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Sharpening a very dull Tenacious using the KME system
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2021
- A long video, showing the process of bringing a knife (a Spyderco Tenacious) from comically dull to stupidly sharp. I can't imagine why anyone would want to watch this. But, hey, people watch TV programs of watching other people fishing.
This goes with the Spyderco Tenacious video here: • SpyderCo Tenacious
Thank you this was very helpful for me, as a rookie. I am an old fart, just a rookie in knife sharpening. 'I appreciated the clamp angle, that is clamping along an imaginary line from tip to heel. Also, only going 10 passes at a time when achieving a burr to maintain a symmetrical edge.
That trick of trimming the tape is a facepalm for me. Seems obvious but I'd never have thought of it. That trick alone was worth watching but the whole video was good. Thanks and subbed.👍
GREAT THING about 8cr13mov is the ease it will take a very keen edge. i find after a full resharpening that i can go a long time with this steel using a cutlery steel to touch it up each day. it comes back to razor sharp easily.
Outstanding video. Thanks from another OF!
Mora Companion knives have a 27 degree bevel and I find the Skandi grind on them to be my favorite.
Love this video. Thanks for posting.
Glad to find your channel. Not into knives but love sharpening. Hope to see more videos.
Hi BamaFan. Funny, that was my path too - I liked sharpening things (although I wasn't very good at it) 'way before I called myself a knife collector. I think chisels was probably my first obsession. I don't imagine there will be any more sharpening videos - I felt guilty even doing that one. But there will be more pictures of sharp things.
If you don't know of it, check the "Edge Snobs" facebook group.
Nice video. I have found that it’s best not to apex with the 50 or 100 grit stones. They are prone to lead to chipping the edge. Recommend getting the bevel set with the 50 or 100, but stopping prior to a burr. Go for a full burr with the 140. Much easier on your steel this way and will reduce the chance of chipping your edge that will remind fragile and chipped.
That's great advice. I've actually experienced that - profiling with the 50 or 100 and then having the edge so torn up that it takes a long time to get it back to straight. I'll try your suggestion next time, thanks for the tip.
@@OldFartLikesKnives You bet! I was told that by a few KME experts and it's great advice. And I don't use the 50 unless it's super hard steels that require it.
nicely done
You should use your microscope to look at a burr directly, a 40x scope would do the job.
My stone system is 1000/6000 grit. I've never reprofiled a knife, though.
I'm going to try free-hand sharpening which I think is a bit quicker than a set-up from SM or KME so I've just bought a angle pyramid to keep the angle at 20 degree and see how I get on.
At last! A 'How to sharpen...' that sunk in first time. If you are not a Teacher of some kind, you should have been. Thank you. I keep coming back to reference some of the points you make.
Wow. I never imaging anyone would even watch it, little less find it useful. Glad you found something helpful in it.
Awesome video, learned quite a few tricks from you old fart...please make another sharpening video, maybe of you just doing a touch up with the Arkansas stones or stropping vs lapping films at the end cheers 🍻
Well made Mr. Fart.
Which Microscope is this? The quality is very nice. Would have been nice to look at "stupid" sharp under the microscope!
I know, I forgot to do the stupid-sharp micro video. Sigh. It is surprising to look at (when I remember) as it's still not mirror-smooth under the microscope - still very noticably grooved; just have to remember that the grooves are much smaller and closer together.
That scope is this: www.celestron.com/products/handheld-digital-microscope-pro
Nothing fancy. Low power, video-only, but perfect for things like edge inspection.
Can I send you my spyderco for you to sharpen?
Definitely not sharper than it needs to be. Great video.
Thanks 👍
Hi, i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
This is correct. You can get it close by making sure you clamp the knife correctly to limit the angle change. But all fixed angle systems will absolutely cause a varying bevel angle along the radius of the blade.
Dude...........................LOL, 99.9% of the time a knife will either be folded in a pocket, or in a sheath so no one is going to see those scratches as absolutely small as they are. I would venture to say they wouldn't effect the functionality of the knife.
Kapton tape works superbly at protecting against Diamonds scratching the top of the bevel..
Fantastic tip - I will certainly give it a try. Thanks.
Incorrect spyderco does not do a lot of knives at 20 degrees per side. Most spyderco knives are done at 17.
I stand corrected, thanks. I don't have many spydies, and the ones I have have all been badly treated. I assumed 20 was their standard because it's one of the two settings on their "sharp maker" system. But, now that you mention it, the other setting is 17. I shouldn't make assumptions.