge between 14.4 and 14.6 volts so I'm guessing there's a very good reason for it
@@DaveSquibbSr - can understand. Go to a channel called offgrid garage. He does actual testing on the lifepo4 Chemistry. Also look for the charge curve for that chemistry. After doing that, you will see that 14.6/14.9 will very well charge the battery but appears to damage and expand the cells. It’s like filling a water tank to the top at 13.8. It’s like putting a top on that tank, sealing it, and then running your hose full blast until no air remains to hit 14.9. I’ll fill my tank to the top and stop there - it’s far enough.
@@Hunleygarage no thank you, I will stick with the manufacturers suggested setting so I can get my warranty if anything goes wrong.
@@DaveSquibbSr to each his own. Take a look at the charts and watch his videos some night. Thanks for the conversation. What would be interesting is to take two of them. charge one to 14.9 and the other to 13.8 (or similar) and see what the long term effects are on longevity and capacity. We don’t have any idea in the present day only speculation. Probably by the time 15-20 years expire there will be another chemistry out that is even better anyway lol. We do know that repeated charging to those levels is what causes the packs to expand/enlarge. On a cellular level it is causing fissures and cracks in the material, also abnormally large expanding the cells (you see it in the cells but it’s hidden in the battery packs we buy). The charge curve also shows that once lifepo4 hits 13.82 it’s 100% charged - from that level up is when the damage starts to occur. I witnessed this during my own charging and BMS readings. The capacity gained and duration of time needed to raise the cell voltage from 13.82 to 14.9 (for a nominal 12v pack - each cell is 3.456) is minimal and appears from the real data received will start to internally destroy some of the cells. Just wanting to toss the red flag to people of what is really going on - let them decide for themselves.
wattHOURS
Haha. I use all those terms very loosely
Nooo, I don't want to go off grid... 🤯
haha -thanks for watching
Did you test the capacity?
I did not, there are several other reviews that did with consistent results. With that said, I will be doing another video running a fridge and freezer off of it - basically testing capacity and how long they will both run.
Bet they love that you didnt get their name correct once in the whole video lol
Not even once? Lol
None of your links are working
I think I have to get a separate link for this channel - mine are associated with camp prevost - so think they don’t work. That or the channel has to be monetized first. Thanks for trying, thanks for letting me know
I’m sick of products being reviewed that you can’t buy anywhere.
I’m will to sell one….
Out of curiosity, because several have asked, what would you expect to pay for this - without the battery? I am going to rebuild mine and post an updated video - and try to have a few available for purchase. If I could get a sponsor, would be neat to give one away!
@@Hunleygarage I wouldn’t offer a penny for some “product” built by a person who knows very little about solar technology and is pandering to crap brands, all to try to get rich off of CZcams videos. I’d buy a Chins battery off Amazon, an inverter from same, and a charge controller from ditto, and throw them in the trunk of my car or set them on a shelf or a table and have just what you are offering. Putting those in a spiffy case just helps build up heat (the main enemy of electrical devices) and is done to trick the inexperienced into thinking it is a different product. A milk crate would make a better case for these “devices”. These “solar generators” are a fantasy product made up by businesses to make money, not to offer a viable product to consumers. They are all a sham.
@@5400bowenthanks for the comment. Before you accuse me of trying to make money, do you know, or even have a clue, about how much I make off this? Zero! So if I’m doing this for nothing why would I be doing this. Because it’s something that interests me and posting a video in case someone else is interested as well. Maybe I get a battery out of it to review or .03 cents from an Amazon link. That is still almost nothing in place of my time put in. People have asked if I could get the same stuff you mentioned off Amazon only put it together for them. A service to them for something they want instead of tossing it in a trunk like you. I’m not asking you to buy anything, you are the one writing hate comments on how you can’t buy it - then when I ask out of curiosity what you’d pay for it - anther hate comment appears. How do you know anything about me. How can you say I know nothing about solar? I would like to know - only I don’t really care what your answer is. Thanks for the comment - it helps my channel grow :). I hope you find why you hate, fix it and then do something to better the world.
@@5400bowen The brands that you mention are pretty much junk so while these items items aren't perfect, and you can build your own, with those items it wouldn't really be great. Yes I have built portable power systems as well.