A shop changed out my coolant and now I get a thermostat error code. I hope just replacing that stat fixes the error. It’s a shame the thermostat isn’t in a better location. 😂
Great video! I replaced my thermostat and it's leaking somewhere. I will go back and check the thermostat. Can I start the car with the plenum off to see if the Thermostat house is leaking before putting everything back on? Thanks!!
Hi mate, thanks for the tutorial. I really have no luck because after the issue with the fuel filter replacement which I had to do 2 times, i also now have an issue with the thermostat. I just replaced mine mine and I have a leak between the thermostat housing and the engine block. That's really strange because I torqued the bolts at 10Nm like they are supposed to be, I mean I tried to make everything right. It flows down to the floor like continuous drops. I used an aftermarked thermostat, a variant which opens at a little lower temp that the original one. Before installing back the thermostat i've cleaned the surface of the engine because there was dirt like probably remainings of a sealant which is used at the factory (or maybe it was just dried coolant ? don't know). I've made the engine heat up 3 times before putting everything back and i had no leak. Now I will remove everything again and probably will put an OEM thermostat instead. Just i hesitate to use a bit of sealant to prevent it to leak again but i really hesistate. PS : Looking at your video again i see that with the new thermostat inside the housing, the seal "exceeds" a bit from the surface of the housing, then on tightening it must be pressing very well on the engine block. On my side with the aftermarket thermostat, the seal isn't higher than the surface of the housing, then the sealing quality can't be the same. I think i found the reason of the problem, but it's strange as this PN is supposed to be matching the OEM and it's a known brand.
Yeah, go with a genuine or OEM one like used in this video. Also make sure to replace the 4 O-rings in the 2 aluminium pipes that slot into the back underside of the thermostat housing. It sounds like you’ve done everything else right though- clean surfaces, proper torque, no seal and etc.
Great helpful vid! Question- my car is at 94k miles, does it make sense to do the water pump at the same time? (Since you have access with the intake removed). And what else would you do at the same time? Vanos lines/pumps, coolant hoses etc? Thanks!
At 94k miles I wouldn’t worry about the water pump, they are reasonably solid on these cars. With the thermostat it’s worth doing the coolant temp sensor that sits in the V of the engine, they do start to fail over time and can give false thermostat codes
One last question- when purging/bleeding the coolant system after you refill it - when you turn the heat to high and the fan to low (with the engine off) do you have to hold the gas pedal for 10 seconds? I’ve seen that said and a couple other videos. Thanks again. @@MTechGuy
Hi mate , your videos are very helpful,done all that changed the thermostat , blended the air but i have an issue , when i push the car harder temperature goes at 110-115 , before changing the thermostat it never went over 100, any advice on that?
It’s normal for it to creep over 100 C under load. I would double check all the coolant connections for leaks that have been disrupted anyway, maybe give it another bleed to be 100% sure. If all checks out OK I wouldn’t be too concerned
@@MTechGuy thank you for your advice , she had so many bleeds now , everyone i talked to says the same but with the other thermostat it never went over 100 as much as i pushed it ,i am concerned only , all seals have been triple checked , thanks again, i will run a scan today to make sure no error come up
When you say 79C on the start of the video. Does that mean it opens at 80C so if your water temp is stable around 80C it means thermostat is working properly?
Pretty much, yes. It opens at 79C, the temp will fluctuate a little with driving conditions and ambient temp. These thermostats will fail open so worst case scenario it’ll just take ages for the engine to warm up
@@MTechGuy it did warm up in less than 10 mins. I have a big story with our car after we did the 50th M car event in Wellington. I will email you sometime the details, or I might post it on my bimmersport thread. You don’t happen to have an expansion tank lying around the cupboard?
10 mins is normal for warm up with these cars. Interesting! Only have a spare M54 tank’s right now. I was hoping to get to the one in Auckland but had other commitments. Shoot me and email 👍
@@MTechGuy No expansion tank in Auckland or Christchurch. Apparently it’s cheaper for me to order on the dealer who will ship one from Germany, than me buying at FCP (my usual routine). I just have to wait about 6 weeks or so. Ask your local BMW dealer is should be only about $355 inc GST. If they can’t order for you let me know, I can order another one when I get back. I needed to prepay though, as it’s not a returnable item.
@@MTechGuy Yes code read it was confirmed the thermostat .. i will give it a go .. quick question .. do always feel comfortable jacking the rear up from diff ?
If the code was 2B59 the temp sensor in the valley of the engine can contribute to that code too. No worries jacking up on the diff, that’s the proper rear jacking point (just stay clear of the ali rear diff cover!) Not done a wheel speed sensor on this car so far
Hi M Tech guy. I’m looking to do a coolant change on my E60 M5 this weekend. Just checking the coolant capacity, getting slightly conflicting information. Is it 12l or 15l? Obviously I’ll run the engine for 15 mins with the coolant cap off and heater on to ensure the coolant gets fully round the system. But it would be nice to know for sure how much coolant it takes!
10-12 litres of 50/50 mix coolant should be more than enough for a coolant change. No need to run it with the cap off, follow the bleed procedure towards the end of this video. Don’t forget to drain both sides of the radiator
@@MTechGuy hi, I thought it was necessary to run the engine for a while with the heater on (topping up coolant as required) to ensure full circulation of the new coolant through the entire coolant system and heater matrix? I’m going to collect the old coolant anyway and ensure I put exactly the same amount of new coolant in. I can’t see any specific videos covering the bleed procedure though, just this one you’ve done about the thermostat replacement.
@@mista5796 Yes the fill & bleed procedure is as per this video- ignition on, heater on hottest setting, low fan speed. No need to run engines it self bleeds 👍
Happy new year! It’s either your thermostat or coolant temp sensor (most likely the thermostat) Coolant temp sensor is located in the V of the engine on the right hand side
Carlo, 10NM for the thermostat housing bolts. Don’t get too hung up on the torque specs for these small bolts though. Most important pull the housing down evenly & check for leaks afterwards.
Thanks! This is the 2nd video of yours that has helped me do a DIY on my 2007 M6.
Thanks so much Michael, I really appreciate it! Glad you’ve found the videos of value with your M6 👍
A shop changed out my coolant and now I get a thermostat error code. I hope just replacing that stat fixes the error. It’s a shame the thermostat isn’t in a better location. 😂
Great video! I replaced my thermostat and it's leaking somewhere. I will go back and check the thermostat. Can I start the car with the plenum off to see if the Thermostat house is leaking before putting everything back on? Thanks!!
Just completed this job, great video helped me out loads. Thanks M Tech Guy 👍
That’s great to hear, glad you found the video helpful. Good job done! 👍
Thank you for the video clip. I’m about to do my M5 E60 soon
Cool, hope the video provides some helpful info. Thanks for checking out the video!
Used this guide to replace mine. Fantastic help and breezed through it with ease. Great videos!
Nice one man, great to hear! Thanks for checking out my videos
That's one clean engine!
👍
Hi mate, thanks for the tutorial. I really have no luck because after the issue with the fuel filter replacement which I had to do 2 times, i also now have an issue with the thermostat. I just replaced mine mine and I have a leak between the thermostat housing and the engine block. That's really strange because I torqued the bolts at 10Nm like they are supposed to be, I mean I tried to make everything right. It flows down to the floor like continuous drops. I used an aftermarked thermostat, a variant which opens at a little lower temp that the original one. Before installing back the thermostat i've cleaned the surface of the engine because there was dirt like probably remainings of a sealant which is used at the factory (or maybe it was just dried coolant ? don't know). I've made the engine heat up 3 times before putting everything back and i had no leak. Now I will remove everything again and probably will put an OEM thermostat instead. Just i hesitate to use a bit of sealant to prevent it to leak again but i really hesistate.
PS : Looking at your video again i see that with the new thermostat inside the housing, the seal "exceeds" a bit from the surface of the housing, then on tightening it must be pressing very well on the engine block. On my side with the aftermarket thermostat, the seal isn't higher than the surface of the housing, then the sealing quality can't be the same. I think i found the reason of the problem, but it's strange as this PN is supposed to be matching the OEM and it's a known brand.
Yeah, go with a genuine or OEM one like used in this video. Also make sure to replace the 4 O-rings in the 2 aluminium pipes that slot into the back underside of the thermostat housing. It sounds like you’ve done everything else right though- clean surfaces, proper torque, no seal and etc.
@@MTechGuy like we say in french, the dumbs do it 2 times ahah :)
@@MTechGuy Finally replaced it again with an OEM and guess what, no leak anymore. Your videos are really really helpful thanks mate !
@@romleprom Nice one 👍
Do you need to remove both plenums to replace all four radiator hoses?
Can you post the part # for O rings and the crush washers? Great video, very detailed!!
Part numbers in the description 👍 Glad you liked the video, thanks for watching!
Good video sir. How many of the o rings and crush washers are needed for the diy?
4 O-rings (2 on each pipe) and 2 crush washers for the banjo fitting
Nice video and amazing condition M5.... It will last forever that one...
Thanks man, appreciate it. Thanks for watching!
Great helpful vid! Question- my car is at 94k miles, does it make sense to do the water pump at the same time? (Since you have access with the intake removed). And what else would you do at the same time? Vanos lines/pumps, coolant hoses etc? Thanks!
At 94k miles I wouldn’t worry about the water pump, they are reasonably solid on these cars. With the thermostat it’s worth doing the coolant temp sensor that sits in the V of the engine, they do start to fail over time and can give false thermostat codes
Thank you. Makes sense. I watched your vid on removing the intake plenum. Seems like a real PITA. Ty@@MTechGuy
One last question- when purging/bleeding the coolant system after you refill it - when you turn the heat to high and the fan to low (with the engine off) do you have to hold the gas pedal for 10 seconds? I’ve seen that said and a couple other videos. Thanks again. @@MTechGuy
@@TheJaredsalinsky No not with the M5, just follow the steps in the video
Hi mate , your videos are very helpful,done all that changed the thermostat , blended the air but i have an issue , when i push the car harder temperature goes at 110-115 , before changing the thermostat it never went over 100, any advice on that?
It’s normal for it to creep over 100 C under load. I would double check all the coolant connections for leaks that have been disrupted anyway, maybe give it another bleed to be 100% sure. If all checks out OK I wouldn’t be too concerned
@@MTechGuy thank you for your advice , she had so many bleeds now , everyone i talked to says the same but with the other thermostat it never went over 100 as much as i pushed it ,i am concerned only , all seals have been triple checked , thanks again, i will run a scan today to make sure no error come up
Hi, many thanks for this great video. Question on the coolant mix, do you need to use distilled water and if so any particular type? thank you
Distilled water is going to be much better than tap water. You should be able to pick up some distilled water at your local auto parts store
ALWAYS USE DISTILLED WATER! The dissolved solids in water will destroy your internals and cause buildup.
When you say 79C on the start of the video. Does that mean it opens at 80C so if your water temp is stable around 80C it means thermostat is working properly?
Pretty much, yes. It opens at 79C, the temp will fluctuate a little with driving conditions and ambient temp. These thermostats will fail open so worst case scenario it’ll just take ages for the engine to warm up
@@MTechGuy it did warm up in less than 10 mins. I have a big story with our car after we did the 50th M car event in Wellington. I will email you sometime the details, or I might post it on my bimmersport thread. You don’t happen to have an expansion tank lying around the cupboard?
10 mins is normal for warm up with these cars.
Interesting! Only have a spare M54 tank’s right now. I was hoping to get to the one in Auckland but had other commitments. Shoot me and email 👍
@@MTechGuy No expansion tank in Auckland or Christchurch. Apparently it’s cheaper for me to order on the dealer who will ship one from Germany, than me buying at FCP (my usual routine). I just have to wait about 6 weeks or so. Ask your local BMW dealer is should be only about $355 inc GST. If they can’t order for you let me know, I can order another one when I get back. I needed to prepay though, as it’s not a returnable item.
@@MTechGuy btw where did you get your thermostat? Local or also imported from FCP?
Thank you very much my friend))) I also bought this peace of sh*t this year, so I'm f*cking live under hood of these car, so I will need your chanel 😂
Can you show me how to remove 2 hoses that connect to the thermostat housing please thank you
Slide the metal clips up then pull the hoses off the thermostat- as described in the video 👍
Hey M tech guy .. have to do this job , check engine light for it came on ... QUESTION does the light come off by itself after job complete ? Thanks
Have to clear it with a scan tool. It may clear itself if it is the thermostat, with a few kms of driving when replaced
@@MTechGuy Yes code read it was confirmed the thermostat .. i will give it a go .. quick question .. do always feel comfortable jacking the rear up from diff ?
also ever replaced the wheel speed sensors ? if not yet would love that video lol ..
If the code was 2B59 the temp sensor in the valley of the engine can contribute to that code too.
No worries jacking up on the diff, that’s the proper rear jacking point (just stay clear of the ali rear diff cover!)
Not done a wheel speed sensor on this car so far
@@MTechGuy Thanks . .just wrapped up the Job today .. tomorrow for a drive and test .
Great video thanks 👍
No problem, thanks for watching 👍
Hi M Tech guy. I’m looking to do a coolant change on my E60 M5 this weekend. Just checking the coolant capacity, getting slightly conflicting information. Is it 12l or 15l?
Obviously I’ll run the engine for 15 mins with the coolant cap off and heater on to ensure the coolant gets fully round the system. But it would be nice to know for sure how much coolant it takes!
10-12 litres of 50/50 mix coolant should be more than enough for a coolant change. No need to run it with the cap off, follow the bleed procedure towards the end of this video. Don’t forget to drain both sides of the radiator
@@MTechGuy hi, I thought it was necessary to run the engine for a while with the heater on (topping up coolant as required) to ensure full circulation of the new coolant through the entire coolant system and heater matrix?
I’m going to collect the old coolant anyway and ensure I put exactly the same amount of new coolant in.
I can’t see any specific videos covering the bleed procedure though, just this one you’ve done about the thermostat replacement.
@@mista5796 Yes the fill & bleed procedure is as per this video- ignition on, heater on hottest setting, low fan speed. No need to run engines it self bleeds 👍
@@MTechGuy ah I see what you mean now! Just ignition on, fan + heater on and let it circulate the coolant. Thanks 👍
Good info! Thanks!
approximately how long does it take to do this?
Approx 4 hrs
Hi there! I have code P0128 did you know were is the coolant temp Sw location? Thanks and Happy New Year!!!
Happy new year! It’s either your thermostat or coolant temp sensor (most likely the thermostat) Coolant temp sensor is located in the V of the engine on the right hand side
@@MTechGuy Thank you!
Do i have to flush the coolant to change the thermostat
No, if your coolant isn’t that old, you can drain it into a clean container and re-use it
What is the torque on the mounting bolt of the thermostat?
Carlo, 10NM for the thermostat housing bolts. Don’t get too hung up on the torque specs for these small bolts though. Most important pull the housing down evenly & check for leaks afterwards.
I will never understand why they put such an oddly low thermostat in these cars. I just swapped out for an 88C unit.
Was it Motorad 880090?
@@HB_M5 yup
@@heyhayhay247 Is it taking now longer to warm up?
I’m asking because I’m about to swap mine soon. What oil are you using? 5W50?
@@HB_M5 nope, warms up the same as before with 5W50 and the new thermostat
@@heyhayhay247 last question: no need to refresh/update the engine ECU?
use some better lighting mate
Thanks for the advice Dan Segalovitch
Does the plenum need to be removed to install the 4 radiator coolant hoses?
Yes, to get access to the two lower hoses & make the upper two easier.