BMW M62B44TU chain rattling. Chain tensioner replaced. Engine sounds. *Stock Exhaust Sound Check*
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
- This is my experience so far with BMW M62B44TU chain tensioner ( BMW part No. 11317531813 ). We are using an aftermarket part from INA. I am showing what I did to replace the little thing and what the results were right after that.
If you need more info feel free to comment below.
We might have to do something about that exhaust... ;)
Thanks for watching.
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the M62 and M62TU engines operate and a ridiculously high temp. 102C + is 215 degrees Fahrenheit ) and sometime the temp is even higher > 225F )meaning the engine oil is that same (or very close) temp. Its why the timing chain guides become brittle. Replacing the chain tensioner before any rattling is good preventative maintenance. i own a 97 540i sport 6 spd (non vanos), ( 5yrs and driven it 50k now-140k on car). I bought the low temp 180 degree F thermostat kit at 90k (i think approx
Dude thank you keep up the good work
It’s two years later. Did the guides make it?
You pull the fuel pump relay then turnt he car over to get the tensioner to disengage. Otherwise you slap the hell out of your 20+ year old timing guides.
I will never replace tensioner alone, without replacing chain guides as well. New tensioner will increase tension to the extent that old plastic guides can easily brake down. Then, there is a terrible noise due to chain touching a metal cover.
Yeap! You are probably right.
@@mitchoniautoNo, he's not. The tensioners get clogged up with burnt oil particles and don't pressurize fast enough during cold starts much much sooner than the guides start failing from heat cycling and friction wear. What kills the guides fast is the cold start chain slapping against them. Change your oil religiously and plan on changing the tensioner when the cold start rattle starts to prolong your guide life. They can last 150K. If you buy the car at 100K and got the rattle, don't expect miracles from just changing the tensioner. The original plastic is 20+ years old at this point and the chains stretch, too.
The tension is actually what makes the guudew last a lot longer, but when it has slack the chain slaps on the plastic and shatters it to bits
You can just soak the new tensioner over night in engine oil and give it a few compressions
I did try to change mine on the M62B44 non-vanos. It also had the longer yet softer spring. But even filled with oil, it made a ticking (chain ?) noise when accelerating past 2000rpm. I switched back to the original tensioner and no more ticking. Did it also happened to anyone else ?...
Sound on the left side of the car are definitely hydrolic valve tappers, listen with a stethoscope, and replace them. Cleaning is more expensive then buying a new one.
still sounds the same?
Hi what happened to your e39.. did you replace the chain guides in the end… thanks
Nope. I did not do that yet. May be I should have done that by now...
Just did the chain guides and vanos rebuild on my 01 740iL. Piece of cake, took a few days, going at it at a casual pace. Should MOST always use OE or OEM parts..just my two cents. Just because these e38/e39 are pushing 20+ years, does not mean they should not still be treated and maintained as the $70,000 cars they were in their prime.
@@imabozoMeng 100% agreed on using OEM chains and guides. I am almost certain that BMW made an upgrade of the plastic chain guides and not sure if one can trust aftermarket versions. Was it easy to undo and redo the Crank Pulley cause torque specs of that bolt are crazy...? 😵💫
@@mitchoniauto Funny you ask, I snapped two 1/2" breaker bars before switching to an impact for removal. Torquing the new crank bolt 100% needs a 4ft 3/4" drive breaker and the m62 crank holder tool. 😆 The Harbor Freight 3ft breaker was bending severely on the last 60°.
same my car 540i 2003 like lifter sound 😭😔
how fix this sound
I have the same and its from 97 i have been told aswell that is lifter noise
Timing chain guides after all huh?
:))) Still do not know for sure. Still driving like that. The thing is that we are pass 100k miles mark - 169k km to be exact. Everybody says it is 100k miles and one should change the chain and tensioners.
@@mitchoniauto Mine did the same thing for a long time too. Then one day after replacing all water hoses and repairing the injectors the ticking sound got louder. Turned out to be the timing chain guides. Initially the ticking sound went away when revving it, so took it for a spin and man it was performing better than before but the ticking was going after decelerating. I put a new guide tensioner too and the sound was still there. So took the entire thing apart and yep the guides were just barely started breaking. The only way I determined it was the guides is when I removed all the belts, ran the engine and the ticking was coming from the drivers side.
Guides are gone or pieces missing
I guess we'll find out what is going on eventually :)
@mitchoniauto did you find out???
What is that clunking noise, knocking when you press the gas pedal?
Chain slapping around, the guides are gone
What's that knocking noise everytime you pan to the right hand side?, as I have the same noise
Hi! Can you give me the time(s) in the clip so that I can look into it?
@@mitchoniauto i have the same noise as benny above and you have it aswell its at 10:11 to 10:15 it sounds like a steam train going uphill😂
I replaced tensioner as well and still sounds ,someone told me that sounds like lifter noise,next job is oil pan off and looking for plastics to make sure guides are good ,also someone said its normal as the non vanos is noisier 🤷🏻yours is non vanos right?
Another vid I watched said about same thing and in the other it showed the oil pump chain is loose in the pan. Might be something
@@mitchoniauto an example @1.01
its a normal m62 knock
Hi, found the reason for the ticking sound?
At one point I decided to check how the spark plugs were doing and found out that most of them were not tight enough which was a surprise because I had them torqued myself when I changed them... I will make a video with the sound of the engine as it is now.
Its VANOS
First guides are gone then needs rebuild vanos and the clean or replace tappers
Can you put a link up for the tensioner you used?
Yeap! BMW part number is 11317531813 and the one I used is INA 5510004100: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-timing-chain-tensioner-lower-11317531813 And this is the Genuine one: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-timing-chain-tensioner-lower-11317531813-1
The diesel sound is VANOS
Vanos is a pain in the aXX... :)))
Changing tensioner will not Fix the rattle
What will fix the start up rattle? I already replaced chain tensioner a d still have start up ratlle
@@wierdodude102 same here wtf is it
There is no fix for this !
I ve changed
1 timing all Components
2 cam adjusters (vanos)
3 timing tensioner
4 non return valves Behind vanos solenoid
5 Tried different oil No good result
6 Low temperature thermostat No good result
Some how oil drains from the top of the engine and cam adjusters are empty with no oil and takes Couple of seconds to fill them up and that's why we hear this rattle . Just do the 1 2 3 and enjoy the car .
In the winter is less ratlle because oil is more thicker and all engine Components are shrink to each other and is less space for oil to pass .
Changing vanos cam ajusters only fixed diesel sound at idle