I need to replace two locks. I was given two GSA classified document safes. One had 6 holes drilled and the entire lock was removed. The door opens and closes with a turn of the handle. The other, had the dial removed and one hole drilled. A safe guy showed me how/ where to drill, to drive the deadbolt out. I got through the 3/8” door plate but could not drill the inner box around the lock. I was able to blow through that with my plasma torch. All holes will filled with welding. The safe I had to drill and torch, had what was left of a Mosler PRK-302? I have photos. What I need to know is the mounting hole dimensions of a S&G 6730. I’m having trouble finding that info by internet search. There are 4 threaded holes on the inside of the box holding the lock that were used to mount the Mosler. I would be a big help to find a lock that uses the same hole spacing dimensions! If you have that info or can direct me I would appreciate it tremendously. I can share photos of both doors if you need.
The mounting holes for safe locks are standard. You should be able to use the same footprint. I do recommend using a certified safe tech to install locks you will depend on.
Nice video man! Just subscribed. Doesnt the dial have a bit too much play in it? It seems a bit wobbly but it might just seem like that. A tip for more precise reading: tape a piece of paper with a corner pointing down where you read the numbers. Its a bit tighter than the standard pointer and really makes things easier on the eyes.
The mount is not perfect, but it is pretty straight forward for manipulation. I noticed that the mounts with the metal inserts seem to hold the lock more secure.
Hi there- question- have you worked with any locks that have a relocker that has a pin on the end that inserts into the side of the bolt instead sitting in a groove on the side of the bolt like in this video? Long story less long, I have a family member's old Remington Rand file cabinet/ safe with an S & G group 1 lock with an 'arrow knob' in the center of the dial. It was left unlocked [yay!] so I could cheat and take the back off the lock. I figured out the combination since I can see the wheels [genius that I am....] but I'm not sure what the trick is to the relocker. It wants to sit with the pin in the bolt- even when the back is on and putting pressure on the opposite end of the relocker. I'm not sure if it's missing a piece or what. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Nice video i have a question is it possible to get a copy or photo of your graphing sheet ..i have just started learning to manupilate ..and your sheet was so informative
@@grainorice8293 Ok thank you for the answer i think i use your video to make a sheet .. another question i did get a sparrow vault is this Good to start with...i did see your video about change to 7641
@@kentlundberg I like the idea of the vault. You will be able to lern manipulation with it. I would recommend a moounted cutaway lock from MBA as your next. You will feel a big differance.
This one takes me a little under two hours. I'm not as fast as others and I don't practice consistently. I know of some that can manipulate these locks in 10 min.
Great video again, thanks for showing ;o))
Any time. Thanks.
Excelente video,excelente informacion
Thank you
Awesome!!!
Wonderful decoding !!!!
Just subscribed to your channel.
Great video!!!! Stay safe!!!
👍🐈👍🐾👏😷
No pun intended :) Thanks.
@@grainorice8293 how to crack lagard3332?
@@user-bu8zz9yy7l Very similar. I think there is other channels that talk about that lock.
@@grainorice8293 I can't find a way, and I can't find any.
I need to replace two locks. I was given two GSA classified document safes. One had 6 holes drilled and the entire lock was removed. The door opens and closes with a turn of the handle.
The other, had the dial removed and one hole drilled.
A safe guy showed me how/ where to drill, to drive the deadbolt out.
I got through the 3/8” door plate but could not drill the inner box around the lock. I was able to blow through that with my plasma torch. All holes will filled with welding.
The safe I had to drill and torch, had what was left of a Mosler PRK-302? I have photos.
What I need to know is the mounting hole dimensions of a S&G 6730. I’m having trouble finding that info by internet search.
There are 4 threaded holes on the inside of the box holding the lock that were used to mount the Mosler. I would be a big help to find a lock that uses the same hole spacing dimensions!
If you have that info or can direct me I would appreciate it tremendously.
I can share photos of both doors if you need.
The mounting holes for safe locks are standard. You should be able to use the same footprint. I do recommend using a certified safe tech to install locks you will depend on.
Nice video man! Just subscribed. Doesnt the dial have a bit too much play in it? It seems a bit wobbly but it might just seem like that. A tip for more precise reading: tape a piece of paper with a corner pointing down where you read the numbers. Its a bit tighter than the standard pointer and really makes things easier on the eyes.
The mount is not perfect, but it is pretty straight forward for manipulation. I noticed that the mounts with the metal inserts seem to hold the lock more secure.
Hi there- question- have you worked with any locks that have a relocker that has a pin on the end that inserts into the side of the bolt instead sitting in a groove on the side of the bolt like in this video? Long story less long, I have a family member's old Remington Rand file cabinet/ safe with an S & G group 1 lock with an 'arrow knob' in the center of the dial. It was left unlocked [yay!] so I could cheat and take the back off the lock. I figured out the combination since I can see the wheels [genius that I am....] but I'm not sure what the trick is to the relocker. It wants to sit with the pin in the bolt- even when the back is on and putting pressure on the opposite end of the relocker. I'm not sure if it's missing a piece or what. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
I've only had experience with common relockers.
Where did you get your mount for this setup, can’t seem to find one
Thanks buddy.
I get them from MBA (mbausa.com/training-aids/lock-mounts-for-training/)
Thanks!!!
Nice video i have a question is it possible to get a copy or photo of your graphing sheet ..i have just started learning to manupilate ..and your sheet was so informative
I don't think I have the sheet for that video any more. Sorry.
@@grainorice8293 Ok thank you for the answer i think i use your video to make a sheet .. another question i did get a sparrow vault is this Good to start with...i did see your video about change to 7641
@@kentlundberg I like the idea of the vault. You will be able to lern manipulation with it. I would recommend a moounted cutaway lock from MBA as your next. You will feel a big differance.
@@grainorice8293 thank you for the answer have a nice day
So.... with your edits....how long was the actual time to open?
This one takes me a little under two hours. I'm not as fast as others and I don't practice consistently. I know of some that can manipulate these locks in 10 min.
After the S&G which would be more educational, the Lagard 3300 or Big Red CDL3?
You're good either way. Pick up one and then then other latter on. Watch out for Lagard 3300 knock offs though.
@@grainorice8293 The 3300 from MBAUSA should be reputable. thanks
@@educatebo MBA is a great site and great people too.
Not good with last number (wheel 3) set in the forbidden zone -- fortunately no lock in or lock out
My wife is the combo setter and she is learning along with me. We were lucky.