Ep 19 - Planking (part 3): Spiling + Fastening
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2022
- In this third and final installment in the planking series, I discuss the spiling and riveting procedures in detail. Spiling in a scribing technique for determining the shape of the plank, and riveting is a means of fastening the planks together.
Then, finally, the planked hull moves with me and my family to Virginia!
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Great craftsmanship!
Great description!
Holy smokes I just stumbled across this video after reading a section in The Dory Book I was confused about. Your learning aids, editing, commentary, along with the time and hard work it takes to build a boat this is a true feat. Can’t wait to binge these videos. Good work
Thank you!
Best description I’ve seen - well done! I’ve subscribed.
Thank you for this series. Very well explained. Looking forward for more on this beautiful boat 👍
You are an excellent communicator! I'm talking about top of the food chain. I learn a lot from your videos, but equally importantly, I enjoy the simple, clear, effective ways you explain complex processes and ideas. Nice!
Thank you for the wonderful feedback!
Excellent Job, wonderfull project, wish you all the best for the future!
Welcome to Virginia. My wife and I drove right past you yesterday coming back from the beach. Hope that you settle in well here
Moving a work shop and setting back up is a task.
Thanks! Wow small world
This was a very detailed video I'm sure it took you awhile to make I really enjoyed learning from
Thanks for the feedback!
A work of art. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback!
Excellent video cheers! Your explanations and diagrams (which must have taken you some work by the way!) were really informative. Engaging video & The boats looking great. Thanks again!
Thanks for the awesome feedback!
Excellent description of the spiling process. When I read Thomas Hill's book Ultralight Boatbuilding in the days long before the internet, I couldn't grasp the concept as he explained it in words with some drawings. Of course I've learned since then from various videos, but I thought you've done a very good job of breaking it down. The globe analogy in particular was an excellent example.
Thanks so much for your feedback!
Same for me.
Building a Sea Bright skiff by that method in the 90's I recall measuring upper and lower plank margin offsets at each station mold from a centerline drawn on the spiling batten and recording on a chart
Found you by accident. Excellent video. You have a new subscriber.
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback
There is yet another method of putting together a spiling batten that won't spring out of shape. Run a narrow batten and tack it to where the lower edge of the plank needs to be, then another above it tacked to where the upper edge of the finished plank needs to be. Then using cheap re-usable 5mm Luan underlayment, cut it into roughly correct widths, and hot glue these plank widths over the top between these two battens. The Luan can be cut a bit wide and overhang, no problem since the batten edges, not the Luan, preserves the shape. It can be cut into 5 ft lengths or whatever and butted to the next one as long as the hot glue is good on the battens near the joints. This way you construct a full-length mock plank of the exact finished dimension. You dispense entirely with the whole compass arc nonsense, and you just remove the whole fake plank and trace directly onto the next board. That next plank when finished is in turn traced onto the starboard mating stock and a plank made for that side as well. The hot glue is weak and allows you to just pull the whole thing apart and re-use everything for the next dummy plank- ...assuming you use the weak craft glue sticks.
The big benefit of Lapedstrakes is the plank can be spiled by bending the board onto the hull and simply tracing the shape of the plank onto the next, it is is a forgiving process and the lap allows for a large amount of adjustment in hanging the plank!
Cheers, from the ole tyme dory builders of Massachusetts.
Murphy & Madison, Excellent video and explanation (as always)--and a help. I have my garboards on--and I thought these would be the most difficult planks with things getting easier as I climbed the boat. But plank #2 has been a bear. The problem is side-slip. The plank slips up the lap 1/2" when it is bent into the stem, so there is only a 1/4" on the lap. Like you, I put a dog leg in my spiling batten but to no avail. I kept at it--ultimately cutting out 7 half planks (I'm planking with ply so I cut out 8' sections at a time) and all slide slipped regardless of how careful I was, how I laid the batten, or the shape of the batten. I kept at it because I wanted to figure out how to spile accurately so I didn't have this problem with the remaining 15 planks. In the end, I gave up and just shaped a plank out of scrap ply right on the boat and then used it as a pattern for the plank on good stock. The two things you did differently that I will try are 1) your spiling batten more closely resembled the full plank than mine did. Question: did you remake your spiling batten for every plank as their shape changed? and 2) you placed the batten on the lap of the previous plank. I will be back at it today--I'll let you know how it goes.
Good luck in Virginia! And thanks, Russell
1) Yes, the spiling batten was composed of four sections if I recall. For each new plank pair effectively a new spiling batten was constructed. I cut out a selection of shapes so I could string together the best approximation of the plank shape. The idea again is to have the spiling batten as relaxed as possible when on the boat so it does not have any tendency to distort once off the boat.
2) yes, it’s important that the spiling batten lay on the bevel of the previous plank. The spiling batten really is a proxy for the actual plank. The better it approximates the lay of the plank on the moulds and lap, the more accurate the spiling. The lap bevel is very important to the angle at which the plank will lay when finally installed on the boat. Think of it this way. The most perfect spiling batten is the plank itself. The more plank-like the batten, the better it approximates the lay of the plank. You really want the batten to “see” all the peculiarities of the hull curvature AND to respond to those peculiarities as plank-ily as possible. Too noodly of a batten will assume twists and curves that an actual plank won’t.
@@neophyteboatwrights Thanks, Murphy, for your reply. I think I figured out the problem--my lap-to-gain transition on the fitted plank was poorly cut and it forced the plank to slip. In addition--the gains didn't come together well. They did when both planks were flat on the bench, but on the boat, the edge (gain) of the upper plank meets the gain of the lower plank at a different angle than it did when on the bench, consequently both opening up a gap between the gains and forcing the plank out of alignment. When I re-angled the gains and cleaned up the lap the plank fit much better--not perfectly but adequately. In any case, I will do as you have suggested with the subsequent planks--working with a more plank-like batten. It is curious that in none of Walter's descriptions of spiling does he suggest such a batten. I super appreciate your help. Thanks.
One trick is to leave extra material on the plank edges, test fit the plank to the boat then mark the final line to trim to on the boat, using your eye to find the fair curve. You can mark the lower lap line from the inside, take the plank off and use a little block, whatever depth your lap is, to extend that line down to the rough cut line.
This is a great series. I really appreciate the way you explain things. What program do you use to create the animations?
Thanks! Adobe illustrator and after effects primarily
I really like the detailed explanation. Will the seams between the planks be watertight? In traditional boats wool with tar would be used to seal the planks.
Caulking - filling seam with wool and tar - is used more commonly with carvel planked boats. In the Scandinavian traditions I’ve seen wool and tar used to bed the ends of the planks and gains, but not usually the entire plank. Lapstrake planking, where the planks overlap, relies on the natural swelling of the wood in water and tight fitting joinery to create the watertight seal.
@@neophyteboatwrights Would it be fair to assume that any waterproofing/caulking would be done from the inside on a lapstrake boat?
@@bencristofani3116 Ben,
Actually the opposite is true. a common practice is to cut a little channel between the plank laps on the outside and add a bedding compound to help reinforce the seal. This is less conspicuous than doing it on the inside
@@neophyteboatwrights Interesting, also the boat is looking beautiful. Cheers
Forget the socket and just drill a hole in your bucking iron just larger than your rivet. Simple.
does it matter what the thickness of the spiling batten is? can a thin piece be used, or does it need to be the same thickness as the plank?
Generally thinner, but plywood is stiffer so it behaves more like a thicker cedar. The plywood also is less likely to edgewise distortion
Side set.......or edge set? I've never heard it called side set before now.
Yeah you’re right. Edge set is the correct term, although side set certainly conveys the same info. Not to discount the importance of terminology (I’m a big fan), but I’m going give myself a pass on this one. I am, after all, a neophyte.
If you can tell us about the role and importance of diagonal
So a diagonal is what you’d get if a waterline and a buttock line had a baby. It’s a cross section of the hull that is oblique to both the vertical and horizontal axes. Diagonals are useful bc they give you even more data (or constraints) on the hull shape. They interrelate waterline and buttock line data. This is especially useful in the case of a particularly shapely hull, where some curvature data may be missed by waterlines and buttock lines. In the end, the more constraints on the hull shape, the more accurate the lofting.
I would never use PU glue on a boat!
I suspect something has happened as this was 6 months ago and no more videos have been posted.
I will be putting out an update post soon
Where your buddy gone?
In Florida
Oh I hope you guys are still ok. Your project is amazing well done for keeping these skills alive.
Pet peeve: there is no such thing as “predrilling” . All drilling happens before something else happens. Otherwise excellent video!
Fair enough
Not how professionals do any of this.
Cool