I Found Problems Fitting the Explorer 5.0 and 4R70W in my 1968 Mustang
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
- In this episode, I hit major problems trying to fit the Explorer 5.0 and 4R70W in the '68 Mustang. I find issues with the transmission conversion crossmember and the front sump oil pan. After some research, I attempt to fix the problem by flipping my V8 motor mounts backwards and moving the engine forward for more clearance. With the V8 swap back on track, I move on to the remote oil filter and long tube header fitment and get this project just a bit closer to the first start.
00:00 - Intro
00:53 - 1968 Mustang Motor Mount Installation
02:43 - 4R70W 1968 Mustang Swap
03:43 - 4R70W Swap Crossmember Problems
06:12 - 5.0 Swap 1968 Mustang Oil Pan Problems
11:46 - 1968 Mustang Engine Mount Replacement
13:47 - 5.0 Swap Custom Engine Mount Modification
15:26 - 68 Mustang 4R70W Swap Crossmember Installation
17:17 - Explorer 5.0 Remote Oil Filter Cooler Removal
19:20 - Explorer 5.0 Fuel Line Removal
19:30 - Ford 5.0 Swap Long Tube Header Test Fit
23:44 - 1968 Mustang Header Power Steering Cylinder Problem - Auta a dopravní prostředky
just binge watched almost all your vids over the last like 2 weeks🤣
I like it man! I’ll keep the new episodes coming 👍
Nice! Looks like Ford Explorer floor mats in the garage! Good touch!
The make nice little mats to lay on when working under the car 👍
Hey there, I'm doing the 4R70W swap in a 65 Fastback myself. The 4R70W has a slightly deeper(longer) bell housing than the AOD. So it's longer overall than the AOD. The trans cross member you bought, it may have been designed for only the AOD. Swapping the engine mounts, solved yer trans mount problem, while worsening yer steering ram interference issue.. You will less room for you radiator and fan combo, though, with the right parts, is still easily overcome. Ron Morris makes custom engine mounts, that provide like an 1 1/2" for to aft adjustability, as well an 1" or so up and down. Though yer swapped stock mount trick, is epic !!! That said, I bought the Ron Morris mount, for that flexibility. I also installed the Borgeson power steering box as well, cannot recommend it enough, good clean product.
I'll be watching you pal, that nervous laugh, is hysterical !!!! You just earned a subscriber !!
Keep at it brother!!!
Thanks man! That makes a LOT of sense, I'm pretty sure that swap crossmember was listed as an AOD. I actually thought I had AOD-E early on in the build due to some confusion with a Ford parts department. Been learning about this Ford stuff as I go along. Haha.
Whew, had me nervous for a while lol
Good job
great content today, lots of R & D for this swap.
Thanks! I do spend a LOT of time in forums, and on CZcams. Haha.
@@noboltsleftbehind it sure helps having youtube, when doing some jobs. The old Chilton manuals were good, but they only like doing things by the book. engine swaps don't like the book way. 🙂
Nice video. Just a thought from a novice, I had a friend that had a Ford Explorer and the whole top end of the motor grenaded because his motor had some plastic parts in the valve train that break and cause the timing to jump and the valves hit the pistons. Not sure what year or size motor but I know it is a known issue on some of the Explorer engines. He replaced the motor with a used one and had his mechanic replace the plastic parts with aftermarket metal ones so it didn't happen again. Just thought you might want to look into it if it applies to your engine and replace while you're repowering. It might have been a plastic timing chain tensioner?
Yikes, that’s good to know. I’ll definitely look into that, thanks for the heads up.
That is the timing belt on the 3rd generation explorer. 3rd generation had cassettes plastic parts, the 5.0 has metal timing chain.
Thanks for clarifying. I knew it was an issue with some Explorer engines but didn't know which.@@marcoflores3846
I would make sure to weld the bungs for the oxygen sensors.
You might consider heat wrapping the headers.
24:36 is that a crack in your frame? 😦 looks like you made everything fit perfect! Looks great!
Yeah, someone else pointed that out too. I totally didn't notice it when I was working on it
The trans pan you can swap to a 2wd pan no dimple sump flat bottom.
Mine was a 2wd transmission, is it an aftermarket one you’re referring to?
If you upgrade to a Borgeson steering system, you will not have that issue with power steering ram. I have it on my 67 and it clears nicely because you don't have that stuff any longer!
Are you planning on centering your rear end? I did it and do not regret it. It isnt necessary but it opened up wider wheel choices for me.
I really am enjoying your videos and your nervous laugh gets me everytime. Thanks man and stay greasy.
I’m really considering the Borgeson setup, I’d really like to reduce the complexity and I’m concerned about how the pressure and return lines move with the steering valve when the car turns. Wasn’t planning on modifying the diff, did you do the cut/weld the axle tube and use two passenger side axles?
@@noboltsleftbehind Cut and weld routine, it really wasn't hard just time.consuming. Best of luck to you in whatever you decide to do.
on many types of engine swaps, "the transmission tunnel" (floor hump) should be removed and modified to fit around the new engine and transmission.
you might want to think about making a heat shied between the headers and the trans
just use some Aluminum sheet metal
That’s not a bad idea
I always thought you had to swap k frame members when going from online to v8 to put the engine in correct placement
First gen Mustangs don’t really have k-members, the engine mounts are right on the frame and as far as I know there’s no difference between 6 or 8 cylinder cars.
@@noboltsleftbehind so what frame and engine mounts did you use? Just stock for a ‘68? I plan to do this same swap but use a newer 5.0 98-99 so it has gt-40 heads
@@jasonmatvey7308 yes, just stock ‘68 Mustang brackets and mounts for a small block Windsor. FYI, the 96-97 have GT40 heads and the 98+ have GT40P heads.
Where did you get your engine/frame mounts? I am doing a 5.0 swap into my '75 Maverick, and the only ones I found were off of AutoKrafters
I found mine on ebay, they were about 100 bucks for the pair
I wonder whether the left/right markings were based on sitting behind the wheel or standing in front of the car looking at the motor? Its a beautiful day for me in Huntington Beach and I hope your Saturday is going great.
Thank you sir! It’s nice here too only a few miles north of you. Not sure which direction the markings are supposed to be from but the half full of photos I found online showed everyone with their mounts in the set back position so I think it was “correct” the first way.
@@noboltsleftbehindleft is always driver's side
Is the explorer computer going to be flashed to also run the 4R70W? or are you going to have a stand alone controller like usshift from baumann electronic controllers???
I’m assuming the PCM is going to run the 4R70W as is, since it all came out of the Explorer together.
Which oil pan did you get for this conversion?
I just used a generic stock small block Windsor oil pan for a ‘68 Mustang
I think I’ve seen where someone used the transmission tale shaft from an AOD on the AODe. Also, did you put the frame mounts for the motor on the right side, never seen an oil pan hit that crossmember? Asked that half way through the video 😅 should have watched until the end.
Haha. The tailshaft wasn’t the giving me much of a problem, it was the transmission oil pan that was hitting the crossmember. Of course flipping the motor mounts solved both issues so who knows.
@@noboltsleftbehind don’t recall if you said your using an electronic speedo or cable, I think that’s where the tail shaft swap comes into play.
@@wolfthornhawkridge5705 ah ok. I’lm gonna try and use the original mechanical one but I think there may be some sort of funky dual manual/electronic sensor thing for the 4R70W? I’m still researching that
When you were underneath wriggling the left hand header I noticed a 1 inch crack in the chassis. Have you seen it ?
No I haven’t! What time in the video do you see it?
23.45 onwards. The crack runs from what appears to be a 1/2 inch diameter hole to the edge. There appears to be a crack a few inches to the right of it but it could be a rusty weld.
@@noboltsleftbehind you can see it clearly on the right of the screen at 23.54 and center screen at 24.05, the rearmost hole the bracket bolts onto.
@@85waspnest thanks for catching that, I have no idea how I missed it. I’ll make sure to weld it up
@@noboltsleftbehind You're welcome. Missing things is easy when focused on something else. Glad to help you, all the way from England. I'm interested in your project as I owned a 6 cylinder 1968 Mustang Coupe back in 1976.
Your 96 explorer does not have the p-heads, therefore, the long headers will fit.
What year is the explorer engine and transmission?
It’s a 1996
ok when doing a bronco/f150 there was something that had to be done to the crossmember mount and i dont remember what ill look it up. sent you a message on ig. may help. looks like its a longer trans slightly
Thanks man, I appreciate it
@@noboltsleftbehind anytime bro