Van Conversion Cabinets that are (actually) Lightweight and Maximize Storage
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- I hope you find this video useful. This 2022 Mercedes Sprinter 4x4 camper van conversion is finally taking shape which is exciting!
If you’ve read that 80/20 builds lightweight cabinets…well it does compared to traditionaly built wood cabinets. I cover why 80/20 doesn't yield a great product, and what wood construction concepts and techniques I utilize.
This is my opinion and experience on the topic. I demonstrate why wood cabinets can be lighter, be plenty strong, and be much more efficient for storage than aluminum framed options.
0:00 Intro
0:58 Let’s talk about 80/20 Aluminum Extrusions
1:28 Weight comparison of my wood cabinets to 80/20
6:49 Realistic perspective on 80/20 strength
7:44 Building with 80/20 is easy
8:21 80/20 storage efficiency
9:52 Plywood selection and weight considerations
11:49 Using thin sheets necessitates using wood glue
13:07 How to use thin materials in a strong way
15:05 Cabinet construction examples
17:47 Aesthetics and unique options with self veneered panels
19:15 Drawer design to reduce weight even further
If you found this entertaining, educational or even enraging, consider buying me a coffee...or a beer;). Please use the link:
www.buymeacoffee.com/projecto...
Thank you for your support!
If you live in the Pacific Northwest two great woodshops:
Edensaw: www.edensaw.com
Continental Hardwood: www.continentalhardwood.com
Everything I know and ever needed for veneering: www.veneersupplies.com and joewoodworker.com
Best scale for weighing odd shaped objects: amzn.to/3klA0Cp - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This dude needs more recognition....
Thank you!
No kidding - It’s unfortunate that vans built with marble counters and stone walls get more recognition than something with good engineering and solid craftsmanship.
Very informative, thank you for the post.
He is new on yt. He will rise to the surface, don’t worry.
He's just too stealthy!😂
Everything this man said is the gospel truth. My biggest "van life" peeve is watching guys use 3/4" plywood on everything like they're building a kitchen cabinet for a house.
This guy is brilliant, entertaining, accurate, knowledgeable, mathematical and left handed 😂.
For those that don't understand engineering structures and shapes that give different kinds of strength you've done an EXCELLENT job of explaining it.
I’ve no interest in building cabinets but watched this the whole way through totally fascinated . Great job 👏
Dude's earned my business - subscribed...
Years ago I built a teardrop trailer. I wanted to build light, but things kept adding up and it turned out to be a heavy beast. I wish I could have watched a video like this before starting out. The regret of building heavy lasts as long as you own it. 😐
I'm a cabinetmaker and I've done 4 van conversions. There are two major issues that seem to be ignored by van builders - the first one is the weight of the cabinets and your comments here are very good. The other issue is one of ergonomics - how often I've seen seating, particularly bench seats with a vertical backrest and a flat base - not in any way comfortable.
Any tips? :)
@@3jcb123 110° between seat & backrest not 90°. Angle the base to match the height - it should not lift your feet off the floor but should support both front & back.
Experiment with clamps & bits of board to see if you can refine it to suit yourself better. (More upright & higher seat for working or eating, less upright for relaxing).
Dealing with that issue right now.. I ripped it all out...
@@WizzRacing
The results of your attention to ergonomics will benefit all who use the benches.
Hopefully, they will appreciate all that you have invested in creating quality.
I’m always wondering about upright seating at 90 degrees angle. Looks uncomfortable.
Love the common sense and engineering that combined with top quality woodworking!
As a craftsman who also builds out Adventure Vehicles, I can honestly say…this person is so accurate and spot on with their information on good construction techniques for lightweight cabinets. Only thing I could add is to use nylon glides for those wood drawers.
That might make them slide a bit too easily, so you'll also need to add latches to stop them sliding open while you're driving.
Soap on the slide area would work too (no weight)
A good wax of the sliding surfaces works great! I do that for my circular saw rip fence track guide.
Could you explain show an example of your nylon guide?
@@nagualdesign You will always need some kind of latches or other drawer securing technique. You can't make a drawer så hard to slide that it is road safe and at the same time make it usable. I mean you can manage it by luck or only driving really carefully but if you are going on an adventure, there will be some tough movement.
Aircraft interiors need this type of super light cabinets.
Every once matters.
So many van converters use ply that is too thick and too heavy and replicate their cabinets at home. That’s fine if you don’t have to move your home around! It’s about time van converters realised that caravan manufacturers (especially in the uk), use a framework and then clad in 3mm ply in most cases because our caravans need to be towed about. I’m using framework in mine.
Yes I found this vid very interesting, I am a retired carpenter but even at my age I can still learn of talented people
I've just completed a pre-trade joinery course, and although I enjoy working with "real" wood, I'm convinced you can do heaps with thin ply for cabinets. When I see CZcamsr van builders use 3/4" and 1/2" ply for all the cabinets...and them soft close, heavy duty drawer runners - the weight of it all😮 This guy is a master at creating beautiful, strong, lightweight cabinetry.
Thinks, are you single Angela? 🙄
Why are you asking? 🙄@@jupiteradventure5284
What a great video! I've been completely sold on the idea of using 80/20, but he info here really changes my mind.
My project cost just went down 98% thanks to this video! Thank you so much!!! ❤
You gotta love people who are so committed to improving their craft, and attaining such a high level of craft performance. Phenomenal presentation. Thanks for sharing with the van/truck conversion community.
I used to build seaworthy sailboat furniture out of mahogany and teak veneered plywoods and solids. Once the plywood furniture was fiberglassed to the hull it was almost indestructible. You overloaded it up with canning and all the stuff you need and it withheld everything through any storm. Wood is solid when used properly and much prettier!😊
I really like your approach, a good friend of mine owns a yacht wood supply company (Seafarer Marine of Ft. Lauderdale) that uses a vacuum table to veneer many panels. They produce lightweight stable panels for high-quality joinery work. I really admire your skills as a cabinet-making carpenter.
The list of benefits he rattled off are not theoretical. As an engineer that used to race cars, and now drives a van, I can assure you these measures make for a safer, more enjoyable, and more off-road capable ride. Ever wonder why you always see RVs on the side of the road changing a tire? Weight. (Ok and aged tires). Ditch the giant bumper and other off-road ornaments as well. Stellar job on those finger jointed 1/4 ply drawer boxes - not easy.
We should be friends!
I’ve never understood the 80/20 fascination mainly because of the ineffeciency in space use, thanks for actually calculating just how bad it is!
Probably because people who use 8020 are less concerned with optimising use of space than they are with optimising ease of construction.
@@jasonhendrickson2289 Yea, exactly. The skill and tools (look at his shop) required are not really DIY. I am pretty handy generally, but even if I had his shop I doubt I could build those cabinets unfortunately. Beautiful stuff tho.
You are an incredibly skilled craftsman and I love your 8020 rant! Your work is beautiful! Thank you for sharing!
My thoughts are that you are correct, light is right. However we built our conversion with thin wall welded steel square box, with 3mm ply screwed to the frame. Two reasons for this. 1. This is my skill set! 2. Crash protection. Wooden cabinets perform very badly in a crash situation and you will end up with that fridge in the back of your head in a head on. Steel frame bolted to the chassis is better for this in my mind. I know it’s worse case scenario but you spend 95% of the time parked when weight does not matter. So like you say do what suits you. Your cabinets are beautiful and thanks so much for taking the time to share your skills. 🏴🏴🏴
Wow! I can’t believe how much I learned from you about math, wood, building cabinets, finishing….I want to build out a ProMaster City - I know my exact layout but since I am a senior woman with no building skills 🙁 I wish I could find someone like you who knows what they are doing! This video is one of the most enjoyable on the details of building that I’ve watched - thank you for shooting it!
It is a lot of work so it is hard to find a friend who is willing to do it but with the rise in popularity of vanlife, there are plenty of companies that do van builds. Check around in your area but make sure you check the reviews of the companies so you don't hire some low skilled ones.
Just read some of the comments and I can’t believe some of the negativity. People who are doubting his methods do not understand the principles behind them, they definitely work and will be as good as units form thicker stock if not better, because they are designed better, think about cantilever bridges and how they are designed it’s all about using materials to there strengths, that’s what he’s doing.
I’ve been a traditional woodworker my whole life, but I have not seen a presentation regarding Poplar core plywood as thorough as yours. I am planning to build a gypsy Vardo and will be definitely sourcing some of this plywood for cabinetry. Thanks a ton.
Thank you! Good luck with your build!
We are currently building a Vardo style van, ( our third build). My neighbor built a van of 80/20 and it was almost undrivable it was so heavy.
I am no carpenter, nor cabinetmaker, but I am building an interior for my 5' X 10' cargo-to-camper-trailer conversion. A goal is to use exclusively baltic birch ply for everything in the trailer. Galley shelves, cabinets, drawers, bunk/storage... I started with 1/4" (6mm?) baltic birch that I have finished with clear shellac for all of the walls and interior door skins and have become enamored with it.
I had planned to use 1/2" (12 or 13mm) baltic birch for the bunk structure (fixed, with storage underneath)... but what I may do is go to more 1/4" and beef the edges against bending (and for "beam") w/ strips of 1/2" as you utilize in your AMAZING cabinet work. I was so tickled to watch this video I nearly sheetmahpaynts. I love it. THANK you for sharing your craftsmanship with us. I have subscribed.
Brings engineering to woodwork and well explained.
This is great. I built a Ford Econoline into a camper when I was 16. I've been a carpenter virtually my whole life. Now I am (waiting for the snow to go away and weather to warm a bit) renovating a 14 foot travel trailer that I NEVER should have bought just so I can get rid of it and move on to what I really want to do, which is to build my own trailer on top of a flat bed. At the same time I'm putting together a workshop, since we just now got into a house with a two-car garage. So I have a lot to do and will probably never reach your level. But if the trailer build goes well I may go into van conversions/trailer builds as a way to bring in some cash, and something to do during retirement. This is all good information I can use to reach that goal. PLUS I can see you're a climber and biker... two of my passions as well. Cheers dude, and thanks!
Damn man! I thought I had a lot going on. I'm a pretty miserable aluminum welder but that has been a curiosity of mine: build a super lightweight travel trailer. Thanks you!
I really needed and loved this video.
I'm an aviation enthusiast, model airplane builder, and also I build my own furniture at home (used a lot of MDF for cabinets, and build a sofa and some nests with 10mm and 15mm plywood).
I'm planning to build a campervan in the future, so I'm watching lots of videos.
I've been seeing camper van builders using 15mm MDF and lots of heavy accessories, or even using 15mm plywood on anythng.
That really annoys me, because MDF is very dense and when you have something moving you want it to be as light as possible due to performance, driving dynamics, safety, fuel economy, better range, less pollution, saving tires, saving shocks, staying in max gross weight and so on.
I've been thinking in ways to save weight and this video confirmed all my ideas and gave me dozens more to work on.
Thank you for your consideration of weight! I am using a hybrid combination of aluminum angle, wood and plastic, though your approach is having me reevaluate some of my choices. My biggest limit is tools and workshop space - I've built jigs, etc., to make my hand tools more accurate, yet some of your craftsmanship is beyond my capabilities.
Another consideration that occupies my worries is prompted by watching the (few) RV crash test videos. Lighter is much better in a crash, almost always. Your explanation of forces is very helpful when imagining a crash.
Thank you!
I agree 100% I feel that no one takes weight into account when building out their Van. I love to work with wood and I was considering using 2020 for my van. You have given me a lot to think about now. I have been remodeling an RV and after taking things apart I have a new respect for weight savings. I can’t wait to start my build … again.
Haha. I think weight is talked about a lot but not is done much about it. First video: "You want to make sure your van isn't too heavy." Every video after: "watch me build a 4000 lb conversion."
@@projectofscience I subscribed I will watch all of your videos. But I will most likely build out of wood instead of Aluminum or I might combine i.e. Cabinets and such out of wood, Bed/bench out of Aluminum. Best of both.
There is a guy on CZcams that builds out of foam boards. He does a very good job showing all the strength tests and proving they are just as good, actually better, than wood.
Can you name the channel, please?
I liked and subscribed at the first viewing!
"Van Conversion Cabinets that are (actually) Lightweight and Maximize Storage" brought back memories of working in the garage and on the parking space with my daddy back in the eighties. I especially liked the toopic chapter (13:07- 15:04) labeled "How to Use Thin Materials in a Strong Way". The content creator provided an excellent explanation of the six types of stressors on materials. Useful information provided in the description as well.
Watching this video was time well used.
It's about time someone made a video like this. I framed my cabinets from 80/20, but had a friend who is an excellent woodworker help me with the wood aspects. He had never worked with 80/20 before and had some similar thoughts that you shared. At the end of the day he indicated that, as an experienced woodworker with a garage full of woodworking tools, he could beat an 80/20 design on weight and space efficiency. But he also said the average guy probably could not, and his wood designs would not match the 80/20 strength in the event of a vehicle accident. I would be interested in experimenting with an 80/20 carcass but some lightweight wood elements internally (where the high strength is not needed) for things like drawer slide mounts, drawer latch beams, etc to save material, weight and cost. Thanks for the video.
with 8020 you either need to do proper calculation before ordering extrusions or you'll need some tools (e.g. mitersaw and thread tapers), the cost of a mistake is high. The other thing is vibration that can make all screws unscrew (so you have to apply a threadlocker). I built a small bed frame for a highlander out of 8020 (10 series), and it is heavy as hell probably around 45-50 lb (but super solid I have to admit). Next time I will build out of plywood or plywood laminated foam, cost of all those bolts and nuts adds up and the build becomes quite expensive. For a case of an accident I would prefer something less heavy even if you anchor it properly.
“… in the event of an accident …”
No matter 8020 hold… as long as the kitchen sink don’t fly through my skull when I brake in an emergency, wood cabinet will be enough.
When driving around with your house in the back, you can’t expect the crash test rating of a modern commuter car.
What about humidity? The wood expands and contracts with weather and humidity. Is it still durable and sturdy?
I'm thinking of having a van one day and I'm looking at all options for storage materials, affordability and practical.
@@raquelkhadiri162 in my experience expansion is not an issue.
If you were building the gaps so tight a layer of paint would stop it working maybe expansion would be a problem but the sort of gaps us mere mortals can manage there's plenty of room for expansion.
@@raquelkhadiri162 where humidity _is_ a problem is the glues they use to make plywood - interior grade plywood won't cope with a winter in a van, the glue dissolves & leaves all the layers to separate. Use "WBP", "exterior" or "marine" plywood & if you can get them to admit what glue they're using phenolic or melamine are the best.
I used 10-series 80/20. I liked working with it. Like advanced legos.I liked it for framing up my heavier items, like 29 gallon interior water tank, water heater, and batteries. It has been rock solid for 6 years now. That said I only used it for base cabinets. All upper cabinets are soft fabric. Great video though. I agree that 15-series is totally overkill.
OMG! My friends think I'm crazy for obsessing over a few pounds of weight.... I have a new hero! 🙂 Awesome work my friend! Understanding stresses vs function is so lacking in most builds... Building several homebuilt airplanes, I became obsessed with weight; the easiest variable to trim.... I considered 80/20 for a new van, as I had seen some nice builds, but always noticed unusable space as an additional penalty to weight. I have built a minimalist Odyssey van, with all the comforts of a big RV, except for standing room, and still maintained the 23mpg highway mileage. My dream is to build a long wheelbase hi-roof Ford Transit, tasteful in presentation, but opulent only in function, and preserve the potential gas mileage and safety margin of a lighter vehicle, still capable of a reasonable trailer tow. A most duplicatable & saleable proposition.... I must come up and visit you! Hands down, the best I've seen. Keep up the good work and videos. Oh and take a break to enjoy your handiwork too!
OMG! My friends think I'm crazy for obsessing over a few pounds of weight #metoo - but I learned a harsh lesson 23 years ago - now on my build I'm watching every gram - even on my cutlery!
I'm not a good enough woodworker to build like you do, but I do agree that it is the correct way to do it.
One thing you might want to look into is making "sliderails" under your drawers from PTFE sheets, you can find them thin as paper and hoe thick you need.
I had a scrap pice I put under a wooden box that sometimes would bind, and now it feels like it is on lubricated rails
lol i read that as hoe thick cause it made sense haha
You had me at cases and cases of beer...
I would so love to have a small cabinet from you!
You are so interesting and the only one bringing these factors into view for us. Thank you
I built with 1" insulation board because of weight, and safety in an accident. My space lost was more than yours, and it's definitely not as polished, but even in a rollover catastrophic accident, I'm not having a javelin in my head.
Don't see enough people recognize this.
Anything heavy is stored low. Each piece is held in place by direct attachment and by friction fit (like puzzle pieces).
You are an amazing craftsperson, and your maths and sciences are much better than my reasoning, but I felt a kinship in seeing something most people ignore.
Thanks!
This! My concerns exactly.
This is brilliant information and guidance, but beyond the capabilities and experience of a DIY-er. I am examining my inclination to use 80/20 now, even if I can’t build to this ideal.
Wooden drawer slides are fantastic, look at any old school cabinetry! Like you said the weight savings just eliminating drawer slides is considerable, plus there's space savings and huge cost savings as well! You can also design them to eliminate drawer locks as well; this was done on a lot of vintage campers and boats. Anyway, great video, and great points!
The elimination of drawer locks, is going to depend entirely on the expected use case of the vehicle. If you only expect to drive on pavement, or well graded gravel roads? It's probably fine. But the moment you think or believe that you will go out exploring on logging roads, or remote access roads, or anywhere that the road isn't graded, yearly? You are still going to want latched drawers and cabinets. The vibration and impacts will dislodge pretty much any lip or friction based retention.
As always, it is important to understand the limits of the mechanisms you use in making whatever it is you make. For a lot of people? The lip, or friction based retention will work flawlessly.
@@scottgoldmarble7509 I'll contradict that assertion. I sold high level catering equipment for over 20 years - all van based. I ragged my vans to within an inch of their lives around the lanes of the Cotswold hills. - $300 knives sat on shelves and never moved! (they were on non slip mats but no other retaining.) Another point in case: 50 years ago a dear friend of mine left his brew on the A frame of his trailer - 47 miles later he got home - tea was cold but still sat where he'd put it - and If as TTT says it'll work for boats.......
@@CosmicSeeker69 I did say it is probably fine on pavement and well graded gravel roads.
I'm not sure what the roads of Cotswold are like, but they are clearly better maintained than many of the logging roads I know of, here in B.C. Canada. Often times you will be dodging potholes that are 2-6 inches deep, or running into washboard so bad, you have to slow down or you will lose control of your vehicle. When you hit roads like that? It doesn't matter how good of a non-slip mat you have, things are going to move, because they are going to not be in contact with the mat. Things will start bouncing around.
Nice share. Migh call you The Cabinet Truther. Appreciate an honest man with a walk behind the talk. Bless you.
Had been so convinced on the usage of 8020 that until I watched your video. Absolutely sold on your take of why wood is the better option and all the points you raised were absolutely valid. You can't imagine how happy my girlfriend is now that I too wish to make it in wood. Would be great if you would share more on your construction techniques even though you've shared some great insights in this video. All the best in your CZcams channel!!!
I agree, I would love to see a basic cabinet construction, including one drawer layout.
@@blandry021 i think we all do :)
There are many woodworking channels that cover the basics, this guy made the important points on how to keep it light and beautiful, dont ask more of him...
As a long time wood worker I have to commend you on this video. You have made some really good points here that so many people who do van builds should learn. Keep up the great work you are doing!
Finally! Someone said it! 80/20 is totally not worth it! Expensive! Heavy! And very very hard to build! I know cz I’ve done it! Believe him! 👍👍👍
Such a cogent and gentlemanly presentation! Thank you very much for sharing!
That was so informative and well presented. This is a MUST view for anyone contemplating building the most lightweight cabinets for their conversion. Those with the tools and skills will find this invaluable. Thank you for putting this together and sharing your knowledge.
Thank you!
From the get go. “I hope this creates a discussion more than battling words.” Instant subscription my man. Awesome video, always wanted to build my own, thank you so much! Awesome work!
I often see pretty custom builds and the first problem i see is they're overweight on the axles /suspension. So valuable to mention space considerations too on 8020 vs wood formed to sides pillars, taking up too much space and aesthetically clunky lego looking in the end. Thanks for the great stress / sheer tips on thinner wood.two thumbs for your methods. Liking your great wood shop too.
I'm amazed at the quality of your woodworking skills with such thin material, very impressive.
Great info! I always thought that 80/20 was massive overkill, structurally. Only a couple of things in a van deserve that much support - the bed, and possibly one side of a couch. I always thought that a hybrid approach might be better.
Take an example from Gl*ck - they're 90% plastic, with just a few reinforcing pieces of metal that give the frames and body extreme rigidity while not weighing very much.
I'll be making my second conversion later this year, and I'm exploring using angle brackets and flat pieces in strategic locations to get the bending and torsion aspects under control. The bed will still probably be 80/20 ( #1 son is 6'6" and needs the support ).
For overhead cabinets, two angle brackets should be quite sufficient - possibly only one. After all- the van's roof is pretty rigid, already.
I like your drawers not needing glides - virtually ALL the old furniture we have in our house does not have fancy drawer glides. Saving the space and weight is a great idea.
Finally - one can paint those "boring" poplar in various ways to add interest.
I meant total weight. You do a great job of your unit v. a unit with 80/20. I am seeing builds get heavier and heavier with highly decorative interiors and endless exterior add-ons.
Commenting for the algorithm, this deserves more views.
Indeed, right you are. More people should see this!
I have no plans of building a camper van, but this video really makes me want to start one - and get you to build the cabinets for it! I absolutely love your way of thinking, using every little scrap of space and making things a light, while very strong, as possible.
Great straightforward explanation of lightweight cabinets and a good resource for explaining issues with extruded aluminum framing. Every van builder should know this. Great job. Recommend!
I'm very impressed with your analysis. Cabinet structure, drawer and slides all add weight and decrease space utilization. When I looked at 80/20, reached similar conclusions to you. Heavy weight and lower utilization. Many builds with 80/20 look very space wasteful.
You cabinetry skills and forethought are admirable. This is my first video of your channel. It will have be browsing around to find more here. Nicely done!
That van will be lauched to the moon when finished. Gosh dude!!!
At random came across this video, and I have to say finally someone that build like my dad and later me use to do for cabinets and furniture when we converted vans for our own use.
I never understood why we always made it work in wood so much thinner than what I see everyone on CZcams build in.
Thank you for making a nice and very clear explanation I can point people to when they refuse to believe things can be build strong using less thickness!
Just when I thought I was going to use 80/20 for my van.. Thank you so much for the video! I will be watching more for more tips!
I've grown to love a similar style of building. I'm not nearly at your level (love your work) but plan to get there. Light is so important, heavy breeds heavy. I do use epoxy for imperfect joints and build in curves to panels where possible for strength from the curve itself. Please do a video on laminating, that is a great idea that I had discarded due to assuming it'd be too hard to do.
Don’t underestimate the benefit of the strength of aluminum extrusions fastened to the vans body. Heavy things like water tanks, batteries, and refrigerators need to be secured in case of a crash. Lightweight plywood boxes will crush under those kinds of dynamic forces.
The first thing I thought of at the end of this video was, "What about a crash?" - 80/20 was dismissed as having excessive strength beyond what was necessary, but that might be the difference between the cabinet contents flying into the front of the vehicle and staying put during a crash.
That said, the amount of 80/20 used seemed kind of excessive in the example, vs. using it as a reinforcement in a combination metal+wood solution.
As a lifelong cabinet maker.
I got to say Well done."
It seems nowadays even with CNC control cutting people don't understand the benefits of accuracy and gluing components to create strength.
Happy to see your video. I'll be watching more.
There is a significant termite population in my area.
For my RV revamp, I chose 80/20 for that reason.
I used synthetics for hydronic flooring and panels.
I've been refining my cabinet building over the years and my latest slide-on camper fitout is near identical. Mostly 3mm and 6mm oly with a little 9mm in places, no drawer slides, maximum space. I also reinforce some thin jounts with an epoxy fillet like a wooden boat/canoe builder which adds to the strength enormously if needed.
I did document one of my builds once and got a huge amount of abuse from the haters believing it would never be as strong as alloy or sheetmetal stuff and couldn't possibly last.
Not only does this video explain why wood done well can be very good but it's also great to read so many comments from people supporting his ideas.
Now if only someone could recognise this in the stuff im trying to sell. No-one wants it 😢
This is GREAT stuff. The weight savings of poplar plywood is significant, and the material I will be using for some upcoming work van racking systems. Your comment below on the Incra box joint jig is VERY helpful, as I didn't know it existed. I will likely use 1/2" ply for various drawers (much heavier contents than in a conversion van) but the box joints greatly increase the strength.
I would love to see a video of you making some of these drawers.
Thank you! I'll keep it in mind for a future video about the drawers. For a work van I'd definitely not recommend a lot of the content of this video....or at least when I think of my days of using a work van or truck.
This is one video that is well worth watching, very good advice being given.
Thanks for this! You’ve validated a lot of my concerns/observations regarding extruded aluminum. And I love your simple cabinets/drawers. My old kitchen has simple drawers without metal slides and they work great even after 50 years. Definitely going to try this for my next build. 👍
Don’t give up on 8020 just because 99.99% of the builders using it have absolutely no structural engineering background but want you to think they’re a master of 8020 so they can make money off your clicks. It’s a lot easier to fake being a master of 8020 then it is to fake being a master cabinet maker. Most of these people don’t even know what a grade 8 bolt is.
This is amazing and super helpful for anyone trying to decide what material to use for the van. I never really understood the 80/20 fad for cabinetry, plus it’s so expensive. Great video
And, time consuming- bc once you've cut the frame and screwed it together- making sure that you have threaded all the brackets on first, you still have the job of panelling it all.
3.46 K subscribed?? I'm shocked!! You deserve sooooo many more! I most certainly subscribed.
Thank you for this AMAZING video!!!
As a cabinet maker myself a applaud you for your skills in the trade and in front of the camera.
I'm a metal worker by trade and my first option would be the ali extrusions, however, after watching this my mind has been changed, plus you got a subscriber.
Great video and I'm sure you make very light cabinets and that they would come out lighter regardless put two things one I think you've over-engineered the 8020 cabinets and that makes them excessively overweight and two you have one of the most agreeable comment sections I've ever seen on any video ever
I’m glad someone is calling out that 80/20 stuff. The same goes for framing out cabinets. Space in a van is a major concern. I’ve built most of my stuff with 1/2 inch non-structural ply with no framing and it’s held up fine. And I haven’t even bothered to glue anything either.
This is ¼" & ⅛" plywood.
Definitely a smart - bordering on brilliant approach. One thing you could consider using for drawer slides are thin strips of Teflon as bearing surfaces. This way, if there is any expansion or contraction due to humidity, the Teflon might allow for those variances in the dimensions where the drawers meet the carcass. Great job!
My mind is blown. You sir are an impressive craftsman. Tip of my hat to you! My mind is changed.
I like it light. Puts a full size fridge inside :)))) for the record we carry 50+50L freezers in a small VW van and those are small and light.
Really liked your comparison of wood vs 80-20 for weight and space savings. Another factor is the cost of the 80-20 rails, hardware and corner pcs./ braces. As a retired aerospace machinist I have an affinity to working with aluminum but I love the look and feel of wood and the ability to make it conform to your design. Another thought on the drawer slide issue is to add a layer or two of UHMW tape to the sliding surfaces. Extremely thin and light weight and replaceable if worn out. Thanks for your video.
Agreed, also parts count matters. I built things for a living and every corner or end point adds costs since it needs to be measured and cut requiring thought and labor. KISS.
You know what, small domed metal tacks pinned onto the frame under the drawer boxes (ie. what the drawers will slide on) can make the boxes slide nicer :) I've got an old record cabinet and the folks that refinished it did that; works like a charm! You only need 4, too (front and half way in. Just don't forget the locking drawer pulls :)
This video is amazing. With all the details and exact explanation. Best video for diy van shelve construction out there.
I really like your approach to the build. Sound engineering. As van cabinets go, yours are probably among the lightest I've seen in the many videos I've watched. However...
(There is always a however 😄)
I used to build semi-custom boats. About 25 years ago, an acquaintance in the industry who worked building fully custom yachts showed me some of the things they were doing that boggled the mind. Exotic wood veneers over carbon fiber and Nomex honeycomb cores (think jet fighter type technology). If you want truly lightweight, you gotta go there. Oh, it also helps to have an open checkbook. 😲😁
Haha, yep, sure wish I was born with a trust fund;) and perhaps a time machine so I could investigate all the design options.
Honeycomb panels have been on my list for a while. The ones I could afford didn't actually save me any weight. By the time you factored in two 2mm skins, the honeycomb, and the resin to hold it together, my 3mm panels with a thicker border were lighter (on paper...). I think the biggest advantage of honeycomb is from a builder perspective it acts a lot more like a solid sheet, which is way easier to work with than gluing 100 tiny little pieces together.
It seems to me that the small but strong vibrations of a car stresses the material a bit different than the stresses from the water and wind on a boat. I think it would be interesting to see that kind of thing taken into consideration.
G'Day Mate, in the Australian Van/boating scene I use thin TEFLON stips top and bottom on all draws instead of wood on wood. it works just as good as bearing runners and no space taken up, no weight and cheap. I can pull my very heavy draws out with my little finger. Look for pure industrial use teflon works a treat. When I came up with this idea I rubbed slides with soap or wax put this didnt work for long as a Chef working with those slippery plastic cutting boards i cut one into stipes ...Hey BINGO. Goodluck from Rob in OZ
EXCELLENT Finally someone who understands load and structure, and the weight/fuel issue. I am a retired Cabinet Maker and doing similar in my VW Crafter.
it is good that you highlight the benefits of saving weight and space, something I have worked with but with different materials, that we find can be an alternative to ply.
Wooow. Absolutely amazing video with details I have looked for years for! ❤
Dude, you are the cabinet GOAT!
Fantastic info. Appreciate you taking the time to do the math for 80/20. Really eye opening.
A very well presented and narrated argument offering objective analysis, all supported by detailed, on screen proof!
Interesting, informative and particularly illuminating, this was wonderful to see and hear, and all presented so very clearly and readily understandable!
What an absolute breath of fresh air this is, I'm delighted to have found and subscribed to this excellent channel.
The information I've learned will help me immensely, particularly using those finger grooves to increase the adhered contact surface og my 6mm panels.
Thank you for this wonderful tutorial.
Such a brilliant argument and demonstration! I would like to use these techniques to build custom furniture in a tiny apartment setting, where weird angles and space efficiency are definitely a concern. Would you be willing to share more in-depth information about your builds, e.g. cutting and glueing, schematics, etc? I honestly think people would gladly pay for a written guide :)
Great video, many thanks for putting this together
I build nothing but learned an amazing amount info from this one video. Sir, you are wicked smart!
Exactly what I was needing for my minivan camper build. Many Thanks!
Very cool. Very precise, well thought out, and tested advice.
Great information! Thank you for sharing this!
Thank You for explaining it so throughly.
Awesome and very detailed explanation
Great job!!!
Excellent video man, thanks so much! Really interesting and useful.
Excellent video. Thanks for putting this together. Just watched most all your video and looking forward to more updates.
Fantastic info and approach!