Etching a Brass Type Label for my lathe without chemicals

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  • čas přidán 13. 03. 2022
  • I found another old lathe made by Stube & Fils in Paris around the year 1893. Type label was missing, so I tried to make a new one during restoration. Normally these type labels ware etched with Iron-III-Chloride - which is highly toxic.
    I tried to do it without chemicals, only with electrolysis. The result is not as perfect as a professional made type label. But it matches perfectly with the antique lathe.
    It took me several attempts, but at the end it was surprisingly easy. You can do this at home too. All you need is a laser printer (or a copier from a copy shop), a thin sheet of a magazine paper, a laminator (a hot iron will do, too) and a battery charger - or at least a cell hone charger.
    That's all - the rest is told in the video! Have fun, like, subscribe, or leave a comment!
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Komentáře • 22

  • @paulmoritoshi8184
    @paulmoritoshi8184 Před 9 měsíci +5

    Beautiful job using a range of techniques. Very informative and instructional. Thanks.

  • @hawkercnc8261
    @hawkercnc8261 Před 6 měsíci +3

    Nicely done thanks. Not sure about the big hex galvanised nut on the base! Square polished and oil blacked perhaps

  • @justintupicruz6324
    @justintupicruz6324 Před měsícem +1

    beatiful work

  • @paulmanhart4481
    @paulmanhart4481 Před 8 měsíci +3

    Good job.

  • @cirkaphone2229
    @cirkaphone2229 Před 2 lety +2

    Sehr sehr cool das jetzt auch auf CZcams zu sehen! :)

  • @herculanolavrador2813
    @herculanolavrador2813 Před 6 měsíci +2

    Que maravilha de trabalho, muito bom mesmo obrigado pela informação.

  • @hawkercnc8261
    @hawkercnc8261 Před 6 měsíci +2

    The derusting tanks just use a battery charger and some sodium carbonate to increase conduction. This will transform seriously rusted kit. The processes are the same . One comment is ‘voltage drop’ to be aware of. To clean a flat plate or etch it, the other electrode should be similar in size and equidistant so that the voltage drop per cm. Is the same. If one end is close and the other several cm away then the etching rates are different due to the resistance of the water. I have never seen anyone yet do derusting or etching with a 100 amp arc welder yet. That should be interesting, loads of hydrogen and oxygen. Armour was coated with french polish, cut back with a needle or scraper and then acid etched, electrolytic would work as well. Undercutting on deep etching is a problem.

  • @pazuzu1072
    @pazuzu1072 Před 7 měsíci

    Very cool, amazing job!! ❤️❤️ I didn't know that it's possible to use electrolysis instead of ferric chlorid or hydrogen peroxide + hydrochloric acid!! I also didn't know that it's necessary some pressure to be properly transferring the toner to the metal, that's the reason my ones usually didn't transfer correctly (I use an iron), being necessary a lot of after corrections with a pen!!! 🤣🤣 Good teachers like you make the difference for us hobbists and amateurs, thank you very much 🥰❤️❤️🥰

  • @sky173
    @sky173 Před rokem +3

    This is awesome. I'm curious what printer do you use to print on the paper? How does the toner go from the paper to the brass? Is there a special type that is required? I have some old equipment I'm restoring. This is very helpful. Thanks again for sharing,

    • @chipsdust7534
      @chipsdust7534  Před rokem +1

      This should work with any laser printer. I used a normal copier. The toner is simply transferred with heat and pressure. It should also work with an iron. But it doesn't get really good every time you try it. You have to try it out to see what works well. But it is cheap and without dangerous chemicals. Good luck!

  • @randybailey1929
    @randybailey1929 Před 8 měsíci +2

    Great video, very informative.
    What material did you use for the anode?

    • @chipsdust7534
      @chipsdust7534  Před 8 měsíci

      I used an old Allen key. One from the Ikea box of Allen keys. But basically any piece of metal will do.

  • @paulmanhart4481
    @paulmanhart4481 Před 8 měsíci +2

    Put a few dabs of superglue on the back and bond it to a flat metal plate. Then sand. That way you get even pressure over the whole thing.
    Remove with razor blade.

  • @Rob-rp9bx
    @Rob-rp9bx Před 2 lety +4

    Fantastic video, thank you for sharing your techniques and knowledge, I can’t wait to try it on some projects! What thickness brass are you using?

    • @chipsdust7534
      @chipsdust7534  Před 2 lety +1

      Have fun and I wish You success! I used 1 mm brass.

    • @Rob-rp9bx
      @Rob-rp9bx Před rokem

      @@chipsdust7534 Thank you 👍🏻😊

  • @kokmil
    @kokmil Před rokem +3

    Very nice job!👏👏👏
    Can I ask what designer program did you use to draw the tags?

    • @chipsdust7534
      @chipsdust7534  Před rokem

      Thanks; a full designer program is not necessary for these simple purposes. For me, Powerpoint was easy to use and produced all results I needed.

    • @kokmil
      @kokmil Před rokem

      @@chipsdust7534 Tank you. 👍 It is a new purpose of to use Power point. Awesome.I will try it.

  • @windmillacres679
    @windmillacres679 Před rokem +3

    This is great. I've been needing to do this on a couple of tools.
    Will the etching process work on any other metals? I need to restore a silver tag.

    • @chipsdust7534
      @chipsdust7534  Před rokem +1

      It works quite well with all base metals. I have never tried etching silver. It is certainly difficult since silver is a precious metal and not so easy to dissolve. I know it's usually done with highly concentrated nitric acid. Of course, that is quite toxic and dangerous. But it should also work electrolytically. I would try low concentration nitric acid as an electrolyte, which is then electrically assisted. It will probably take a long time to dissolve a few tenths of a millimeter, though. Good luck!

    • @windmillacres679
      @windmillacres679 Před rokem

      @@chipsdust7534 cool. Thanks.