I always buy new. I would recommend that too. If you know someone who has one and know they have taken care of it and are willing to sell, that would be a good way to go.
The handle is called plywood with a varnish coating. 40+ years doing carpentry. They just gave it a fancy name. This one and the 120 are the only two I'm missing from my collection soon to be added. Waiting for spring specials. Even the Cocobolo is plywood, just a higher quality than Home Depot ha ha.
Very nice looking. This is on my list now. I also love the 102, so many people in my family has one. I have a 650 Nighthawk it is a Top's coroboration. Well it is not pretty but it will take a hell of a beating and still be going, it is a beast. But with this knife, the plasticy wood feel that you are talking about is a bit of a turn off for me to this knife, but I still like it, and may get it at some point
buck's website doesn't have the dimension info, only the length of blade & overall length...anyone know the width of the blade from spine to cutting edge around the heel area?...looks maybe between 1/2 to 3/4 inch or is it taller than that? I can't find one in a store nearby me. And how tall is the handle from top of tang to bottom? thx
This may be a stupid question for some. I work in construction. Can I use this knife in that environment? Like cutting throw plastic, dirty muddy surfaces, removing nails attached in wood and all that stuff. Basically the stuff that goes through a mechanical shop for repairs and usage.
I like Buck knives, and I have a bunch of them. I EDC a Buck 110. But I'm not sure they can say they're the measure of a knife. Given my choice, I'll take a Case XX, Ka-Bar, Queen, Hen & Rooster, Boker Tree Brand, Bear and Son, and even a Utica over a Buck, at least for traditional knives. I prefer a high carbon steel over stainless, and I prefer the stainless all these other companies have over 420HC. I also want brass liners on a knife because brass is more than just how the knife looks. Brass is self-lubricating, and over several years, can make the difference between a solid knife and a broken spring pivot pin. I also want real bone covers, or elk covers, or stag covers, and not G-10, or synthetic bone. While you can get a couple of Buck knives with real bone, and one with elk, the rest of the knife falls below the other companies. Right now, there's only one Buck that matches the other companies, and that's the new factory run of the 110 with elk scales and an s30v or 5160 blade. 5160 is a spring steel, good for swords, but not something I'd want on a small knife, but s30v is a very good stainless. For me, Buck knives fall into the category of use hard, and don't worry too much about the damage you do. There's nothing wrong with this, and it's the kind of knife most real users want and need. I don't think Buck makes a knife you show off to your friends, or hang on the wall. But is a very good work knife, and as such, it's a good knife. But the other companies are also stepping up, and you can now get a Case XX Trapper with 154 CM steel, which is a very good high carbon. Far better than 5160. I like that Buck is trying to keep up with what today's knife people want, but they have a long road to travel, if they want to catch these other companies. Moving a large part of their production to China did not help. Too many Buck knives now come with hollow grinds, too. The only reason the hollow grind exists is because it's a very cheap way of making a blade. It takes less metal, and was the first type of blade that could be done by automation. It's the weakest blade you can make because there is very little metal behind the edge, and most of the way up the blade. Batoning with any knife is silly and amateurish, but if you baton with this one, it will break.
Horrible review. Everything he said I could tell just by looking at it myself. "About 3, 3.5mm"?? How about an actual measurement? How about a demonstration of it in action? "That's a nice looking knife"...thanks. I couldn't tell myself.
I always buy new. I would recommend that too. If you know someone who has one and know they have taken care of it and are willing to sell, that would be a good way to go.
Check your info on the warranty. Forever Warranty is a warranty on the knife forever, not on the lifetime of the original purchaser
One of my favorite hunting knives!!!!
The handle is called plywood with a varnish coating.
40+ years doing carpentry. They just gave it a fancy name. This one and the 120 are the only two I'm missing from my collection soon to be added. Waiting for spring specials. Even the Cocobolo is plywood, just a higher quality than Home Depot ha ha.
Thank you for the good review. Very helpful.
For what looks like a standard no-frills leather sheath, they kind of surprised me with the detent of that plastic insert. Good job Buck.
great looking blade and great review as always thanks
always wanted one of these. I have a bunch of Bucks but never pulled the trigger on the ranger, but after your review I'm getting one thanks.
Clay
Buck is one of the Best brands
Sweet. I like it
Out of stock. Good looking knife. Nice review.
Nice knife but it should have a brass collar in the lanyard hole
Very nice looking. This is on my list now. I also love the 102, so many people in my family has one. I have a 650 Nighthawk it is a Top's coroboration. Well it is not pretty but it will take a hell of a beating and still be going, it is a beast.
But with this knife, the plasticy wood feel that you are talking about is a bit of a turn off for me to this knife, but I still like it, and may get it at some point
The handle reminds me of the buck 100 classic folder. Without the clipped point of course.
buck's website doesn't have the dimension info, only the length of blade & overall length...anyone know the width of the blade from spine to cutting edge around the heel area?...looks maybe between 1/2 to 3/4 inch or is it taller than that? I can't find one in a store nearby me. And how tall is the handle from top of tang to bottom? thx
Bucks are great knives as long as you get a pre made in China model.
nice looking knife
This may be a stupid question for some.
I work in construction. Can I use this knife in that environment? Like cutting throw plastic, dirty muddy surfaces, removing nails attached in wood and all that stuff. Basically the stuff that goes through a mechanical shop for repairs and usage.
is it worth it to get it new or shood i just get it used on amazon
Like the sheath but the stitching on mine broke
You are so funny!
Hahahaha
Their is a list of what Buck knives are made in the USA an about a dozen or more made in China
I wanna buy this and put Wiimote strap loop to it.
@ wwwknivestowncom- thanks for the advice and txting back so soon. sorry i had to send it like this my Ipad wont let me send it the normal way. --Kyle
Yeah ha
I like Buck knives, and I have a bunch of them. I EDC a Buck 110. But I'm not sure they can say they're the measure of a knife. Given my choice, I'll take a Case XX, Ka-Bar, Queen, Hen & Rooster, Boker Tree Brand, Bear and Son, and even a Utica over a Buck, at least for traditional knives.
I prefer a high carbon steel over stainless, and I prefer the stainless all these other companies have over 420HC. I also want brass liners on a knife because brass is more than just how the knife looks. Brass is self-lubricating, and over several years, can make the difference between a solid knife and a broken spring pivot pin.
I also want real bone covers, or elk covers, or stag covers, and not G-10, or synthetic bone. While you can get a couple of Buck knives with real bone, and one with elk, the rest of the knife falls below the other companies. Right now, there's only one Buck that matches the other companies, and that's the new factory run of the 110 with elk scales and an s30v or 5160 blade. 5160 is a spring steel, good for swords, but not something I'd want on a small knife, but s30v is a very good stainless.
For me, Buck knives fall into the category of use hard, and don't worry too much about the damage you do. There's nothing wrong with this, and it's the kind of knife most real users want and need. I don't think Buck makes a knife you show off to your friends, or hang on the wall. But is a very good work knife, and as such, it's a good knife.
But the other companies are also stepping up, and you can now get a Case XX Trapper with 154 CM steel, which is a very good high carbon. Far better than 5160. I like that Buck is trying to keep up with what today's knife people want, but they have a long road to travel, if they want to catch these other companies. Moving a large part of their production to China did not help.
Too many Buck knives now come with hollow grinds, too. The only reason the hollow grind exists is because it's a very cheap way of making a blade. It takes less metal, and was the first type of blade that could be done by automation. It's the weakest blade you can make because there is very little metal behind the edge, and most of the way up the blade.
Batoning with any knife is silly and amateurish, but if you baton with this one, it will break.
James Ritchie completely disagree with everything you’ve said.
its very bad stiching on the belt loop.
Your video is massing up. We can't see it.
Horrible review. Everything he said I could tell just by looking at it myself. "About 3, 3.5mm"?? How about an actual measurement? How about a demonstration of it in action? "That's a nice looking knife"...thanks. I couldn't tell myself.
just don't buy their Chinese stuff with 420j2. heat treat is terrible and the barely hold an edge.
Schroeder_2000 wrong . Chinese buck knives are as good as usa made.i have both so i know