How To Torque Cylinder Head Bolts - EricTheCarGuy
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2010
- How To Torque Cylinder Head Bolts - EricTheCarGuy
www.ericthecarguy.com/
Well this was a fun one to make. I believe I covered everything but if you feel I haven't please let me know in the comments below as well as any tips you might have to add as well. I'm not trying to make a big deal about "pound feet" or "foot pounds" I'm just trying to put that out there, the important thing is that you get the proper torque and get the job done right in my opinion, what you decide to call it is up to you.
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Very well explained. Good to see the appreciation of what engineers want to get from preloaded bolt joint. A few comments from engineering point of view:
1. the most accurate way to get the correct bolt preload is with initial tightening. re-tightening torque gives you much bigger torque scatter even if the torque wrench is set to initial torque.
2. by cleaning the bolt thread with a wire wheel you are making two things: you make the thread surface a lot rougher which results in high thread friction that decreases your bolt preload; you increase the embedding losses in the bolt thread which results in the bolt relaxation (some loss of preload) by flattening the spikes in surface roughness.
⁰p pp 0⁰⁰p p⁰⁰
"Wire wheel", that's just high speed burnishing! Whidh is it 'thread surface a lot rougher' or 'flattening the spikes' - make up your mind!
I'm not an engineer but I could see that being problematic
Your fluent chose of word makes you an amazing teacher, so easy to learn from, and all your tips are worth a bounty.
Thanks for sharing your skills.
@LeathanEre Personally I LOVE those wrenches, I wasn't kidding when I said they are some of my favorite tools. I prefer the clicker type because of cost. You can set up the digital type to beep when the specific torque is reached which may be a better indication since you sometimes hear that "ping" when you tighten some fasteners that can mask the "click" that you are looking for with a clicker type. Thanks for the great question and comment.
@9b8 Torque procedures vary depending on application, I have seen some like you suggest, it's really up to the engineers as they put in the time to find out what works best and then write it into their service procedures.
people look up to the Rock, or even Dolph Lundgren, The real ROCKST@R, my man eric
Believe it or not the foot pounds only refer to the force being applied to the bolt not the tightness of the bolt itself. That is why the guy tells us to clean thread etc. he is smart not dumb at all.
@ejsecco I've gotten a lot of different input on this one. On this particular engine however Honda actually says to lubricate the threads. I lubricate them so that I get a smooth transition to the torque value as any hiccups will give a false reading. Thanks for your input.
@croom9 Thanks. I use a Sony HDR-SR11, nice little cam, she's held up well despite the rough use, I'd like to get another one soon so that I can do 2 camera shoots on some videos.
my manual says that when ever the bolt starts making a creaking sound you have to take it out and redo it
nope nope Yes. This is a video how NOT TO torgue head bolts;)
@@grzegorz16100 cuz a guy with decades in the industry has ruined so many cars right? Use your head
@@socknetea I have seen people with decades of "experience" who can't do shit. That doesn't prove anything. It might be that his headgasket will last 5 years instead of 10-20.
Actually I wouldn't use one of those torque angle gauges for 90 degrees. They can slip and it's far easier to just make a mark with a sharpie and turn it 90 degrees. For angles that aren't 90, 180, and 270 degrees, then I resort to the stupid torque angle gauge.
or you can do sin, cosin or tangent to determine what lb/ft is the degree you need
That doesn't make sense. Trig functions relate an angle to its two-dimensional components. The torque required to achieve a particular angle beyond the first torque depends on friction and material deformation. Tightening by angle is generally more uniform than tightening to the same measured torque anyway, which is the point.
ollopa1 m
@@jon-erikbutcher3609 5l specification on cons rods bearing torque
@cooljestin1 I've seen them break in the past, they do turn out easy after they break however so at least there's that. Thanks for the comment.
@IIGrayfoxII Thanks for the info and your comment. It's nice to see that you have embraced the 21st century, we are still working on that here in the states.
It's only a matter of time before Miley Cyrus gets into automotive repair and starts torquing.
Jajaja! Lol. 👍
Booooooooooo 😅😂
Anyone else hearing "Twerking"?
+Fact VS Conspiracy no
2256si99. kaleb
no
16:40
Very good tutorial, especially covering handling and storing torque wrenches!
@MrMunono You may have to take it back apart as you may have installed the gasket wrong. Also you NEED to torque the head according to the service manual procedure if you want the repair to last.
Metric always beats American measurements.
We civilized folk prefer to have a system which converts sizes (centimeter/meter) in consistent magnitudes.
Metric:
10 milimeters in one centimeter
100 centimeters in one meter
1000 meters in one kilometer.
The same numbers apply for weights and fluids.
American:
You guys don't even have anything smaller than inches, you just start making fractions.
12 inches in one foot
3 feet in one yard
1760 yards in a mile
The weights and fluids are also all over the place.
Most of us (American car guys) have them memorized quite well and cubic inches measure displacement more precisely than liters, although that's a different topic.
xxRamD3yruxx Metric is more accurate because metric measurements can be smaller than American standard.
Milimeters, micrometers, nanometers
ChrisHallett83 because when you say a 350 chevy is 5.7 liters you've undersized the engine by 35cc. I was not comparing cc to ci, but more of liter to ci. cc is even more acurate than ci although that's a large number to stick to the side of the car.
Dylan McElveen milimeters are close 32ths
anything smaller would be moving into scientific zone meaning: go metric, because science is in metric
Civilized is the man that identified and complimented those that are "past the stone ages" and use metric even though he's from a place that uses American measurements. Not the one that blatantly insults an entire nation of people that do, as you have now.
@TheChero6 They are worth every penny, I can vouch for that. At least for me the Snap-on truck didn't have the capability to calibrate the wrenches, he would send them off and give them back when they were done. While doing some research for this video online I found some of the tools they use in calibration, pretty cool really. Thanks for your comment.
@diorije You actually answered your own question, the tap is to create threads whereas the thread chaser is there to clean the threads. Great question and thanks for the comment.
@HondaGRST You can use that sequence but the important thing is to start in the center and work outward, not at the edges. I like to use OE parts whenever possible but I haven't had problems using the aftermarket gaskets that I've used so far, the important thing is the treatment of the head and the block (cleaning them properly) as well as the correct torque and sequence when installing the head.
@bigsteve84769 I think as long as they have oil on the threads when you install them you are good as I don't see the benefit of soaking them because the metal will not absorb the oil in any way. Thanks for the comment.
@techgood I'm glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
@DARKSCOPE001 I appreciate your input it means a lot. Thing is that I can't change the video once I post it other than an annotation and I feel that would be too much for such an explanation. I have noted your comment however and if I can incorporate it into a future video I will.
@stopthechem Thank you, glad you liked it.
@skylinekin Thank you, especially for the great comment.
@foxdmulder I'm told it is best to have them inspected annually with regular use. Great question BTW.
@MrTDM09 I'm glad I'm able to help with your automotive career, the world could use a few more good technicians in my opinion. Thanks for the comment and good luck with the K series, sounds like fun.
@fastvpbt1 Honestly that depends on what's causing it, for starters make sure you are using the correct oil called for by the manufacturer. If you have noisy lifters I don't recommend using synthetic oil either as that can make it worse.
@bunning63 I'm glad you enjoyed the video, I so often get comments on things that I missed or things that people disagreed on it's nice to get a comment like this one thanks very much.
@justhes Thanks for stopping by and the comment.
@915Mustang Your right I didn't and I'm not saying that isn't a good idea but I've done it this way for years without any problems. Thanks for the comment.
@qaz3000 That is referred to as a 'beam' type and I've been told they are actually more accurate than the clicker style. I used one for years before I bought my wrenches and never had a problem.
@SephirothFF1 Your welcome, thanks for the comment.
@Yonnlopez I sure can help, watch the video Diagnosing an Overheat, that should get you started on finding that problem. Thanks for the comment.
@motorztv Take care of your tools and they will take care of you. Thanks for the comment, good to see you motorztv!
@jwed6 Glad you like them, thanks for watching.
@ChowZeb Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
@chicks123 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
@thepackman111 I'm glad you like them and that they help, thanks for your comment.
@X2N18 The rule is to try and use the wrench that has the spec you looking to achieve in the MIDDLE of it's range, if it's close to one end or the other of the effective range of the wrench try to find another wrench where the spec is closer to the middle of it's operating range.
@sparkscarz Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.
@JDMnubi I usually do some from under the car and the others I use a 1/4" socket and ratchet. It's a lot easier after you remove the thermostat housing and the bracket under the intake.
@SovietSlayer There is nothing finer than a good torque wrench in my opinion. Good luck with that job and thanks for your comment.
@KayC2SLO Engine oil will work just fine, I just happened to have a little left over transmission fluid that I used on these.
@kingster92ify Depends on the engine and how the surfaces are suppose to be treated, with steal gaskets you want an almost mirror surface so you can't use abrasives of any kind, on everything else I like to use an angle die grinder with a plastic bristle disc to remove any left over gasket material.
Great job! I've been 'motivated' to do some car repairs myself and your videos are a God send, I feel somewhat confident I'll be able to do what I need to now. So thanks for posting Eric! :)
@mickeygovender Well Carburetors and fuel injection are 2 different things, you comment involves both. Rest assured I am working every day to make more and better videos so stay tuned. For the moment I'm a slave to what comes through my door so please be patient. Thanks for the comment.
@diorije I've been told not to do it but I've done it when I needed to since I don't have a set of thread chasers. I would not say that they are interchangeable however since they are 2 very different tools.
@TheFahQue Great tip. In fact you can watch a video on my old car that I miss dearly, it's under the title: "1972 Galaxie with 429".
Eric the car guy, I freaking love your videos. You're so informative and in depth. You always treat cars right, you the bomb man keep doing your thing! 19Years old and replacing my valve stem seals this weekend. Watched your videos for some insight along with a bunch of research. I'll let you know how it goes!
@bigtoy63 I believe I mentioned that, thanks for the comment.
@mickeygovender In my experience it's not the valve seals that cause oil burning but the piston rings, you might want to do a leak down test to see what kind of shape the bottom end is in, I think you may find the rings are leaking more than you think, esp on cylinder 1 according to your posted readings.
@MYDRAGGIN84 Make sure the connections are good. Try seeing if you have 12V at the solenoid wire when you turn the key to crank, if you don't you might want to look to the ignition switch and the wiring. You also need to make sure the connections of the battery cables on both ends are good.
@ladabyturbo I don't think so, you don't want to use a grease that will dry up or put more pressure on the threads, oil works just fine.
@finalman82 Excellent suggestions, thanks for your comment, you should make that video as I'm not familiar with the term "breaking".
@NETWizzJbirk I've used a torque stick myself and have been happy with the result but I've also made a video on torquing wheels for the very reasons you mention. Thanks for the comment.
@loco0351 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
@branco445 If you just worked on it and now you have a noise the best course of action is to go back and recheck your work including the timing belt tension.
@mixwell1983 The issue I would have with that is that it might send the debris to the bottom of the hole, with a thread chaser there are cavities in the tool that capture any debris and will remove it from the hole.
@chevykicksass505 Yea, lots of different input on this, I hadn't heard of that. Thanks for the comment.
@archer435 Your comments and input are appreciated and for the most part I agree, if I were assembling the Mona Lisa of engines I would treat it as such but in this particular case it was a used car that was damaged by a previous repair, the client was looking to turn the car around to prevent further loss of profit. There is something to be considered as well with a job like this and that is that "time is money", time saved is money saved.
You should work for NASA
@letxen3 If the new bolts didn't come with washers don't install washers of your own. You could consult the service manual to see if washers were present to begin with if you wanted to be sure.
@WhammyMechanics Indeed there are times where there is no way to avoid using extensions but it's commonly understood that it's best not to use them or use the shortest one possible to gain the most accurate torque readings. I'm not saying your wrong because I do things I'm not 'suppose' to all the time but it's good to know proper procedure and if I'm going to put out a video like this I want to at least present the most accurate information that I can.
@mrjost55 Thanks for noticing, I do put a lot of effort into the show and it's nice to hear when people like it. This is a bit more than a hobby for me, if I have my way I'll be doing this for some time to come. Thanks for the comment.
@coldcash12345 You would work that in pretty much the same way as I did here, the best scenario is to start with the center bearing and work your way outward. Run them down till they are snug and tighten them to torque in stages. Know that torque on rod and crank bearings is critical so be sure to get it right.
@philosifur1 In some cases you are correct but years ago I read an article about just reinstalling warped heads and re-torquing them to spec (aluminum heads that is). I've been doing this for years with great success. I'm not saying don't check them but as I said I've had quite a bit of success with this method. Thanks for the input.
@skylartjsayers Excellent point, thanks for the comment.
@EricWaterTruck I would say that falls under "Stuff Happens". Sometimes it works out but when it's on camera well.....
Way cheeper to do a head gasket than swap the engine BTW.
@LuieDiaz1 After a head gasket job you will have smoke for a while due to the contamination that gets onto the parts during assembly and disassembly, it takes a little while for it to burn off. If you suspect a head gasket issue I suggest you test for it instead of speculating, watch the Diagnosing A Cooling System Overheat video for details on that test.
@Benzedirk2012 I've never run into that on that engine and I've only ever had to take one of those cylinder heads off once in all the time I worked on Acura's. If it's just spinning then the block may be stripped anyway, perhaps you could just cut the head off of the bolt or drill it out.
@MRKD1811 I honestly don't remember blocking you, I'll look into that after this comment. Sometimes YT can be a bit 'glitchy'.
@thepackman111 You loosen the fasteners in the reverse pattern that you torque them. EVERY cylinder head should be torqued to spec when doing this work.
@davidzzz94 Most times you can feel it as well as hear it, it cam be tricky if you don't oil the area between the fastener head and washer because it will sometimes make a noise similar to the click.
Thank you for the video! I'm going to torque the cylinder head onto my Evinrude outboard engine today and I've never used a torque wrench. This instruction was just what I needed.
@archer435 Over time I have developed a "feel" for my air tools similar to using hand tools and in this case I would say that my air ratchet did not put any torque on the fasteners it just saved me the time of running them down by hand. I've heard the axiom about not wire wheeling the threads and for some applications I would agree but up to this point I have not experienced any ill effects from doing this, I've seen worse by not doing it however.
@pberglin Good tools are always worth the money. Thanks for the comment.
@davidzzz94 Usually from underneath, remove the bracket that holds the intake up in the back and it will be easier.
@CravinMorehead420 I try to be as accurate as I can remember but I usually forget something, I really should start writing scripts for these things. Thanks for your comment, BTW it made COTD on my FB and Twitter.
@alphared11 No worries man, I know I'm not perfect and I don't pretend to be. My viewers (including you) keep me honest and up on any mistakes I might make, in fact I count on it. I appreciate you taking the time to comment and pointing out the things you did.
@ratrace2p51 I don't have one that's why I didn't use it but thanks for your comment.
@PUREAAMERICAN Cool I didn't know they had the angle built in. Thanks for the comment.
@680iceman I would say you have it hooked up wrong or it has an internal short.
I appreciate your videos Eric. As a do-it-yourself kinda guy, I am prepping for my first custom Engine build based on a 460 Big Block Ford. It's great to have tips and re-torquing techniques like this when I need them regardless of make/model. Thank you!
@mobilove Great comment, thank you very much.
@fastvpbt1 Not really no, it's the smaller fasteners with small torque specs you have to watch out for as they can be tricky but the bigger fasteners like these usually aren't the problem if treated right.
@MRKD1811 Nope, you don't show up as 'blocked' on my end.
@spelunkerd Use it only when the bolt is going to seal a passage, on some engine blocks the threaded holes for the water pump go into the water passage, this would be an appropriate time for sealant. Cylinder head bolts should NEVER have sealant put on them however as they don't seal a passage but rather fasten the cylinder head to the block. Consult the service manual whenever you have a question about the use of sealant in a particular application just to be safe.
@jr10385 I'm not sure what your asking as you seem to have the specs, follow the steps and you should be fine especially if you have a degree wheel.
@skylartjsayers Yes it is. In fact I was making a video on it's problems as well. It turns out it's also having computer problems so I'm going to wait till that is resolved to finish the video and post it.
@josiqvideos09 Probably to gain the proper stretch on the fasteners, I'm sure there is a good reason and the procedure should be followed to the letter in my opinion.
@jjenson2006 Interesting method but how would you see the bolt head while you turned it? You really should come up to torque in one motion not several trying to read a mark on a bolt head, I'm not saying your method would not work but I believe the use of the tool would be more accurate and yield a better result. Thanks for the comment.
@sweetlikeADAM I don't think so but it's not a big deal if you do, just keep them in order, the caps are numbered and the direction is noted in the casting where they go back into place.
@robertbaxley A tap is designed to MAKE threads, you don't want to do that in this application so you use what is called a 'thread chaser' which is for CLEANING threads and won't alter the existing threads. I do what I can to try and keep up with comments but it's getting more difficult, my priority is to the website and my forum so I always go there first to answer questions if that helps you.
@680iceman Thank you, I appreciate the comment.
@SWD2263 I never thought of that but it seems like it would be a good indicator. Thanks for the comment, really great info.
@BoilerDan8787 You don't want too much oil in the holes or oil to pool in the holes as it will create a situation that could lead to hydrostatic lock, the small amount of oil on the threads will not cause this and allow for a more accurate torque setting.
@NoOneIsSafeAnymore I appreciate you comments on so many levels and I just might take you up on the 6 pack thing.
@bent1963 I like the sound of that. Thanks for the comment.
I highly appreciate all the information you have gave
@alphared11 Well first I did torque those bolts to 72lbft, I think I mentioned the mistake before I got started. As for the human torque wrench, it's not me so I'll use a torque wrench thanks.