Bleeding Brakes with a Vacuum Pump
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- čas přidán 21. 12. 2016
- There was some discussion on the 63/64 Cadillac Website regarding how to bleed brakes with a vacuum pump, and needed to bleed the brakes on my '02 Escalade EXT after installing new rotors, calipers and pads, and recorded this short video showing how it is done. It is not a 63 or 64 Cadillac, but it is the same procedure.
- Komedie
Good video. You are the first person I have seen in a video using that particular fitting to bleed brakes, looks like it did the trick. Thanks for posting. God Bless...
It looked like a football inflator valve. I guess that's what that one is that I just bought
Thanks, just what I needed, I have a few vehicles that are getting calipers replaced, nice job on the details, Dave!
Thank you. Right to the point! You made me feel good about doing it myself
Finally someone explains exactly how it works an how to set it up right. Thank you looking forward to seeing more votes
Bought that vaccum tool same process n fitting works great .Cleaned out the brake fluid proportion valve .Placed a weight on the brake pedal down all master cylinder replaced valve open vaccumed the the lines recycled the brake fluid all new .
i needa weight on brake pedal to do this right?
I just picked up a tool just like that one and thanks for the info. You have helped out a lot and wanted to let ya know.
i agree with the last comment.....you covered uo everything we wanted to see.
I never thought to bleed a brake system this way. Thank You for posting this video. It was very informative.
Nicholas Woods thanks my friend it really works i have done it like 10 times this way it always works perfect
Important note: leave the cap off the brake fluid reservoir when doing this. I kept leaving the cap on and wasnt getting any fluid coming out with the vacuum pump. Turns out that leaving the cap on the reservoir creates a vacuum in the line and when you use the pump, you're just fighting the vacuum and cancelling it out (so nothing gets pulled out).
Spex thanks for the tip!
Good bless u mate
The short hose between the pump and the catch can. Long hose gos from the catch can to bleeder
@6364CadillacChapter. Hi there 6364, Great video to begin with. First you remove the Cap off of the Reservoir from the top of the Master Cylinder. Then bleed the Caliper. I've had to Bleed Calipers before by myself. As usual I always watch a video just in case I forgot to get out both of my Brake-Kits. lol Wouldn't be the first time....
Edit: ***I decided to buy a Caliper Spread Tool because when I was spreading the Caliper after I put the new pads on, I believe because I had used a C-Clamp to collapse the Piston, I believe I was too Off-Center on the Caliper & accidentally Tweaked the Caliper Piston over to one side, just enough so it started to drag on the Rotor & didn't seem to have enough pressure on the Rotor when braking. The only other thing I can thing is that one Caliper just happened to get worse after I installed new Pads..
***With that said, your feedback on the matter of the Caliper issue I had would be cool..... Thanks again for the video. You got right to the point, plus you don't have all that ''Blah-Blah-Blah'' throughout your video like some mechanics do. Why some guys do that is confusing to me. When I search CZcams for a repair video about replacing Calipers, Rotors & Pads, I'd rather watch one where the mechanic doesn't decide it would be a great idea to go completely off topic lol....... Thanks again, MD............
I doubt that you damaged or tweaked the piston. I should straighten out once pressure is applied and begins pushing against a flat surface. Which therefore should fix itself. As for brakes dragging. There's a couple things it could be. And be much more likely then your tweaked piston. 1. Dirty and rusty slide pins. Aka the bolts that the caliper mounts too. These do get nasty and rusty requiring them to be clean and possibly polished with a fine grit sand paper. Then it needs grease reapplied to the pins. If u feel like it's still dragging. It could be the pads themselves. At least on the caliper side. The Lil metal clip looking things that coke with pads and or new calipers. Are either really crusty not allowing them to slide side to side.. Also if you are trying to turn the rotor and hub by hand. And think it's actually dragging. It's not, its just tight because of you pumping the breaks. There's no return springs so once they are pressed against the rotor. They stay put, until you actually start rolling with weight on the wheel. There's a slight lateral runout on the rotor that forces the pads away from the rotor. So just keep all that in mind when changing brakes.
thats why you use a brake pad when compressing the caliper pistons so it does it flush
@@UnlmtdprogressYep, use that old nasty one thats going in the trash,thats what its for,lol
Is that torsion bar suspension?
I see a rod on the left side of the screen, & I don't see a coil on the A frame.
Put grease around the bleeder to seal the air!
Jim Daniel no unless you opened up the threads until the bleeder was falling out. All you need is a 1/4 turn open on most cars.
I was doing this the other day and had soo many bubbles. I had a problem with my rear caliper- it would not pull fluid through. There was debris in the line (high mileage vehicle) so I had to remove the caliper, open the bleeder and compress the caliper, then pulled parking brake and compressed it again, put caliper back on and did a final bleed. Pain in the ass, but I just did my brakes and I knew there was something wrong with that caliper because I had a hell of a time compressing it to fit the pads.
Vacuum bleeders seem like the perfect solution, but putting a vacuum on a wheel cylinder can pull air in past the seal cups in the cylinder, as well as the bleed nipple threads. This usually shows up as fine micro bubbles in the bleed hose between the cylinder and reservoir. The piston seals are meant to seal under pressure, and seal better as pressure goes up. Vacuum just pulls air right past the seal lips. Vacuum bleeders do serve a purpose though, if you need to do a rough bleed in a hurry, as long as you finish off with a pedal bleed.
Will this damage the seals on the piston when bleeding? Or would it be best to just have someone press the brakes while bleeding?
@@Punisher-1 bit late, was looking into this for my 06 avalanche, may just do it the old way... hope you found answer elsewhere...
What if you pump the brakes while vacuuming them?
@Testonray Man Not sure but I'm thinking that if you use your foot along with this kit it may be too much air pressure and damage the seals which will ultimately loose vacuum
@@zeroautowarehouse4941
Vacuum is much harder to spell than lose.
I’m 💯 per cent positive that dog barking is a chihuahua
Or some other annoying ass brand of mutt.
yeah brakes can be a bear I like the needle fitting idea I might try it next time
Why is the hose so long between the pump and catch can? I really hate when the design of the pump changes from metal to plastic.
My brake fluid has turned green. I would pump til I don't see green any more. Just gotta keep an eye on the fluid level or be prepared to get it towed to a shop. My car is a Volkswagen so I first thought it may have been ATE Super Blue (it is very popular with us European and German car owners) mixed with regular yellow/clear fluid giving a green color. That might not be the case for me.
It is normal for it to turn green after contaminants cause the copper tubing seam to corrode. While it is normal, eventually that corrosion will require replacing the brake lines, but the first time you see it green isn't necessarily a sign it is due for that yet, but at the same time, better safe than sorry when it comes to brakes. IMO they more often fail from rust through from the outside in addition to the interior wall compromise so checking the outside is often a better gauge of when they are due for replacement to stay safe.
You're obviously leaking a ton of air either at the fitting or at the vacuum connection because you're pulling more air than fluid. How are you supposed to know when all of the air is gone from the caliper?
Most GM vehicles after replacing lines and calipers you need a scanner to activate the ON BOARD AUTO BLEED system.. Otherwise it's like pissing in the wind trying to get a brake pedal...
That has nothing to do with the post you replied to. Keep up the good work! @@thekingsilverado9004
Just had a brake job and brake lines bleeded and now my vehicle inside the dash on passenger side is popping when I stop or go or turn please help
Hey buddy had a question I’m running into problems I have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6 L 4 x 4 and I bled the brakes system put new oil & seals on the brake calipers and drum brake pistons put a new brake master cylinder and brake booster and tested the ABS module by sticking a stick in the little hole and pressing on the brake and it does not move the stick supposedly that sign is good but my brakes are still spongy meaning it sinks in half way And driving at 25 miles an hour residence I stepped hard on the brakes and it takes about 1.5 or 2 seconds to come to a stop but I want my brakes to bite on the rotors and it’s not doing that is this normal or do I need to plug a scanner so it could auto bleed mode to complete the service so it could break hard? I heard this from a GMC Tech veteran who said that I might need to hook up scanner just like the GMC trucks. I hope u can help with good info. I want my truck To leave tread marks on the ground when I slam the brakes hard I want my brace to bite the rotors just like my Mazda 2002 but I don’t know where ABS is the Design to not do this.
When using that tool. Can you continue to pull brake fluid to change the fluid. So long as I keep the reservoir topped off. Thinking that might be easier than someone pumping the brakes.
Absolutely you can change your fluid with the Mityvac. The only way to do brake work
Why are you stating mityvac? Off topic, wrong, is not the only way to brake work. Double fail.@@tchogworks1987
@@tchogworks1987I have one of these tools but have never used it for brake bleeding, i have used it to check vacuum on my cars and other things, real nifty but right now it would help me with a long pedal issue i'm having,i dont want to be putting any sealer or teflon on my bleeders, is it possible to get around that if you just open them just a hair?
I put a new master cylinder and new booster, i checked my booster push rod clearance and i bench bleed the master,not perfect like i wanted to but i did do it,my master has 3 fittings instead of the normal 2,thats why it was a challenge to bench bleed it,it has your 2 normal side ports and one on the bottom (i know,very strange)when the car is off, rock hard pedal, as soon as i turn it on it goes to the floor,car does stop but its just not a good feeling pedal.
Me and my buddy had bleed it 3 times,the backs are drums and there dont seem to be a lot of pressure coming out of them, the front ones are great, you bleed them and they will hit the inner fender with force but the back ones so so.
Reason i did all this was because my booster had gone out so i decided to change the master while i was at it,before i had no assist, now i have too much, ha ha ha ha, sorry for the long post.
Good video.... Do you remove the master cylinder reservoir before pumping or do you just leave it closed?
Leave it closed when bleeding the
Brakes
The most common believe is that you should loosen the cap on the reservoir so it can more easily draw air in, but the reality is that most have a one way diaphragm, necessary to allow more fluid down into the line as the brake pads wear and need the caliper piston to sit further inboard toward the rotor, with the result being that if your master cylinder reservoir cap is in good working order, you should be able to leave it on when you do the bleed, but it may take longer than having it loose. In other words, might as well loosen it as you need it off anyway to top off the fluid as you go along, never letting the reservoir get empty.
i am bleeding the brakes on my antique car with single master cylinder and drum brakes with no power brakes, it has brake shoes on all 4 wheels, im using the same pump, how long shd it take to bleed the entire system for all 4 wheels?
62.8 minutes
😂😂😂🤘🏽
Would be better if you moved your arm so we could see the cup.
nice
The air go to the top when the bubbles are gone
I Always put a hose over the bleeder valve. I don't see how that plastic cone can seal properly on the inside of the bleeder valve.
I've never been able to bleed a system with a vacuum bleeder without having air seep in through the bleed valve threads, even with having the threads wrapped with Teflon tape.
It’s always good to have the clothes in ranch over the bleeder valve to make it easier to loosen and tighten and also to check to make sure it breaks loose before we start the process
Clothes in ranch????????????????????????????????????????????????????
What?...
@@blh-rr9fu dipping your clothes in ranch when you're working with an open brake system (meaning open bleeder/or you introduced air into the master cylinder/brake line) prevents any air from forming aroujnd the bleeder. its an old mechanics trick. try it, the physics is pretty amazing. ofc you gotta put a piece of the ranch dipped cloth over the bleeder valve too so it prevents air leaks or air from being sucked in
@@Unlmtdprogress I'm looking forward to seeing this on youtube.💀
Closed
End
Wrench
+
Ketchup and relish equals Thousand Island dressing.
so using this method you don't need to go inside the car and step on the brake peddle right?
Yes
Which is a really good thing for ppl building a car that doesn't have all the necessary components connected to start the vehicle for vacuum assisted brake pump and hold, two person method...
yep but this guy says he'll do it anyway because he completely opened the brake system when installing new rotors and calipers. if you are just doing brake pads, u dont even need to bleed most of the time.. but just do it once every few brake pad services so that your brakes are efficient as possible. a miniscule amount of air gets introduced sometimes and it barely is noticeable but people like to be extra perfect
No. It is not necessary to have a vehicle with a running engine for assisted power brakes. Not at all. @@darrentylor5473
That's a nice arm you got there.... It blocked most of what you were doing.
I did that what is next ?
Important tidbit: The hose must fit tightly over the bladder screw. If it does not, air will enter the system at the same time you're trrying to get it out. Some people use zip ties to secure the hose.
I recomend the same to those that have small penises. the condom might need some help wth zip ties...great suggestiom
@@DavidGilesColorado Be a man and use a hose clamp 😂
@@Bishop653 never thought of myself as less than a man...I gave the zip ties to Goodwill
@@DavidGilesColorado Did you know that all condoms have a serial number on them? You didn't? Well, you must not need to roll them down enough to see it!
@@tonyl3461🤣🤣
I do believe that it is best to only have about a one and a half inch plastic hose between the cup and the gun.. No need for an extended hose.
?? Plenty of people do it fine with a longer hose than 1.5". If it decreases the vac a bit, it will just take a bit longer and more pumps of the tool to finish. This beats having too short a line and not being able to position the reservoir cup well and ending up with brake fluid in the pump which you then need to clean out before it causes damage.
Also no need to make it as short as 1.5" and that can cause problems holding the pump reservoir cup steady.
There's something I'm curious about. When we pump this device, I think it only bleeds the main cylinder and the line between the wheel and cylinder. After a while, when the hydraulics in this line run out, won't the air flow again? I think it is necessary to constantly send hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder to completely remove the air. I don't think the tool is strong enough to pull hydraulics through the master cylinder. Can someone explain the truth?
No idea what falsehood you are imagining but it is not correct. You simply pump the tool to create vac, and it pulls fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, down through the master cylinder, then through the hard line, to the soft line at the wheel, and through the caliper piston chamber and out the bleeder screw at the top. That is a complete trip through the entire circuit for that wheel, EXCEPT any air that may or may not be trapped in your ABS module.
There was really no "truth" to explain. You were simply wrong in your misunderstanding and it was always the same information that holds true.
Get ready to pump that handle a million times. Not joking
Did you forget to remove the packaging spacer between the grip?
Lol one person bleeding haha 😂❤😂
I have one of these, but the only way to bleed brakes 100% effectively is to use a second person to pump the brakes.
I bet, you forgot open reservoir cap and now pumping pistol creats under pressure i system..
My Communist Freight vacuum bleeder won't pull any fluid out of the bleeder on the rear axle of my 2001 Dodge 4x4 even though it shows a vacuum on the gauge and the bleeder screw is clean. I also pressed the brake pedal with a vacuum on the power bleeder and still no fluid came out. I hate ABS brakes!
sportster88 turn the abs off
Ur bleeder valve could be bad. Take it out and clean the draw hole at the bottom or replace it.
There is no good communist in any planet. I spent 19 years of my life under a communist regime. Terrible! I pray for America!
@@rafaelrodriguez1029 I can see how America would be prayed for by someone with first hand experience of communist regime. I think America doesn't understand how terrible it is. Thanks for sharing the truth.
Its not your truck, that harbor freight brake bleeder is trash.Spend the extra money and get the mytyvac if you must do it this way
Apakah sama kalau rem abs?
Hu hu ja ja kla klu po ka
*Its not a bong its for my slong*
Just get someone to hit the brakes lol fuck that cheap pump
Never. Never. Never use teflon tape on ANY brake fittings. It will turn to goo and leak within a few days.
Ask my 1956 Plymouth's back bumper how I know.
ty
This makes no sense. Using teflon tape would not make it leak any more than not using any. Further, teflon tape is resistant to brake fluid and practically any other chemical you're likely to buy as a civilian. I suspect you simply failed to tighten down your bleeder screw, must have forgotten to do it well and then it leaked due to that. Hint: Other people use teflon tape without this problem.@@kennypinkerton5818
I wonder if any one has ever zip tied the tip or put a pressure band with the screw on it screw without a fitting don’t need that shit is messy and why make a product that is gonna leak n not fit right I know this guy here
You know the guy in the video?
Couldn't hear what you're saying
Common sense not common...
Geezus! Forget about the barking dog and focus on the task. Good job framing the camera so we can see what's going on...not.
ha ha ha
Talking too much