Bought my first home this year and this is the first project I'm doing - adding a swing gate to our back deck! Thanks for the easy to follow tutorial +liked/sub'd
Best detailed video tutorial. One thing about when you use sawdust to fill the gaps, I find it best (and better) is to mix sawdust with the glue then put it on wherever you need it. I have done it for my deck and it came out stronger than the glue itself as well looks "better/uniformed" even when staining/sealing- it'll take the stain in better. Also stops those knots from seeping out down the road. Keep up with the good tutorial as it's simpler than other methods which requires more or "complicated" tools.
I’m getting ready to make a gate for our patio, I’ll use some of your tips to make it not only look more finished but also easier to build. One tip I will share regarding baluster spacing: get a length of knit elastic banding (available at any fabric store… 25 cents per yard), using a black marker, make a mark every two inches on the unstretched elastic. When you need to space anything equal distances, stretch the elastic between the two outside rails… the “two-inch marks” will become 4.38217” (or whatever spacing you require) all without any math involved.
yes, watched a few of these, this one i like, lots of btw tips from experience, you need to listen to that when whatever your skill sets, this is not one of them. well done, well photographed and well described. end product is what we are looking for. five stars guy.
Very nice, thank you! I especially liked the idea about filling in tiny gaps and holes with wood glue and sawdust. Now all I need is to buy the materials and a right-angle adaptor for the drill.
A trick to get the sandpaper to like new again is to use the bottom of an old tennis shoe against your sander. Walla like new.... your welcome and good work !!!
Great video, very well explained. We have a wide opening on our front porch and will need to make two gates to meet in the middle. Should we still be making the width of each gate panel 3/4" shorter (measure total, divide by 2 and subtract 3/4" from each half?)
3/4" less than the total gave me a 3/8" gap on both sides. If you have a gap on each side like me plus one in the middle, you would have 3 seperate 3/8" gaps. You can go with slightly more or less than that, but 3/8" as a gap worked for me. If you like the 3/8" gap, you would take the total distance of the opening then subtract 3 * (3/8") for the 3 gaps and then divide by 2 for the width of each gate.
Awesome vid. Going to copy your design. Love it. How long would you wait to stain pressure treated pine with semi-solid deck stain to match the rest of my deck?
@@LyonConstruction Sounds good. Also (rookie question here), instead of #9 x 3-1/8" screws, is it fine if I use #10 x 3-1/2" on the frame? I have extras lying around and would like to not have to buy more screws. Can I also use #10 x 3-1/2" on the balusters too?
@Steve K A #10 is a larger thread diameter than a #9, making it slightly stronger which should be fine for the gate, especially if you predrill to avoid potential splitting. I would not use them for the balusters because the screw head is huge, and those are at an angle. I would definitely go with the trim head version for the balusters. It is easier to countersink them and hide them for finish work.
@@slappy1965 Three reasons I can think of at the moment: (1) I like the look better since it makes it similar to a picture frame (2) It provides more surface area for the glue and (3) It shortens the distance to screw through to get from one board to the next although I suppose you could countersink further, use longer screws, have angled pocket screws, etc.
What I would add, is the importance of picking out a good 2 x 4. Maybe you did and I missed it. I built my frame today and it is warped. I had a slightly warped board from Home Depot. I got the two last Cedar boards. I should’ve paid more and went to a proper lumber yard. Not quite sure what to do about my warped frame at the moment.
Mine warped too and was hanging so that the bottom was flush with opposite sides of the post without the hinges. I installed a wood stop at the bottom to stop it where it should stop and had to push hard to close the gate. It hit the wood stop first, and the extra push bent the top until the latch held it. After a few months, the warp was gone. You retrain the grain over time. Hope this helps.
Best tutorial on building a deck gate. You could have moved the hinges preventing the lag bolts from landing close to the seams. Thanks for sharing!
i've watched a few vids on building a deck gate. This is one of the nicest gates I've seen. Good job.
Nice tips and tricks, thank you. Most other diy gates are made in someone’s wood shop with all the fancy tools that I don’t have.
I learned so much from your video! I'm so so glad I watched it before I made my gate! God bless you and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I don’t want to make “just a gate,” I want to make a gate “just a little better.” This video tells me that, thanks!
Thanks for giving such great tips, I will be passing them on to my husband as he builds a gate for our daughters deck.
Bought my first home this year and this is the first project I'm doing - adding a swing gate to our back deck! Thanks for the easy to follow tutorial +liked/sub'd
Best detailed video tutorial. One thing about when you use sawdust to fill the gaps, I find it best (and better) is to mix sawdust with the glue then put it on wherever you need it. I have done it for my deck and it came out stronger than the glue itself as well looks "better/uniformed" even when staining/sealing- it'll take the stain in better. Also stops those knots from seeping out down the road.
Keep up with the good tutorial as it's simpler than other methods which requires more or "complicated" tools.
Great video man. Can’t wait to try building mine soon. Thank you
Best and most detailed video I’ve found. Thank you for sharing. I’m bout to build one for myself thanks to you
Exactly what I needed! Thank's!
Beautiful job and explanation.
Thanks for the video.
I’m getting ready to make a gate for our patio, I’ll use some of your tips to make it not only look more finished but also easier to build. One tip I will share regarding baluster spacing: get a length of knit elastic banding (available at any fabric store… 25 cents per yard), using a black marker, make a mark every two inches on the unstretched elastic. When you need to space anything equal distances, stretch the elastic between the two outside rails… the “two-inch marks” will become 4.38217” (or whatever spacing you require) all without any math involved.
Great, helpful video. Thanks!
Great instructional video! Thanks
Amazing video tutorial; thank you for the extra detail! Very helpful!
You're very welcome!
yes, watched a few of these, this one i like, lots of btw tips from experience, you need to listen to that when whatever your skill sets, this is not one of them. well done, well photographed and well described. end product is what we are looking for. five stars guy.
Very nice, thank you! I especially liked the idea about filling in tiny gaps and holes with wood glue and sawdust. Now all I need is to buy the materials and a right-angle adaptor for the drill.
No problem! I'm glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Great job man!!
Thank you :)
Nice job. I think I am going to steal your design. Thanks.
Great informative video! Thank you!
Outstanding video. Gate look great....off to make one for my deck now.
Glad it helped! Good luck!
Everything that I could have expected very good
Good job!
Very nice!!!
A trick to get the sandpaper to like new again is to use the bottom of an old tennis shoe against your sander. Walla like new.... your welcome and good work !!!
Fantastic video
Thank you
Nice job!
Great video, very well explained. We have a wide opening on our front porch and will need to make two gates to meet in the middle. Should we still be making the width of each gate panel 3/4" shorter (measure total, divide by 2 and subtract 3/4" from each half?)
3/4" less than the total gave me a 3/8" gap on both sides. If you have a gap on each side like me plus one in the middle, you would have 3 seperate 3/8" gaps. You can go with slightly more or less than that, but 3/8" as a gap worked for me. If you like the 3/8" gap, you would take the total distance of the opening then subtract 3 * (3/8") for the 3 gaps and then divide by 2 for the width of each gate.
Muy bonito pero deberías mostrar cómo poner las varillas de madera y esos tornillos en ángulo. Gracias.
A 2x4 cross support brace would prevent any sagging
Did you pre-drill for the screws that hold the main four 2x4s together? Or just drill with the counter-sink bit and let the screws do the rest?
Do you have problems with the glue breaking out of the screw holes over time?
I had that issue with the initial shrinkage but it seems to be fine now.
Awesome vid. Going to copy your design. Love it. How long would you wait to stain pressure treated pine with semi-solid deck stain to match the rest of my deck?
I would wait 6-12 months until it starts acting like a sponge when exposed to moisture.
@@LyonConstruction Sounds good. Also (rookie question here), instead of #9 x 3-1/8" screws, is it fine if I use #10 x 3-1/2" on the frame? I have extras lying around and would like to not have to buy more screws. Can I also use #10 x 3-1/2" on the balusters too?
@Steve K A #10 is a larger thread diameter than a #9, making it slightly stronger which should be fine for the gate, especially if you predrill to avoid potential splitting. I would not use them for the balusters because the screw head is huge, and those are at an angle. I would definitely go with the trim head version for the balusters. It is easier to countersink them and hide them for finish work.
@@LyonConstruction I went with the trim screws per your recommendation. Last question. Why did you miter vs cross cut the frame ends?
@@slappy1965 Three reasons I can think of at the moment: (1) I like the look better since it makes it similar to a picture frame (2) It provides more surface area for the glue and (3) It shortens the distance to screw through to get from one board to the next although I suppose you could countersink further, use longer screws, have angled pocket screws, etc.
How don't the screws hit each other when you screw the mitered joints together ?
They go right past each other if you angle them a little.
what screws did you use on the hinge side?
The should be lag screws.
...my neighbour installed a small wheel on a bottom of their deck gate to prevent any tilt that will inevitably occur over time...
4” spacing on the back of the tape. 🤯
to help prevent swag, attach a swivel roller to the bottom......a thought
What I would add, is the importance of picking out a good 2 x 4. Maybe you did and I missed it. I built my frame today and it is warped. I had a slightly warped board from Home Depot. I got the two last Cedar boards. I should’ve paid more and went to a proper lumber yard. Not quite sure what to do about my warped frame at the moment.
Mine warped too and was hanging so that the bottom was flush with opposite sides of the post without the hinges. I installed a wood stop at the bottom to stop it where it should stop and had to push hard to close the gate. It hit the wood stop first, and the extra push bent the top until the latch held it. After a few months, the warp was gone. You retrain the grain over time. Hope this helps.
Home Improvement stores tend to have picked over PT wood. My local lumber yard has much better wood and cares for it better in the yard
Lol is that a glass table that’s been replaced with plywood? Nice
Yes. I ended up staining/sealing it the same as the deck boards haha.
No cross braces? Good luck! Sagging gate on its way.
Doomed to sag
With the latch holding the weight, there is no torque that would create sag. It is holding up great.
You can always add a turn buckle brace.