Thanks for posting this video. The only one showing the mechanical inner workings of the auto-oscillating mechanism on the internet, (that I could find anyway). I have a really nice, working L & R Master that I'm about to restore and wanted to add the auto- oscil. feat. to it in the process. I've got a L & R new products pamphlet from the 50's, and in the back they offer a service for a "Auto Reversing Action" upgrade tor $25.00. Just ship your ( Master or Heavy Duty unit w/ L & R motor) to the factory. I found a pristine Vari-Matic head unit model C and it's on the way from ebay that I'm going to convert my Master unit with, so this video was a big help. So thanks again for the posting.
Thank you for the kind comments. I'm so glad someone found this useful. I wish I was set up for making better quality videos. I hope to make more in the future.
@@H0lyman01 Hey the video quality was not a problem what so ever. When it comes to a good and useful posting of videos in this category, production value takes a backseat to content.
Super helpful video. About to receive my own mastermatic off of eBay. From your video, it seems to me the default state might be oscillating and the black boss over the heater hole engages the rod and microswitch to disable the oscillation.
It only oscillates in the fully down position. The microswitch is activated by the rim of the jar. This allows you to lift it up slightly and use centrifugal force to remove most of the fluid, before changing to the next jar. The upright boss stops you from lowering it too much into the heated chamber.
Hi, I have the same model machine, same crumbling wires. I took photos when I disassembled, but two of the photos didn't turn out good. Would you happen to have a wiring diagram or pics showing where the wires connect? Thx.
Hello. I am trying to disassemble the basket motor for a Varimatic, which has the same worm gear/reversing design like your “closet” Mastermatic motor. With fear and judicious force, I have been able to get the end plate off, but the armature refuses to come out. Either the top bearing is seized into the housing or there is something else holding it in that I am missing. Did yours come out freely? Before I get heavy handed with it I want to make sure there isn’t some trick… like somehow needing to disengage the worm gear. Thanks in advance for your help.
The brushes are likely impacting the free movement of the armature. Have you removed them? Also if memory serves the top bearing was a tight fit in the top of the housing. If the brushes are out use some gentle side to side movement on the armature shaft to work that top bearing downward.
Thanks for the reply. I did remove the brushes so that is not it. At least I know there is nothing else holding it… it is just stuck. I will probably try to get a little WD-40 with a straw nozzle and just keep worrying it. These are great machines, but they do put up a fight when you work on them. Thanks again.
Hi, I have the same model machine, same crumbling wires. I took photos when I disassembled, but two of the photos didn't turn out good. Would you happen to have a wiring diagram or pics showing where the wires connect? Thx.
I have a similar model and was wondering how you managed to get the brush holders out. I don't want to damage anything in the process so any advice would be appreciated!
Those brush holders come out by removing a set screw that is down the hole where you dripped the oil. Loosen the set screws and the holders are easily removed.
Thanks for posting this video. The only one showing the mechanical inner workings of the auto-oscillating mechanism on the internet, (that I could find anyway). I have a really nice, working L & R Master that I'm about to restore and wanted to add the auto- oscil. feat. to it in the process. I've got a L & R new products pamphlet from the 50's, and in the back they offer a service for a "Auto Reversing Action" upgrade tor $25.00. Just ship your ( Master or Heavy Duty unit w/ L & R motor) to the factory. I found a pristine Vari-Matic head unit model C and it's on the way from ebay that I'm going to convert my Master unit with, so this video was a big help. So thanks again for the posting.
Thank you for the kind comments. I'm so glad someone found this useful. I wish I was set up for making better quality videos. I hope to make more in the future.
@@H0lyman01 Hey the video quality was not a problem what so ever. When it comes to a good and useful posting of videos in this category, production value takes a backseat to content.
Super helpful video. About to receive my own mastermatic off of eBay. From your video, it seems to me the default state might be oscillating and the black boss over the heater hole engages the rod and microswitch to disable the oscillation.
It only oscillates in the fully down position. The microswitch is activated by the rim of the jar. This allows you to lift it up slightly and use centrifugal force to remove most of the fluid, before changing to the next jar. The upright boss stops you from lowering it too much into the heated chamber.
Hi, I have the same model machine, same crumbling wires. I took photos when I disassembled, but two of the photos didn't turn out good. Would you happen to have a wiring diagram or pics showing where the wires connect? Thx.
Hello. I am trying to disassemble the basket motor for a Varimatic, which has the same worm gear/reversing design like your “closet” Mastermatic motor. With fear and judicious force, I have been able to get the end plate off, but the armature refuses to come out. Either the top bearing is seized into the housing or there is something else holding it in that I am missing. Did yours come out freely? Before I get heavy handed with it I want to make sure there isn’t some trick… like somehow needing to disengage the worm gear. Thanks in advance for your help.
The brushes are likely impacting the free movement of the armature. Have you removed them? Also if memory serves the top bearing was a tight fit in the top of the housing. If the brushes are out use some gentle side to side movement on the armature shaft to work that top bearing downward.
Thanks for the reply. I did remove the brushes so that is not it. At least I know there is nothing else holding it… it is just stuck. I will probably try to get a little WD-40 with a straw nozzle and just keep worrying it. These are great machines, but they do put up a fight when you work on them. Thanks again.
I have one of these apart, if you want to see an original?
Thank you! I did manage to get it all back together and working well. I appreciate the offer.
Hi, I have the same model machine, same crumbling wires. I took photos when I disassembled, but two of the photos didn't turn out good. Would you happen to have a wiring diagram or pics showing where the wires connect? Thx.
I have a similar model and was wondering how you managed to get the brush holders out. I don't want to damage anything in the process so any advice would be appreciated!
Those brush holders come out by removing a set screw that is down the hole where you dripped the oil. Loosen the set screws and the holders are easily removed.